[NeilT]

Hello, I want to build bookshelf sized speakers for my brother. I demoed the N2X, which led me to build a set of OB7's for myself.

My options:
1) A/V-1
2) X-LS-encore
3) Maybe the N1X/N2X
How do these compare with each other?

Money is not too much of an object.

He is going to be using vintage McIntosh Tube equipment to drive them, 40 WPC.

Thanks for any feedback.

Neil

[Captainhemo]

Hey Neil

My vote is for the N1X/N2X   ... gotta go with the Neo 3 
As you  know,  it's so natureal and smooth  yet  gives a ton of detail   without being fatiguing at all .
I have  listened to the Peerless tweeter in  the Encores quite a bit and although it is very good,   I wold choose the Neo  if given the choice.  I find the Peerless tweeter   a bit bright... you  just notice it more  where as the  Neo just blends in so perfectly while still providing  all the detail

Sorry if I sound like a  brokjen record regarding the Neo,  I  just  really   love it 
Just my  $.02

-jay

[mlundy57]

Neil,

I think I'd have to agree with Jay. I now have a pair of both X-LS Encore's and N1X's. Both of them have identical quality level crossovers (Erse XQ inductors, Sonicaps, Mills resistors, and Sonicap Gen II by-pass caps). While I haven't done a side by side comparison yet (I'm still burning the N1X's in) my gut feel from listening to the N1X's in my office during this stage is that they will have the edge on the X-LS Encores.  Won't be able to tell for sure until I put them side by side next week sometime.

Mike

[gijogeo]

I have a pair of N2X and I can vouch for them being an amazing set of speakers. As Jay and Mike mentioned the Neo 3's are excellent tweeters.

 If he can squeeze in an N3 or N3S I think that would be the best option. I will soon be buying an N3 kit with full upgrades for floorstanders to keep up with my LS-C.

Gijo

[NeilT]

Good advise and well taken, thanks guys.
I am also waiting for Danny's new designs 

Can anybody chime in on the difference between the A/V-1 and  XL-S-encore.
Danny maybe?

Neil

[mlundy57]

Neil,

Just to clarify, while I don't know what the stock X-LS Encores sound like, the upgraded version is no slouch. These are very good speakers that most folks would be happy to have. That probably doesn't help with making a decision though 

Mike

[mlundy57]

Neil,

Now that I have had a chance to break in the N1X's and do a side by side comparison with the X-LS Encores my original suspicions have been confirmed. The upgraded X-LS Encore is a very fine sounding speaker. However, compared to the Neo3 PDR in the N1X the Peerless T26SG tweeter in the Encore is a little brighter, edgier, more forward and not as quite as detailed. The Neo3 PDR is smoother, better balanced, cleaner and clearer.

For example, in the J.S Bach Violin Concerto No.2 in E. BWV1042:1. Allegro the cellos and/or violas behind the violin can be easily heard with both tweeters but they are clearer, cleaner and more distinct with the Neo3 PDR.

In Jethro Tull's "Crosseyed Mary" The Neo3 PDR reveals a whole lot more going on around the flute than can be heard with the Peerless T26SG.

If cost isn't an issue I'd opt for the N1X. If a couple a hundred additional bucks is an issue go with the Encore. Either way your brother wins.

Mike

[NeilT]

Thank you Mike, for the review.
I am curious about the bass response, any thoughts?

Neil

[mlundy57]

Neil,

I used the same port in my X-LS Encore that is used in the N1X. So the port I used with the Encore is longer than originally designed witch results in a little bit more base extension the the Encore was originally designed for. Because of this I expected the X-LS Encore with the larger woofer to have better bass response than the N1X. However I don't really hear it.

As designed, both the X-LS Encore and the N1X have a 3dB down point of 55Hz. Listening to them both I can't really hear a difference. If anything I think the N1X's base response is a little tighter bit it's a close call.

Given all of that, they are still bookshelf speakers and really need a subwoofer to cover the lower frequencies. When crossed over to a sub at 80 Hz any marginal difference in bass response becomes a moot point.

Mike

[NeilT]

Hi Mike and thanks for the feedback, leaning towards the X-LS, half the cost even with cap and resistor upgrades.
He will be using 1964 McIntosh tube, Pre and Amp, thinking that will smooth things out and not be too revealing.
Plus I am very interested and curious to hear what the X-LS sounds like.
Looking forward to another build, it has been awhile since I made the OB7's.

Thanks again for all the feedback

Neil

[mlundy57]

Neil,

Good point about the tube amps. I was comparing them using a solid state NAD C372.  I had a similar experience with my Klipsch RB-81's. When driven by the NAD they were overly bright but when driven by the Marantz they toned down and smoothed out.

Mike

[NeilT]

Could not pass up the amazing deal on this kit, and decided on the X-LS Encore for my brother.
Cheated on the cabinet build, PE does a great job for $200.00.


Best place for X-over is behind woofers, had to carve out a recess for binding post hardware





Had to cut down binding post.







A little silicone to hold port in place


3/4 inch round over.




No-Rezzed


Trimmed a little off X-over boards to make the fit















OB7's make great speaker stands


Had to remove some material, to fit grills over woofers





I will post impressions later.

Neil

[TrungT]

Neil
Looking great. 
Noticed the trusty HP calculator.

[NeilT]

Neil
Looking great. 
Noticed the trusty HP calculator.

I wondering if anybody would notice that, HP15C.
I have been using it for about 30 years.

[Captainhemo]

Nice job Neil 

Those PE cabinets  make for a nice alternative for  folks not wanting to build from scratch

-jay

[mlundy57]

Neil,

Looks nice. Rather expensive speaker stands though ... 

Mike

[Danny Richie]

I can't argue with any of that feedback posted so far. All is pretty spot on.

A few hints though for you guys using the PE boxes. See this thread: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=54352.msg485002#msg485002

If you failed to remove the center brace then you might want to rap some insulation around it to minimize the reflective area.

Also note that the holes in the driver terminals are not for poking the wiring through. This makes a minimum contact area with the wire and makes un-soldering (if needed) a nightmare.

Tin the wire with solder. Tin the terminal. Solder the two together making as much surface area contact as possible. Then heat shrink. 

[Oscillate]

"Then heat shrink."

What is the proper method to 'shrink' the black plastic insulator onto the bare wire connections?


Regarding the Parts-Express enclosures: "The brace down the middle of the box puts
quite a bit of reflective surface area right behind the woofer. This really must be removed."

This applies to a ported X-ls build only, right? ...not the sealed verion?

[Danny Richie]

"Then heat shrink."

What is the proper method to 'shrink' the black plastic insulator onto the bare wire connections?

I use a heat gun.

Regarding the Parts-Express enclosures: "The brace down the middle of the box puts
quite a bit of reflective surface area right behind the woofer. This really must be removed."

This applies to a ported X-ls build only, right? ...not the sealed verion?

Sealed or not it still puts a reflective surface behind the woofer. The shorter wavelengths the woofer plays (in the upper harmonics) can propagate in the cabinet and reflect off of the internals.

[NeilT]

Hey Guys, thanks for the compliments  .

Neil