AudioCircle
Industry Circles => GR Research => Topic started by: Sonicjoy on 17 Feb 2020, 02:48 pm
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Well I did not wast any time getting started on this project. So lets jump right in.
Edit: Note. This build is from scratch not a flat pack. The flat packs are not available yet but are in the works. The build details of the cabinets will be different with the flat packs. Will likely use slots and/or dowels which will make assembly easier (and require less clamps)for those without woodworking tools or skills.
This is how the kit arrives.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204772)
Baffles and Norez in the large box.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204773)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204774)
I ordered the copper cap upgrade. It was only $40. extra so why not. (lower right in photo)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204775)
First rip cut of the 3/4" MDF.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204776)
Cross cutting the rips to make the parts. in this case the four side panels to be veneered.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204777)
The 24" by 8' length of paper backed cherry veneer.
Edit: Tip. If using veneer make the panels slightly larger than the finished size, then veneer them and then trim them to final size on a table saw. Doing it this was will give perfect edges with the veneer. It is too hard trying to fit the veneer to the finished size panels and get clean edges.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204778)
Here the four side panels are veneered. The veneered faces are placed face to face and all clamped together.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204779)
After all the parts were cut out and carefully fitted the glue up began.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204780)
Parts awaiting their turn.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204781)
Adding the back.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204782)
The shop.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204783)
Adding the dividers. Notice I rounded over the exposed edges of the divider.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204784)
Installing the ramp top panel.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204785)
The grill frames. I rounded the top inside edge.
Edit: Tip. Make the frames slightly smaller in thickness width and length to allow for the thickness of the grill cloth. 5/8 inch thick should work for thickness and remove about 1/16" from each side, front and rear should be close. Otherwise the grill will end up being wider and taller than the speaker box.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204786)
Taking shape.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204787)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204788)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204789)
I am leaving one side off to allow for fitting the Norez and installing the tube connectors.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204790)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204791)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204792)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204793)
With their new stands. These are Elac stands for their Adante speakers.
These are very heavy duty and the perfect size for these speakers. Nice wide bases and will be bolted to the speakers.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204794)
Ready for the next steps.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204795)
Very excited to hear these!
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I am not seeing any pictures, just broken links.
Matt
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Are the photos on your computer or web?
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On my computer. Do I need to use a photo hosting service like Photobucket? I thought Audio Circle hosted them. I am using resized jpg's.
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No, and I don't recommend it, images are stable and forever here.
Use "upload and insert an image" button below the text box. Browse to photo location, choose file and press "upload and insert image". Image will upload to where your cursor is placed.
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Thanks Peter. I will try that tonight after work.
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Thanks again Peter! Your info was the ticket.
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Nice! :thumb:
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There is nothing like having access to good machinery!
Have you thought about which subwoofers you will add?
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Hi Maty. These are are for my Dad who is retired and lives in an apartment with neighbors under him so we can't have big subs unfortunately. He does have a small 8" sealed sub that has worked well in his current system. I will try using that and see how it goes.
Now I have heard mention on this forum that open baffle subs won't bother neighbors but in an apartment? I would find that hard to believe. Maybe in a house with neighbors a short distance away, I can see that. My own situation is like that. I have Emerald Physics EP 2.7 OB speakers that Danny worked his magic on with new crossover networks. These have dual 15" woofers and are very powerful. My closest neighbor is 60 feet away and when outside it is not the bass that you hear or feel but the mid range. My previous sealed box speakers were Vandersteen 3a sigs a with pair of 2wq sealed subs and with those I could feel the bass out in the yard.
Now I am planning to build a pair of H frame servo subs for myself this year. Maybe I will try them at his place just to see. The volume level will have to be kept low of course in either case. That's a compromise that has to be made. I'm hoping these will be great in a low level listening situation.
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Nice work.
Love the Festool stuff, very nice :thumb:
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You can add a subwoofer in an apartment.
Two factors must be taken into account:
* Do not lower much in frequency
* They are well insulated from the ground
In this way the low frequencies, which have a large wavelength, will be transmitted much less.
And do not exaggerately increase the volume, especially with modern films with many shots and explosions, which I guess your father will not see.
That is, use the sub to complete the frequency response with music up to a maximum of 40 Hz at -3 dB or better less. Therefore it is not necessary to spend a fortune on it, and less in a BIG sub. You can buy a fantastic one for those requirements for less than € 300 from the leading European manufacturer, designed and built in Germany, Canton. In NA, others advise you.
If only one, that the phase is adjustable and not only switchable between 0º and 180º, which will greatly facilitate its placement.
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Last week, in ASR forums, I wrote about the Canton sub:
-> https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/canton-gle-496-speakers-inside-pics-subjective-review.4543/post-327698 € 238.94
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Thanks for the info Maty. All things to consider. For now we will just take things a step at a time. It's my dads decision if he want's to try subs other than the small one he has now.
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Nice work.
Love the Festool stuff, very nice :thumb:
Thanks AlexH! Yes I love my Festool tools! Another addiction that I have picked up recently HaHa!
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BTW, Canton still using an old German audio standard to delimit the low frequency: cut to ... -10 dB (loudspeakers and subs).
https://www.canton.de/de/archiv/as-85.3
Übertragungsbereich
25...200 Hz
Übergangsfrequenz
55...200 Hz (regelbar)
Frequency response
25 ... 200 Hz
Crossover frequency
55 ... 200 Hz (adjustable)
25 Hz at -10 dB. Must be about 38 - 42 Hz at -3 dB, I suppose (without graph I can not say more).
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Here are the NX Studio's in front of my system. I am building a complete system for my dad. He gave me a budget of $5000. usd and it has all been spent. The rack and Rogue Audio Pharaoh integrated amp are part of his system. I am setting it up in my system as I assemble it. The Rogue is currently powering my EP 2.7's to put some hours on it as well as the Musical Fidelity DAC (not shown but behind the screen). Sounds great!
I am sold on the OB sound.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204813)
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Here are the NX Studio's in front of my system. I am building a complete system for my dad. He gave me a budget of $5000. usd and it has all been spent. The rack and Rogue Audio Pharaoh integrated amp are part of his system. I am setting it up in my system as I assemble it. The Rogue is currently powering my EP 2.7's to put some hours on it as well as the Musical Fidelity DAC (not shown but behind the screen). Sounds great!
I am sold on the OB sound.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204813)
Nice! I'm willing to bet you're going to be very surprised how the NX-Studio sounds. And that's a great system to trial them in.
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Im so excited to see the final results! I've already decided these are going to be my next set of speakers! so seeing the building process is going to make it a lot less daunting when the time comes to buy them!
Keep up the incredible work!
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Thanks Tyson! I am hoping I will like them. Danny told me not to be surprised if I like them better than the Emerald Physics. That would be a surprise because I love the sound of the EP's Best speakers I have owned.
It will be interesting to hear the difference. The NX-Studio has open baffle tweeter but not mid range and the EP's have open baffle mid and bass but not the tweeters. Looking forward to the comparison. Your impressions of these are one of the main reasons I decided to try them.
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Thanks Tyson! I am hoping I will like them. Danny told me not to be surprised if I like them better than the Emerald Physics. That would be a surprise because I love the sound of the EP's Best speakers I have owned.
It will be interesting to hear the difference. The NX-Studio has open baffle tweeter but not mid range and the EP's have open baffle mid and bass but not the tweeters. Looking forward to the comparison. Your impressions of these are one of the main reasons I decided to try them.
I've heard the EP's several times, they are very good speakers! Without a sub, the EP's will have a big advantage as the NX-Studios just don't go down very far. Which is a good thing, IMO. Why? Because Danny focused on getting max speed and resolution from that driver, even at the expense of much bass response. IME he's got the best cone midrange driver going. I think you will love it, especially if you can get a nice sub to fill in the bottom end during the demo.
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Sonicjoy, nice shop!
Thanks for taking the time to document the build and sharing the photos with us. You are doing a really nice job on those speakers.
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Im so excited to see the final results! I've already decided these are going to be my next set of speakers! so seeing the building process is going to make it a lot less daunting when the time comes to buy them!
Keep up the incredible work!
Thanks Hobbs. It's a fun project for me. I haven't build any speakers since I was about twenty (a long time ago). I will keep posting as the project continues.
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Sonicjoy, nice shop!
Thanks for taking the time to document the build and sharing the photos with us. You are doing a really nice job on those speakers.
Rock Ball I'm happy to share. I get a lot of good info from reading these forums and want to give back when I can.
Should have more to add after this weekend. Will be fitting the Norez and tube connectors and maybe starting the crossovers.
Thanks!
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This is great! Thanks for sharing Sonicjoy!
What's your plan for the wave guide for the tweeter? Paint it black?
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Hi Tomy. Ya probably black but I'm still trying to decide on the color scheme.
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Great build log so far. Can't wait to see the finishing touches. Thanks for taking the time to write it up and share it here!
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Wow! Looking great!
Saving up for a pair right now.
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Hi folks! I made some more progress on the NX Studio's this weekend. These are coming along nicely and I am having fun building them.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205150)
Both sides are now installed.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205151)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205152)
I have decided on the color scheme. The side panels are going to be clear finished cherry and the front and top will be black.
That was my original idea and I decided to stick with that.
I cut a saw kerf with a thin kerf blade on the table saw between the baffle and the side panels for an nice clean dividing line between the colors. It's about 1/16 inch deep.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205153)
I installed brass threaded inserts in the bottom for attaching the stands. I left a lip around the bottom edge to hide the mounting plate of the stand.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205154)
The 7/16 inch holes for the tube connectors.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205155)
After the first coat of finish. Boy that really brings out the grain of the cherry.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205156)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205157)
This is after three coats. I'm not sure how many coats I will put on. Just have to see how it looks. Probably at least five or six.
I also used a sealer on all MDF surfaces inside and out.
Next will be the black paint. (The back and bottom will also be black.) Then adding the Norez and installing the grill cloth and grill mounts.
At that point I will be ready to build the cross overs and then final assembly. Getting there.
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Looking good. :thumb:
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Just FYI, they will take about 120 hours of pretty good use to fully open up.
Do you know the burn in trick of facing the speaker directly at each other a few inches apart and inverting polarity on one speaker? Doing that lets you run them at pretty high volume but the phase inversion cancels out a bunch of the sound. Throw a couple heavy blankets over them and you can peacefully let them burn in while you sleep.
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That's good info, thanks for the tip, Tyson!
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Thanks guys! Tyson yes I have heard of that break in technique. I usually just put Pandora on and let it play all day while I'm at work. There's no one around here to bother during the day. Plus we use the audio system for TV as well so I gets a few hours a night that way as well. I absolutely love how my open baffle speakers sound with TV and movies! The imaging is just amazing. But that's another topic for an other day/thread.
I applied two more coats of finish on the cherry today. Five total now. Looking very good now. Cherry darkens a lot as it ages and is exposed to light so these will get much darker and richer in color as time goes on.
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Looking really good SJ. Like the lttle extras.. reveal between baffl / sdie panels, threaded inserts, & the lip to hide the stand plate. Gonna be nice man
jay
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Thanks Captain! Coming from you that is a nice complement. I will take some better photos when these are done. Been using my phone for the build but will break out the DSLR and take some nice portraits and post them.
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These are coming out awesome! Looks very good.
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Alright back with more progress. Completed the finishing this weekend as well as installed most of the Norez.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205425)
The veneer covered and masked off. The black is plastic from a trash bag.
I applied three coats of primer, four coats of satin black and two coats of clear.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205426)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205427)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205428)
Now you can get an idea of what these will look like.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205429)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205430)
The paint turned out very good for a rattle can job. I sanded between all coats with 320 grit.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205431)
After all the finishing I was able to take them home and work on them on the kitchen table.
(You guys have never done that have you?) :D
Here the Norez has been mostly installed. Still need a couple pieces around the crossovers after
they are installed and on the top ramp after the tweeters are installed.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205432)
Here are the dimensions of the side panels which are the hardest to figure out.
Tips for cutting the Norez to size: The sheets are 27" by 24" and 1" thick. I cut each sheet into 2 strips
5" by 27 and 2 strips 8" by 27". The 8" is for the sides and the 5" is for the top back and bottoms.
There is just barley enough so calculate carefully. After doing the inside I was left with a 5" by about 14"
long piece to do the top ramp with. The top needs to be 7" wide so cut the piece into two 5" by 7" pieces and it will be just enough.
The very few scraps can be used to fill in any small left over spaces. There was literally nothing left over.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205433)
These woofers look to be very high quality.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205434)
Very cool!
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205435)
Now starting see what the finished product will look like.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205436)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205437)
I just put a woofer and tweeter in to see what end result will look like.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205438)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205439)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205440)
I must say that I am very please with the look of these. There are so many ways to finish speakers
and I went back and forth quite a bit be for deciding on this look.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205441)
My listening room is starting to look like a HI-FI store with this project going on.
That's all for now. Next will be to finish the grills and then build out the crossovers and install them and the drivers and test it all out.
I just hope I can make sense of the crossover instructions. It's just a schematic. I think I understand it.
I may post a photo to have you guys look at it to make sure it looks right before I finalize it.
Anyway I'm on the down hill stretch. More soon.
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They do look very nice! Is there enough room through that woofer hole to mount the crossover?!? with my chubby hands not sure...haha.
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Impressive. You are a good son!
Clarified and optimized
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205442&size=huge)
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Thanks guys! That does look a little better Maty. I'm using my phone for the photos and editing. I will take some better pics with my DSLR after they are finished. Plus it's dark in my room early this morning.
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Thanks guys! That does look a little better Maty. I'm using my phone for the photos and editing. I will take some better pics with my DSLR after they are finished. Plus it's dark in my room early this morning.
What type of stands are those? I like them too!
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Those stands are Elac brand for their Adante stand mount speakers. I like the fact that they did not put their name on them so they look better with other brands of speakers. They are 23 1/2" high which puts the tweeters at 38" off the floor and can be filled with sand. (if you plug the wire holes). They have nice looking smoked chrome adjustable spikes as well. I got them from Music Direct for $240. They were an open box clearance special. Regular $300. $600. list, but don't pay that for them.
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Getting close to being done now - very exciting. I'm really interested to get your impressions of them once they are up and running. As I think back on all the speakers I demo'd at Danny's, in some ways I think it's the most impressive of the lot, because he gets such clean, clear, and big OB sound out of such small speakers that are half enclosed.
