AudioCircle
Audio/Video Gear and Systems => Open Baffle Speakers => Topic started by: matevana on 7 Jan 2018, 03:58 pm
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(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=174047)
A common barrier into this hobby can be a lack of DIY construction skills or access to such services. While some are content cutting circles in boards, others may want an end result that is a bit more pleasing, with finishes that are tailored to a living room or den.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=174048)
The Universals represent an open baffle system that yield good results with a variety of drivers, at a fraction of the cost of branded systems. They have a professional aesthetic and require minimum woodworking and no finishing skills. All of the parts can be sourced easily in the US. A bill of materials is provided for those who may want to duplicate this effort. As of January 2018, the cost per side is around $50, just add your own drivers.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=174049)
The Universals consist of two main components; namely, a heavy duty suspension system (stands) and a baffle system.
The stands are well balanced, made of heavy cast iron, and will properly support a variety of baffle shapes and sizes. They are used to elevate the primary driver to a proper height; at or slightly above ear level at the listening position. Often times, driver compensation can be reduced just by incorporating this one design goal. While not necessary, the 3” diameter cast iron tubes can be filled with buckshot to gain mass, or left open to conceal speaker wire.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=174050)
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The baffle system is comprised of (A) the baffle board itself, (B) a universal bracket assembly, and (C) the component shelf.
(A) Baffle Board:
For years I have used cabinet doors as baffles. They are typically very dense, sealed to prevent warping, and available in a variety of finishes and sizes that can be appropriate for many DIY open baffle projects. I recommend flat faced cabinet doors with no recess, raised panels, etc. Fortunately these are often among the least expensive offerings.
For the purpose of this particular build, the baffle dimensions are 18” x 30” which is an ideal starting point for many projects.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=174051)
(B) Bracket Assembly
I have used many different types of bracket assemblies to attach baffles to stands. The one proposed in this project is among the least expensive and most universal. It can be adapted for use with a variety of baffles.
Baffles are attached to the bracket assembly at 4 suspension points, and are coupled with socket cap bolts, lock nuts, and suspended on rubber o rings. All of these parts are available at big box stores, online, and other sources. You can reference my bill of materials as a starting point.
The assembled bracket assembly also doubles as a template for drilling 4 mounting holes on any appropriately sized baffle. This comes in handy when you want to change a design or upgrade in the future.
Note per sketch that there are a total of 4 brackets used per side; 2 upper an 2 lower.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=174052)
(C) Component Shelf
The component shelf adapts the stand to the bracket assembly. I often use this space to mount crossover components. It represents the shortest distance to the drivers so it can be a great place to mount a small power amplifier in a direct fed application.
It should be noted that this project as illustrated, is setup to accommodate an 18” wide baffle with typical drivers. The component shelf (currently 12” x 12”) can be cut wider to accommodate larger baffles, or if more driver space is required between brackets. Always verify stability when increasing both width and height.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=174053)
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Bill of Materials & Suggested Sources: (Pricing as of Jan 2018 in USD, priced per side- duplicate for a pair)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=174054)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=174055)
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Since some may be curious about other baffle sizes that can be adapted for use, this particular series of cabinet door is offered as follows:
12" Width Lengths of 30 and 40"
15" Width Lengths of 20, 30, 40, 50, 60"
18" Width Lengths of 15, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60"
21" Width Lengths of 20, 30, 40"
24" Width Lengths of 20, 30, 40, 50, 60"
For those who might object to the exposed hinge recess on the back of the panel, I have found a source for a 35mm recess cover
available in dark brown/black. They are available on eBay at a cost of $5.95 for a pack of 10.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=174056)
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Wow, this is super cool! Thank you.
Is there a 'best' driver size? What about a multi-driver array with a crossover? Seems like a cheap and easy way to test active system experiments and stuff.
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Wow, this is super cool! Thank you.
Is there a 'best' driver size? What about a multi-driver array with a crossover? Seems like a cheap and easy way to test active system experiments and stuff.
