X-LS Encore & X-CS Encore Build

mlundy57 · « **on:** 19 Jun 2013, 12:54 am »

The build is now underway. At this point in time I am building a 3 piece system, X-LS Encores for L&R Fronts and an X-CS Encore for the center. Later on I will build a pair of X-MTM Encores for the front channels and move the LS's to the rear for a five speaker system. After that I will most likely add a 12" servo sub to round out the 5.1 system.

I decided to build the X-LS Encore and X-CS Encore cabinets out of 3/4" Baltic Birch. They will be stained then shellacked. I haven't decided on color or actual finish coat yet.

I am doing a fairly complete upgrade. In addition to NoRez, Sonicaps and Mills Resisters I am adding Sonicap bypass caps and Erse XQ inductors. I will also be point to point wiring the crossovers foregoing the circuit board altogether. Additionally I am replacing the straight port tube with the flared port tube used in the N1X kit. Per Danny's recommendations I am also extending the tube length a little for a more balanced bottom end.

I started out making templates out of poster board and laying them out to match the grain and best use the wood. I was able to get all pieces out of one 5' X 5' sheet of Baltic Birch. Lessn learned: after going to all the trouble to match the grain on adjacent pieces, mark said pieces with all pertinent information including which piece goes with each other

Then I cut out the pieces for all three speakers

I cut the tops and bottoms a little wider to make lining things up easier then flush trimmed the overhang. Here is the jig I set up to provide more stability for the router

and here's after flush trimming but before any sanding. The painter's tape was to keep the bearing from marking the plywood.

Here are the X-LS Encore cabinets with the bracing installed.

Now for a question. When installing NoRez on the sides, how close to the front baffle should it come?

Mike

Captainhemo · « **Reply #1 on:** 19 Jun 2013, 01:13 am »

Hey Mike, Nice job, looks great

hehe, I think I've almost seen that question more than any other
Enogh clearance is needed so the no res doesn't interfere with the woofers... i went about 1/25" if I remeber right. . I think there has been a few different #'s anwhere from about 1" and up

-jay

Danny Richie · « **Reply #2 on:** 19 Jun 2013, 01:14 am »

Quote

Now for a question. When installing NoRez on the sides, how close to the front baffle should it come?

You can come right up to the front baffle, but stay back about 1" or so from the front baffle around the woofer. You don't want to block the woofer in with the foam.

Ron · « **Reply #3 on:** 19 Jun 2013, 03:11 am »

I usually keep the No-Rez back 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" from behind the front baffle which works very well.

Ron · « **Reply #4 on:** 19 Jun 2013, 11:08 am »

Mike,

In addition to lining the cabinet interior walls with No-Rez, I suggest using 1 to 1-1/2 ounces of Acousti-Stuf teased out and placed in the back of the X-LS Encore cabinets from top to bottom. The X-CS Encore will require about 2-1/2 to 3 ounces. You can use an ounce scales which are available from drug stores or stores like Walmart, to weigh out the damping material. I have found that Acousti-Stuf does a better job of providing deeper, tighter bass and cleaner midrange performance than Dacron Poly-Fil. . It is available from Parts Express ( Item # 260-317) in 1 lb bags.

I have been using Acousti-Stuf in all my recent speaker building projects and have been very pleased with the results.

Ron

mlundy57 · « **Reply #5 on:** 19 Jun 2013, 02:58 pm »

Ron,

Thanks. I have already bought the Acusta-Stuff per your earlier suggestion so I will be ready when I get to that stage. I have a fairly good digital kitchen scale that measures that I can use.

Mike

mlundy57 · « **Reply #6 on:** 20 Jun 2013, 01:28 am »

I've installed most of the NoRez. I brought the top part around the tweeter out to the front baffle and left the lower portion around the woofer 1-1/4" back from the front baffle. I have to cut out the part covering the port openings and the tube connector openings.

I have not put any NoRez on the bottom yet. I have to determine the size of the crossover board first. The width of the crossover board can be no more than 4-3/4" due to the NoRez lining the sides. The length has some leeway. There is a total of 9-1/2" between the NoRez on the rear wall and the front baffle. How much of the bottom of the box can the crossover board occupy? Or another way of looking at it would be how many inches behind the front baffle needs to have NoRez before getting to the crossover board?

Mike

Ron · « **Reply #7 on:** 20 Jun 2013, 03:45 am »

Mike,

I suggest that you make your crossover board 4-3/4" Wide x 6-1/2"long. The crossovers for N2X speakers that I have previously built have the same inside depth as the X-LS Encores and this crossover board sized worked out just fine. The crossover board should be back against the No-Rez on the rear of the cabinet. You can put a piece of No-Rez in front of the crossover set back 1-1/2" from the back of the front baffle. Also, I suggest that you construct your crossover boards from 1/4" thick MDF or hard temper Masonite. Hope this helps you.

