[ric]

A few years back, I upgraded my Spatial Audio M3TS' caps with Jupiter caps and love the (new) sound. More recently, for a second system, I picked up a pair of Tekton Electron speakers. Although I still prefer the Spatials, the Tekton's are impressive, but the bass, mid bass has seemed liked it could be a bit fuller, so I replaced the $1.10 82uf Orevox cap with a Mundorf M Cap ($50 ea.)
   Voila, I am now getting the fullness--more body to the sound that had bugged me a little bit. Tekton does offer upgraded versions of their speakers, but they do not offer sending an upgrade package for used speakers. It just surprises me, using a $1 cap really truncates the potential sound, and I would have liked to upgrade the 82uf to Jupiters or Miflex, but the cost is prohibitive.
    The Spatials also used very inexpensive (cheap) caps for two reasons, 1) cost 2) trying to fit the crossover into a 1.5" deep cavity, but come on, designers, paying a little more is worth having a much better sound, IMO.
Just my 2 cents for upgrading, thanks.

[Bullitt5094]

I've wondered what caps my Ulfberhts have in them also. But a while back I discussed the beryllium tweeter upgrade with Eric and my wife informed me that if I do anything to those speakers that changes the sound in any way, I would suffer a fate worse than death. And she is normally pretty compliant with my need to tinker with stuff. But not with the Ulfs! Maybe I'll just call Eric and ask... 

[ric]

If it's just the tweeter and not the midrange, you can always put the stock one's back in. good luck!

[Bullitt5094]

That is a very good point, but sometimes it's just good to fully comply with the request of the boss. Especially when she is so supportive and thoroughly enjoys one of my hobbies. And it isn't like it needs fixing, either. On that point I certainly agree with her. Generally I like soft dome tweeters better than metal anyway. On the Caps point I am very curious about that. But going back is much harder on that upgrade. But there may be very good quality caps in there already. I'm very hesitant to disassemble those speakers. Call me chicken.

[rollo]

  I would leave it be if you are pleased. Try different gear, cables for kicks.


charles

[Early B.]

I'm very hesitant to disassemble those speakers. Call me chicken.

Chicken -- unscrew the bottom woofer and pop it out. Grab a flashlight and take pics of the crossover. Jot down the values of each part. Screw the woofer back on. Post pics of the crossover here, but redact the cap and resistor values. We'll tell you if it's beneficial to upgrade the parts. BTW -- there's a 95% chance you can improve the sound of your speakers with a modest investment in higher quality parts. If you don't have basic soldering skills, invite a DIY buddy over for some beer and he'll be happy to do it. Your wife doesn't need to know why the speakers suddenly sound better.

[Bullitt5094]

I am very capable of this. I've built many speakers from scratch. I even own a CNC router to do so. I've built multiple Pass amps from the stuffing the pc board level. I'm more than capable of this but things CAN happen unexpectedly such as the paint sticking to the sub and stripping from the enclosure. Or damaging a cone with a screwdriver. I'm not even close to a rookie at this. Crazy sounding, I know, but don't want to take the risk, at any level, because I'm not seeing a need for the rewards. I know it's unusual on any of the audiophile sites, but I can actually be OK with a system/component as it is. I just don't feel the need to chase the dragon in this case. Please don't ban me! 

[Early B.]

I know it's unusual on any of the audiophile sites, but I can actually be OK with a system/component as it is. I just don't feel the need to chase the dragon in this case. Please don't ban me! 

(...sirens blaring in the background as the bullhorn is raised...) Please be aware that AC has revoked your audiophile membership effective immediately!!!

[ric]

Oh, one more thing about the Tektons and SQ, a cheap tweak.
Another aspect on certain recordings was that the speakers good sound a bit metallic (bright). I ended up changing the 52! screws holding the speakers in with brass--tamed the brightness. Easy to do, just use the same size screw. Of course, if it's not broke, don't fix it!

[kd4ylq]

Hey Ric,
            I have stock Spatial M3 Turbos and am very interested in the cap change you did. Can you share details of this (here or in another thread or PM)? Thanks so much and BTW, a little trepidation is not a bad thing when mortals with limited budgets are pursuing better sound!

[Bullitt5094]

Oh, one more thing about the Tektons and SQ, a cheap tweak.
Another aspect on certain recordings was that the speakers good sound a bit metallic (bright). I ended up changing the 52! screws holding the speakers in with brass--tamed the brightness. Easy to do, just use the same size screw. Of course, if it's not broke, don't fix it!

The Ulfs actually have a pair of terminals on the back where you can add a resistor to temper the high end if you think it needs it. Haven't played with that either. Another strike at my audiophile rating.

[ric]

Yes, but if the resistor is there to temper an artificial brightness due to a magnetic reaction to the screws being so close to the magnets, then what? I think it may be because brass would have to be painted to not stand out, but whatever the choice, mine is to replace steel screws with brass. I may try out titanium screws as well just out of curiosity to see if there is any sound difference between brass and titanium. I know that the Herbies products guy says that titanium sounds better than brass in his applications. YMMV!

[ric]

For KD

https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=150989.msg1743472#msg1743472

[Bullitt5094]

Deep inside I know if I start down this path I'll end up building a Pass active crossover and (4) F6 amps, then adding beryllium tweets/mids and a speaker filled with unattainium screws. My projects tend to gain a lot of momentum and lives of their own.

Would that be worth the divorce? Please vote below...

[Early B.]

Deep inside I know if I start down this path I'll end up building a Pass active crossover and (4) F6 amps, then adding beryllium tweets/mids and a speaker filled with unattainium screws. My projects tend to gain a lot of momentum and lives of their own.

Would that be worth the divorce? Please vote below...

Yep. However, limit yourself to the crossover upgrade.

BTW -- the beryllium tweeter "upgrade" may not be worthwhile. Last year I installed the exact non-beryllium (aluminum) version of my tweeter in my speakers and couldn't tell any difference at all. Do a bit of research first. Most so-called beryllium tweeters are mixed with other metals. Beryllium is very toxic so it requires a ton of equipment and safety measures to be used correctly, so most of the beryllium tweeters on the market are likely coated with only a tiny amount of beryllium.