[galyons]

I know that this is a can of worms. I have been burning in my C2 with a generic IEC power cord. Today I listened with my "less generic" cord that came on my Anthem Pre1.  There was a noticeable improvement in bass definition, imaging and soundstage. 

Are you using a "hi-end" PC, DIY, generic or what?  I have built PC's in the past and currently use one on my CD D/A converter. Very nice improvement over the stock cord.   I tried it on my Rogue PreAmp.  To be perfectly honest, it did not make a big difference. Enough to leave it in, but not dramatic. The Rogue has an outboard power supply with an umbilical to the main unit.

What is everyone else using?

Cheers,
Geary

[tubesforever]

Geary,

You are going to be amazed over the next couple of months....The C2 will simply continue to slow simmer until you realize that Jim Hagerman is a genius!

Whatever it is with brand new parts and pieces they just seem to hit perfection after about 3-4 months time.

BTW I am a big believer in using 10 gauge OFC, twisted and shielded.  Use hospital grade connectors at both ends and enjoy the ride.  In fact make sure you use the same 10 gauge wire inside the C2 between the IEC and the board and grounding.  Home Depot used to sell 10 gauge OFC power cords, orange in color for about 55-65 dollars for a 25 ft length.  Some of my friends even used this for speaker wire.

Beldin makes a 10 gauge wire as well for power supply.  They just don't twist it and shield it and that makes a difference.   

I would just try to find some high quality OFC wire in 10 gauge and spin up some cords.  It will make a difference and you can build a cable for say 50-75 dollars that will compete with the 350-500 dollar boutique pieces.

My C2 sounds better on spiked feet than with rubber feet.  That is another tweak to try down the road.

Cheers!

[jameshuls]

I use the VH audio DIY Flavor 2 for all my equipment.

http://www.venhaus1.com/diymains.html

I terminated mine with Oyaide plugs. I haven't compared them to anything but a Zu Mother power cable (retail of $600 I think) but the VH cable provides a more dynamic, rich sound when used in my Melody 2A3 amp. I have yet to try it on the C2, as it seems to still be doing some break-in after 2 1/2 months, and I don't want to confuse my perceptions. I foolishly put Dueland resistors in the high pass filter of my speakers about a week after I finished the Cornet, and I still don't know whether it had a positive effect or not, as the first month of C2 break-in was PAINFUL.

While we are on the topic, I have compared the VH Audio fine silver interconnects (which I have throughout my system, terminated with Eichmann RCAs)) to a few other cables (Tara Labs, Harmonic Technology, others I can't remember in the range of $500-1000) and they are a steal at the $150 or so it costs to make one. Check out the amount of positive feedback these cables get! I hope this helps.

http://www.venhaus1.com/webreviews.html

http://www.venhaus1.com/diysilverinterconnects.html

[WGH]

I'm using the original Volex as mentioned in The Lab.

Wayne

[Occam]

Sadly, the current version of the Volex 17604/5 is no longer the Mexico sourced, nekk'd brass bladed version, but is now made in the PRC and has nickel plated blades and IMO does not sound nearly as good.
An excellent alternative is available from Ram Electronics -
http://www.ramelectronics.net/power/power-cables/shielded-power-cable-spspc/prodSPSPC.html
Belden 19364 cordage, P&S 5266 plug and Schurter IEC, essentially a Bob Crump 'Asylum Cord'. Similarly, MAC and SignalCable, and the previously mentioned ven Haus d.i.y. make good low cost power cords. These cords are an excellent way to determine for oneself whether cords can make a difference, prior to going off the deep end with bespoke cords.

[galyons]

Geary,

You are going to be amazed over the next couple of months....The C2 will simply continue to slow simmer until you realize that Jim Hagerman is a genius!

The C2 may not be there yet, but I am!

BTW I am a big believer in using 10 gauge OFC, twisted and shielded.  Use hospital grade connectors at both ends and enjoy the ride.  In fact make sure you use the same 10 gauge wire inside the C2 between the IEC and the board and grounding.  Home Depot used to sell 10 gauge OFC power cords, orange in color for about 55-65 dollars for a 25 ft length.  Some of my friends even used this for speaker wire.

Beldin makes a 10 gauge wire as well for power supply.  They just don't twist it and shield it and that makes a difference.   

I would just try to find some high quality OFC wire in 10 gauge and spin up some cords.  It will make a difference and you can build a cable for say 50-75 dollars that will compete with the 350-500 dollar boutique pieces.

Wow, 10 gauge!! The 2 I built for the pre and source are 13 gauge. I used mil spec 16 gauge silver plated multi strand teflon coated wire. I use a somewhat helical winding with cotton cordage, tinned copper shield. 2 runs per leg are 13 gauge and 3 are about 11.5.  4 runs per leg would give me 10 gauge. Guess I'll give 4 a try. I use Pass & Seymour Extra Hard Use males and Shurter or Wattgate IEC females.

My C2 sounds better on spiked feet than with rubber feet.  That is another tweak to try down the road.

That is what I used. No wonder mine sounds so good!!!
Cheers!
[/quote]