I will say this - that OB tweeter in the deep waveguide is something else. It was very surprising to me that Danny was able to create a midrange driver that keeps up with it.
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Don't forget to install the included black yarn in the Neo3 Tweeters:
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=152039.msg1626035#msg1626035
They look great, good job and thanks for sharing. Also looking forward to your impression when they're up and running.
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Wow, those turned out really nice! I wasn't sure at first about an all black front baffle with cherry sides but those just look incredible, well done!
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Ya it won't be long now. I am getting very excited to hear them! Tyson you keep stoking that fire HaHa! It's hard enough to wait as it is! I will let you all know what I think.
DeeJay I have not forgotten the yarn. Just wanted to get a visual so stuck the drivers in to get a quick look and get some photos to show you.
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They do look very nice! Is there enough room through that woofer hole to mount the crossover?!? with my chubby hands not sure...haha.
Yes you just have to make sure that the crossover board is narrower than the opening. There is enough room for one hand to work inside. Now I understand why Danny designed the divider brace the way he did. So there is room to work in there.
Just be sure to pre-drill the screw mounting holes in the crossover board ahead of time. That will make installing it in the box easier.
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AHHHH always nice when a plan comes together well. Nice work :thumb:
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Thanks Alex! Yes it is.
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So these monitors out compete the Klipsch Forte 3s.
In sound?
Image?
Clarity?
Higher quality components?
What else am I missing?
If I buy them I won't regret buying the monitors rather than the Fortes?
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Well I have not heard either yet but just looking at the designs yes the NX Studio is built much better. They are very heavy and solid well braced cabinets. I'm also sure that they should image a lot better, but they won't have near the low end output of the Forte 3's. The Klipsch are also more sensitive. The bottom line however is that these are very different loudspeakers designed for different purposes.
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Should I use mdf ranger (lighter) or actual mdf the heavier version?
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Well I have not heard either yet but just looking at the designs yes the NX Studio is built much better. They are very heavy and solid well braced cabinets. I'm also sure that they should image a lot better, but they won't have near the low end output of the Forte 3's. The Klipsch are also more sensitive. The bottom line however is that these are very different loudspeakers designed for different purposes.
I am very excited to call Danny and place my order. Did you use the heavier MDF or the lighter MDF?
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I used Glacier Green MDF by Plumb Creek Lumber. (owned by Weyerhaeuser) It's a lighter weight MDF. It's very high quality made in USA formaldehyde free. I'm sure either is fine just use a good quality MDF. I just weighed one and the box with only Norez installed is 25 lbs. Will be close to 30 with drivers and crossovers.
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So these monitors out compete the Klipsch Forte 3s.
In sound?
Image?
Clarity?
Higher quality components?
What else am I missing?
If I buy them I won't regret buying the monitors rather than the Fortes?
I've heard both. I heard the NX-Studio over a several day visit to Danny's. And I own the Klipsch Forte III. So a pretty good point of reference. IME the NX-Studio is better than the Klipsch Forte III in every area except sensitivity and bass extension/power. The NX-Studio Monitor just doesn't go as low as the Forte. However the bass that the NX-Studio DOES have is definitely cleaner and clearer. To get them to be full range, the NX-Studios need a good sub or 2. The other area the Forte's are better is sensitivity. If you plan to use amps with less than 10 watts, the Forte is probably a better choice. I'd say 25 watts is the minimum you want to give the NX-Studios.
The Forte's are a good, fun speaker for the money, no doubt. But on an absolute scale, they just aren't in the same class as the NX-Studio (plus sub).
sonicjoy, sorry for the slight thread hijack...
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No worries Tyson. That's right I forgot that you have the Forte 3's. You would be the one to answer that question best.
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looking at the first photo of the front ..that came with the kit it looked like it was already wood grained..ie veneered? is that true?
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Yes it did come with veneer. Danny got a good deal on a bunch of MDF that had veneer on it. You can buy it that way. But you probably can't bet on them all coming that way from Danny. Once his supply of that runs out. I'm not sure what kind of wood it is. Looks like cherry or maybe alder. He wasn't even sure what it was.
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Hi kids!
Back with more progress. Had a productive weekend and got these almost completely finished. All that's left is to finish the grills.
They are now up and running with about eight hours on them. I fully intended to post all the latest info and photos this morning but I could not tear myself away from listening to them. I will try to get the thread updated on the crossover and wiring details tonight.
And just to not keep you all waiting with the question of how do they sound?
All I will say at this point is that anyone wondering if these are as good as claimed. YES! :D :D :D
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205701)
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Just think - they aren’t even burned in yet!
I know when I heard them that I was astonished how much OB magic Danny was able to bestow on this design. And that midrange driver! Just incredible. IME this is definitely one of the very best speakers in the world.
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Tyson I remember Danny saying how good the first pair sounded right out of the gate. Looking forward to the improvements.
I will comment more on the sound shortly but first lets finish the build.
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Ok here is the crossover part.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205737)
This was the mock up I did and asked Danny to confirm that it looked correct and he did. Thanks Danny!
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205738)
Here are the parts ready to go. For details on crossover assembly read the Sticky "Crossover 101" Thread.
Edit: Make the crossover board 4 7/8 inches by 8 inches. Once you have the locations for the zip ties marked, stack them and drill both at the same time so they are the same.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205739)
Here they are ready to be hooked up.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205740)
The input wires installed with the tube connectors.
Edit: Be sure to review the tube connector Sticky thread to be sure you install them correctly.
Now I will caution others to be careful with your wire lengths as there is just enough length included in the kit. Just!
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205741)
All connections made and ready to install the crossovers and woofer. Tweeter is already mounted.
You should mount the tweeter before wiring it. I drilled 1/8" holes for the tweeter wires. It fits nice and snug with no sealer needed.
Edit: Notice the Kleenex box under the crossover. That's to raise it up to make the tweeter wire shorter while soldering it to the board to save wire length.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205742)
Closer view.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205743)
Mounted on the bottom with 3 screws.
Edit: You can see the two screws in the front and the third is in the center of the rear coil. Drill the holes ahead of time and start the screws before inserting the crossovers in the boxes. Be sure the screws you use are not so long that they go all the way through the bottom. I used 3/4" long screws.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205744)
Adding the poly fill as per the instructions.
Edit: Picked some up at a craft store. It does not come in the kit.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205745)
And assembled and bolted to the stands. Again I will take some better photos soon.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205746)
Showing the Norez and tweeter wires.
Edit: I drilled 1/8 inch holes in each front corner for the tweeter wires. It is a tight fit and does not need sealer.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205747)
Tube connectors and Anti Cable speaker cables.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205748)
Grill mounting clips installed. All that is left is to install the grill cloth.
Edit: A tip is you use the plastic clips like I did. Place the grill frame on the speaker. Mark the location where you want the clips. I put them 1 1/2 inches from the ends. Then drill a small 1/16 inch hole all the way through the frame and into the top of the box. This will locate the larger holes for the clips perfectly. In this case the hole are 3/8" in the box and 1/4" in the grill frame. I used forstner bits. You could use brad point bits but I would not use standard drill bits.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205750)
Grill frame installed. I decided to round over the top opening of the frame.
That was not in the instructions but seemed like a good idea as you don't want sharp edges near drivers inside or out of the speakers.
A nice flair for the sound to more smoothly roll out the top.
Note also that the grill cloth and mounting clips do not come with the kit.
I purchased these from "Simply Speakers". He even has a video on how to install the cloth on your frames.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205751)
And here they are in the primary position in my room all hooked up to the Rogue Pharaoh integrated amp that they will be paired with in my dads system.
As I mentioned all that is left is to install the grill cloth and then they are complete.
This has been a fun project for me. They turned out beautiful. The pictures don't do them justice. They really look sharp in person.
I will have the grills finished and get some good photos up soon.
Enjoy!
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Looks great, what was more fun, building it or using it?
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Hi Witchdoctor.
That's an interesting question. I would say I enjoy both pretty much equally. I love building things and I love music and playing with audio toys. I enjoy the whole process of researching the designs and learning and then seeing what others have build and then coming up with my version of a design and then seeing the end result come out as good or better than I hoped.
I admit that I had high expectations for these and so far I am thrilled with the performance and the looks. They sound amazing. Very engaging. Listening to them as I write this.
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...They sound amazing. Very engaging. Listening to them as I write this.
With or without subs?
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Hi Maty.
Currently without subs. Just want to hear them on their own. I'm trying to get some hours on them and running full range should break them in faster. I do plan on hooking them up to my main system soon and will hook up the Vandersteen 2wq subs you can see in the photo. That should be a great combo. They are excellent music subs! 3- 8" drivers in sealed enclosures with hi pass filters to remove the deepest bass from the main amps/speakers will clean up the bass and mids. That is not how my dad will run them but I do want to hear what they are truly capable of.
The bass is much better than I imagined on their own. Plenty enjoyable sans subs. Especially at low listening levels.
These are breaking in nicely now. Really starting to smooth out.
More to come as I get used to them.
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After the burn-in, I / we would appreciate 1+2 tests:
* Speakers with the top cover, closing the tweeter, without sub.
* Speakers closer to the wall, without sub. With and without top.
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Monitors look great!!
Question. Are you making the grills your self for the top and the tweeter?
Also since the speakers are tube connectors how will you hook them up to the amp?
I personally will be using NAD or PS Audio. They offer standard speaker terminals.
Or how does everyone else hook them up?
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Monitors look great!!
Question. Are you making the grills your self for the top and the tweeter?
Also since the speakers are tube connectors how will you hook them up to the amp?
I personally will be using NAD or PS Audio. They offer standard speaker terminals.
Or how does everyone else hook them up?
Tube connectors only go in on the speaker side. For the amp side you use regular spades or banana plugs.
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Tube connectors only go in on the speaker side. For the amp side you use regular spades or banana plugs.
That I know but is it a special cable that Danny supplies or do we cut into the standard speaker wire and solder the tube connectors?
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That I know but is it a special cable that Danny supplies or do we cut into the standard speaker wire and solder the tube connectors?
Solder the tube connectors to regular speaker wire.
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Check out the sticky on Electra Tube Connector installation instructions. It has pics.
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Hi guys. Tyson is correct you have to cut off whatever connectors are on the cables you are going to use and replace them with the tube connectors. Personally I prefer bare wire connections at the amp. I really like Anti Cable's speaker wire. It's inexpensive (you can buy the wire by it self and make up your own cables). It's solid core (like the internal wire Danny supplies in the kit) 12 gage wire with a very thin insulation for minimal capacitance. Because it's solid core it's stiff and you can bend and shape it as desired and it will hold that shape. You don't need cable risers and can rout it without it touching anything. Plus it sounds great, very clean and neutral.
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After the burn-in, I / we would appreciate 1+2 tests:
* Speakers with the top cover, closing the tweeter, without sub.
* Speakers closer to the wall, without sub. With and without top.
Maty I will do what I can. I have limited time with these, only a couple weeks before I deliver to my dads place and set the new system for him.
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Did I make the frames?
Yes I made the frames. I just have to wrap the fabric around the frames and glue it. Here is the video from Simply Speakers on installing it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=11&v=mVe0sjNZXCI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=11&v=mVe0sjNZXCI)
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So last night my wife and I had one of those rare listening experience's when the stars aligned and we were in the right mood and had the right music and everything just worked. We both had almost out of body experience's listening to Jamie Dupuis (the harp guitar guy). We were watching tv and she fell asleep and so I put youtube on started a Jamie Dupuis play list streaming and turned off the projector and the lights. Well that woke her up and we listened for almost an hour in the dark. After the second song she asked if those are the speakers I just made. I said of course and she said man that sounds good! We proceeded to just get lost in the music. It was truly an amazing experience! It takes a lot for her to even comment on anything audio related but she just kept going on and on about how good it was. Of course she loves his music and these speakers allowed it to come through in all it's glory. And that was just streaming youtube through the roku unit. She is still talking about it this morning! :D
These speakers have the ability to just disappear. Even better than my Emerald Physics EP 2.7's. and those are good.
These really are superb speakers! I must have those tweeters one day. They are incredible! Everyone talks about needing subs with these? Sure it would be nice but damn these things sound very satisfying on their own. They sound so good I don't even think about subs. Now in the long run I would use subs but if money is tight I would not worry about it at all.
Anyone on the fence about these? Don't be, you will not be disappointed.
Thank You Danny for such an amazing value!
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I guess you will cry when they leave home. :duh:
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I may shed a tear or two Maty. But I will get to visit them from time to time and that makes me feel better!
Knowing myself it is likely to push me to build a set of NX-Otica's or maybe even NX-Treme's. I have the space and no serious neighbor issues. I really like that tweeter!
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A few thoughts on the sound now that I've spent some time with them.
Keep in mind that I am coming from my Emerald Physic's EP 2.7's That Danny upgrade with new high spec crossovers. That's how I came to be interested in building one of his kits. Right about that time my Dad approached me wanting help putting together a new system and it was the perfect opportunity to try out one of Danny's designs. The EP's are large open baffle full range floor standers with a compression tweeter and a 12" mid-range/mid-bass driver in a coaxial configuration and two 15" woofers per side. Hardly apples to apples.
With that in mind the main differences are in power and dynamics, scale and of course deep bass. There is just no way that the Studio's can compete in those areas. However they hold their own and then some in imaging and transparency. On well recorded music they have an uncanny ability to disappear into the music. That tweeter is really something special! The level of subtle detail is quite remarkable. Now the EP's are very good here also but not quite to the level of the planer tweeter. We watch tv on this system as well and I have found myself distracted from the story at times by the subtle sounds of things in the back round on shows and movies (and even the music). Modern tv sound tracks are very well recorded these days. Every bit as good as most music I find. Anyway I find myself closing my eyes and just listening to all the little sounds even more than with the EP's.
Tonally The Studio's are very seductive as well. They are getting smoother as they break in. I currently have about 50 hours on them. I'm sure there is more improvement to come. They are very addicting to listen to and are very good at low level listening.
I know they were designed for monitoring and near field use (which I have not tried yet) but I am here to tell you that they work beautifully in normal speaker listening use. In my case they are 5 feet from the front wall and about 8 feet apart and 9 feet from the listening sweet spot.(there is about 6 feet to the wall behind the listening position)
These provide a level of sound quality and refinement that is unheard of at this price point. They are beautiful sounding speakers!
