AudioCircle
Industry Circles => Salk Signature Sound => Topic started by: ctviggen on 6 Mar 2017, 05:35 pm
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My HT3s have the incredibly bright speaker diaphragms/cones. I bought them used. That is, they look like the left side of the topmost picture here:
http://www.salksound.com/model.php?model=Veracity+HT3
Is there any way to add (retrofit) a cover to cover the drivers, as is shown on the right side of the same picture?
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You could drill into the front baffle and glue in some small magnets, and then use standard Salk front grilles which attach magnetically. Maybe also glue in thin wood plugs over the magnets to hide them. Give Jim a call for additional info on his grills.
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My HT3s have the incredibly bright speaker diaphragms/cones. I bought them used. That is, they look like the left side of the topmost picture here:
http://www.salksound.com/model.php?model=Veracity+HT3
Is there any way to add (retrofit) a cover to cover the drivers, as is shown on the right side of the same picture?
Early models of our speakers did not utilize grills. It was only after many customers requested them that we made the decision to set all speakers up with magnets and grills.
Do your speakers have magnets embedded in the upper corners? If not, then they were not set up for grills.
Probably the best approach in that case is to use velcro tabs on grills to attach to the fronts of the speakers. I would not drill into the front baffles to mount magnets. If you ever took the grills off, it would probably look quite ugly. Velcro tabs are available in many shapes and sizes and would look at lot less obtrusive with the grills off.
- Jim
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Thanks, Jim. Can I contact you about getting grills? Do you think there's a "glue" I could use to put the velcro on but such that I could remove the glue later?
I need to see if my wife will allow me to bring these up from the basement into the living room. Then I'll pursue the grill issue.
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You might be able to use Blu-Tack or something similar used to hold posters up rather than glue.
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You might be able to use Blu-Tack or something similar used to hold posters up rather than glue.
I'll look into that, Tom.
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Thanks, Jim. Can I contact you about getting grills?
Sure.
- Jim
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I've used some small suction cups for another application with good results. Jim could do a test run and maybe a few altercations to the inside cover might work.
Good luck.
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Do you think there's a "glue" I could use to put the velcro on but such that I could remove the glue later?
I would think there would be Velcro available with tape on one side. Something like two sided tape but tape on one side and Velcro on the other.
https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Sticky-Back-Black/dp/B00006IC2L
Bill
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I have some "industrial strength" velcro with very strong adhesive that I use to hold a power strip to the side of my audio equipment cabinet. I've replaced that velcro and the power strip a couple of times over the years and had no trouble removing the velcro and any lingering adhesive without damaging the real wood equipment cabinet or its finish. Since a grille assembly is not at all heavy and would not have any stress on it, normal velcro should be effective and easily removed if desired in the future.
Paul
I would think there would be Velcro available with tape on one side. Something like two sided tape but tape on one side and Velcro on the other.
https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Sticky-Back-Black/dp/B00006IC2L
Bill
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How about either magnetic grills that attach to the driver rims or Velcro on the driver rims to the grills? This way you are not buggering the wood finish. It does require some engineering of the grill though.
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In all of my speaker builds for the last 5 years or more, I've located magnets recessed into the back of the grille board that line up with some of the driver mounting screw/bolt heads. I usually use 9-mm baltic birch plywood for the grille frame with the magnets epoxied into recesses 1/8" to 3/16". Since I assume you would remove the grille assemblies for serious listening, you can cut it to overlap enough of the drivers' flanges in order to provide areas in which to install the magnets. I use round neodymium magnets having a 5/16" diameter and 1/4" depth and drill a countersunk hole with a 21/64" diameter. I drop a bit of epoxy into the holes and push the magnet down, which squeezes up the epoxy around the magnet's perimeter. I'm attaching a photo of one pair of grilles used on a 2-way having an 8" woofer and 1" dome tweeter. For that grille I used four magnets to line up with 4 of the woofer's mounting screw heads. On some other builds I located 2 magnets for 2 screw heads on the woofer and another magnet or two to line up with screw heads on the tweeter.
Paul
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=158816)
How about either magnetic grills that attach to the driver rims or Velcro on the driver rims to the grills? This way you are not buggering the wood finish. It does require some engineering of the grill though.
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Nice detail, Paul.
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Thanks. Using magnets like this requires only magnets on the back of the grille board instead of magnets also embedded in the baffle (with correct "polarities" on both sets of magnets).
Paul
Nice detail, Paul.
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I threw him a softball... :wink:
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Here's a pair of grille assemblies for a 2-way where a pair of magnets are located for a pair of the woofer's mounting screws and another pair of magnets located for a pair of the tweeter's mounting screws.
Paul
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=158915)