Second funky brace on Alphas and baffles takes it to infinity and beyond

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Ric Schultz

You certainly can color the sound a lot of ways with the box or baffle as many people have tried and some even sell speakers with variable box tuning.  But, as Danny said, this is not really pure sound.  Now, if the driver has a peak in the response and it sounds that way, then putting it in a box that sonically removes the peak results in a more linear sound.  Personally, I would go for the driver with the least coloration and put it on a dead damped baffle that also adds no coloration.  Since this game is very subjective (more than computers, video, cameras, cars, etc.). than whats "sounds good" to one person, may not be preferrable to another.  What I want from my stereo is it to disappear.  If the recording is great, and if all the playback equipment is great then I get to hear the original mic feed.  This is what I want.  I want to get as close to the original as possible.  However, there was an article in an old audiophile mag (I will remember the name later and put it here) where they had a guy stand between the speakers and sing.  They also had a CD of him singing the same song and they played it through that speaker system that included a solid state amp.  The sound from the CD was very close to him live.  Then they played the CD through a single ended triode amp and everyone crapped their pants.  It was so "LIVE and PALPABLE".   So live and palpable that it sounded better than the guy standing there singing.  I used to have original Quads and I had a tube amp and would play Joni Mitchell and Joan Baez and it would make me cry.  Then I was at a friends house down the street (who also owned Quads) for a party and he had a piano there and a woman was playing and singing.  I was standing maybe 10 feet from her.  I closed my eyes and listened to her and I thought to myself "If I heard that voice on my stereo I would think she was veiled".  So, a tube mic a few inches from the recording artist, then played through a tube amp and then through over imaging Quads played louder than real.......yep....sure sounded great.....was it real...who cares.

What I am suggesting you do is to experiment.  You really have no idea what your baffles are doing to the sound until you make them better/different.  You cannot just suppose that your baffle is fine because you put your hand on it and it seems to not be moving much.  Same with the magnets on the woofs and mids.  This is an area where very very few have gone.  Some want to just do what is simple and cheap.  Others want to do a little more....then a little more.....and then they die......and some want to find out how good their speakers can be......so they leave no stone unturned.  Which are you?  If making a rigid baffle, bracing it and also damping and bracing the magnets were hard to do or expensive, then I can see where you might not want to go down that road, or cannot go there.  But we are talking a few bucks here.   There are speakers that cost multi, multi thousands of dollars that are not done very well.  We can do very well for a few bucks.   

If someone tells me some intelligent information that I can use to make my system better and I can afford it, then I do it.  If they were wrong, I sure did not lose much.
 
Mostly what people fear most is to lose face.  They have an opinion and when they put it out for all to see, then they keep defending it no matter what.  Righteousness and fixed attitudes are the killer of joy, creativity and truth.  The killer of love.  "Fear is the lock, and laughter, the key to your heart".

lowtech

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If someone tells me some intelligent information...

Here's some.  Spend three bucks on an accelerometer, measure the effects of your open baffle bracing and then report back with your results.  Be detailed enough with your analysis so that others' can replicate your results.

If you do this then you will come across as someone who knows what they are talking about rather than some sort of half-baked snake oil salesman.

Ric Schultz

No, I trust my ears.  I also trust others ears.  Do you trust yours, or do you just want to be righteous and name calling?  Since you are so "hell bent" on measurements, I suggest you do it.  But really, I suggest you do the damping/bracing and listen.  You will hear the difference or your money back!  And while you are at it, try felting all around your tweeter and midrange.  This snake oil works too. 

My snake oil is best!  I give it away free and you get better speakers......pretty good deal.

How could better damping/bracing be controversial?  I mean, every dang multi-thousand dollar speaker has at least 2 inch thick front baffle or aluminum/copper braced box (check out Magico and their charts of showing the different resonance of different materials) or whatever.  I did not make this stuff up.  Same with felting, has been done for 30 years.....same with time aligning.....this is not new stuff.  You can do it or not.  It is up to you.

JohnR

Ric, to what extent is the premise of the tweaks reducing the vibration of the baffle itself, vs reducing the effect of the larger driver(s) on the smaller ones? It seems that moving subs to a separate baffle (and using a steep highpass filter on the main baffle) would dramatically reduce the baffle vibration simply by removing the source of it.

Ric Schultz

Sure, see #7 on the last page.  However, the midrange/tweeter baffle should still be done all out.  Again, the only way to know if is better is to try it.  Someone will eventually try what I suggest and report back. 

Just looked at the pic of your speaker (I assume that it is finished).....ummmmmm....you have a lot to do!  he he.  Clip leads?  Binding posts?  tweeter mounted by two tiny strips, no magnet mounting.  That baffle.....is it even three quarter inch?

Oh, I see now you have a "Franscesca" jobber too.  Well, that too is.....well....interesting. 

If you try all the things I suggest you will have to have someone call 911 after your heart attack and to retrieve your jaw after it falls into the basement.

JohnR

No, it's not finished, Ric. I would have thought that was obvious. I can point you to my articles about it (or you can search) if you wish to read about my approach.

You didn't answer my first question. Any thoughts on that?

Ric Schultz

I don't know what to say that I have not already.  Of course, it would be better to have the bass on its own baffle.  My speaker this year will do that. 

Basically, do everything you can think of to make the speaker baffle and magnets dead and braced, felt the front for low diffraction, time align physically if you are not using digital xovers, eliminate all unnecessary connections including binding posts and push on connectors, use the best xover parts you can afford and get the xover and speaker wires off the floor.  If you think it might make a difference.....if there is any chance, then do it.  This game is extremely subtle.  Everything makes a difference.....everything!  You do a few small tweaks and you have a new speaker.  Do some serious tweaks and you have a new system worth thousands more.

Just do it!