[WireNut]

Thanks guys. As I get further into it, I realize "Hey, I can do this!". It's not brain surgery, but it sure enough requires knowledge and skills. I guess you just gotta jump in and learn how to swim!

Yeap that's right. It's easy once you set your mind to it and say I can do this. Good planning, tooling and determination equal great results. It's a great felling being able to say "I made these myself". You may never recover from the many benefits of DIY.       

WireNut
   

[Captainhemo]

the only downside is the "sickness"  you will soon have.  That feeling WireNut spoke of is addicting   LOL 

-jay

[WireNut]

The first one,  the plunge depth adjust met lock screw stripped as i is    a steel screw which  threads into aluminum.  i was  cutting some  counter sinks one day and it slipped so I   tightened a bit more  and that was  it.
Sears is good,  they exchanged it without any hassle  but  I can tell that   this is going to be something I will have to watch  for again.  Just keep it in mind  when you're out shopping
-jay

Same with my Bosch. It's a good router but the depth stop on the plunge base is kinda wimpy. It worked ok, but I don't really trust it that much. I keep a close eye on it. I'm concerned about it slipping or the thread in the alum base stripping out.
Dewalt looks like they make a better depth stop and adjustment dial.

[bdp24]

I'm thinking mostly in terms of being able to route through-holes in 1.5-2.0" thick baffles with a 0.5" deep driver recess, and also rabbets and dados. Sounds like a job for 1/2" shanks, eh?

[WireNut]

I'm thinking mostly in terms of being able to route through-holes in 1.5-2.0" thick baffles with a 0.5" deep driver recess, and also rabbets and dados. Sounds like a job for 1/2" shanks, eh?

 Definitely.

[cody69]

I'm thinking mostly in terms of being able to route through-holes in 1.5-2.0" thick baffles with a 0.5" deep driver recess, and also rabbets and dados. Sounds like a job for 1/2" shanks, eh?

A router with 1/2" collet gives more flexibility for certain jobs, and is necessary for larger bits that have a lot of rotating mass. You can make a larger cut with 1/2" bit and avoid chattering. You can cut circles fine with a 1/4" bit, you just need to take smaller cuts and make more rotations.

I keep a router permanently setup on a circle jig I built in the shop. I'm using a 1/4" solid carbide uncut spiral bit that works nicely. If you use a spiral bit, be sure the collet is tight so the bit doesn't pull out and damage your piece.

If you're cutting in MDF, set up some type of dust collection or do it outside in a breeze -- you'll kick up clouds of fine dust.

[mlundy57]

If you are going to use Electra tube connectors and plan on veneering the cabinets do you drill the 7/16" holes at the same time you are cutting the driver and port openings or do you wait until after the cabinets are put together and veneered?

[mlundy57]

When the plans call for a 3/8" radius on the back side of the woofer hole what type of bit do you use, a 3/8" roundover. a 3/8" bullnose, orwhat?

[WireNut]

When the plans call for a 3/8" radius on the back side of the woofer hole what type of bit do you use, a 3/8" roundover. a 3/8" bullnose, orwhat?

 Round Over bit.
 


 

[mlundy57]

West system’s epoxy is awesome stuff for bonding and gap filling in any wood working project IE: loudspeakers. Your saw cut joints don’t quite meet up, no problem, use the epoxy/filler mixture and they’re solid as a rock. Available in three different sizes and price points. Rockler carries at least one size. I always keep this stuff on hand, It's an excellent product. 

No affiliation.

Do you use this in place of glue or do you glue up the cabinets first and if there are gaps mix some of this up to fill them?

[WireNut]

Hi mlundy57,

I use epoxy only for everything, no glue. I use a mixture of the epoxy/resin first applying to all edges/sides. Then, If I need to fill gaps or uneven spots I'll follow up with a second mixture of epoxy/resin with an added filler. If I'm bonding two boards together to make one thick piece of wood I use the epoxy/resin without any filler. The fillers are added to thicken the epoxy/resin as needed for gap filling and also add extra strength. The epoxy/resin alone has a consistency of syrup. By adding a filler you can change the consistency from syrup to puddy and in between. You can also create fillets with the thickened mixture much like you would see after using a caulking gun. Use poly cups to mix so you can reuse them, and anything to spread the mixture with. The stuff creates a rock solid enclosure. If you took a hammer and tried to break one of the epoxy joints you'd  split the wood first. It's that strong.