The blending of the two drivers is excellent I can not detect any issues in the crossover region. Vocals and horns are very well rendered.
The only slight detraction I have noticed is a slight boxy sound to the upper bass do to the fact that they are indeed box speakers. If I was not used to the open baffle sound I would not likely have noticed it. It is very slight. Just an observation rather than a complaint. These are very dense and solid little boxes.
The bass response is very good and well controlled. It sounds deeper than the spec's led me to believe. In fact is quite satisfying even stand mounted and well out in the room where there is little room gain. I will try them close to the wall soon Maty.
Now of course with small 6" drivers and full range music and sound tracks you do have to be careful with the volume control and keep an eye on the excursion. You can start to hear when it's nearing it's limit. This is where subs will come in and clean up the upper bass and mid's as well as extend the low end and allow for much higher SPL's.
For their size they sound big and full. But they do not sound as large as the big EP's (how could they?) but I am very impressed and I think my dad is in for a very nice surprise as is anyone else that decides to try them.
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Here is a comparison shot.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205802)
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Man, you do beautiful work. As someone that's a big fan of the design, I'm really happy you seem to hear exactly the same qualities about them that make them so impressive to me!
Now, imagine that driver integration, sweet musicality, sheer resolution and overall excellence but scaled up to be able ti image very large, massive, room filling soundstage, with zero box sound and bass that crushes just about everything - that's the NX-Ottica!
Back on topic - you are incredibly nice to build the Monitors for your dad, I'm sure he's going to be extremely happy with them.
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Thanks Tyson! Very nice of you to say. Believe me I am seriously thinking about the NX-Otica's or even the NX-Treme's.
I can now envision how they might sound.
Your description of the Studio's sound was right on. Thanks for sharing!
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With the Super 7s and the Lineforces out of production, the NX-Treme might just be the best speakers in the world. If you have the space and $$, DO IT!!! :lol:
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Very nice job, great review as well. Always good to hear when the wife approves! :D
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Tyson it's nice to know that the best speakers in the world are so affordable! Humm now what can I sell??? :idea: I do have the Vandy's that I need to find a new home for. That may just cover it. :thumb:
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VinceT Thanks and yes it is nice when she is! It's so rare when that happens.
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Alright I am finally finished with this speaker build. I got the grills assembled today and they look good!
Regarding the grills, if I could make one recommendation to anyone else building these it is this: Make the grill frames slightly smaller than the top of the box to account for the thickness of the cloth. I thinned the thickness down from 3/4" to about 11/16" but could have gone down to 5/8" and the width and length could have been made less as well. The cloth added more thickness than I expected. Minor detail but if I had it to do over? It's not bad just not perfect. Also when fitting the grill frames for the mounting clips, drill through the frame with a 1/16" drill bit from the top all the way through into the box. That will give you perfect alignment marks for the clips or magnets. Forstner bits work best for making the mount holes. In my case I needed a 1/4" in the grill and a 3/8" for the box.
Anyway here are the photos I have been promising. Enjoy!
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205963)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205964)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205965)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205966)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205967)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205968)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205969)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205970)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205971)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205972)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205973)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205974)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205977)
This has been a fun project for me! I hope everyone else who builds these has as much fun as I did and feel free to ask any build question you may have. Happy to help. :D
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I'm not sure why my photos always come out so soft and fuzzy looking when I upload them here. I took these with a DSLR and edited them and resized then sharpened them. They look nice and crisp on my screen but get all soft when posting them here. AC must resize them again or something? Before I thought It was because I was using my phone but now I'm not sure.
Any tips?
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Did you ever hook up the sub & run it with the Studio Monitors? Just wondering what kind of integration you were able to achieve.
BTW, you do really beautiful work.
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Tyson that's the next thing to do. I'm now going to start packing up the electronics for transport now that everything is tested and all details for the system have been accounted for and that I have the photos I wanted.
Once that stuff is out of the way I will reconfigure my system with the Monitors and subs and see what they can do in a true full range set up.
Should be fun! Stay tuned.
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Beautiful work, thanks for sharing. Your father's going to love them.
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Amazing work, SonicJoy! They look incredible, and I can only imagine how they sound, & It has really me hyped for when the time comes to build my own!
I hope your father loves them!
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Hobbs Thanks! I'm sure he will love them.
So I have been listening to the the Studio's with my Vandersteen 2wq subs for the last couple days. I have the subs placed just inboard of the speakers on the same plane. That is my preferred position in this room. This is proving to be a great combo! The Studio's having a box lower section blend very well with great box subs it turns out. I have not heard Danny's OB subs yet so I can't speak to that combo but I can say that they also blend excellently with good box subs so they should be very versatile in that regard. Now the Vandy subs are very good music subs! They use 3 down firing 8" drivers slot loaded in a sealed box and use adjustable high pass filters in front of the amps to roll off the lowest frequency's before they get to the main amp/ speakers. They get their signal from the speaker outs of the main amps. The subs internal amps have a matching curve that restores the lows to the sub drivers (that are rolled off by the filters). It's a great system that gives the subs the sonic signature of the main amps and make for excellent integration with the speakers.
This is sounding wonderful and has taken the Studios to a new level and allowed the mids and upper bass to be cleaner and smoother.
Very nice indeed!
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Sooooo, anyone want to place wagers on how long before Sonicjoy orders a full NX-Otica kit? :thumb:
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I'd take the under 14 days! It's all your fault too Tyson.
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I'd take the under 14 days! It's all your fault too Tyson.
:lol:
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We've got em in stock !!
jay
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I'm glad to hear business is booming for you, Danny! But i imagine its not a bad way for peeps practicing social distancing to pass the time, and better enjoy their systems!
But I'm not too surprised by the shortages, but at least things seem to be moving in a positive direction over there, with things finally moving again.
Keep up the great work!
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Tyson you are a bad bad man! :lol: And Jay you are not helping!
I am very tempted to build the NX-Otica's, would really love to get the Extrem's actually.
However!
I just got the Big EP's a few months ago and I think the wife would kill me if I did that so soon, plus we went through a big hassle getting them shipped up here from Texas. (that's another story) And it's not like I don't like the EP's, I do. They are great speakers. I mentioned that Danny upgraded them with his kick ass crossovers and he told me they just may be the best sounding pair of Emerald Physics speakers on the planet. He also gave me some tip's on improving them further. So I am planning to go that rout for a while. I want to see how far I can take them before replacing them. What I do want to build is a pair of H frame servo subs to go with them as the Vandersteen subs are not sensitive enough to match the output of the EP's. Plus I think the subs should be open baffle to best match the OB EP's. I do want to do that fairly soon.
But keep trying guys! LOL!
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Well, we are not too far from you for the NX-Otica flat packs and / or the sub flats if you can't source the 1.5" MDF :thumb:
Can always laminate I guess but what a PITA, did some pairs years ago like that :(
jay
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Jay,
Ya I could take a road trip over a weekend to your place. I'm in the San Juan islands. I would do that just for the scenic trip as well as to save the shipping.
But then I would miss all the fun of building them from scratch. I build stuff from wood for a living so no issue with that. That way I can add my own touches easier. Not sure what I'm going to do yet.
Laminating a one off project would not be that big a PITA. I would make the panels slightly oversize for gluing then trim to final size. That's what I did with the veneered panels of the Studio's. Much easier than trying to fit the edges perfectly. There's a tip for others building these.
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Yeah, that's how I did it back then as well.. just need, or have access to a nice accurate saw which is an issue for some. With the dowels/ddo's used in our sub kits, it makes itreal easy for folks to asemble with little wood working experience but they still get the satisfaction of the DIY hobby.
jay
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Hobbs Thanks! I'm sure he will love them.
So I have been listening to the the Studio's with my Vandersteen 2wq subs for the last couple days. I have the subs placed just inboard of the speakers on the same plane. That is my preferred position in this room. This is proving to be a great combo! The Studio's having a box lower section blend very well with great box subs it turns out. I have not heard Danny's OB subs yet so I can't speak to that combo but I can say that they also blend excellently with good box subs so they should be very versatile in that regard. Now the Vandy subs are very good music subs! They use 3 down firing 8" drivers slot loaded in a sealed box and use adjustable high pass filters in front of the amps to roll off the lowest frequency's before they get to the main amp/ speakers. They get their signal from the speaker outs of the main amps. The subs internal amps have a matching curve that restores the lows to the sub drivers (that are rolled off by the filters). It's a great system that gives the subs the sonic signature of the main amps and make for excellent integration with the speakers.
This is sounding wonderful and has taken the Studios to a new level and allowed the mids and upper bass to be cleaner and smoother.
Very nice indeed!
This is an interesting idea to consider. I own a pair of Rhythmik Audio F8 sealed subwoofers. They only have line level in but I can wire an adapter to connect via speaker level. I had thought of running straight off the preamp to the subwoofers and then putting simple capacitor before the amp for a 6dB filter. This would allow me to run the satellites (I am considering getting the Studio Monitors) off the amp with what is effectively a 12dB filter (electrical + acoustic). This should integrate well with subwoofers. My subwoofers have a built in 12dB or 24dB filters. This would effectively turn them into 6dB or 18dB filters.
I don’t see much harm in using the subwoofers’ subwoofer crossover and level controls to equalize 6dB back into the signal. Maybe Danny can offer opinion.
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I'm no expert on crossover design but it seems to me that the restoration curve needs to raise the lows starting with lowest frequencies being raised the most gradually decreasing as frequency increases to match the curve of the high pass filters and I don't think that's how a subs controls work. But there are many different implementations out there. That would apply to speaker level inputs mainly I think. I'm sure Danny or someone else can answer that better than I.
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If it's matching the roll off curve of the supplied inline filters, I'd guess it likely has some sort of internal dsp doing just that
jay
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I don't think Vandersteen used DSP back when the 2wq subs were first developed. There is no mention of it in any of the documentation. They have been around for a long time.
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doh !!
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Well looks like I am going to be "stuck" with these Studio Monitors for a while longer. With the world melting down dad and I have decided not to have me take his system to his place during this mess. It's too bad because he could be enjoying it while being cooped up at home. Very disappointing! I have just turned him on to Tidal so he has been enjoying that on his old system which is not to shabby anyway.
Everyone stay safe out there and pray this passes quickly.
Cheers!
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Probably a very wise choice unfortunately.
I see this am that our (Canada) Olympic teampulled the plug on Tokyo Again, sad but pretty much necessary :(
As SJ said, stay safe
jay
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Hello,
sonicjoy I am going to receive my nx studio monitors tomorrow and am getting to panels and everything laser cut. I was just wondering how many clamps should I buy and how should I start assembling? Do I need a workbench like yours with holes in em for the clamps or is how should I go about this?
Thank You,
Dhananjeyan Natarajan
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Hello Dhananjeyan.
Glad to hear you are building a set! :D You will love them I am sure.
I would take the front baffle and the plans to whomever is going to cut out the parts and have them make sure that all the parts fit perfectly before leaving. Especially if you do not have any woodworking tools or skills. Start the assembly by dry (test) fitting all the parts before gluing so that you understand completely how it should go together. The top ramp part is the hardest to fit and clamp so plan that out carefully. Refer to my photos at the start of this thread. That should help with the sequence.
I did one side at a time but you could do the whole thing at once just be sure to use a glue with a long working time. I used Titebond 3. It allows more time before setting.
As far as how many clamps? There is a saying in wood working that "you can never have too many clamps" I would say you can get by with 10-12 12 inch clamps and 4- 24 inch clamps. Some of the smaller 6 inch clamps are helpful. I really like the reversible type that can spread as well as clamp. The DeWalt's are my favorites.
Now for those with no woodworking skills or tools I highly recommend buying a flat pack kit from Jay (Captinhemo) he says he should have them ready soon? They come pre-fitted and should be easier to assemble. Jay are you using dowels and/or slots (rabbits) to align parts? I'm sure he will comment on that.
The divider brace should have the inside edges rounded over so a router is needed for that. See my photo's.
Good luck and ask any other questions you may have.
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And no you do not need a holy bench.
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And no you do not need a holy bench.
I wonder if you might mean a holey bench :o
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It's kind of a play on words. :wink:
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We're looking at a couple different options with regards to dowels/dado's/rabbets .
There is still a couple things ahead of these that we need to get done, almost there though.
jay
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We'll see if you can pull a rabbet out of your hat... to continue the play on words theme. 8)
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We're looking at a couple different options with regards to dowels/dado's/rabbets .
There is still a couple things ahead of these that we need to get done, almost there though.
jay
Glad to hear progress is being made! I recently order myself a Sprout 100, so it'll probably be summer once I'm ready to order the kit and a flatpack to assemble them.
Keep up the great work!
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Thanks for the advice. About to get started in a couple of days. how big should the crossover board be?
Thank You,
Dhananjeyan
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We always cut the Encore boards at 5.5" x 5" Studio monitor will be similar in size, you should have no issues fitting them on that size board .
The 5" width fits nicely between the no-rez coverd side panels, if you want it snugger, make the board say 5.125" wide
jay
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I made them 5" wide by 8" long. 5 is the max width I would go. If anything I would make them 4 7/8" It would be easier to slide them in. The Norez is very grippy and it was hard to slide them in because it was a tight fit. Check my photos for layout of components.
Dhananjeyan how are you planning to finish them?
One other thing, the top of the box the ramp part is made of 1/2" MDF not 3/4" like the rest of the box. Rather than buy 1/2" I just ran it through my thickness planer to remove 1/4 inch.
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I have been going back and adding construction tips (look for the Edits:) to the photo sections of the thread to help those who are building their own. So keep checking back for more.
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Hello,
thank you for the reply. I plan on finishing the MDF by applying a polyurethane sealer and then painting it white on top of that. Yeah, I made sure to get the ramp and the other small piece the ramp connects to in 1/2 inch MDF.
Thank You,
Dhananjeyan
Natarajan
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Hello everyone,
i have recieved my nx studio kit but one of the drivers rubber membrane "the one connecting the diaphram to the plastic" looks wonky. should i be worried? the other driver looks perfectly normal.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=206745)
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The material utilized in this transducer is to reduce resonance. The material can be trusted.
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The material utilized in this transducer is to reduce resonance. The material can be trusted.
im not talking about the plastic framme but the rubber between the diaphram and the plastic case it looks uneven and wonky but every picture i see online and on my other driver it is even?