Ron

mlundy57 · « **Reply #8 on:** 20 Jun 2013, 04:07 am »

Ron,

Thanks. I have been experimenting with cardboard as a layout substitute board. I had gotten it onto a 4-3/4" x 7" platform but by scooting the resistors all the way to the edge it would fit on a 6-1/2" board. I'm not sure if I have this layout right or properly distributed.

I have seen three different recommendations for board thickness: 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2". The 1/4" hardboard available around here is pretty flimsy stuff. It's fine as a workbench top with solid plywood underneath but not really sure it would be sturdy enough by itself. The thinnest MDF I have found stocked is 1/2". I might be able to get 3/8" MDF by doing a combination of special order and direct pickup at the local distributor. They don't sell directly to the public so I have to go through one of the retailers they supply.

Mike

Captainhemo · « **Reply #9 on:** 20 Jun 2013, 04:14 am »

Another option Mike.... cover the entire bottom panel in thick vinyl floor tile. You can then fasten the cross over right through the tiel into the MDF and still put apiece of no rez in the front if you wish. I personally wouldn't even worry about the little piece of no rez, if you make the c/o board 6.5" and add the 1.25" back from the front baffle, it only ends up being a piece of no rez 1.75" wide. In mine I just used the thick vinyl floor tile on the bottom

-jay

mlundy57 · « **Reply #10 on:** 20 Jun 2013, 04:21 am »

Thanks Jay.

After looking at the crossover layout a little more it looks like I could rotate the largest cap 90 degrees counterclockwise. This would have all the caps aligned in the same plane and allow me to move it more toward the edge of the board. This would then allow me to move the smaller inductor more towards the center of the larger inductor.

corndog71 · « **Reply #11 on:** 20 Jun 2013, 05:07 am »

Here's how I did mine.

mlundy57 · « **Reply #12 on:** 20 Jun 2013, 05:12 am »

That is compact!

Ron · « **Reply #13 on:** 20 Jun 2013, 11:40 am »

The following pictures show a pair of crossovers I built for a pair of N2X speakers:

The X-LS Encore crossover uses fewer component parts can be laid out in a similar arrangement as the N2X. The board size is 4-3/4" W x 6-1/2" long. I have found that a scrap piece of laminated wood flooring like Pergo works very well as a crossover board. I agree with Jay that the small piece of No-Rez in front of the crossover really isn't necessary.

Ron

mlundy57 · « **Reply #14 on:** 21 Jun 2013, 03:21 am »

How long should the wires be from the board to the Electra tube connectors?

Mike

Danny Richie · « **Reply #15 on:** 21 Jun 2013, 04:17 am »

Quote from: mlundy57 on 21 Jun 2013, 03:21 am

How long should the wires be from the board to the Electra tube connectors?

Mike

No longer than they need to be.

Captainhemo · « **Reply #16 on:** 21 Jun 2013, 04:51 am »

Quote from: mlundy57 on 21 Jun 2013, 03:21 am

How long should the wires be from the board to the Electra tube connectors?

Mike

Just make sure you leave them long enough so that when the cross overs are monted the wires will stick out the holes a couple (2 or 3") inches so you have enough room to work comfortably and attach the tube connector.
Not sure if you noticed, but Danny has a handy sticky on installing the tube connectors if you haven't done it before, might be worth a look .

-jay

mlundy57 · « **Reply #17 on:** 21 Jun 2013, 06:36 am »

Yes I saw it. I have been reading both the crossover 101 and the tube connector stickies multiple times. I figured 5" should get me from the back of the board, through the NoRez & the back wall and have 3" to work with.

The crossovers are mounted to the boards and I have twisted all the connections up. Tomorrow I will solder everything and apply the shrink wrap. Then it's back to the cabinets.

Mike

mlundy57 · « **Reply #18 on:** 21 Jun 2013, 08:50 pm »

The crossovers are completed. Is there any way to test them before installing into the cabinets?

I also have the front baffles ready to attach including a 1/2" roundover on the back of the woofer cutouts.

You will notice the mounting holes in the front baffle. I cut the recess too shallow so the tweeters sat proud of the baffle face.

I had a heck of a time sanding them down enough so the tweeters sat flush. Later I was reading an X-LS build thread in the GR section over at HTS and found a tip to quickly and accurately set the recess depth first time every time with no measuring. The trick is to use the flange to be recessed as a spacer. Start by setting the router so the bit is flush with the bottom of the router base. Then raise the depth stop rod out of the way. Now place the flange to be recessed on the depth plate of the router and bring the stop rod down on top of the flange. Tighten the stop rod and you have the depth set perfectly to recess that particular flange. A picture shows this much better so check out post #59 in this build thread:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/gr-research/61533-giant-killer-build-6.html

Mike

Captainhemo · « **Reply #19 on:** 21 Jun 2013, 10:50 pm »

Hey Mike, looking good

You could test the cross over by conecting the woofer leads temprotily to a woofer, the tweeter leads to a tweeter then the inputs to a pair of speaker wires coming from source (amp.rec), Just twist the conections or use alligator clips but be careful not to short anything (obvious I now , but thought I'd say it anyway). I lay the cross over on an upside down mouse pad or something with a ruber back.

-jay