[gguy]

Hi all,

I am getting ready to cut up some no rez for my Triple OB-Sub and NX-Otica build.  My only tools at disposal are a box cutter, or jig saw.  Any recommendations for getting a clean cut?  For the Triple OB's, are you able to cut all of the pieces to the same size, or did it require custom fitting each one?

Thanks

[cementhead]

I had very good luck with a jig saw with a fine toothed blade.

[pwag]

For cuts that don't have to be super precise, I am using an oscillating tool (Harbor Freight $20 or, preferred, more expensive models) with a semiround blade. Cuts through the damping layer easily and then I use a knife to slice through the cell foam.  For precision cuts, a table saw is the method of choice.

[Jaytor]

One dimension is the same on all pieces (what turns out to be the depth when installed), but unless you are going to miter the edges the length of the pieces will be different from the horizontal pieces and the vertical ones. I'd recommend cutting a couple of pieces and test fitting them before cutting all of them.

You won't be able to fit the pieces on the front side of the driver quite all the way back against the baffle without causing some interference with the drivers.

A small table saw really made cutting this stuff very easy. The edges were really nice and clean. I imaging you could do it with a jig saw, but it would be harder to get smooth, straight edges and would take considerably longer. If you can borrow a small table saw or rent one from a local equipment rental store, it will be a LOT easier.

I did not take my advice to cut a couple of pieces and test fit, and I ended up needing to trim a lot of pieces slightly smaller to get them to fit. Even so, with the table saw, it only took a couple hours to cut all the pieces (many twice) for two triple subs and clean up the mess with a shop vac afterward.

Cutting this stuff creates a lot of little pieces of foam, so wear goggles and dust mask, and expect quite a mess to clean up.

[gguy]

One dimension is the same on all pieces (what turns out to be the depth when installed), but unless you are going to miter the edges the length of the pieces will be different from the horizontal pieces and the vertical ones. I'd recommend cutting a couple of pieces and test fitting them before cutting all of them.

You won't be able to fit the pieces on the front side of the driver quite all the way back against the baffle without causing some interference with the drivers.

A small table saw really made cutting this stuff very easy. The edges were really nice and clean. I imaging you could do it with a jig saw, but it would be harder to get smooth, straight edges and would take considerably longer. If you can borrow a small table saw or rent one from a local equipment rental store, it will be a LOT easier.

I did not take my advice to cut a couple of pieces and test fit, and I ended up needing to trim a lot of pieces slightly smaller to get them to fit. Even so, with the table saw, it only took a couple hours to cut all the pieces (many twice) for two triple subs and clean up the mess with a shop vac afterward.

Cutting this stuff creates a lot of little pieces of foam, so wear goggles and dust mask, and expect quite a mess to clean up.

Thanks for the advice.  How wide did you cut the front baffle inserts, did you go until the foam touched the front of the sub?

[Captainhemo]

You  want the foam to be  1"  to  1.25"  back from the   driver on both sides  (front/rear).   I don't  go quite that  far as I  miter cut the inside edge  now as well to  give   driver  clearence.

If you  are  going to    do butt joints,  the horizontal pieces will be  13"  ( or just a hair less  for   paint  etc).    The  verticle pieces    will be   11", you can do them just a touch  longer so they push up asinst the horizontal pieces  nicely.

I doubt    youi're doing   mitered corners  with out a table saw,  can't  see that  being  fun.

jay

[gguy]

You  want the foam to be  1"  to  1.25"  back from the   driver on both sides  (front/rear).   I don't  go quite that  far as I  miter cut the inside edge  now as well to  give   driver  clearence.

If you  are  going to    do butt joints,  the horizontal pieces will be  13"  ( or just a hair less  for   paint  etc).    The  verticle pieces    will be   11", you can do them just a touch  longer so they push up asinst the horizontal pieces  nicely.

I doubt    youi're doing   mitered corners  with out a table saw,  can't  see that  being  fun.

jay

While do have a miter saw, which at a piece width of 4-5/8" (1" from back wall) will fit, I am just not confident in my ability to accurately pull it off.  I figured the butt joints would be the easiest.

[Captainhemo]

Yup, and they  work  just fine too.  If you take your time, you can actually make the butt joints look pretty good

jay

[Sonicjoy]

You can just use your razor knife and a straight edge. Works just fine. Lay the Norez down hard side up, draw your cut lines then lay a straight edge on it and make 3-4 light passes until through the backing then a couple passes to get through the foam. Make sure you use a fresh blade.

[Rock Ball]

I wrestled with this very subject.

Here's my planning sketch.



The panels are not exactly 24 inches wide.  Closer to 23 3/4.  Some edges and corners were damaged so I had some limitations.

I received 13 panels for both 3x12 H-Frame subs and NX-Tremes.  Four panels are allotted to the subs, so I chose that configuration.

I chose to measure and cut for exact fits on the front, and live with gaps on the back.





It really is important to have nice even cuts on the front edge if you are interested in the cosmetics.

I borrowed my neighbor's table saw (before the quarantine).  It is messy but it works well, just like everyone says.

[Woodsage]

I also used a table saw (with a rip blade) to cut mine. It was fast, easy and left nice clean edges even though most of my edges were going to be covered. Additionally I made grills to hide the bass drivers.

