[PZ]

Thinking about 3/8” rabbet cut into the inside edge of sides, and have the long parts of the grill only 1/2”. While dry fitting parts I realized getting the grill in and out would be cumbersome without some kind of knob / pull. So I decided to cut the back down 3/4” from the sides (original design dimensions) and found that the grill can easily be removed by grabbing it from the back of the speaker and lifting up without any pulls or knobs.

I’ll have enough MDF cut up to make two or three pairs of cabinets since I’ve been playing around with this mock up.

[Sonicjoy]

Sounds like a great plan! Can't wait to see it.

[jcsperson]

Thinking about 3/8” rabbet cut into the inside edge of sides, and have the long parts of the grill only 1/2”. While dry fitting parts I realized getting the grill in and out would be cumbersome without some kind of knob / pull. So I decided to cut the back down 3/4” from the sides (original design dimensions) and found that the grill can easily be removed by grabbing it from the back of the speaker and lifting up without any pulls or knobs.

Nice idea! 

[PZ]

You can see 3/4” cut down Of back part in this pic. Original design vs side walls to the top.

[mlundy57]

Another option would be to put a magnet in the grill frame then you could use any piece of ferrous metal to remove the grill.

[Peter J]

Another option would be to put a magnet in the grill frame then you could use any piece of ferrous metal to remove the grill.

That's a really clever idea Mike. A grill key, so to speak. Hope you don't mind me sticking that in my idea bank for future use...

[mlundy57]

That's a really clever idea Mike. A grill key, so to speak. Hope you don't mind me sticking that in my idea bank for future use...

Not in the least. I’ve borrowed my fair share of ideas around here. Besides, that’s what this forum is all about 

[PZ]

Attached is my crossover thus far for NX studio.

I have wire nuts at the ends where I will attach wires and tube connectors.
(This is to help me remember tube connectors)

Does this look correct so far?

Having trouble finishing off the rest of it.
From pics in post threads it looks like Sonicjoy and Michaelhifi had different capacitors and I can't tell from blurry pics what goes where.

Should the 7ohm resistor go in parallel with the capacitor?
or should it go perpendicular to capacitor?

I have all parts in reading orientation from left to right, is this correct?

[Sonicjoy]

Study these carefully.
I see that the copper bypass cap you have is different in that the wires come out each end instead of the same end as mine do.
Just have to connect them the same as mine, on either side of the white sonicap at the top of the photo.


Upper left says positive input. Upper right says tweeter neg.
Lower left says woofer pos. Center tape says neg. input/woofer neg./tweeter pos. (all 3 connect together)


You can see the wires going to the inputs and drivers here. The red and white wires on the right going into the box go to the tube connectors.
the other two to the tweeter and the lower ones can be seen going to the woofer.

[Captainhemo]

Anyone know of a cabinet builder in the Midwest? I'm thinking of getting the kit, but without a flat pack don't believe I have the skill set to build something like Sonicjoy did. I know Mike L is an option as well and have reached out, but Danny suggested posting here as well. Thanks!

We will have full  flat packs soon

PZ, try not to post  values of cros over components,  I know that  can be  difficult at times when asking  questions.
I have not built out a pair of these yet but  know that the  resistor you are talking about  will be in series wit the  high pass cap ( in front of it).... should  be shown pretty  clearly on the  schematic...

jay

[Speaker Challenged]

Hi guys,
Thanks to Danny for linking me up to the forum and the NX studio thread. The NX studio's seem to go beyond just studio monitors. I assume that they are good as an upgrade to the Encore's for straight stereo listening? The enclosures look first rate.

My budget is tight so I am looking at the Encores for now but will keep this thread handy for when the upgrade itch needs to be scratched.

Great to be here. 

[Sonicjoy]

Welcome!

 The NX-Studio's are Danny's top of the line book shelf loudspeaker and is one of the very best speakers in its class. Member Tyson who is an equipment reviewer and is featured in some of Danny's videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFukgjWclr4 thinks they may just be the best speaker in it's class in the world. That of course is hard to know for sure. What that means is that they are not simply a good value for the money which they surely are but that they can and should be used with very the best equipment you can afford. If you just want something to use with budget equipment then it would be wasting their capabilities. However if you think you will want to keep improving your equipment over time know that they will only keep sounding better as you get better electronics and source's.  They will not likely ever be the weak link.

[MichaelHiFi]

Attached is my crossover thus far for NX studio.

I have wire nuts at the ends where I will attach wires and tube connectors.
(This is to help me remember tube connectors)

Does this look correct so far?

Having trouble finishing off the rest of it.
From pics in post threads it looks like Sonicjoy and Michaelhifi had different capacitors and I can't tell from blurry pics what goes where.

Should the 7ohm resistor go in parallel with the capacitor?
or should it go perpendicular to capacitor?

I have all parts in reading orientation from left to right, is this correct?

I think Sonicjoy's caps and mine are the same. The leads exit out at one end of the cap in Sonicjoy's and both ends on mine.

It might be prudent to NOT use my photo's as I never got confirmation that my x-overs are/were built correctly, only that I had located my lost schematic and it seemed correct. That and the speakers played well until a woofer stopped woofing.

