I have owned VMPS speakers for over 12 years. The first pair I had that had putty and pots (Tower IIs) I "never" adjusted until 2 years ago!!!!
Did they sound absoulutley horrible? nope, did the tuning make them better? yep.
I find that occasionally this question crops up and some fastidious 'philes, make statements like a "small changes" make an "incredible" or "unbeleivable" improvement, they went from lousy to heavenly.
That just doesn't happen
The tuning capability of the VMPS floor standing speakers is to allow for adjustment to the bass "damping" system and to adjust levels of the neopanels and tweeters.
Since many describe these "enormous" changes in sound quality with the slightest adjustment, the newcomers feel like they are searching for this "illusive" sonic grail and are lost in the sea of "inexperience" to never find the path.
I have to assure you that a huge majority of what are sometimes described as "huge" differences are "very subtle" but noticable changes that when heard, finally say "this is right" or at least it is "closer to right".
Big B's speaker systems by their very nature can be some of the most revealing and resolving transducers you can listen to. Because of this ability to hear "into" the recording to a greater degree, we have the opportunity to find "areas" of the sound that we might want to improve.
Now what causes these areas? Well it could be any number of things.
Source material engineering
Source hardware
Preamplification
Amplification
Cables and interconnects
Room Acoustics
Polluted Electrical Power
and more....
That "more" could be the speaker. Now after cleaning up the rest of the sonic production chain, most speakers leave you with little adjustablity other than "postitioning".
VMPS on the other hand, has provided the tools to extract that last little bit of sonic tailoring to allow you to go even further.
Even after exorcising the main "Sound Demons" we may still find that we have personal preferences, and even hearing ability, that might call for additional contouring.
If I might suggest that tuning the VMPS speakers is not some incredibly difficult task unless you approach it with the idea that you will transform the speaker into having the perfect sound on every cut you play
It is not going to happen. On the other hand "do" be careful not to make large adjustments after the initial gross settings.
The large adjustment to the putty and pots should come upon unpacking the speakers.
First step is to remove a marble sized bit of putty from the Passive Radiator. This normalizes a woofer system that comes "overly damped" from the factory. Since Brian doesn't want you to have to run to the hardware store to pick up a small bit of putty, he adds a little extra to start.
This is all you need do to the putty, until the system has had time to "break in", which may take 30-60 (or even 90) days depending on how much and how loud you listen.
After this period you may add or subtract smaller amounts of putty to "fine tune" the system. This is done by listening to good bass rich cuts and listening for ringing, overhang, flabbiness, and wooliness. All of these might inidcate that you need to slightly adjust the putty (macro adjustements of a "fingernail full")
How much are these adjustments? A fingernail full if rolled into a ball might be about the size of half of a BB.
Make sure these are cuts that you are familiar with, and know well, since bass varies wildly on different software.
Regarding the Pots, there is no "ideal" setting except for the one that sounds best to you.
The pots allow you to "balance" the relationship between the midrange/high frequencies, and the bass..... And the relationship between the midrange and the high frequencies.
The idea here is to first get the placement of the speaker and it's fundemental damping close to right (tight, defined, deep and clear bass) and then balance the mids and highs to match the "foundation".
Most will start with the "gross" pot adjustments to around 12:00 - 1:00. This may vary based on electronics and rooms with warm soft tubes running as high as 2:00 -2:30 and bright SS maybe even less than 12:00.
After the break in, this may change. with slight macro-adjustments (15 minutes or so) like 11:45 or 12:15.
Then when you really become familiar with the system as a whole, you may at anytime take a small screw driver, place it in the slot and turn it one or two windings. This adjustment can only be felt, and not seen, it is that small.
These are the "micro-adjustments" and again should only be performed when listening to program material that you are familiar with.
Now keep in mind that if you are a person with "very" sensitive hearing and are an experienced listener to the point of being able to discern significant fine detail then these "micro-adjustments" can be the final "coupe de grace" (or is that grais?)
And also there is no reason to "tweak and tune" every time you listen, unless you are that kind of person.
There will be days when your system will sound better than others for many different reasons.
I mean there are many reasons your system can sound a little different.
From things like "lousy, dirty power" to unequalized "inner ear" pressure there are many reasons that your special cut might not sound the same everytime you play it.
As you become familiar with your speakers, your room, your system and your power, you will be able to maximize most listening sessions.
And as you develop this familiartity, the adjustments you make will be subtle and meaningful, but don't blow the whole process out of proportion.
Sit back, open your ears and listen to the perfromance. Listen for the details that are there and realize the power to adjust that you have at your finger tips, but don't go overboard and don't over adjust and set yourself up for frustration.
Just focus on a solid, clear and lifelike balance and sonic tapestry, woven with a great performance of your favorite artist.
When you get it close, you will hear subtle nuance and cystal clear 3-D sounds that approach, the limits of your system.