Thank You
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Hi Dhananjeyan,
It's difficult to tell in the photo but does it appear to be coming loose? That piece is an extension of the rubber surround and is glued to the frame. If it's coming unglued I would contact Danny and have him replace it or you can try gluing it yourself. If it is coming loose then it is a factory defect.
Please post photos of your speakers during the build and when finished. Would love to see them. :D
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Thanks Tyson! I am hoping I will like them. Danny told me not to be surprised if I like them better than the Emerald Physics. That would be a surprise because I love the sound of the EP's Best speakers I have owned.
It will be interesting to hear the difference. The NX-Studio has open baffle tweeter but not mid range and the EP's have open baffle mid and bass but not the tweeters. Looking forward to the comparison. Your impressions of these are one of the main reasons I decided to try them.
I'd like to offer up a blunt comparison between the NX-Studios and other speakers I have. I own a pair a Focal Electra 1038be2. Speakers that I once regarded as among the best sounding speakers one could purchase for under $15k. The NX-Studios absolutely steamroll them in pretty much every category, except bass obviously (tower vs monitor).
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mkrawcz,
Thanks for your observations. I looked up those Focal's and they are highly rated.
I'm starting to see a pattern here. It's becoming clear that many (maybe most) speaker manufacturers building to price points put more emphasis on cosmetics and fancy cabinet's than on using high quality parts and sound design. Those Focal's seem to be a good example of that. Though I have not heard them but have seen them around for years.
Also AC member Maty has been posting photos of several popular speakers crossovers and it's quite telling that most use pretty cheap parts which supports this notion.
Even my Emerald Physics EP 2.7's which the current version of retails for $10,000. use pretty cheap parts in the crossovers. Danny made new ones for mine so I didn't get to see the originals but I take his word for it. They sound great but still are not quite as smooth and the Studio's. And that's born out in the spectral decay plots of both speakers. In fact I keep coming back to the word "smooth" when thinking about the overall sound of the Studio's. There are no area's that jump out at you. Everything is even and images are very stable, it's quite remarkable! I swear I hear sounds behind me quite often. It seems like that illusion is increasing as they continue to break in. I probably have 300 hours on them now or more.
How many hours do you have on yours?
I am envious of your PS Audio BHK amps. Out of my price range but I'm sure they take the Studio's to an even higher level than what I am hearing with my Emerald Physics 100.2 SE pair running as mono blocks fed by a Wyred 4 Sound STPre with stage 2 factory upgrades. It's a hybrid passive/active preamp with a resistor ladder volume control. It's likely better than the EP amps.
Or even the Rogue Pharaoh integrated that will be powering them in my dads new system. It has a tube preamp section with class D Hypex output section. Surprisingly the two systems sound remarkably similar. I get a slight edge in imaging and sound stage depth with my system likely because of the use of mono amps (better separation). but not as big a difference as I expected. That Rogue is a nice unit!
I have been a fan of Vandersteen speakers for years. I still have my 3a Signature's and pair of 2wq sub's. The sub's are currently supporting the NX-Studio's and is a fantastic combo! Vandersteen's have always been noted for being a great value as they use high quality parts and don't put lot's of expensive bling on the cabinet's.
I'm glad you are liking the Studio's. The more I listen to them the more I'm am in awe of them. Just spectacular!
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Y'all are killing me.. haha
But it's only making me more excited for what's to come when I get to building my own in the coming months once things get to be less volatile, and supply chains return to normal.
Esp since I'm going from a pair of active Samson RXA5s monitos that I got for $100ea. so I don't really know what I'm missing. But, pairing the NX-Studios with a Sprout 100, is probably going to ruin me for a long time... (Or at least until I build myself a pair of Oticas Haha)
That doesn't even include the $40 Logitech Z4 2.1 setup I've used for probably 12+ years now.. haha
But once this is all said & done, I know I will be handsomely rewarded for my patience!
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But once this is all said & done, I know I will be handsomely rewarded for my patience!
That you will!! :thumb:
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So Hobbs if you are not used to good imaging and sound staging due to your systems limitations here is an interesting story and maybe something to keep in mind.
There was a post on the AudioGon forum awhile back and a guy had just got a system that had good imaging for the first time. He thought something was wrong with his new setup because the sound was no longer all connected together and coming from the speakers and seemed to be coming from all over the place. After some back and forth with others it turns out he was hearing imaging for the first time. He was asking for advice on how to put the music back together. I got a good laugh at that!
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Thats wild! I'd probably be in the same shoes if i hadn't taken steps to learn first!
Luckily, I do at least understand the concepts behind soundstage & imaging, & thankfully my current monitors do a pretty decent, even crammed up against the walls on either side of a 32" display thanks to the added clarity of folded ribbon/AMT tweeters, it was a huge step up over my Logitech setup which didn't do more than stereo separation, but is good enough for background music, and still better than most modern sound bars, if I'm honest.
And having a pair of Sennheiser HD 6XXs have done a pretty good job of allowing me to understand how imaging works, esp when im in the dark.
Listening to Led Zepplin's live recording of "No Quarter" late one night, was my first real experience with hearing really good imaging in a recording. I could hear the band members move about the stage as if i was standing between the drums and lead microphone.
It definitely was a really freaky, almost out-of-body, experience the first time I became aware of it. Its really what, sparked my journey deeper into hi-fi beyond just *decent* sound, it makes the experience a joy to get lost in.
My initial look into speakers lead me to the RP600M as my best option, thanks to Steve Guttenberg. And then I found Ron at NRD, shortly before Danny began his mods of the RP600Ms, starting me on a whole nother rabbit hole into Danny, GR-Research and speakers in general.. haha
So here I am now, getting my ducks in a row, pouring through build logs, planning, and saving up. and hearing y'all praise them up and down is killing me, but its just building my anticipation!
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im not talking about the plastic framme but the rubber between the diaphram and the plastic case it looks uneven and wonky but every picture i see online and on my other driver it is even?
Thank You
It was tested before going out, but I did not notice the visual issue. If it bothers you send it back and I'll swap it for another one.
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I'd like to offer up a blunt comparison between the NX-Studios and other speakers I have. I own a pair a Focal Electra 1038be2. Speakers that I once regarded as among the best sounding speakers one could purchase for under $15k. The NX-Studios absolutely steamroll them in pretty much every category, except bass obviously (tower vs monitor).
Thanks. :thumb:
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I'd like to offer up a blunt comparison between the NX-Studios and other speakers I have. I own a pair a Focal Electra 1038be2. Speakers that I once regarded as among the best sounding speakers one could purchase for under $15k. The NX-Studios absolutely steamroll them in pretty much every category, except bass obviously (tower vs monitor).
Wow! :thumb: :thumb:
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Is anyone developing a full flat-pack kit for the monitors?
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I'd like to offer up a blunt comparison between the NX-Studios and other speakers I have. I own a pair a Focal Electra 1038be2. Speakers that I once regarded as among the best sounding speakers one could purchase for under $15k. The NX-Studios absolutely steamroll them in pretty much every category, except bass obviously (tower vs monitor).
Yep, when I called them the best bookshelf speakers in the world right now, I was NOT kidding :D.
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Is anyone developing a full flat-pack kit for the monitors?
+1
assembled in Canada would be nice too. :D
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Jay (Captainhemo) said he will be getting to them soon. He has a couple others he is trying to get finished first.
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It was tested before going out, but I did not notice the visual issue. If it bothers you send it back and I'll swap it for another one.
Yeah I will I remember emailing this to you and you said the same thing I had posted this around the same time. I am currently not allowed to receive anything else through the mail that is why I am not doing it at the moment but I will as soon as this whole coronavirus situation ends.
thank you,
Dhananjeyan
Natarajan
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Hi Dhananjeyan,
It's difficult to tell in the photo but does it appear to be coming loose? That piece is an extension of the rubber surround and is glued to the frame. If it's coming unglued I would contact Danny and have him replace it or you can try gluing it yourself. If it is coming loose then it is a factory defect.
Please post photos of your speakers during the build and when finished. Would love to see them. :D
Hello,
I have contacted Danny about this he said it shouldn't be an issue but if it visually bothers me he will replace it. I will probably get it replaced but can't atm because of coronavirus. I will defantely post photos when i am done with building these i am about to get started on one of them.
Thank You,
Dhananjeyan
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hello sonicjoy may I ask how you made sure all of the angles on the pieces when glueing were exact? also how precisely did all the pieces align up with the front baffle? were they exact or was there a slight dip or extension past the front baffle?
Thank You,
Dhananjeyan
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I started with the baffle, one side and the bottom. Those 3 parts will be easy to get squared up. Just align the edges carefully. Once that section is dry you can add the back. Again align the edges and clamp it up. After that is dry then you can fit the 2 top ramp pieces. Refer back to my photos to see how I did it. Once that part is done you can glue the other side on. You can use a square (tool) or one of your other parts to check for squareness.
I made sure all the parts fit perfectly before assembly but I made them myself so I had control over that. Do test fit the parts to see how they fit. You can clamp them together dry to see how it all fits. If there are edges that stick out proud of the others a bit you can use a sander or if you don't have one you can get some sandpaper and a block of wood and make a sanding block with some 100 grit or maybe 80 grit paper to sand them flush. It is normal to have to do this when building boxes and things. (After the box is assembled of course.)
A tip for clamping: Get a couple of blocks like scraps of 2x4 maybe 12" long and put them under the side panel to elevate it off the work surface so you can have room for the clamps. Or if you have saw horses they work good also. In my case I used my table with the holes but the blocks will allow you to do the same thing. Again check my photos.
Good luck and have fun! You can do it.
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I placed an order for the Studio Monitor kit yesterday and will use your thread as a sort of guide. You've inspired me to build these and look forward to the end result!
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Hey great news Tomy2Tone! I'm sure you will enjoy them and hopefully the build process as well.
Do you have a shop to work in? Woodworking experience?
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I was planning to order mine today or Monday, but gotta love the timing for finding out a routine repair is actually major front end overhaul..
So I it's guess back to waiting til summer for meee! :D
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Hey great news Tomy2Tone! I'm sure you will enjoy them and hopefully the build process as well.
Do you have a shop to work in? Woodworking experience?
I work with a guy who has a shop and can make all the cuts for me and clamp everything together. I will do the finishing and at the moment am thinking of doing a walnut cabinet with light walnut stain and white front baffle. I remember you saying you went back and forth on other options for yours, what other finishes did you consider? Yours turned out so good I'm tempted to just do the same but kinda want to do something different.
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I thought about all black as the easiest rout but my dad didn't want black. Also thought about maple veneer with black baffle and grill. You could do a white grill to go with the white baffle. All kinds of color options. Also thought about veneering the whole thing but doing the round edges of the baffle was more work than I wanted to do. Black with wood sides is a classic look that works well so that's why I decided to go that way.
One idea that I like is one that Jay (Captainhemo) and I talked about is to make the side panels and the back panel the same height as the baffle and then recess the grill into the top so that when viewed from the side you don't see the edge of the grill, you only see it from the top. That would be a cleaner look I think. He is thinking of making some that way. Maybe the flat pack kits will end up being done that way.
That is the beauty of DYI, each person can do something a little different and unique.
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I was planning to order mine today or Monday, but gotta love the timing for finding out a routine repair is actually major front end overhaul..
So I it's guess back to waiting til summer for meee! :D
I assume you mean on your car? Damn! Don't you hate when life gets in the way of your hobbies? Did you get your PS Audio Sprout yet?
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Yeahhh.. lol Of all the times it could have happened, at least it came after I got my stimulus check. Haha
But it'll help me buy some time to save up cash & buy a better one in the future.
Not yet, it'll be arriving tomorrow tho! The NJ warehouse was running a skeleton crew, so it took 3 weeks to finally ship.
In the meantime, ill try it out with my dads Speakers & current monitors to see how it compares to my Grace SDAC/Amp.
Might also work towards getting the tools ill need, just depends on the final cost of the flatpack..
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One idea that I like is one that Jay (Captainhemo) and I talked about is to make the side panels and the back panel the same height as the baffle and then recess the grill into the top so that when viewed from the side you don't see the edge of the grill, you only see it from the top. That would be a cleaner look I think. He is thinking of making some that way. Maybe the flat pack kits will end up being done that way.
That is the beauty of DYI, each person can do something a little different and unique.
Yes, that is how we designed them originally and is the plan for flat packs... if guys wanted to have the grills show at the top, they cold always slice off the rabbet (grill recess) cut around the top of the panels.
jay
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If you're going to paint the front of the speaker white, I'd suggest making the grill cloth white too.
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I'd vote for lighter gray over white, eap something with an "Alcantara" style texture would work really nicely, tbh.
My plan is currently matte black/walnut. With a small section of grill cloth between the tweeter and waveguide.
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The new Elac Debut Reference cabinets is the look I kinda have in mind depending on what wood I go with. I will have the rest of the cabinet walls the same height as the baffle.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=207365)
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Hell All,
I'm new too AudioCircle, just recently learned about GR Research and the NX Studio Speakers.
Sonicjoy's NX Studio's look great and I bet they sound even better!
I'm interested in the NX Studio's. Any recommendations on Integrated Amp, or AMP & DAC to pair with these for a 12’X12’ home office?
Amps and DAC’s I've looked into that have a small footprint for a desktop:
DAC - RME ADI 2 Dac FS, or Mytek Brooklyn DAC
AMP - Mytek Brooklyn Amp or the XTZ Edge A2-300 power amp
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I got myself a PS-Audio Sprout 100 that will eventually be used for my NX-Studios once the time comes to build them. And even tho I've only used it for my Sennheiser HD6XX and $200 pair of powered Samson RXA5 monitors, I'm super happy with it. It beats out everything I've tried thus far. (Its honestly not been much outside of consumer/budget gear) for its simplicity & ease of use, I definitely recommend it!
My previous DAC/Amp was previously the Grace Designs DAC/amp combo, and I thought it was great for $200. Leagues better than my PC or phone's integrated solutions for sure. The Sprout takes things up to a whole nother level, esp in clarity & soundstage. Plus it's all in one box. Separates do often have their own advantages and faults, depending on your preferences towards cable & space management.
My room is 10'x12' so im not to far off from your room size as well.
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Hi PZ.
