[Rclark]

 So I've been using Radio shack wire, bare ended. A lot of people say the connection is critical, and that bare wire does bad things over time..

 That and it is a MAJOR pain to switch speakers.

 I'm about to stroll over and pick up some more wire, and also get some spades or banana clips, probably spades this time.

 What do I need for this job? I have a soldering iron, solder, shrink tube and a heat gun. That it?

[Mark Korda]

Hi Rclark,I have used Radio Shack wire for speaker wire and still do.I use 18 guage solid core,twisted like Mapleshade does(Helix).Forget the banana jacks,I have screw terminals on my amp(Dyna-35)and the connection there could not be even tighter or better.With 5 way jacks on the back of my speakers the connection couldn't be any easier.2 spools,red and black to make polarity easier to identify and twist away.I didn't invent this,I read it in Stereophile about 10 years ago,I still have the issue or issues where it attained class B or C statis in the annual best of the year issue.Discontinued now because Stereophile does not make any advertising money on its recommendation.It's more fun to make them than to shell out megabucks for them.....I'll dig out the issue for more on it......take care....Mark Korda

[Rclark]

Oh that's cool! Hey the wire (gold colored) comes glued together. Are you saying I should peel it apart and twist it?

[Rclark]

ok, whiskey and coke in hand, ready to do this. No more bare wire turning brown.

[Mark Korda]

Hi Rclark,I saw in your picture the Radio Shack spool of wire you intended to split apart.I have one  of those spools too.But I was referring to Radio Shack 18 guage solid core,not stranded like you have shown.It's called (hook up) wire.It comes in spools of red,black,or green.You don't have to cut any wire down the middle.The fun is in the twisting.I made two ten foot lengths.You can twist the black over the red for so long,then you have to twist the red over black for a while because one length of wire will get shorter and the other longer even though you cut them the same length.It's like when 1 shoelace gets longer than the other.So,I'd go black over red for 5 turns or so then switch and go red over black 5 times.If you follow that rule the wire will come out exactly the same length on both ends.You will see what I'm getting at once you start.You could use electrical tape and tape together both ends and then put in a workshop vise or have someone hold the other end when you start twisting Chubby  Checker!I found the short brief  on the wire idea from Stereophile,I'll still find the article as I never throw an issue away....here goes...October 2004(Radio Shack 18 gauge solid core hook up wire:3.99-60 foot spool-Ridiculously cheap way of connecting speakers,yet Stereophile reports that this cable is sonically okay.You have to choose for yourself wether to space or twist a pair for best sound,or even to double up the runs for less series  impedence).R, I think the reason for twisting is to make less of an antenna effect.I'll find that whole article I promiss you.One more thing,the little paragraph I just read was between Pure Silver Connection 1250.00, 3 meter pair and Siltech Classic LS 188,4000.00 for 2meter pair.Let me know if you try it,we'll both get a laugh,and I bet the cost of your project if you do that you will love the end product and how good they work and sound....take care...Mark Korda.

[Rclark]

Hey Mark  . Thanks yeah, it was really easy to make them and the total cost for two 15 foot wires with gold plated spades (all they had, wasn't a preference) like.. $25 

How do they sound? No different than my expensive coathanger stiff cryogenically treated wire  . Doesn't matter which speaker I try. You already know my philosophy on wires and cables. Radio Shack all the way.

I guess I can put pics up when I get home.

[cheap-Jack]

Hi.

Forget the banana jacks,I have screw terminals on my amp(Dyna-35)and the connection there could not be even tighter or better

With the loudspeakers OUT of manufacturers' warranty, one can whatever one wants to upgrade it.

After redesigning & rebuilt the complete micky-mouse type lousy stock X-over network board, I soldered the speaker cables (2 pairs bi-wiring, one pair for the tweeter, & one pair for the woofer - it's a 2-way system) from the tube power amp (mine is ST-70) to the individual drirvers.

 Speaker terminals behind the loudspeaker cabinet DO affect sound. So I got rid of them. Direct soldering is the best contact ever made.

Of cousre, I would never use those cheapie building wires from the hareware stores. Mine are AWG #12 oxygen-free pure copper thru out.

c-J



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