I really just wanted to put this out as a flexible design concept. I'm currently running a pair of small full range drivers and found the 18" x 30" baffle to be ideal. For those who want the baffle to continue down to the floor, you can easily substitute a 40" or 50" length, and add more drivers as well. The stands are rated for commercial table tops weighing in excess of 100 lbs.
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Neat idea! :thumb:
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Thank you sir!
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This is a really clever idea!
When I built my audio room I used these exact cabinets doors for my kitchen. Now I can build these and they will match perfectly :thumb:
What's great is Ikea has a few doors that are flat. And another few that come to mind is one that also has the horizontal lines in a cream color and a couple colors in high gloss if you like that look.
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Yes exactly. I’m like a kid in a candy store when I go there. There’s a flat birch style as well as a nice high gloss gray. On the high-end there’s also a gloss designer red. It’s great how they let you buy the doors without the boxes. If you don’t live near IKEA, you can order online and have them shipped.
I suppose you could even double up on the baffles and mount two contrasting finishes back to back. All in all lots of possibilities!
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I suppose if you are mounting larger drivers on bigger doors you could double up for that reason as well. They would be a lot stiffer and heavier. I actually use an Ikea shelving unit for my audio rack, it cost all of $69.00 and works great until I can get around to building one.
Ikea is a great place for thinking outside the box. Prices are good and you can always find multiple uses for the products they sell. Their butcher block table tops for one. A lot of guys cut them up for audio rack shelves. Fun stuff for sure :thumb:.
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Greg,
I actually use IKEA’s butcher block cutting boards along Herbie’s Giant Fat Gliders for turntable isolation.
Sorry for the off topic, back to Matevana’s kind OB contribution :D
Best,
Anand.
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Greg,
I actually use IKEA’s butcher block cutting boards along Herbie’s Giant Fat Gliders for turntable isolation.
Sorry for the off topic, back to Matevana’s kind OB contribution :D
Best,
Anand.
LOL, you know you're an Audiophile when...
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Here's a few additional configuration possibilities using the same stand/bracket system:
1) 2 X 10" Woofers + Tweeter/FR in 18" x 30" Baffle
2) 15" Woofer + Tweeter/FR in 21" x 40" Baffle (widen component shelf to 15")
3) 2 X 15" Woofers + Tweeter/FR in 21 x 50" Baffle (widen component shelf to 15")
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=174280)
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Great idea. Anyone else build a pair? Would love to see pics.
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For what it's worth, I've added on to the original configuration slightly. The design now includes a 2nd (reverse mounted) full range driver as well as a rear facing pro sound super tweeter (not visible in the photo below). I have built two other pairs at the request of others but they were all identical in appearance.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=188916)
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I somehow missed this thread until now. :duh:
These are great ideas. I’m going to try it out when I get home.
Thank you!
Michael
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This is a really great design that beginners can execute. If only ikea would open in hawaii ;_;
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Just getting into open baffles. Great ideas! Thanks!
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One more like
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these are great ideas...with easy access to Ikea we can experiment a lot more. Can you post some possible drivers for the combinations...that would be extremely helpful
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these are great ideas...with easy access to Ikea we can experiment a lot more. Can you post some possible drivers for the combinations...that would be extremely helpful
This is very much dependent on the size of the baffle that you ultimately select. Take a look at reply #13 in this thread for instance. If you use an 18 x 30 inch baffle for example, it would be possible to fit up to two 10" woofers plus a small full range driver in the center. Recommendations for specific drivers fall in line with other recommended drivers on this circle, i.e., the Universals are more of a mounting system than a documented speaker project.
In practice, I use them to test drivers in open baffles, as it is simple to have multiple drivers/baffles and swap them in minutes.
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Hi,
I love this approach. I saw it previously, and forgot about it until now. And now I have time on my hands for projects, and if I don't feel like taking the trip Ikea will ship!
I have a couple of questions: do you think you are sacrificing potential bass with the baffle not going all the way down to the floor?
Also, do you think it would be possible to mount one board going down for a woofer, and then a separate one on top? I like to experiment with different drivers, and this would make it easy to have smaller baffles with different drivers premounted. I'm thinking of the 18" wide panels, 30" for the lower (woofer) part, and then 15" ones for the upper end. Do you think the brackets would be strong enough?