[WarmColors]

Question

Are the dimensions still the same as the test box when first introduced to the public?
"The test boxes are 18" tall, 8.5" wide and 14.5" deep."

[Sonicjoy]

They are 18" tall 8.5" wide and 15.5" deep.

[WarmColors]

Ok here is the crossover part.



This was the mock up I did and asked Danny to confirm that it looked correct and he did. Thanks Danny!



Here are the parts ready to go. For details on crossover assembly read the Sticky "Crossover 101" Thread.

Edit: Make the crossover board 4 7/8 inches by 8 inches. Once you have the locations for the zip ties marked, stack them and drill both at the same time so they are the same.



Here they are ready to be hooked up.



The input wires installed with the tube connectors.

Edit: Be sure to review the tube connector Sticky thread to be sure you install them correctly.

Now I will caution others to be careful with your wire lengths as there is just enough length included in the kit. Just!



All connections made and ready to install the crossovers and woofer. Tweeter is already mounted.
You should mount the tweeter before wiring it. I drilled 1/8" holes for the tweeter wires. It fits nice and snug with no sealer needed.

Edit: Notice the Kleenex box under the crossover. That's to raise it up to make the tweeter wire shorter while soldering it to the board to save wire length.


Closer view.



Mounted on the bottom with 3 screws.

Edit: You can see the two screws in the front and the third is in the center of the rear coil. Drill the holes ahead of time and start the screws before inserting the crossovers in the boxes. Be sure the screws you use are not so long that they go all the way through the bottom. I used 3/4" long screws.



Adding the poly fill as per the instructions.

Edit: Picked some up at a craft store. It does not come in the kit.



And assembled and bolted to the stands. Again I will take some better photos soon.



Showing the Norez and tweeter wires.

Edit: I drilled 1/8 inch holes in each front corner for the tweeter wires. It is a tight fit and does not need sealer.



Tube connectors and Anti Cable speaker cables.



Grill mounting clips installed. All that is left is to install the grill cloth.

Edit: A tip is you use the plastic clips like I did. Place the grill frame on the speaker. Mark the location where you want the clips. I put them 1 1/2 inches from the ends. Then drill a small 1/16 inch hole all the way through the frame and into the top of the box. This will locate the larger holes for the clips perfectly. In this case the hole are 3/8" in the box and 1/4" in the grill frame. I used forstner bits. You could use brad point bits but I would not use standard drill bits.


Grill frame installed. I decided to round over the top opening of the frame.
That was not in the instructions but seemed like a good idea as you don't want sharp edges near drivers inside or out of the speakers.
A nice flair for the sound to more smoothly roll out the top.
Note also that the grill cloth and mounting clips do not come with the kit.
I purchased these from "Simply Speakers". He even has a video on how to install the cloth on your frames.



And here they are in the primary position in my room all hooked up to the Rogue Pharaoh integrated amp that they will be paired with in my dads system.

As I mentioned all that is left is to install the grill cloth and then they are complete.

This has been a fun project for me. They turned out beautiful. The pictures don't do them justice. They really look sharp in person.
I will have the grills finished and get some good photos up soon.

Enjoy!

Question.

The speaker wire is that wire that Danny provides? or sells in his website? or should i purchase my own speaker wire? Any recommendations on gage?

[Hobbsmeerkat]

Question.

The speaker wire is that wire that Danny provides? or sells in his website? or should i purchase my own speaker wire? Any recommendations on gage?

The internal cable is the kind Danny provides along with the kit, its 16 gauge continuous cast pure copper.

Unless you mean the cables from the amps to the speakers, SonicJoy mentioned they're from Anticables. But I usually hear that speaker wire is usually said to be 10-14 gauge.

[WarmColors]

The internal cable is the kind Danny provides along with the kit, its 16 gauge continuous cast pure copper.

Unless you mean the cables from the amps to the speakers, SonicJoy mentioned they're from Anticables. But I usually hear that speaker wire is usually said to be 10-14 gauge.

Yes correct from the Amp to the speaker it self. Has anybody heard of Cardas? they are based out of Oregon. I believe Danny does recommend them for soldering wire.
I want to support local companies (i live in Oregon) and they have the cheapest wire which is 101Speaker  2.5m pair $225.00 or a crosslink wire for 315.00. Honestly i spent a lot of money and i don't want to take short cuts but my wallet is feeling very light lately.
They are also asking for 230.00 for interconnect. (i will be using the tube connector to connect to the speaker)

[corndog71]

For interconnects you could try Bluejeanscable.  Their LC-1 cable is made in America by Belden. 

But if you’re interested in trying a better-engineered cable then check out their premium line, Iconoclast which is also made by Belden.  I recently picked up a pair of their lower cost BAV RCA cables to bridge my preamp and amp.  Very impressive.  Sadly, I cannot afford their speaker cables.  The engineering is all laid out on the website.

[Digi-G]

So, I've got a question.  If it's already been answered elsewhere in this long thread, I apologize.

Why put the norez on the angled top of the speaker?  On the exterior!  I thought the idea of the tweeter being an open baffle was so the sound (projecting to the rear) could bounce off that angled surface, then off the rear wall and ceiling.  It seems like you're defeating the intent of the design by putting norez there.