 Usually I'll use the 406 filler which is very fine. If I know I need a thick mixture (puddy/peanut butter) I'll use the 404 filler. Add a little at a time until you get what you want. I use the fast hardener in colder months and the slow hardener in warmer months usually.

  You only need to lightly clamp or add weights to hold parts in place until mixture hardens. You won't need screws for anything unless using them to hold things from moving until the epoxy hardens.

 The cans are calibrated by size. One squirt of the resin to one squirt of the hardener. It's easy to use.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/

adding a filler

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/adding-fillers/




         

[bdp24]

Thanks for all the great info. Is MDF dust usable as "filler", to thicken the mixture?

[WireNut]

Thanks for all the great info. Is MDF dust usable as "filler", to thicken the mixture?

Fillers are bonding strengthening fibers of different densities and material types. Filler is just a generic name. MDF dust is nothing like any type of filler I've used by West Systems epoxy.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/product-technical-data/



 

 

   

 

[bdp24]

Oh, okay. I worked for a furniture maker briefly, and he mixed fine sawdust with wood glue to fill in gaps where two pieces met. The use of the term filler is much more specific in the epoxy products, more general in my use of the term.

[mlundy57]

Well, I've begun. Here is a pic of the A/V-1 cabinets so far. All parts are cut out and most of the routing is done for the cutouts. Just have to cut the 3/8" radii on the back of the woofer holes and drill the holes for the Electra tube connectors. 

The red clamps are corner clamps designed to keep things square. This is the first time I have used them and the jury is still out. I might try a different style on the N-1X cabinets and see which ones I like best. The first box is close but it is 1/16" out of square. Part of that is due to a need to dial in the table saw. I intentionally cut some of the panel dimensions 1/8" oversize so I can smooth things up later with a flush trim bit.

[mlundy57]

Here is my progress on the N-1X cabinets. The parts are all cut out and about half of the routing is done.

[jeffh]

mlundy57,

Great work so far....

[driguy]

Well, I've begun. Here is a pic of the A/V-1 cabinets so far. All parts are cut out and most of the routing is done for the cutouts. Just have to cut the 3/8" radii on the back of the woofer holes and drill the holes for the Electra tube connectors. 

The red clamps are corner clamps designed to keep things square. This is the first time I have used them and the jury is still out. I might try a different style on the N-1X cabinets and see which ones I like best. The first box is close but it is 1/16" out of square. Part of that is due to a need to dial in the table saw. I intentionally cut some of the panel dimensions 1/8" oversize so I can smooth things up later with a flush trim bit.

A couple of pointers:
1. Always ensure the table saw cuts are square. A quick check with a square will save a lot of grief later. I mean a LOT.
2 In the photo one can see that it is out of square on the left side. Again, checking for square here will save much grief later. The joint will be much stronger as well. Instead of trying to glue it up the way you have it, use the last piece (the unused 4th side),(unglued) on top which will make clamping easier by far. Trying to get that kind of clamp to remain square in that format is difficult at best. You will be able to clamp it together and use a mallet or hammer to square it up after you have it clamped.
3. I did not read the whole thread but if you are not using polyurethane glue or some other slow setting adhesive you are again making it very difficult on yourself. Be sure to moisten the gluing surfaces when using the poly especially with the porous MDF. This will give you much more time to work everything into square.
4. To make the joints stronger (especially with a butt joint) use a bisquit jointer or after the carcass is glued up drill holes and insert dowels. This makes a much stronger joint especially if there is any compromise in the initial glue up.

[mlundy57]

I've got the square glue up issue solved. The last part of the two boxes (sides, top, and bottom) for the N1X's is drying. I was able to get the cross-square measurements to within 1/64". They may be closer than that, I just cannot eyeball the tape measure any closer than 1/64".

Tomorrow I will finish routing out the port holes, glue up the backs and install the braces for the N1X's. I am going to have to re-cut the top, bottom and side pieces for the A/V-1's.

A few more questions:

(1) Should I drill out the holes for the Electra tube connectors now or wait until after the cabinets have been veneered?

(2) Do you add the no-rez before gluing the front baffle on or wait until after the cabinet has been finished?

(3) I have read 3 different methods for sealing the MDF before finishing epoxy, watered down glue (75 glue: 25 water), and water putty. What are your thoughts and does it make a difference if the cabinets are to be veneered or painted?

Thanks