I can't offer an amp recommendation other than to get the best quality you can. The Studio's will never likely be the limiting factor in your system, they are that good. You might consider a small tube integrated amp as well. There are many good ones out there. Even low power ones will work fine in the near field listening situation of a desk top.
Also I hope you have a very large desk as these are not small speakers. If you can raise them up off the desk top it will help as will moving them away from the wall as far as possible. Moving them away from the room boundaries (including desk top/floor) will improve imaging, sound stage and tonal performance. (That goes for most speakers.) I tried them on the floor tilted up and myself sitting on the floor in a near field set up and did not like what that did to the upper bass tonality. I get the best performance using them in a more traditional setting on stands well out into the room like in my photos earlier in this thread.
This is not to say that they won't be good on the desk top it's just to say that they will be at their best on stands in a more traditional listening setup.
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Hobbsmeerkat:
Thanks for your input, I'll look into the PS-Audio Sprout 100.
I reached out to Dan @ GR and he also got me interested in the chip amp. Anybody using this?
The Mytek Brooklyn Amp I mentioned Ive been looking at is 8 Ohm - dual mono 2 x 250 W. Is there any benefit to this many watts? or am I looking at diminishing returns?
https://mytekdigital.com/professional/products/brooklyn-amp/
Sonicjoy:
I agree with your recommendation, "get the best quality Amp you can."
My desk is large, but I'm sure the NX Studio's will be overboard.
Where can I find drawings with dimensions?
Any other speakers I should consider for this application?
Originally I was set on Keff LS50 or SVS Ulta's but when I found out about GR Research I changed course.
I like the idea of having the best sounding speakers and flexibility to use in other applications.
Approximately how much time did you put into building the NX Studio's?
Did you add any upgrades?
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I decided to pull the trigger and ordered the Studio Monitor kit from Danny. If mine turnout half as nice as Sonicjoy's, I'll be happy!!
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I decided to pull the trigger and ordered the Studio Monitor kit from Danny. If mine turnout half as nice as Sonicjoy's, I'll be happy!!
+1
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The monitors are 15.5 inches deep, 18 inches tall and 8.5 inches wide. They weigh about 30 lbs each.
As far as up grades all that is earlier in this thread. The copper bypass caps are now standard in the kits. The kit come with the cabinet plans.
This is the speaker Danny has for desk top use: http://gr-research.com/lgk10kit.aspx (http://gr-research.com/lgk10kit.aspx)
Congratulations on ordering the kit! :thumb:
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Damn! Don't you hate when life gets in the way of your hobbies?
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Yeahhh it suuucks rn.. but I'll build these speakers yet! :thumb:
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Don't wish to hijack but where is this kit on GR-Research website? Looks very interesting for my Den :wink:
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Hi Michael.
They are not on the website yet. Several of his designs are not on there. Danny says he is working on a new web site (in your spare time right Danny? :wink:) Give him a call and he will fix you up.
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It's not on the web site. You have to email or call grs
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Hey, thanks guys. Appreciate that. :thumb:
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Hi Michael.
They are not on the website yet. Several of his designs are not on there. Danny says he is working on a new web site (in your spare time right Danny? :wink:) Give him a call and he will fix you up.
I have a guy working on it.
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That's great Danny! One thing I personally would like to see on it is a listing of all the speaker designs past and present that you have made. Maybe an archive's page of older models with a photo of each just so we can have a reference of what is out there. I keep coming across models that I have not seen before popping up in threads.
Looking forward to seeing it.
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Not everything is here but it is a start
http://gr-research.com/archivedmodels.aspx
jay
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Thanks Jay. I haven't seen that before either. Should be a sticky.
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Well it's finally time for me to say goodbye to these wonderful speakers. :cry: I'm leaving tomorrow morning to deliver my dads new system to him. Everything is all packed up and ready to go.
This has been a very enjoyable build and an eye opening experience for me. I would not have believed that a DYI speaker kit could be a true world class loudspeakers. I am now a believer!
Here are a couple of parting shots:
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=208186)
This is how I was using them for most of the time I had them in my system, with the Vandersteen subs. A very nice combo!
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=208187)
Here are the big EP's ready to go back in their place.(without the subs)
To anyone thinking about building these. You will not be disappointed! Highly recommended! :thumb:
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Well it's finally time for me to say goodbye to these wonderful speakers. :cry: I'm leaving tomorrow morning to deliver my dads new system to him. Everything is all packed up and ready to go.
This has been a very enjoyable build and an eye opening experience for me. I would not have believed that a DYI speaker kit could be a true world class loudspeakers. I am now a believer!
Here are a couple of parting shots:
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=208186)
This is how I was using them for most of the time I had them in my system, with the Vandersteen subs. A very nice combo!
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=208187)
Here are the big EP's ready to go back in their place.(without the subs)
To anyone thinking about building these. You will not be disappointed! Highly recommended! :thumb:
Thank You Sonicjoy!
This was a fantastic thread to read. Awesome information.
Do you think 3 of these across the front would also be a good HT solution as well? Or would these require a different MTM type center?
What's the cost on this kit?
Thanks!
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Glad you enjoyed it. :D
This is a home theater, just a two channel theater. There is a motorized screen that drops down. See photo earlier in the thread. I do not need or want surround sound. The imaging with really good equipment is so good that I don't miss surround sound. Been there done that. It's a lot of extra cost and complexity that I just don't want. That said I can not say weather they would make good center channel speakers as I have not tried it. Maybe Danny can answer that.
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Glad you enjoyed it. :D
This is a home theater, just a two channel theater. There is a motorized screen that drops down. See photo earlier in the thread. I do not need or want surround sound. The imaging with really good equipment is so good that I don't miss surround sound. Been there done that. It's a lot of extra cost and complexity that I just don't want. That said I can not say weather they would make good center channel speakers as I have not tried it. Maybe Danny can answer that.
I completely understand! I feel the same way sometimes. :green:
I saw in another thread just now, the Kit price. These might be the way to go once I find out if a 3rd one can be bought on its own and if it would work as a center channel.
I've always read that the ideal center channel would be identical to the mains, so if that holds true the yea, these might be the ticket.
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When it comes to the center channel, why not use the 16ohm M165NQ/16 Woofers on either side of the OB tweeter?
Of course it would require a custom horizontal front baffle, but the idea sounds plausible. Kinda like a smaller 2-way X-Voce?
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I'm sure Danny will sell you whatever you want. This is DYI after all. You could buy five and do a whole surround sound set up. The Studio Monitors image so well especially when pulled out into the room 3 feet or more that the imaging regularly trips me out! I hear sounds behind me quite often and sounds seem to be coming from outside the house. Mainly talking about TV watching and movies. The phantom center image follows the action back and forth very convincingly, better than a center speaker more often than not.
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I'm sure Danny will sell you whatever you want. This is DYI after all. You could buy five and do a whole surround sound set up. The Studio Monitors image so well especially when pulled out into the room 3 feet or more that the imaging regularly trips me out! I hear sounds behind me quite often and sounds seem to be coming from outside the house. Mainly talking about TV watching and movies. The phantom center image follows the action back and forth very convincingly, better than a center speaker more often than not.
I find this is also the case with my NX-Otica MTMs and a phantom center. If the person speaking is in the center of the screen, the sound seems to come from the center, if they are off to the left or right the sound moves with them. I like this a lot. It is more like watching a play instead of a movie.
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... If you can raise them up off the desk top it will help as will moving them away from the wall as far as possible. Moving them away from the room boundaries (including desk top/floor) will improve imaging, sound stage and tonal performance. (That goes for most speakers.)
If one has not experienced nearfield listening (with the proper type of speakers), I can assure that they should expect a surprise. And it’s a no-cost experiment. If you do not like it, you can reverse it with no problem at all. IMO really worth trying. I have been converted... -)))
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+1
+2
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I can always sell just one if you guys want to use them as your front mains in a theater system.
They can easily be used in that role.
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When it comes to the center channel, why not use the 16ohm M165NQ/16 Woofers on either side of the OB tweeter?
Of course it would require a custom horizontal front baffle, but the idea sounds plausible. Kinda like a smaller 2-way X-Voce?
I couldn't help myself, and sketched up a rough idea for a center channel.. :P
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=208322)
I don't know if the sealed woofers need to be separated or if they can be part of a single sealed unit, but it should be pretty easy to make it work either way?
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Why not use 4 🤓
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Inquiry sent!
I was initially interested in the A/V2s from the web site, but I'm gathering from the discussion here that these are far superior.
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I have NX Studios on order and initially plan to have them setup in my office without a sub or two...
For future planning anyone have recommendations on the best way to add Danny's servo subs to my NX Studio rig setup?
I've read and heard of different recommendations how to best send signal to a sub and am starting to get confused.
1. If I were to add 1 or 2 subs, which of the GR Research servo subs do you guys recommend to pair with the NX Studios?
2. I was planning on using XLR’s from DAC to the Amp, how should I go about sending signal to the subs and speakers?
- Anyone have pics of their setup using DAC as preamp?
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=208614)
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I have NX Studios on order and initially plan to have them setup in my office without a sub or two...
For future planning anyone have recommendations on the best way to add Danny's servo subs to my NX Studio rig setup?
I've read and heard of different recommendations how to best send signal to a sub and am starting to get confused.
1. If I were to add 1 or 2 subs, which of the GR Research servo subs do you guys recommend to pair with the NX Studios?
2. I was planning on using XLR’s from DAC to the Amp, how should I go about sending signal to the subs and speakers?
- Anyone have pics of their setup using DAC as preamp?
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=208614)
When ordering the subs, I'd get the A370XLR3 amps. That way you can run the XLR cables from the DAC to a spliter/inline filter then run one pair of XLR cables from the splitter/filter to the amp for the Studio Monitors and a second pair of of XLR cables from the splitter (not through a filter) to the A370XLR3's XLR inputs. This will keep the gain the same to all amps and have the best noise control.
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Since you have dual analog outputs on your DAC, you can run the XLR cables to your main amp and RCA cables to the sub amps.
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mlundy57 and Tyson, Thank you for your feedback. Your recommendations are both different but in line with what Ive come across.
I initially planned on setup similar to what Tyson is recommending.
"Since you have dual analog outputs on your DAC, you can run the XLR cables to your main amp and RCA cables to the sub amps."
After watching reviews on how to "properly" connect REL / SVS subs I started to think connecting from the RCA analog output on the Dac to the sub would not be ideal. My understanding of their guidance was to connect from Dac / Preamp to Amp and then send high / full signal directly to the sub. https://www.youtube.com/redirect?q=https%3A%2F%2Frel.net%2Fhow-to-connect-my-rel%2F&redir_token=qTi_WfamvBX6y9bgoJ50qCe-mI18MTU4OTA4MzAyN0AxNTg4OTk2NjI3&event=video_description&v=MiF5_F3e0Ww
Thoughts? Ideas?
Didn't mean to derail NX Studio build thread, but the plan is to integrate Studio Monitors into the system.
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...
After watching reviews on how to "properly" connect REL / SVS subs I started to think connecting from the RCA analog output on the Dac to the sub would not be ideal. My understanding of their guidance was to connect from Dac / Preamp to Amp and then send high / full signal directly to the sub. https://www.youtube.com/redirect?q=https%3A%2F%2Frel.net%2Fhow-to-connect-my-rel%2F&redir_token=qTi_WfamvBX6y9bgoJ50qCe-mI18MTU4OTA4MzAyN0AxNTg4OTk2NjI3&event=video_description&v=MiF5_F3e0Ww
Thoughts? Ideas?
Didn't mean to derail NX Studio build thread, but the plan is to integrate Studio Monitors into the system.
As a matter of fact, I have the same dilemma about the OB dual driver H-frame servo sub, that I am going to build, to accompany my Falcon LS3/5a. Low level or high level output connections? Technically I can accommodate both. But perhaps we should take that in a separate thread, because we are unwillingly hijacking the OP’s thread. Apologies!
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I use an integrated amp with a RCA preamp out option. I bought budget audio quest wire and do long RCA runs (20’) to the PEQ 370 plate amps. Works perfectly, no noise, auto turn on issues etc. the Rythmik amps are indeed well engineered. I have not had the same success with PE plate amps.. :roll:
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Line level inputs sound best to me - its what I use on my dual OB subs.
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Hi all,
I am new around here and unable to search yet, so I was wondering how much the NX Studio's are.
I am thinking of maybe trying to 3D print the boxes for them as well. Anyone ever try it?
Thanks,
Jody
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I believe they run for $850 for the kit including the front panel.
As for 3D printing, its definitely an option, just make sure you have a way to add density to the cabinet walls, wether it's sand, steel shot, or a variety of dense objects to help aid in reducing cabinet resonance on top of lining it with Norez
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I am new around here and unable to search yet, so I was wondering how much the NX Studio's are.
They are $899. There was a $50 component upgrade option (hence the aforementioned $849 price), but the upgrade is now standard at the new price.
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Great, thank you.
You can print with pretty dense in-fill, and I was thinking of maybe printing 1" thick walls, so that should handle resonances nicely, especially with the No Rez.
Never know until you try.
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Anyone know of a cabinet builder in the Midwest? I'm thinking of getting the kit, but without a flat pack don't believe I have the skill set to build something like Sonicjoy did. I know Mike L is an option as well and have reached out, but Danny suggested posting here as well. Thanks!
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Thought I would share some photos of my first build still in progress.
NX Studio Monitor parts arrived in two boxes.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=210658)
One of the baffles had some slight damage from shipping
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=210659)
Used some wood glue to fill the crack and clamped it down.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=210660)
Used 1/4" spiral router bit to cut radius for brace.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=210661)
Made straight cuts with table saw, and used 3/8" round over router bit for exposed edges.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=210662)
Used miter saw for 18.25 angle cuts for the ramp.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=210663)
Dry fit cabinets.
Haven't decided if I want to run the sides even with the top of the baffle and make an insert grill. (Without changing opening dimensions)
or Follow the original plans.
- Any thoughts or ideas?
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=210664)
The plan is to finish the cabinets all black.
Looking to do something similar to Danny's Super Mini's and OB Subs.
They're not to shiny and not to dull. Kind of look like they may have some kind of texture?
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=210667)
- Open to any thoughts or ideas on primer, epoxy / wood filler for seems, and paint?
Danny, Sonicjoy, and Captainhemo, Thank you for all your help with my first build.
Hope to get these completed soon and post some more pics.
