My new speakers (Upgraded X-Statik build)

electronicsfanatic · « **on:** 5 Jan 2020, 04:30 am »

Today was the start of my new X-Statik build. I haven’t done any carpentry in a year or or so. I do not have my own woodworking shop so I went to a friends to use some tools. I have my grandfathers at hand which has better tools but, I went with a buddy’s garage instead. I’ve had many speakers but, wanted tovgive these a go. My little 19 month old son takes most of my time but, I’m working on these as I can. I think so far not bad for a rusty 1/2 HP Sears Craftsman table saw and a Delta chopsaw which I had to make two cuts just to get through the 7” cuts. I included some pictures of my laminate from Oakwoodveneer.com which I have to get to lay flat. The veneer has been rolled up for a couple years (cherry). I’m learning do the best I can with materials and tools that I normally would not use. Any thoughts on good looking stains for this veneer and finish. Spray on polyurethane? Thanks and I love this thread/website!

mlundy57 · « **Reply #1 on:** 5 Jan 2020, 04:54 am »

Cut the veneer into rough sizes for each piece, a couple inches or so oversized in all directions. Get some veneer softener and spray it on both sides. Make sure you have something underneath as a base (I use cardboard) on a hard flat surface. Put a couple layers of white paper towels over base. Lay pieces that have had the veneer softener applied on the paper towels in a single layer. Put more paper on top of the veneer. lay something flat and heavy on top like a piece of MDF or melamine. If you have more pieces of veneer, put more paper towels on top of the flat piece, put another layer of veneer on the paper towels, more paper towels on top of the veneer, another flat surface on the paper towels, repeat as necessary to get all the veneer pieces in the press. Finally, put something heavy on top of the last flat piece of the press. Cover the entire flat piece with weight. Do this 24-48 hours before applying the veneer.

Cherry really doesn't need stain to look good. It darkens naturally with age. Arm-R-Seal is a good choice of finish that's easy to apply. It can be wiped on. I thin it 25% or so. It goes on easier that way. Here is a pic of figured maple with gloss Arm-R-Seal.

Mike

electronicsfanatic · « **Reply #2 on:** 5 Jan 2020, 07:34 am »

Thanks Mr. Lundy I will definitely do the process you recommended. I pulled the boxes off the veneer. It definitely took some of the coiling out. Gonna get some softener and get that going and will be gluing together the main cabinets tomorrow. Then body work and sand. I have to order the veneer contact cement and roller too. I’m sure I can get the softener there too.

Keithh · « **Reply #3 on:** 5 Jan 2020, 02:26 pm »

That looks like a paper backed veneer and if so do not spray veneer softener on it.
You can spray some softener on a cloth and gently apply to the veneer side but
do not apply it to the paper side.

It is best just to tape or weight it down and hope that helps but if not just have someone
hold the other end while you are applying the veneer.

mlundy57 · « **Reply #4 on:** 5 Jan 2020, 02:56 pm »

I spray veneer softener on both sides of paperbacked veneer all the time, especially on pieces I’m going to be bending over an edge with a roundover. Don’t soak it. Just spray enough so it’s covered. Also, I don’t put as much on paperbacked veneer as I do raw wood veneer.

If the sides of the cabinet are flat (no roundovers) and your veneer is pretty flat you may not need the veneer softener.

Then again, i don’t use contact cement. I use Heat Lock glue and an iron. You put glue on both the cabinet and veneer and let it dry, similar to contact cement. The difference is once the Heat Lock glue dries, it won’t stick to itself until heat is applied. That allows you to reposition the piece when you put it on and prevents a mess if part of the veneer touches the cabinet before you are ready for it to.

Peter J · « **Reply #5 on:** 5 Jan 2020, 03:51 pm »

I have to agree with Mike. Contact glue will certainly cause you some PIA. It has it's place in the woodworking world, but you'll find its limitations and frustrations far outweigh any benefit in a project like you're embarking on.

And if you do decide to anyway, at least use the good stuff. 3M 30NF runs about $100 a gallon last I checked, but is head and shoulders above solvent based crap from Big Box. Weldwood and the like.

Captainhemo · « **Reply #6 on:** 5 Jan 2020, 04:27 pm »

We avoid the contact cement as well, not overly fun to deal with to say the least.
Been using the yellow PVA / hear/iron press method.. basically same as Mike described but using yellow pva instead of heat lock.
So much easier to do when the glue id dry on both the substrate and the veneer, no "intant stick" and easy to position, then re-activate the glue with a moderately hot iron and stick it down.

