[Captainhemo]

Yes 

LOL, you're funny.  Ok then if you're going to make me ask....   care to share   or  is it going to be a surpriese  ? 

-jay

[ebag4]

LOL, you're funny.  Ok then if you're going to make me ask....   care to share   or  is it going to be a surpriese  ? 

-jay

Sorry Jay, just messin' with ya!
I'm going to do something like this:

I am going to hold off on the finishes for now, I am still trying to make up my mind which way to go.

I will be using the servos in my V1s until I decide how I want to proceed, I think I will end up building the subs out separately in pairs (similar to your excellent build) and build the top of the V1s into a separate unit that I can hook up if I really want to rock out.

Best,
Ed

[mlundy57]

Love the "actin  shots"  Ben,  very  cool

Have any of you guys  who are getting some of the first batch considered/decided on how you'll be finishing  your  Wedgies ?

Looking forward to following a builod thread or two

-jay

I'll be veneering mine

Mike

[Captainhemo]

Sorry Jay, just messin' with ya!
I'm going to do something like this:

I am going to hold off on the finishes for now, I am still trying to make up my mind which way to go.

I will be using the servos in my V1s until I decide how I want to proceed, I think I will end up building the subs out separately in pairs (similar to your excellent build) and build the top of the V1s into a separate unit that I can hook up if I really want to rock out.

Best,
Ed

No worries , I knew you were   "messin"   

That looks pretty cool, after seeing  it, I now  seem to remember reading  earlier  in the thread   about you doing this... is it just an extended wing reaching down to a large, heavy base ?  Can't remember if Danny told us how heavy   1 finished wedgie  came in at ?
 
Using the  servo subs in your V1's is a great  idea until you decide on something more permanent,  nice to have that option.  If I remember right, I think Guy's V1's have  the top and bottom sections seperate. 

Will be fun watching you and Mike build these out

-jay

[ebag4]

Received my kit from Danny last week and the flat pack from Ben today, thanks guys.  All items arrived in tact.  Ben, that packing worked well and all arrived without damage.  The flat pack looks great, the tolerances are incredibly tight on the LGK cutouts.  Danny, did you use the gaskets, I don't know that the driver and gasket will fit, seemed too tight?  I haven't had a chance to dry fit anything else.

The size of this setup as compared to the pics is deceiving, at least it was for me.  I like it.

[Danny Richie]

Received my kit from Danny last week and the flat pack from Ben today, thanks guys.  All items arrived in tact.  Ben, that packing worked well and all arrived without damage.  The flat pack looks great, the tolerances are incredibly tight on the LGK cutouts.  Danny, did you use the gaskets, I don't know that the driver and gasket will fit, seemed too tight?  I haven't had a chance to dry fit anything else.

The size of this setup is deceiving, at least it was for me.  I like it.

I use the gaskets.

[mlundy57]

My flatpacks came in today also. The kits arrived last week as well. I asked Ben about the orientation of the short wings and top brace. The rounded over edges face the inside of the speaker.

It doesn't look like I'm going to be able to veneer the insides of the short wings and the top brace. I don't know how to roll a single piece of veneer over edges in two dimensions. Plus, once the wings are glued on there is not much flat area on the back of the baffle for veneer. I'm thinking I might stain the back of the baffle, inside of the short wings and top brace black.

Another option would be to cut the three small pieces out of solid wood that matches the veneer I choose. Providing that having these pieces made out of solid wood would not adversely affect the speakers performance.

Is the bottom stout enough to add threaded inserts for spikes or can I add a second piece of material and/or a wider base to the bottom to hold the spikes?

Mike

[Early B.]

I'm really looking forward to the MANDATORY build pics and initial reviews. 

[ebag4]

Temping my baffles up, the kit fits together perfectly, great work Ben. 

I have a question for Danny, did you use spacers between the baffle board and the NEO3 where the screws attach it to the baffle?

Thanks,
Ed

[Danny Richie]

Temping my baffles up, the kit fits together perfectly, great work Ben. 

I have a question for Danny, did you use spacers between the baffle board and the NEO3 where the screws attach it to the baffle?

Thanks,
Ed

I mounted the tweeter flat against the baffle.

[mlundy57]

Here's where I'm at with my wedges. After dry fitting to get a feel for how everything went together, I identified the parts that I could not veneer and decided to dye them black then use a French Polish finish. These include the wave guide, the rear of the front baffle, and the inside facing portions of the short wings and the cross brace.



I'm using and an alcohol based India ink as the dye



Here is the front of the baffle. The driver insets are just being dyed black, not polished. The wave guide is about half way done.



The entire rear baffle, including the roundovers is being polished. Again about half done,



Here is the inside of the short wings and the cross braces



I haven't decided if I'm going to leave the black parts glossy or rub them down to a satin finish.

I decided to use some Mozambique veneer I bought awhile back. So far, all the veneer I have used has been paper backed. This is the first time I have used raw wood so I have some new skills to learn.

First is laying it out and setting up



Then cutting the pieces to length. I'm cutting 5 pieces at a time.



Here are all the pieces cut and ready for the next step. The two stacks in the center are for the outsides, the two stacks on the ends are for the inside of the large wings and top of the bases, and the stack at the bottom is for the bottom of the bases and top of the cross braces.



Once I finish with the black parts I have to bookmatch and apply the veneer.

Mike

[AKLegal]

So the dye doesn't leave a blotchy uneven finish on unsealed MDF?

[mlundy57]

This particular dye works really well, even application with no blotches, and since it has some shellack mixed in, once it dries it doesn't smear like some other dyes I've tried.  Which makes sense considering it is intended to be used as ink for writing or drawing.

Also, I've tinted the shellack I use for the French polishing black by adding black TransTint. This deepens the color.

Mike

[Folsom]

Ok good, we're back off the no picture thing again.

I've used General Finishes Dye Stain before. It can turn wood any color without hiding grain. It's flat though. That worked for me. I used clear spray over it, then sanded in a sort of weathered look to match the rest of the piece (old, beat up here and there).

India ink hmm...  How does wood handle grain raise with alcohol? I wetted my wood down and then sanded so it didn't pop too much.

[mlundy57]

Alcohol doesn't raise the grain. That's one thing I like about using it.

Mike

[baniels]

Awesome. Glad to hear that, Ed.

Mike, looking good. Keep the pics coming.

Temping my baffles up, the kit fits together perfectly, great work Ben.

[mlundy57]

When these are glued up, are they supposed to be the same or mirror images (a left and a right)?

Mike

[Danny Richie]

When these are glued up, are they supposed to be the same or mirror images (a left and a right)?

Mike

Mirrored images man.

[mlundy57]

Danny,

Thought so, thanks.

Mike

[dnewcomer]

wings to the inside or outside ?