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They're not to shiny and not to dull. Kind of look like they may have some kind of texture?
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=210667)
- Open to any thoughts or ideas on primer, epoxy / wood filler for seems, and paint?
I believe that's Duratex.
Wood filler/spackle/bondo should be just fine for filling in any small gaps before painting. Start with a thick coat of duratex, with later coats being lightly thinned out with water for a smoother finish.
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Hi all,
I am new around here and unable to search yet, so I was wondering how much the NX Studio's are.
I am thinking of maybe trying to 3D print the boxes for them as well. Anyone ever try it?
Thanks,
Jody
Hello Jody and welcome!
I have not heard of anyone printing speaker boxes. The problem I see is the unknown sound quality of the printed material. MDF is a known quantity. The Speakers were designed and voiced for MDF. The material used is part of the design and does effect the sound. I would not do it unless you are willing to make a set of each to compare. If you do then please let us know how it goes.
Good luck!
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Dry fit cabinets.
Haven't decided if I want to run the sides even with the top of the baffle and make an insert grill. (Without changing opening dimensions)
or Follow the original plans.
- Any thoughts or ideas?
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=210664)
How would you support the inserted grill?
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Thinking about 3/8” rabbet cut into the inside edge of sides, and have the long parts of the grill only 1/2”. While dry fitting parts I realized getting the grill in and out would be cumbersome without some kind of knob / pull. So I decided to cut the back down 3/4” from the sides (original design dimensions) and found that the grill can easily be removed by grabbing it from the back of the speaker and lifting up without any pulls or knobs.
I’ll have enough MDF cut up to make two or three pairs of cabinets since I’ve been playing around with this mock up.
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Sounds like a great plan! Can't wait to see it.
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Thinking about 3/8” rabbet cut into the inside edge of sides, and have the long parts of the grill only 1/2”. While dry fitting parts I realized getting the grill in and out would be cumbersome without some kind of knob / pull. So I decided to cut the back down 3/4” from the sides (original design dimensions) and found that the grill can easily be removed by grabbing it from the back of the speaker and lifting up without any pulls or knobs.
Nice idea!
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You can see 3/4” cut down Of back part in this pic. Original design vs side walls to the top.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=210692)
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Another option would be to put a magnet in the grill frame then you could use any piece of ferrous metal to remove the grill.
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Another option would be to put a magnet in the grill frame then you could use any piece of ferrous metal to remove the grill.
That's a really clever idea Mike. A grill key, so to speak. Hope you don't mind me sticking that in my idea bank for future use...
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That's a really clever idea Mike. A grill key, so to speak. Hope you don't mind me sticking that in my idea bank for future use...
Not in the least. I’ve borrowed my fair share of ideas around here. Besides, that’s what this forum is all about :thumb:
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(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=210707)
Attached is my crossover thus far for NX studio.
I have wire nuts at the ends where I will attach wires and tube connectors.
(This is to help me remember tube connectors)
Does this look correct so far?
Having trouble finishing off the rest of it.
From pics in post threads it looks like Sonicjoy and Michaelhifi had different capacitors and I can't tell from blurry pics what goes where.
Should the 7ohm resistor go in parallel with the capacitor?
or should it go perpendicular to capacitor?
I have all parts in reading orientation from left to right, is this correct?
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Study these carefully.
I see that the copper bypass cap you have is different in that the wires come out each end instead of the same end as mine do.
Just have to connect them the same as mine, on either side of the white sonicap at the top of the photo.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=210717)
Upper left says positive input. Upper right says tweeter neg.
Lower left says woofer pos. Center tape says neg. input/woofer neg./tweeter pos. (all 3 connect together)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=210718)
You can see the wires going to the inputs and drivers here. The red and white wires on the right going into the box go to the tube connectors.
the other two to the tweeter and the lower ones can be seen going to the woofer.
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Anyone know of a cabinet builder in the Midwest? I'm thinking of getting the kit, but without a flat pack don't believe I have the skill set to build something like Sonicjoy did. I know Mike L is an option as well and have reached out, but Danny suggested posting here as well. Thanks!
We will have full flat packs soon
PZ, try not to post values of cros over components, I know that can be difficult at times when asking questions.
I have not built out a pair of these yet but know that the resistor you are talking about will be in series wit the high pass cap ( in front of it).... should be shown pretty clearly on the schematic...
jay
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Hi guys,
Thanks to Danny for linking me up to the forum and the NX studio thread. The NX studio's seem to go beyond just studio monitors. I assume that they are good as an upgrade to the Encore's for straight stereo listening? The enclosures look first rate.
My budget is tight so I am looking at the Encores for now but will keep this thread handy for when the upgrade itch needs to be scratched.
Great to be here. :D
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Welcome!
The NX-Studio's are Danny's top of the line book shelf loudspeaker and is one of the very best speakers in its class. Member Tyson who is an equipment reviewer and is featured in some of Danny's videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFukgjWclr4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFukgjWclr4) thinks they may just be the best speaker in it's class in the world. That of course is hard to know for sure. What that means is that they are not simply a good value for the money which they surely are but that they can and should be used with very the best equipment you can afford. If you just want something to use with budget equipment then it would be wasting their capabilities. However if you think you will want to keep improving your equipment over time know that they will only keep sounding better as you get better electronics and source's. They will not likely ever be the weak link.
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(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=210707)
Attached is my crossover thus far for NX studio.
I have wire nuts at the ends where I will attach wires and tube connectors.
(This is to help me remember tube connectors)
Does this look correct so far?
Having trouble finishing off the rest of it.
From pics in post threads it looks like Sonicjoy and Michaelhifi had different capacitors and I can't tell from blurry pics what goes where.
Should the 7ohm resistor go in parallel with the capacitor?
or should it go perpendicular to capacitor?
I have all parts in reading orientation from left to right, is this correct?
I think Sonicjoy's caps and mine are the same. The leads exit out at one end of the cap in Sonicjoy's and both ends on mine.
It might be prudent to NOT use my photo's as I never got confirmation that my x-overs are/were built correctly, only that I had located my lost schematic and it seemed correct. That and the speakers played well until a woofer stopped woofing.
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Question
Are the dimensions still the same as the test box when first introduced to the public?
"The test boxes are 18" tall, 8.5" wide and 14.5" deep."
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They are 18" tall 8.5" wide and 15.5" deep.
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Ok here is the crossover part.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205737)
This was the mock up I did and asked Danny to confirm that it looked correct and he did. Thanks Danny!
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205738)
Here are the parts ready to go. For details on crossover assembly read the Sticky "Crossover 101" Thread.
Edit: Make the crossover board 4 7/8 inches by 8 inches. Once you have the locations for the zip ties marked, stack them and drill both at the same time so they are the same.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205739)
Here they are ready to be hooked up.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205740)
The input wires installed with the tube connectors.
Edit: Be sure to review the tube connector Sticky thread to be sure you install them correctly.
Now I will caution others to be careful with your wire lengths as there is just enough length included in the kit. Just!
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205741)
All connections made and ready to install the crossovers and woofer. Tweeter is already mounted.
You should mount the tweeter before wiring it. I drilled 1/8" holes for the tweeter wires. It fits nice and snug with no sealer needed.
Edit: Notice the Kleenex box under the crossover. That's to raise it up to make the tweeter wire shorter while soldering it to the board to save wire length.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205742)
Closer view.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205743)
Mounted on the bottom with 3 screws.
Edit: You can see the two screws in the front and the third is in the center of the rear coil. Drill the holes ahead of time and start the screws before inserting the crossovers in the boxes. Be sure the screws you use are not so long that they go all the way through the bottom. I used 3/4" long screws.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205744)
Adding the poly fill as per the instructions.
Edit: Picked some up at a craft store. It does not come in the kit.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205745)
And assembled and bolted to the stands. Again I will take some better photos soon.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205746)
Showing the Norez and tweeter wires.
Edit: I drilled 1/8 inch holes in each front corner for the tweeter wires. It is a tight fit and does not need sealer.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205747)
Tube connectors and Anti Cable speaker cables.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205748)
Grill mounting clips installed. All that is left is to install the grill cloth.
Edit: A tip is you use the plastic clips like I did. Place the grill frame on the speaker. Mark the location where you want the clips. I put them 1 1/2 inches from the ends. Then drill a small 1/16 inch hole all the way through the frame and into the top of the box. This will locate the larger holes for the clips perfectly. In this case the hole are 3/8" in the box and 1/4" in the grill frame. I used forstner bits. You could use brad point bits but I would not use standard drill bits.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205750)
Grill frame installed. I decided to round over the top opening of the frame.
That was not in the instructions but seemed like a good idea as you don't want sharp edges near drivers inside or out of the speakers.
A nice flair for the sound to more smoothly roll out the top.
Note also that the grill cloth and mounting clips do not come with the kit.
I purchased these from "Simply Speakers". He even has a video on how to install the cloth on your frames.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205751)
And here they are in the primary position in my room all hooked up to the Rogue Pharaoh integrated amp that they will be paired with in my dads system.
As I mentioned all that is left is to install the grill cloth and then they are complete.
This has been a fun project for me. They turned out beautiful. The pictures don't do them justice. They really look sharp in person.
I will have the grills finished and get some good photos up soon.
Enjoy!
Question.
The speaker wire is that wire that Danny provides? or sells in his website? or should i purchase my own speaker wire? Any recommendations on gage?
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Question.
The speaker wire is that wire that Danny provides? or sells in his website? or should i purchase my own speaker wire? Any recommendations on gage?
The internal cable is the kind Danny provides along with the kit, its 16 gauge continuous cast pure copper.
Unless you mean the cables from the amps to the speakers, SonicJoy mentioned they're from Anticables. But I usually hear that speaker wire is usually said to be 10-14 gauge.
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The internal cable is the kind Danny provides along with the kit, its 16 gauge continuous cast pure copper.
Unless you mean the cables from the amps to the speakers, SonicJoy mentioned they're from Anticables. But I usually hear that speaker wire is usually said to be 10-14 gauge.
Yes correct from the Amp to the speaker it self. Has anybody heard of Cardas? they are based out of Oregon. I believe Danny does recommend them for soldering wire.
I want to support local companies (i live in Oregon) and they have the cheapest wire which is 101Speaker 2.5m pair $225.00 or a crosslink wire for 315.00. Honestly i spent a lot of money and i don't want to take short cuts but my wallet is feeling very light lately.
They are also asking for 230.00 for interconnect. (i will be using the tube connector to connect to the speaker)
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For interconnects you could try Bluejeanscable. Their LC-1 cable is made in America by Belden.
But if you’re interested in trying a better-engineered cable then check out their premium line, Iconoclast which is also made by Belden. I recently picked up a pair of their lower cost BAV RCA cables to bridge my preamp and amp. Very impressive. Sadly, I cannot afford their speaker cables. The engineering is all laid out on the website.
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So, I've got a question. If it's already been answered elsewhere in this long thread, I apologize.
Why put the norez on the angled top of the speaker? On the exterior! I thought the idea of the tweeter being an open baffle was so the sound (projecting to the rear) could bounce off that angled surface, then off the rear wall and ceiling. It seems like you're defeating the intent of the design by putting norez there.
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So, I've got a question. If it's already been answered elsewhere in this long thread, I apologize.
Why put the norez on the angled top of the speaker? On the exterior! I thought the idea of the tweeter being an open baffle was so the sound (projecting to the rear) could bounce off that angled surface, then off the rear wall and ceiling. It seems like you're defeating the intent of the design by putting norez there.
I believe it's to slow the rear wave & allow it to act like its further from the front wall than it is, as well as more evenly diffuse the sound.
It still bounces off the front wall/ceiling, but if placed up against the wall without norez, the sound is more likely to destructively interfere with the front wave. It would be less of an issue if pulled out into the room since the rear wave still has to travel a further distance, but its still recommended.
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Received the upgraded resistors and foil inductors for the NX Studios, between them and the copper caps this is going be a heavy and big X-over. Glad I'm not going to have to put these in the speakers.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=213989)
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Foil inductors & path resistors, I'm guessing? That's probably the way I'm planning on going with my kit as well. I would love to go with all Miflex Copper caps, but they're too far outside of my price range & physically too large IMO, so they'll just be for bypass duty & use Sonicaps instead.
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I'm going with Dannys copper caps with Miflex caps as bypass. I used the Miflex caps for bypass and the Path resistors on my Super 7s and they were a nice improvement.
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Received the upgraded resistors and foil inductors for the NX Studios, between them and the copper caps this is going be a heavy and big X-over. Glad I'm not going to have to put these in the speakers.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=213989)
I completed the same build over the weekend.. Took every inch of a 5" x 12" mounting plate (max plate dimensions I could fit through the driver opening with caps in place and between all the NoRez w/in the enclosure.. I went with a 0.125" polycarbonate plate in order to recover some of the lost volume over the standard 3/4 MDF mounting board. Heavy indeed! Need to spend some time setting the placement of the Studio's, but I'm really surprised with their low-end extension in my room..
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Received the upgraded resistors and foil inductors for the NX Studios, between them and the copper caps this is going be a heavy and big X-over. Glad I'm not going to have to put these in the speakers.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=213989)
Were the foil inductors off the shelf or special order?
What's the brand and foil gauge?
Are you going to ground the shield of the Path Audio resistors?
If you don't mined me asking, where did you purchase these parts?
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The large inductors are Mundorf and are 14 gauge I got them from Parts Express as Parts Connection, where I got the resisters and goertz inductors, ( the small ones ) as they were out of that size. The goertz are 16 gauge.
Danny carries foil inductors, but I believe was out at the time I ordered the kit.
Yes I’m going to ground the resistors as I did on my Super7s X-over.
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I've noticed through various strings on the forum, the gauge size of the inductors seems to vary. I've been trying to figure out what is the criteria when selecting the inductors gauge?
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Just so I'm clear -- will a fully tricked out crossover (Danny's copper caps, foil inductors, Path resistors, etc.) fit inside the cabinet or will an external crossover be necessary?
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Just so I'm clear -- will a fully tricked out crossover (Danny's copper caps, foil inductors, Path resistors, etc.) fit inside the cabinet or will an external crossover be necessary?
So long as you can cram it all close together, onto a roughly 5"x12" board it'll fit, but it'll definitely be a very tight fit. But an external crossover wouldn't be a bad idea either, esp if going with the gigantic copper caps, not just bypass copper caps.
