[zybar]

Has anybody in the Boston area done this recently?

If you had a good experience, coudl you let me know what products you used and who did the install?

Thanks,

George

[Devil Doc]

I got Harvey windows. They're an industry standard window that met all the specs for the tax break. I had them installed by a local fella here in NH. Best money I ever spent. I'll give you the same advice I got from a house builder I know. "You don't need the very best window". The companies that heavily advertise in our area are selling $600 windows. You'll do just fine with windows half that price.

Doc.

[bummrush]

We replaced 14 windows 5 years ago for 8,000 including install.also the company at that time sold Lindlies not sure about sp. We bought other line they sold and we were glad they told us recently they had nothing but trouble with the Lindsies.

[ctviggen]

I got Harvey windows. They're an industry standard window that met all the specs for the tax break. I had them installed by a local fella here in NH. Best money I ever spent. I'll give you the same advice I got from a house builder I know. "You don't need the very best window". The companies that heavily advertise in our area are selling $600 windows. You'll do just fine with windows half that price.

Doc.

You don't need the very best window because most homes are not very energy efficient.  My house, for instance, has R-11 insulation in the walls!  Therefore, buying super energy efficient windows doesn't really make sense.

[JLM]

When we were getting ready to build here in Michigan 7 years ago I found a guy who sold/distributed a number of brands.  He talked my ear off, but wouldn't recommend any brands (wanted me to draw my own conclusions).  But as I recall some of the highlights:

1. Different vendors do different window types (casement, slider, double hung, awning, etc.) better than others.

2. Much of the hardware (casement cranks, latches, etc.) are produced by a very limited number of suppliers, so virtually all window vendors use the same 3 or 4 sets.

3. Anderson has nice finishes and did a good job with double hungs, but are glorified vinyl windows with interior wood trim.

4. Most aluminum windows are formed from pre-painted (thin) sheets.  The paint has to be thinly applied to allow for the bending involved.  Thin paint leads to oxidation in time that causes it to wash off with each rain (we’ve all seen that on older aluminum sided houses).  Extruded aluminum uses thicker paint that is applied after it is formed.

Basically windows are poor insulators (typically R2 – R4) but the big energy losses come from infiltration (leakage).  Hinged designs (casement, awning, and transom) seal better than double hung or slider styles.  Also consider fixed units (less expensive and minimum leakage) where ventilation isn’t needed (particularly if you have/use central air or you have an abundance of windows).

I typically buy upper middle (hopefull high value) class in life (like a Toyota Camry) as I don’t seem to have good luck with cheap stuff and know that the top end stuff is overpriced.

We ended up with all Norco (Jel Win) casement/awning/fixed units (extruded aluminum with interior wood trim).  I consider them a “poor man’s Pella window”.  They don’t have the internal shade/blind option, the huge air space between panes, or options of the top of the line Pellas, but they seal great against wind/rain/sound, allowed for custom mutton bars, and were reasonably priced.  But their fixed units do end up with exposed/slightly recessed screw heads to allow for future replacement (the painter should fill in wood putty before painting/staining).

Unfortunately we also bought 2 sets of Norco French doors.  After 5 years one leaks below the hinge between the frame and door and they all leaked around the glass.

[ctviggen]

That's good info.  I used to get Fine Home Building, and they discussed these issues all the time (though you got good info that probably wouldn't be in FHB, without the advertisers yanking advertisements).  One thing they discussed was the best windows are casement style typically, and from Canadian or European manufacturers.  Triple glazed windows were the best, but these style of casement, super energy efficient windows don't make sense unless your house is similar in design.  For a house like mine, I could replace the windows with medium grade windows and probably be OK. 

The best investment I've done so far is replace my aging oil furnace with another oil furnace.  Last winter was brutal here, and I still used hundreds of fewer gallons of oil.  And that's with the crappy windows I have. 

So, if you have an old furnace and old windows, you might consider furnace first then windows.  If you have a relatively new furnace, you still might consider sealing leaks in the attic and adding insulation there, then windows after that.  This depends on your windows, too.  We have one window where we can feel the cold air coming in, and I took off the trim and sealed around (oh yeah, my windows have no sealant around them!).

[putz]

Totally agree that window replacement will not give you the biggest bang for your energy savings buck.

We replaced all the upstairs windows that were circa 1966 about 3 years ago. Mainly because they were falling apart and screen and storms would no longer slide up and down (house settling?). Utility costs did not really improve, but our windows now work.

Last year we replaced furnace/water heater,reinsulated attic/basement and a few other things. Energy costs are down about 30%. We also got money from NJ Clean Energy as well as Fed tax credit, so $22,000 job had a net cost of $9,000 which NJCE financed with a 10 year 0% loan. The $83 a month loan payment is about what we're saving on utility bills per month.