[jmimac351]

No, the other option is not viable, if you know what I mean.  

I know a guy. 

[jonsk2514]

               



Tis a thought, but

 

Someone ( ) would not be happy…

Just in case, I’ll save the reference for future use should it become necessary.   

[jmimac351]

That rotozip tool... do you like it?  Any particular one?  I'm going to play with the LGK drivers and need to cut some small 3.58″ holes.  The good news is I have zero woodworking experience... but I do have a lathe / milling machine for making metal chips.  I will either machine adapters out of aluminiumium, or make them from MDF.  That rotozip tool will cut a nice, small hole in 1/2" MDF - and is the best way to do it?

Thanks for any advice.

[jonsk2514]

That rotozip tool... do you like it?  Any particular one?  I'm going to play with the LGK drivers and need to cut some small 3.58″ holes.  The good news is I have zero woodworking experience... but I do have a lathe / milling machine for making metal chips.  I will either machine adapters out of aluminiumium, or make them from MDF.  That rotozip tool will cut a nice, small hole in 1/2" MDF - and is the best way to do it?

Thanks for any advice.

I too have a bit of metal working experience, and started these speaker builds with only basic wood working knowledge and learned what I needed along the way.  I found lot of good threads in this blog and several really good videos that learned from.

As for the rotozip tool, are you referring to this picture/discussion?



That rotozip tool is really good for doing what it was made for.  That is, cutting rough holes in drywall.  It was used here only to cut a a hole in the No Rez (a foam backed linoleum-like material) that was applied to the inside of the cabinet after the hole in the MDF was made.  This would not make a good tool for cutting holes in MDF.  It would be hand held and the hole would rough, not square to the face and not overly round, if your handiwork is anything like mine.

For woodworking hole cutting I would recommend a router with a plunge base and circle cutting template.

This is the 20v cordless Dewalt router with their plunge base.  The nice thing is the ability to put a dust collection system on it.  MDF dust is toxic, the the dust collection is important.  Dewalt does make a corded version of this router and I am sure there are other brands that would work well for this.



This is the cutter I use.  I see no point in cutting more than necessary; the 1/8” cutter works well for this.



I have gotten a ton of use from this circle cutting template.  This just attaches to the router base and makes perfect circles.



This is pretty much the whole setup.



You could do aluminum, but I think that for purity of sound, you would want to stay away from any metals that could introduce any kind of ringing or the like.

Not sure exactly where you are going with this, but all of Danny’s cabinets are 3/4” thick.  That might be a better option than the 1/2” to get the most stiffness.  Again, depending on what you are doing.

Hope that helps.

I also see in your signature that you are a chief instructor for Chin … HPDEs, something that I also dabble in (tracks here in the NE) with a couple of MINI Coopers I have.  Maybe our paths will cross if I ever get up the nerve to deal with the “pass anywhere” allowance Chin has for the advanced drivers.  I fear that might not go well going up through the esses at WGI…

[jmimac351]

I also see in your signature that you are a chief instructor for Chin … HPDEs, something that I also dabble in (tracks here in the NE) with a couple of MINI Coopers I have.  Maybe our paths will cross if I ever get up the nerve to deal with the “pass anywhere” allowance Chin has for the advanced drivers.  I fear that might not go well going up through the esses at WGI…

Thanks for sharing!  Buddies and I got a plunge base router and Milescraft circle cutting tool, but I haven't check how small a diameter it will cut.  Curious about how others tackle this stuff.  Thanks again for sharing this info.

I thought about the aluminum ringing.  I'll need to ask Danny what he thinks about that, given where the LGK would cross over.  Just not sure of the best way to tackle it... but that's part of the fun.

Track:  all passes require a point by... uphill at Watkins Glen can be a little sketchy.  There is expectation that people can flow thru; however, people are human.  Some will ignore taking a point thru there just to "make sure" as well... Sort of like, sometimes it's just not necessary to make a pass on a 2 lane highway when the passing zone is just ahead.  What's to be gained vs the risk?  Sometimes it's a matter of knowing who's in the car in front of you as well, especially in spots that take commitment.  I try to get to Watkins Glen at least once per year.  In fact, there's a Mini Cooper driver that often runs with us there in our Advanced Group.  If you're aware and can use a mirror, everything works fine.  I'm heading to Sebring on Friday for a big event.  See you at the track! 

[jonsk2514]

I think you’ll make out fine with the LGKs.  A router gets used a lot and having a plunge base is a bonus.  Feel free to ask questions here.  I have not done the LGKs, but if it is general in nature, maybe I could help.

WGI - Yes, people will be people.  But, also, cars will be cars.  For a MINI the esses are a full commitment, foot to the floor and both hands on the steering wheel area with high risk and a lot of unknowns.   Having hit antifreeze just before the apex of T3, you can understand my reluctance to do point bys there.  Oh, I likely know that MINI driver - Gbuff is his screen name on NAM (MINI blog).  He is crazy good.  Yes, maybe see you at the track and enjoy Sebring. 

[jmimac351]

[jonsk2514]

Way to shiny for the track…

 

Although I would guess that looks like a track in the background.
Very nice… 

[jonsk2514]

Man, those are some pretty premium rear surrounds! 

And super detailed build threads like this one are extremely helpful for the community here.  Thank you!

Sorry for taking so long to make this update about how the system sounds with these X-SLS speakers.  When I finished these speakers, I didn’t really have a chance to test them out as part of the home theater system until recently.  See, the system I currently have predates HDMI.  WHAT? You say… Yup.  Optical input only.  And other parts of my system are only HDMI.  Resolving that issue took me a little bit of time (plus other “life gets in the way of fun” things got in the way).  In the end I found a nice HDMI to optical converter on Amazon that did the job.  Everything is rolling now.  The X-MTMs (covering front left and right and base), the X-CS center channel and these two X-SLS speakers covering the rear left and right.

The “Man, those are some pretty premium rear surrounds” is a pretty accurate description of what I now have.  Maybe a better way to put is…

AWESOME!

The same as the X-MTMs, these have that omnidirectional (hope that is the right word) sound where the sound smoothly travels from one location to another, without sounding like it is going speaker to speaker.  It is as if the speakers disappear and there is just the sound.  It is hard to describe, but at times I have looked over my shoulder to see what is coming at me from behind, it is that real.

This is also the first I have had voices playing through the X-CS center channel and that is working out nicely.  So, again, high praise to Danny’s designs.

The only notable thing is, I have the volume to these rear speakers boosted a little compared to the X-MTMs in the front.  Maybe X-MTMs are a bit more efficient? Or my room’s acoustics are that bad.  Or both.  I don’t see this as a particular issue, just a note.

There is still the question as to whether there will be a subwoofer in this system’s future.  That remains to be decided.  My watching and listening companion has a lot to say about that and she is unimpressed with me “shaking” the room.  She is happy with the way it is with the X-MTMs doing base duties.  But one never knows…