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Danny said he was going to send out my kit last week, I heard nothing so figured he got busy. Surprise UPS show up with my kit. :angel: Thanks Danny.
I did a dry run on the X-over. with all the parts as close as I could get them they required 8"x10" space at best with the no-rez you have 6"x 11" maybe.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=214017)
On the second dry run with the spacing I like it was 8.5"x 12.5"
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=214021)
Early B. I'd say no way.
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Wow those are huge!
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Early B. I'd say no way.
OK, thanks. I suspected as much. Now I gotta help a friend figure out how to design external crossovers in such a way where they don't clutter the floor.
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Just so I'm clear -- will a fully tricked out crossover (Danny's copper caps, foil inductors, Path resistors, etc.) fit inside the cabinet or will an external crossover be necessary?
It will fit.. I built it over the weekend, all installed on a 5"x12" mounting board and fit nicely (albeit snug) in the NoRez lined cabinet of the NX Studio..
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=214054)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=214055)
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Argoncat you were Houdini in your last life. :thumb: Thanks for the X-over diagram very helpful.
What wire are you using?
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I used 18 AWC OCC Copper from VH Audio..
First one took me ~4 hours of work to organize the parts and fret if I had connected it correctly, second one went so much better. Still looking for a better solution to attaching foil inductors in the path, lots of flux and surface solder was what I used and appeared to work just fine but feel there must be a better way.. I saw one comment about using a hole punch though the foil and wrapping the connecting wires through the hole, maybe next time I'll try that..
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Sonicjoy said that he added poly fill per the instruction, where are there instruction? How much poly fill?
I need to move where the tube connecters are located, any suggestions on what to fill the existing hole with.
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I need to move where the tube connecters are located, any suggestions on what to fill the existing hole with.
Go to the Big Box store and buy a wood dowel in the closest size for 85 cents. Cut off 3/4" and glue it in then putty.
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Perfect, thanks.
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It will fit..
Awesome! That's good to know. The diagram is very helpful.
Got a question for anyone who knows -- I notice that some people are adding bypass caps. I was under the impression that bypass caps can improve the sound only if they are of higher quality than the cap they're bypassing. Danny's copper caps seem to be top of the line. My assumption about bypass caps may be wrong. Is there another reason to use bypass caps? Can someone elaborate?
Thanks.
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I just did dry run on the no-rez and Sonicjoys lay out might work for him but they didn't work with the flat pack.
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Here is the way I laid it out the No-rez, I had the luxury of 2 extra 12"x12" pieces of no-rez so I didn't have to piece any of it together. I also did a layout with out the extra pieces, you will have to piece the 2 back pieces in this layout with just enough left over to fill in around x-over.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=214100)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=214098)
Here is a pic of the template for the top sides I used, I added the little bump out to fill the space in front of the brace on the final layout.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=214101)
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Started on cross-overs first one soldered but not glue to board yet, though I'd check make sure all looks good.
Boy this is a heavy cross-over nearly 11lb with the wood plank it's mounted on.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=214929)
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I cant get over the size of that copper cap... :lol:
Im guessing this is going to be an external crossover?
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Started on cross-overs first one soldered but not glue to board yet, though I'd check make sure all looks good.
Boy this is a heavy cross-over nearly 11lb with the wood plank it's mounted on.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=214929)
Gloriously over the top! :lol:
Thanks for sharing the process with us, looking forward to seeing the results and reading about how they sound.
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Started on cross-overs first one soldered but not glue to board yet, though I'd check make sure all looks good.
Boy this is a heavy cross-over nearly 11lb with the wood plank it's mounted on.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=214929)
Sweet Mike.
charles
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So, no one spotted that the big cap was backwards, realized it when I assembled second cross-over. :duh:
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Backwards?? I only thought electrolytic capacitors had polarity.
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Hi kids!
Back with more progress. Had a productive weekend and got these almost completely finished. All that's left is to finish the grills.
They are now up and running with about eight hours on them. I fully intended to post all the latest info and photos this morning but I could not tear myself away from listening to them. I will try to get the thread updated on the crossover and wiring details tonight.
And just to not keep you all waiting with the question of how do they sound?
All I will say at this point is that anyone wondering if these are as good as claimed. YES! :D :D :D
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205701)
Hi SonicJoy,
My wife is a graphic designer and she has been helping me manipulating the colors to my own Studio monitors. We did use one of your pictures. I would like to post the picture on this forum to get feedback from everyone on which color scheme looks the "best". Since you are the owner of the picture can we use the picture by uploading it to this forum with the color alterations?
I am still waiting for Danny to send me my kit, I am just getting ready and imagining how the speakers will look like.
Thank you,
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Sure go ahead. Love to see what you and her came up with. :popcorn:
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Thank you SonicJoy.
Unfortunately the exact color that we chose for the speakers does look a tiny bit different between her Wacom tablet and my PC monitor. You may see a different shade of color as well.
My wife only sent me the pictures with the white background (she is working on adding the background where I want my speakers, to give me a better idea of how they will look with the room)
One of the pictures has a bezel of the same color that the side and back of the speaker could have. (I took that idea from my Klipsch Fives) I am leaning more towards it. It would be a dark cherry finish closely matching the China cabinet that we have.
Also she has the ability to add designs, so I am planning on adding some sort of design so it's not the finish product. Only color schemes.
Out of both the pictures which one do you guys like best?
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=217019)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=217020)
I am a visual person and since my wife has the ability to manipulate colors and backgrounds etc. Her skills really are giving me a good direction of what colors I will want to use. She will never see this post but thanks sweetie for your services.
Also I do welcome suggestions or other color schemes.
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I do not know about others, but to me, getting your wife involved in the project is an act of genius! There is no wrong choice from her.
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They both look good but I like the 2nd one more. If you have light colored furnitures then the first one might be preferred
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They both look good. Again depends what you and her like but if I had to choose I also like the dark one.
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Thank you the few of you.
As I was uploading the pictures, I got the idea to paint the screws the same color (copper/bronze) as the tweeter and woofer color.
I think I may go with the second picture as well. We looked through other possible ideas but this one has stood out the most.
Once the final design is done I will start building the speaker and the sub woofer box.
I will upload a few pictures once I have it all done.
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I have read this thread about half a dozen times now. So much that it has inspired me to create an account here to post. Absolutely love the build! This has inspired me to build a pair of these. I am nervous because I haven't heard them. And I am nervous about the cabinet build. I know I can buy the CNC cut flat packs, but I want the wood veneered sides.
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I am nervous because I haven't heard them. And I am nervous about the cabinet build. I know I can buy the CNC cut flat packs, but I want the wood veneered sides.
No need to be nervous, these are the best sounding 2 way monitors in the world and Captainhemo’s flat packs are as perfect and easy to assemble as it gets. The fact that you can have these for less than $1500 is absolutely crazy.
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No need to be nervous, these are the best sounding 2 way monitors in the world and Captainhemo’s flat packs are as perfect and easy to assemble as it gets. The fact that you can have these for less than $1500 is absolutely crazy.
I've never heard an open baffle design before. Would it make a difference that these are going in a family room with no acoustic treatment? They will need to be positioned straddeling a corner against the wall. It's an open floor plan, so the space is large. I understand the importance of acoustic treatment, as I have my studio space stuffed with it, but I don't think I can get away with that in the upstairs family room.
Right now, I have a pair of ELAC B6's. I had considered grabbing an open box pair of their Debut 6.2's for $200 and modding them with Danny's kit, but wasn't sure if that was worth the effort. I mainly want to upgrade my music listening playback system because I know how good it can be having a pretty killer setup in my studio space.
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I've never heard an open baffle design before. Would it make a difference that these are going in a family room with no acoustic treatment? They will need to be positioned straddeling a corner against the wall. It's an open floor plan, so the space is large. I understand the importance of acoustic treatment, as I have my studio space stuffed with it, but I don't think I can get away with that in the upstairs family room.
These are only semi open baffle in design with the tweeter being open at the top with a ramp. The rear beaming waves from the tweeter basically get absorbed by the ramp with no-rez on it and the rest of the waves are going up at an angle that makes them far from any surface. They were designed to be able to put against a wall. I have mine against a wall in my bedroom and they sound fantastic. Off course as with most speakers, the soundstage always can be improved by moving them away from the wall. But with these, its not as dramatic as the full open baffles are. I should also point out that you MUST have a subwoofer with these. They start rolling off at 70hz.
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What other speaker would you say these compare to? Just looking for a frame of reference, since I have none. I was looking at a used pair of the Ascend Sierra towers for around the same price.
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Studio monitors are gonna crush anything under $5k. But they do need a good sub. I’d recommend building a pair of servo OB subs and using them as stands. That gets you in to the $15k performance ballpark.
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Studio monitors are gonna crush anything under $5k. But they do need a good sub. I’d recommend building a pair of servo OB subs and using them as stands. That gets you in to the $15k performance ballpark.
Whoa! And by "Studio monitors" you are referring to Danny's NX_Studio's?
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Yup! The NX-Studio is the current name for the Studio Monitors, since they share the OB Neo3 in a waveguide & the M-165NQ drivers.
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What other speaker would you say these compare to? Just looking for a frame of reference, since I have none. I was looking at a used pair of the Ascend Sierra towers for around the same price.
The best speakers I have been able to directly compare to side by side are my Focal Electra 1038be2 towers. Those retailed for $13k new and the NX-Studios with subs absolutely destroy them across the board. They are a world class monitor.
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The best speakers I have been able to directly compare to side by side are my Focal Electra 1038be2 towers. Those retailed for $13k new and the NX-Studios with subs absolutely destroy them across the board. They are a world class monitor.
Well, alright then. I'm sold. Going in blind but here's to hoping you good people will be able to offer me some guidance when it comes to building these!
Oh, and can you recommend me subs that would integrate well with these? I think I'd prefer subs that also function as speaker stands, so that they can blend in and be sort of invisible. I think I saw a photo of something like that. They looked fantastic. Does Danny sell a kit like that?
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If you mean sub stands like these:
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=219540)(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=217682)
They aren't available anymore unless Danny decides to restock the 8" subs & the HX300 amp (which iirc is currently being replaced with a newer model) i got mine already assembled from Danny.
However, I'm my experience with them so far, they work best in small/medium size rooms. In large rooms they tend to fall a bit short.. but they are incredibly fast and detailed! The Dual 12" H-Frame towers will have MUCH more bass authority and presence in larger rooms. Tho not as easy to hide as a setup like mine.
I think someone *did* build something similar to mine with the 12" drivers, but it was intended for the Wedgies, using a Neo3 & 4 LGK drivers, making for a very narrow naffle.
Alternatively, the Rythmik L12 is a great sub, and since its sealed should have no issues blending in with the Studios.
I, like many others, am still waiting for availability on the NQ drivers, but I'm excited to get this build finished by April if all goes well.
Ill also be getting back to my build thread once the kit arrives so others can follow along. :thumb:
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Dual OB servo subs for the win!
(https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQaFAMOrJ4wiKM6UTOUmVJ6wMcgErPZoD6VfQ&usqp=CAU)
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I run a pair of these http://www.rythmikaudio.com/FM8.html (http://www.rythmikaudio.com/FM8.html). They provide output equivalent to a single 12” but go higher.
They sit at 20” high. I use them as 68 lb speaker stands with an Isoacoustics L8R200. They only have line level inputs, but it is simple to knock together a voltage divider to run them from speaker level.
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Hi guys! Glad you are all still having fun with my thread! My dad is still enjoying the Studios very much. He absolutely loves them. Hobbs glad to see you are building your own set. Keep up the good work everyone!
I have not been doing anything GR related lately, so that's why my absence. However, I am planning to upgrade the crossovers in my Emerald Physics EP 2.7s (even higher than Danny did) so will be hitting Danny up for some copper caps and coils soon. Also have moved to a Dennis Had Inspire KT-88 HO single ended tube amp and Damn does that sound good with the Big E.P. OB's. I want to take it to my dads place soon and try it with the Studios. I bet that would be a good match. What do you think Tyson? I have seen you over on the AA Inspire mega thread.
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Hi guys! Glad you are all still having fun with my thread! My dad is still enjoying the Studios very much. He absolutely loves them. Hobbs glad to see you are building your own set. Keep up the good work everyone!
I have not been doing anything GR related lately, so that's why my absence. However, I am planning to upgrade the crossovers in my Emerald Physics EP 2.7s (even higher than Danny did) so will be hitting Danny up for some copper caps and coils soon. Also have moved to a Dennis Had Inspire KT-88 HO single ended tube amp and Damn does that sound good with the Big E.P. OB's. I want to take it to my dads place soon and try it with the Studios. I bet that would be a good match. What do you think Tyson? I have seen you over on the AF Inspire mega thread.
Oh yeah, I run the Dennis Had Inspire MB12 KT88 monoblocks in my downstairs system, driving my Super 7s. Dennis makes fabulous sounding amps. Plus I love the ability to tube roll in those things.
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I bet that sounds incredible. If memory serves your Sevens have dual 12" servo subs built in? Man best of both worlds sweet single ended tube sound on midrange up and deep powerful bass. I would love to hear it!
I really wish I would have tried the Inspire amp when I had the Studio's. I probably would have got one for my dad, because with the imaging capability of the Studios and the Inspire amp I bet the sound stage would be huge.
Very cool stuff! My system has never sounded so good! I'm having a lot of fun with this audio hobby lately, hope everyone here is as well. :thumb:
Cheers.
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If you mean sub stands like these:
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=219540)(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=217682)
They aren't available anymore unless Danny decides to restock the 8" subs & the HX300 amp (which iirc is currently being replaced with a newer model) i got mine already assembled from Danny.
However, I'm my experience with them so far, they work best in small/medium size rooms. In large rooms they tend to fall a bit short.. but they are incredibly fast and detailed! The Dual 12" H-Frame towers will have MUCH more bass authority and presence in larger rooms. Tho not as easy to hide as a setup like mine.
I think someone *did* build something similar to mine with the 12" drivers, but it was intended for the Wedgies, using a Neo3 & 4 LGK drivers, making for a very narrow naffle.
Alternatively, the Rythmik L12 is a great sub, and since its sealed should have no issues blending in with the Studios.
I, like many others, am still waiting for availability on the NQ drivers, but I'm excited to get this build finished by April if all goes well.
