Welcome to AudioCircle, Lee!
Congrats on getting your new speakers.
Designing and building speakers is substantial work, but repairing is often much easier.
First thing to do is measure resistance across the speaker input terminals to rule out a major short, before you connect the amp. If input resistance is lower than 3ohms then I would also disconnect the hookup wires from each driver and measure the voice coil resistance of each driver, to make sure they are not shorted. Typical driver VC is around 3-6ohms, so if you see <1 ohm or >20 ohms then there is problem with voice coil and you would need a replacement driver. While one bad driver theoretically wouldn't prevent others from playing, a shorted voice coil could lower the input impedance of the whole speaker enough to cause the connected amplifier to go into self protection mode from over-current.
If all that checks out OK then you can play music signal through the crossover while probing the crossover circuit path until you find the loss of signal, which is probably a loose connection or broken solder joint from shipping. You can use a multimeter set to AC voltage to probe the circuit. As long as the readout is moving then the signal is getting through. If voltage stops moving where it should have signal, you have located your fault.
You can check part health with multimeter too. Even though they might not be accurate readings with the parts still installed in circuit, you can still see that caps are not internally shorted and resistors are not open, if they give very unexpected values. If something looks fishy, you can desolder one leg of the part to test it accurately.
They look like very well-built crossovers and I don't see any obvious cause for concern from the parts themselves, but damage in shipment is certainly a possibility. The polyester caps were chosen for good sound quality, but modern PP caps might sound differentbetterish? idk I personally would just repair, not upgrade, but ymmv