Thanks for a great idea, and for keeping up with the discussion.
Pete
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I have a couple of questions: do you think you are sacrificing potential bass with the baffle not going all the way down to the floor?
Not in my case since I was using them as satellites, but if you are contemplating large woofer(s) you can benefit from mounting them close to the floor and extending the baffle all the way down.
Also, do you think it would be possible to mount one board going down for a woofer, and then a separate one on top?
Yes, with some modifications. Here’s a few things to consider:
I suggest using both halves of the L-brackets (upper/lower) for the lower (heavier) baffle. You will need this for strength and to minimize vibration. Think about putting rubber feet on the bottom edge of the lower baffle and extending it to the floor, which will give you an additional support point.
Keep in mind the baffle’s extension is determined by the depth of the component shelf. Be mindful of the depth of the woofer(s), as you don’t want the driver’s magnet to contact the stand’s cylindrical column behind it.
If you do something similar to the above, you will need a new way to mount the upper baffle that you are proposing. You can come off the top of the component shelf (strong) and inset the upper baffle an inch or two. This will be help align the smaller driver(s) acoustic center to that of the woofers.
If that's a bit confusing, I can try to sketch something for you.
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Here's a few additional configuration possibilities using the same stand/bracket system:
1) 2 X 10" Woofers + Tweeter/FR in 18" x 30" Baffle
2) 15" Woofer + Tweeter/FR in 21" x 40" Baffle (widen component shelf to 15")
3) 2 X 15" Woofers + Tweeter/FR in 21 x 50" Baffle (widen component shelf to 15")
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=174280)
I like the option 2) and 3) with Eminence Alpha 15" woofers (Qts 1.26)
https://www.parts-express.com/eminence-alpha-15a-15-driver--290-407
Plus a really nice 1.4" compression driver in appropriate waveguide. Crossing at 1kHz or so should be no problem in home setting.
https://audioxpress.com/article/test-bench-radian-audio-engineering-745pb-1-4-compression-driver
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I like option 3, particularly to raise impact from the woofers. Acoustic elegance’s 15” OB driver is worth a look as well. It’s an amazing performer, and my next OB choice. The eminence alphas are great too, And work really well in an active system.
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Hey Pete,
This is what I had in mind. You can use an additional L-bracket coming off the top of the component shelf for the upper baffle. This will be strong, and allow the existing upper and lower brackets to support the full weight of the lower baffle. Measure the depth of your woofer and adjust the component shelf dimensions so the magnet clears the stand. Extending the lower baffle to the floor will add stability.
This will let you swap upper baffles for new drivers, and help better align the acoustic centers of large and small drivers. For perspective, I'm showing the design with an 18" woofer below and an 8" full range driver above. You can adjust the individual baffles to accommodate your own driver designs.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=209196)
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Wow, that's great - thank you for the sketch!
Thank you for mentioning the need to push the lower board forward so the woofer magnet clears the stand - great point.
I was thinking that the upper baffle might simply attach to the top of the lower one, rather than to the component shelf. But I like the idea of trying to align the driver centers too.
I have one more question- on your parts list, where do the o-rings get used? (And do the bolts need washers?)
Thank you again- this (along with the stay-at-home time on my hands) might just be the plan I've needed to play around with the collection of wide range drivers I've got sitting around!
Pete
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I believe you are describing something like this below. The O-rings go between the L-bracket and the baffle, around each mounting bolt. The idea is to float the baffle so it doesn't come in contact with the plastic bracket. I ended up using black oxide locking nuts (with the plastic insert) just b/c it was a cleaner look, instead of a separate lock washer.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=209203)
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Just came across this looking into OB DIY design. Very good ideas. Looked up the table X stand and noticed they are now around 115 a piece now. :o
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Hi,
A quick web search shows that Amazon has them for $51 including shipping. Typically I correspond with 1-2 people every month who build a version of this system, and they are still able to find them closer to the original price. Apparently with COVID many school renovations are taking place so availability varies on these table bases, which are often used in school cafeterias and on college campuses.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=218896)
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delete wrong thread