Ill also be getting back to my build thread once the kit arrives so others can follow along. :thumb:
Yes! That's what I was referencing! No longer available? Dag. Something sleek and unobtrusive like that would have been perfect. Blends in so well and stays 'hidden'. I can't really put a monster setup in my family room.
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Wow! Those sub stands are cool! Like you said great for a small room. Just a very slick clean look. Would love to hear that combo.
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Wow! Those sub stands are cool! Like you said great for a small room. Just a very slick clean look. Would love to hear that combo.
Absolutely! With my XLS, they're incredibly fast and will reliability hit down deep with any song i throw at it in smaller/longer rooms, only times I've had issues are when the volume is past 1oclock and the song has badly compressed bass, causing clipping issues. Or rolling off early cuz a room is too large. But when its dialed in just i can hit the really deep notes in Boz Scaggs "Thanks to you" and in a lot of 70s prog rock, bass has tons of great texture and grit that really shines thru!
Only subs I've heard that are better are Danny's triple sub towers, but Six 12" drivers will always beat out 4 8" drivers.. :P
I'm really excited to get my Studios up and running this year once the NQ drivers are back in stock. :thumb:
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Anything similar to those sub stands that I can build?
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I know Jay/Captainhemo developed a wedge shaped stand for the Super Mini that used 4 8" servo subs, but I imagine a version could be adapted to fit a pair of 12" drivers. Tho i dont know its exact dimensions. It's possible a more squared version like mine could also be made to fit dual 12" drivers, but it would need to be a little wider and deeper, but I imagine should work fine. The trick will be to see if the plate amp will still fit or need to be a separate unit.
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If you want endgame bass then a stereo pair of dual open baffle H frames are the ticket. That is if you have room for them. They need space behind them but the sound they make is so worth it.
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Well, I did it. I've got the flat packs coming my way. I'm starting to map out my plan of approach. My first hurdle is going to be the veneer. @Sonicjoy, you advised making the panels slightly larger so that when the veneer is adhered, you can trim them down to size for a more finished look. How would that work with a flat pack? Any advice to make the veneer process as painless as possible? How would I flush trim the edges? Where did you order your veneer from?
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You can still do it with the flat pack, just have to be careful. Leave the veneer wider than the panel. Once glue is dry turn face down on a scrape of flat smooth plywood and carefully trim against the panel with a very sharp razor knife. Then using a sanding block sand flush.
I bought my veneer on ebay.
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I did my NX studio with raw quilted maple veneer on the sides and back.
It would have been better for me to get paper backed veneer, esp since I didnt have any experience with the process.
It will be much easier to work with.
It wouldn't be a bad idea to go with heat lock glue, and will make the veneering process easier after the cabinet it assembled, then trim it down with a router flush bit.
Peter's XLS veneer video us a great place to start, esp if you want to veneer the front & back as well as the sides.
https://youtu.be/pb5KiJmIWII
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You can still do it with the flat pack, just have to be careful. Leave the veneer wider than the panel. Once glue is dry turn face down on a scrape of flat smooth plywood and carefully trim against the panel with a very sharp razor knife. Then using a sanding block sand flush.
I bought my veneer on ebay.
If I may, I'd like to ask a couple more questions of you to get me started. You used paperbacked cherry veneer and you only applied a clear coat finish, no stain?
What MDF sealer did you use, and did you apply that to every MDF surface, including the inside? How many coats?
Finally, you left one side off initially to allow for fitting the norez and installing tube connectors. Would it be easier to seal the mdf on the inside at this stage? And apply the norez as well?
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What MDF sealer did you use, and did you apply that to every MDF surface, including the inside? How many coats?
No need to seal the MDF unless you plan on leaving it raw (no paint or veneer), painting, or using the speaker for flotation (not recommended and may void the warranty). Interior does not need to be sealed.
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Depends on where you live. In a more humid environment, its not a bad idea to seal the internals with something like dewaxed shellac, lacquer or other equivalent sealant.
In regularly dry environments it's less likely to be an issue.
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Depends on where you live. In a more humid environment, its not a bad idea to seal the internals with something like dewaxed shellac, lacquer or other equivalent sealant.
In regularly dry environments it's less likely to be an issue.
Good point, it's been decades since I lived in a humid environment, so it's not something I think about often anymore.
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I used Minwax wood sealer. I feel it's a good idea to seal the interior. Sealing both sides of wood panels helps prevent warping. I'm a finish carpenter and cabinet builder by trade and always seal both sides of panels. It's not hard and just takes a few minutes so why not. Also sealer penetrates the wood and hardens it a little. It can also be used on the veneer before staining to get a more even look, but you should always test on some scrap pieces first.
I sealed everything but the veneer.
The finish I used was Minwax "Wipe on Polly" clear satin. Very easy to use, drys fast and looks great. I believe I applied 5 coats.
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I used Minwax wood sealer. I feel it's a good idea to seal the interior. Sealing both sides of wood panels helps prevent warping. I'm a finish carpenter and cabinet builder by trade and always seal both sides of panels. It's not hard and just takes a few minutes so why not. Also sealer penetrates the wood and hardens it a little. It can also be used on the veneer before staining to get a more even look, but you should always test on some scrap pieces first.
I sealed everything but the veneer.
The finish I used was Minwax "Wipe on Polly" clear satin. Very easy to use, drys fast and looks great. I believe I applied 5 coats.
Thanks for the advice! Do you feel it's better to seal the MDF before assembly or after? Same with the norez. Seems like it'd be easier to both seal the MDF and apply the norez with one of the sides open. Is there a drawback to this that I'm not thinking of?
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It's best to seal it already assembled.
If you decide to glue it up, except for one side, i recommend assembling everything together, including the side you dont want glued, that way once sealing & Norez installation is complete, just so everything is alligned properly. I did mine all at once, and just sealed it afterwards.
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Yes after its glued up. Glue works best on bare wood. I like Tight Bond wood glue any flavor, though my fav is Tight Bond 3.
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@ Sonicjoy
Thanks for the sharing of the build process. I am taking notes. :)
There is however one thing in regards to the gluing in particular clamping the pieces together. In one of your pictures there are 2 clamps that I cannot find the reason for them to be there. A grey clamp and the other is yellow (with a piece of wood not sure what purposes it has there).
Would you please explain that bit in more detail?
Thank you
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=223713)
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Sure. The gray clamp on the left that you marked is just holding the whole assembly to the table, so it doesn't move. The one on the right is clamping the angled top plate down. You always want all mating joints to be clamped together thats why so many clamps as I was gluing up several parts at once. Hope that clears things up.
Good luck and have fun!
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About the yellow clamp: That is what I thought also for the first time, that it had to be the angled top plate, but then: in this picture and also the other picture where the back is also glued on, the angled plate is not angled, but 90 degrees to the front baffle and also it is above the tweeter and not between the woofer and tweeter. So is it there just to have the front baffle exactly at 90 degrees to the side wall (that is on the bottom)? As a support and not glued, just fixed with the clamp?
I am not a woodworker nor is it my profession working with wood, it is just I want to get it right and for that there is one chance to get it right. So the saying "measure twice, cut once" applies for me very much, even if in this case "measure twice, glue once".
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You are correct. It's been awhile since I built these. Had to study the photo to jog the memory. Yes that is a temporary brace to keep the side and front square while the glue sets up.
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I did my NX studio with raw quilted maple veneer on the sides and back.
It would have been better for me to get paper backed veneer, esp since I didnt have any experience with the process.
It will be much easier to work with.
It wouldn't be a bad idea to go with heat lock glue, and will make the veneering process easier after the cabinet it assembled, then trim it down with a router flush bit.
Peter's XLS veneer video us a great place to start, esp if you want to veneer the front & back as well as the sides.
https://youtu.be/pb5KiJmIWII
Great video. Very informative. Must watch for anyone doing veneering for the first time.
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Hi Sonicjoy, and anyone who could verify for me.
The wiring for the crossover layout below.
The upper left is for positive input.
The upper right is for tweeter negative
Lower left is woofer positive.
Lower right is negative input/ woofer negative/ tweeter positive
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=225520)
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Hi Sonicjoy, and anyone who could verify for me.
The wiring for the crossover layout below.
The upper left is for positive input.
The upper right is for tweeter negative
Lower left is woofer positive.
Lower right is negative input/ woofer negative/ tweeter positive
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=225520)
That is correct!
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That is correct!
Thank you!
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Thanks Hobbs, you beat me to it. I also posted this in the sticky thread "Crossover Assembly 101" on page 10. Maybe some more info there.
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(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205744)
Adding the poly fill as per the instructions.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=205750)
Grill frame installed. I decided to round over the top opening of the frame.
That was not in the instructions but seemed like a good idea as you don't want sharp edges near drivers inside or out of the speakers.
Were/Are there instructions that come with the NX Studio? I'm reading through all the NX Studio builds that I can. Because I don't see any instructions except for the crossover electronic diagram.
If anyone can point me to directions, I would really appreciate it. I'm beginning my first build and want to make sure I get it right. For example, going through this thread, I've realized I need to do a fit with my no-rez before I assemble the cabinets.
Thanks!
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Hi nadirmg. The instructions come with the parts kit when you buy it. I don't know for sure but they may be on Danny's web site. Good luck and have fun! Wonderful loudspeakers!
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Hi nadirmg. The instructions come with the parts kit when you buy it. I don't know for sure but they may be on Danny's web site. Good luck and have fun! Wonderful loudspeakers!
Ok, that's a relief... I was beginning to feel like I had gotten in over my head if I was to do this with only a crossover diagram! :o
Thanks man.
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If you get a front baffle, the kit comes with cabinet plans. If you get the flatpack, it's pretty self explanatory, and it's best to do a couple dry runs for assembling the flatpack. Peter also has a great assembly video on his YouTube channel for how it should fit together.
And if you ever get stuck, you're always free to ask questions and get confirmation/clarification if you get stuck on something. :thumb:
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Well, additional fiber fill wasn’t mention in anything I received, so if that is needed I need details.
While we are answering questions…. :)
Does the tweeter orientation matter? (I would have mounted 180deg from what is shown here)
Any tip for soldering to foil inductors?
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Additional filler is recommended, but not necessary.
Fiberglass or rockwool are generally recommended, but even loosely placed polyfill over the crossover and against the back of the speaker are ghe best place in terms of the NX-Studio.
Tweeter orientation doesn't matter, but it easier to install the driver with the tabs at the top.
As for foil inductors here is a helpful post:
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=177128.msg1864778#msg1864778
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Hi nadirmg. The instructions come with the parts kit when you buy it. I don't know for sure but they may be on Danny's web site. Good luck and have fun! Wonderful loudspeakers!
@Sonicjoy or anyone else that could help, I am finally ready to start building! I have the Flatpack here and all the parts from Danny. I really love how Sonicjoy's speakers turned out, and would like to build mine the same. I am looking to order some paperbacked cherry veneer. I found a place called veneersupplies, but let me know if anyone has a better or more affordable place to order.
My question for now is, what adhesive did you use to glue the veneer to MDF? Joe at Veneersupplies suggests contact cement, and he sells a version, but it's almost $30 for a quart.
Any advice here?
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@Sonicjoy or anyone else that could help, I am finally ready to start building! I have the Flatpack here and all the parts from Danny. I really love how Sonicjoy's speakers turned out, and would like to build mine the same. I am looking to order some paperbacked cherry veneer. I found a place called veneersupplies, but let me know if anyone has a better or more affordable place to order.
My question for now is, what adhesive did you use to glue the veneer to MDF? Joe at Veneersupplies suggests contact cement, and he sells a version, but it's almost $30 for a quart.
Any advice here?
I think Joe's pricing and selection is as good as any, plus you're supporting small business, which I favor. Unless you've worked with contact glue and are confident in your abilities, Heat Lock is more forgiving if you've never veneered before. I suspect the contact glue he sells is somewhat like one I used forever, 3M 30NF. Great glue, but not cheap. Don't assume it's the same as something from Big Box like Weldwood.
If you haven't seen it, I did a video on veneering with Heatlock.
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I think Joe's pricing and selection is as good as any, plus you're supporting small business, which I favor. Unless you've worked with contact glue and are confident in your abilities, Heat Lock is more forgiving if you've never veneered before. I suspect the contact glue he sells is somewhat like one I used forever, 3M 30NF. Great glue, but not cheap. Don't assume it's the same as something from Big Box like Weldwood.
If you haven't seen it, I did a video on veneering with Heatlock.
How much will I need? Looks like Joe is discontinuing this due to price increases. A pint ($18) or a gallon ($43) are my only two choices. For the contact cement, he has a quart for $28. I just have no idea how much I’ll need.
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That's first I've heard of discontinuation of Heatlock. In all honesty, I think he's misjudged the market.
I suspect you could get by with a pint of Heatlock. A quart of either would be plenty.
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Hi folks! I made some more progress on the NX Studio's this weekend. These are coming along nicely and I am having fun building them.
Both sides are now installed.
I have decided on the color scheme. The side panels are going to be clear finished cherry and the front and top will be black.
That was my original idea and I decided to stick with that.
I cut a saw kerf with a thin kerf blade on the table saw between the baffle and the side panels for an nice clean dividing line between the colors. It's about 1/16 inch deep.
I installed brass threaded inserts in the bottom for attaching the stands. I left a lip around the bottom edge to hide the mounting plate of the stand.
The 7/16 inch holes for the tube connectors.
After the first coat of finish. Boy that really brings out the grain of the cherry.
This is after three coats. I'm not sure how many coats I will put on. Just have to see how it looks. Probably at least five or six.
I also used a sealer on all MDF surfaces inside and out.
Next will be the black paint. (The back and bottom will also be black.) Then adding the Norez and installing the grill cloth and grill mounts.
At that point I will be ready to build the cross overs and then final assembly. Getting there.
Hello @sonicjoy! Thank you so much for this amazing thread. I just placed my order for an NX-Studio kit and flat pack. But before I build it, I'm going to build a much cheaper kit from Parts Express to get a little bit of practice.
What sealer did you use on the MDF surfaces? I've tried a Krylon clear polyurethane spray can, https://www.krylon.com/en/products/specialty/clear-polyurethane-coating?bvstate=pg:2/ct:r, but it doesn't seem to be very effective on the edges (photo below) :(
Also, am curious, why do you seal all MDF surfaces inside and out?
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=261359)