And I too cheated the material towards the front of the h-frame leaving a gap at the back but no gaps at the corners. Even if the front edge of the no-Rez had been visible I would have used butt-joints not miters.












gguy,

I’ve never been able to get a real clean cut through foam of any kind with a razor knife. So given your choices I would go with the jigsaw with a pretty aggressive blade and cutting with my jigsaw against the hard, back of the foam. I’d also figure out some sort of straight edge guide to run the jigsaw’s footplate on so my cuts were as straight as possible. The short cross cuts I would mark with a square and probably cut free hand.

Good lucky and I envy you your third woofer.....

[Folsom]

bandsaw works fabulous, too, if you need shapes.

[gguy]

Thank you for the replies everyone.  It looks like I need to get my hands on a small table saw to do this right.  I haven’t tried nesting the pieces on the no Rez, but my inner OCD won’t let me leave the back panel pieces with gaps, so I may need to get another sheet.  I plan on tackling it this weekend so we’ll see how it goes.

[gguy]

I also used a table saw (with a rip blade) to cut mine. It was fast, easy and left nice clean edges even though most of my edges were going to be covered. Additionally I made grills to hide the bass drivers.

And I too cheated the material towards the front of the h-frame leaving a gap at the back but no gaps at the corners. Even if the front edge of the no-Rez had been visible I would have used butt-joints not miters.












gguy,

I’ve never been able to get a real clean cut through foam of any kind with a razor knife. So given your choices I would go with the jigsaw with a pretty aggressive blade and cutting with my jigsaw against the hard, back of the foam. I’d also figure out some sort of straight edge guide to run the jigsaw’s footplate on so my cuts were as straight as possible. The short cross cuts I would mark with a square and probably cut free hand.

Good lucky and I envy you your third woofer.....

Awesome setup BTW

[Sonicjoy]

Yes very nice set up and room Woodsage! Are those Acoustic Fields brand QD diffuser's and bases? I really would like some of those myself. Did you build them yourself?

[Woodsage]

bandsaw works fabulous, too, if you need shapes.

I built these for a customer back in 2016 and Folsom's comment sparked my memory a bit. I think I did use my bandsaw to cut my no-rez using the rip fence. When cutting soft things like this I've found the bandsaw is a lot safer than the table saw, because of its lower blade speed it tends to grab a lot less. gguy, sorry for giving you conflicting info. I do think you could get good results with a jig saw as long as you worked out a decent straight edge system to keep your cuts straight.

Yes very nice set up and room Woodsage! Are those Acoustic Fields brand QD diffuser's and bases? I really would like some of those myself. Did you build them yourself?

Thanks Sonicjoy. I was lucky enough to enjoy that listening room for 12 years but it is no longer mine. Lots of life changes since then, the bulk of them really good.

The floor, wall behind the speakers and wall to the right were all concrete. Additionally there was light weight concrete in the ceiling for hydronic heating above so it was a real solid room. The room treatments were built by my buddy and ex-business partner and were built from Decware plans. There are bass traps in the corners as well as diffusers on the side walls and they made a huge difference.

My buddy who built the room treatments took up guitar building in his retirement and is now an accomplished luthier. Here's a shot of one of his guitars next to a couple of my builds.

[Captainhemo]

Thank you for the replies everyone.  It looks like I need to get my hands on a small table saw to do this right.  I haven’t tried nesting the pieces on the no Rez, but my inner OCD won’t let me leave the back panel pieces with gaps, so I may need to get another sheet.  I plan on tackling it this weekend so we’ll see how it goes.

Remember, if you  run it all the way back to the baffle, you'll need to strip back some of the foam  on the   baffle side edge ,  1" - 1.25" .
From your above comment,  I assume you'll be  doing the mitered corners... if that is the  case,    all your pieces will be the same length, just shy of   13" .  When they meet in the corners, you  need  just  a little wiggle room to  get those  45 degree  corners of the hard  damping layer to  join up... it's alittle tricky  due to the   PSA .
If you've cut  say  .75"  grill receses on the  outer edges of the panels, cutting the  13" pieces  5.75"  wide  will get you  right back to the baffle... if you  use a  thin curve blade on the saw  (3/16 ),  you'll   just be able to to get  4  13 x 5.75"   pieces from each   half  sheet of no rez  (  cut each full sheet into 2 13.5 x 24  pieces).

It is easy to get complacent when cutting a big  pile of this stuff,  be careful  especially if you borrow a table  saw.

jay

[mlundy57]

If you use a table saw, I've found a 120 tooth blade designed for thin plywood works well on NoRez.

[Roy Boy]

I just ordered 4 sheets of No-Rez to do a pair of Klipsch Chorus II after I braced the interior similar to what Tyson and Danny did on the Forte 3's.  I used a jigsaw with a fine tooth blade. That worked great.

[Tyson]

I just ordered 4 sheets of No-Rez to do a pair of Klipsch Chorus II after I braced the interior similar to what Tyson and Danny did on the Forte 3's.  I used a jigsaw with a fine tooth blade. That worked great.

Nice!  That's super cool that we inspired you   How does the Chorus II sound now, after bracing?