Good question, about the stands.
This is how they evolved: When I was doing measurements during the design phase of the Jazz Modules, distance to floor and ceiling were important factors. You see, I used time-gated measurments, and the longer the time interval between the arrival of the direct output from the driver, and the reflection off the nearest room boundary (usually either the floor or ceiling), the better. Better, because the longer that interval the lower the frequency down to which I could get good data. The ideal was to have the driver being measured equidistant from the floor and ceiling, as that maximized the time interval before the first reflection arrived. I had some stands and some blocks of wood, and I was putting the speakers on the stands to make measurements of the waveguide, then on the stands + blocks of wood to make measurements of the woofer.
Well, I thought they looked pretty good up on the stands, with the black waveguide & woofer matching the black stands - but those particular stands were too tall. So I made a shorter pair for the show. They were purely for looks. And in retrospect, I wish I hadn't done it - they have given people the impression that my speakers needed to be on short stands to sound good, like I'd made them four inches too short.
So only use stands if you want to. Or if they make the speakers look better. Or sound better. Which maybe they do, or maybe they don't... I really don't know!
By the way, I used a cheap yellow alternative to Blu-Tac to stick the stands to the speakers. It worked very well - I could tip the speakers until they were lying on the ground, and the stands would stay stuck to them. In fact, when I twisted the stands off, it took off some of the black paint on the top of the stands. Don't use too much - I don't think it would stick hard enough to peel off my wooden "skis" glued to the bottom of the cabinet, but too much yellow tac and it just might.
Duke