Have a look here:
https://www.oakwoodveneer.com/ironon.html

jay

AlexH · « **Reply #7 on:** 5 Jan 2020, 08:07 pm »

i am going to agree with everyone else here about contact cement. I have used it and things came out well. But contact cement will allow the veneer to creep and move with humidity and temperature. One day it is flush the next day you will be able to feel the edge of the veneer hanging over just the slightest bit. I use the heat lock glue it gives you a hard edge and it is easy to use. Good luck and enjoy the process.

electronicsfanatic · « **Reply #8 on:** 6 Jan 2020, 05:19 am »

Sorry guys I meant to say Heat Lock instead of contact cement. I was going by what Peter Rawlings’s used which was heat lock. I posted todays pictures of progress. Still a long way to go but, not bad for about eight hours and rusty tools!

electronicsfanatic · « **Reply #9 on:** 6 Jan 2020, 05:21 am »

Some panels aren’t glued in the photo and look off but, I promise I’m within a 1/16 of and inch,

electronicsfanatic · « **Reply #10 on:** 10 Jan 2020, 05:47 am »

A general question here? Alex may you chime in too? After gluing my double front baffles should I cut the 5.75” driver holes like you did and then rout the 3/4” round over on the back prior to lamination? Then flush cut the front side with the upcutting veneer bit and then recut the 3/4” round over on the back after lamination. Maybe this will avoid chipping the veneer or do it in one pass? Also, should I sand the veneer after lamination to have proper finishing with 300 grit sandpaper? Thanks1

AlexH · « **Reply #11 on:** 10 Jan 2020, 09:54 pm »

I cut my holes first then veneer. On the backside with the 3/4 round over I did the same. Just don't try to do the 3/4 round over in one pass. If you are worried about it tear out just make several passes. The heat lock glue is good stuff when set.

mlundy57 · « **Reply #12 on:** 10 Jan 2020, 10:33 pm »

3/4" is a big roundover on the backside. The plans call for 3/8".

I usually cut the holes and do the roundover before gluing the baffles on. I have glued the baffles then cut the holes and did the round over after. If you do it this way, you need a round under bit.

Captainhemo · « **Reply #13 on:** 10 Jan 2020, 11:06 pm »

He may be using a thicker baffle, it's an X-Statik build. Nothing wrong with the large roundovers... except, inside the caibnbet I think they'll actually cut under the side panels. On the upper section, all good

jay

AlexH · « **Reply #14 on:** 11 Jan 2020, 12:22 am »

I assumed he had a :thumb:1 1/2 thick baffle, but then again I did not ask. Everyone has their way of doing things the way they like, and no of them are wrong as long as it works out in the end.

electronicsfanatic · « **Reply #15 on:** 12 Jan 2020, 03:22 am »

I just got done with the crossover upgrades minus the 1ohm mill resistors that got accidentally left out and the final soldering of the speaker wires to the board. I can’t do that until the front is done and I’m making the bottom crossover section removable. Not sure if ya’ll know of Tesla tape but, I’m doing all my wiring with it. I love it and there’s no cabinet or wire resonance here. Making my own custom wires with Electra tube connectors too. Anyone know how to get images uploaded better. I would be posting a lot more pictures. I have an iPhone and iPad?

electronicsfanatic · « **Reply #16 on:** 22 Jan 2020, 05:49 am »

As I work on these X-Statiks today I finally got to here my first set of OB speakers. Probably well out of my league! If I had the money and heard the NX-Oticas with double/triple OB servo subs iI would think they would give them a run for the money. They are the Magic LX 521s with two Emotiva 5 channels pushing them. They had a Rotel Preamp and it made for a good day in itself. Designed by Mr. Linkowitz himself.

electronicsfanatic · « **Reply #17 on:** 22 Jan 2020, 05:56 am »

I’m making progress. Cabinets, removable bottoms, crossover mods, and test fits dine. Just to laminate, wire, and finish.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #18 on:** 22 Jan 2020, 02:45 pm »

Your X-Statik's and a dual open baffle servo sub, laid on its side between the two speakers, will eat them up. And you'll only need two amp channels to do it.

The NX-Otica's are in a different league.

electronicsfanatic · « **Reply #19 on:** 28 Jan 2020, 06:10 am »

I made a huge mistake and heat locked the veneer prior to magnets for the grills. Do I start over on the baffles or is it safe to double veneer? I have limited time and was gonna use magnets for the grills to make later. I jumped the gun figuring I could make use of the given four hours of free time. Which is rare.