[Glady86]

 Do I connect the drivers using the polarity at the outputs of the crossover networks? When I look at the tweeter wiring  diagram for instance, the polarity reverses again. Or are the + and - symbols ahead of the dotted line segment on the wiring to drivers diagram simply the input before the crossover? 

  I think I know, but I want to be sure before I start soldering wire.
   
  Also, why is there a Sonicap .68uf bypass cap for the 25uf Sonicap quad at the midrange input? Should I use it and what could be the benefit? I built the crossovers but didnt attach that capacitor.

[mlundy57]

I keep the (+) and (-) circuits intact from the tube connector to the drivers. The (+) circuits use red wire and are connected to the red tube connector and continue with red wire all the way to the driver. The (-) circuits use white wire from the white tube connectors all the way to the drivers. Then, if the polarity is switched at the driver, the red wire is connected to the (-) driver terminal and the white wire is connected to the (+) driver terminal. If the polarity is not switched, the red wire is connected to the (+) driver terminal and the white wire is connected to the (-) driver terminal. I find this method helps keep things straight when connecting the drivers.

The by-pass cap on the big bundle serves the same function as any other by-pass cap. It caused the capacitor (either single or bundle) to discharge faster thereby providing a faster, cleaner, more detailed signal. The higher quality by-pass cap also gives some of it's sound characteristics to the larger cap(s). Yes, use it.

[Hobbsmeerkat]

Hi,

The tweeter and lower woofers are flipped polarity, you can either flip the polarity at the crossover, or at the driver(s).
For most people, it's easier to flip the polarity at the drivers rather than at the crossover.

When you flip the polarity at the drivers, the red wire will go to the smaller negative terminals, and the white wire will connect to the larger positive terminals.

The 0.68uF Sonicap is to further improve clarity of that bundle of Sonicaps. It discharges faster than the large caps, and it acts as a siphon, allowing the big caps to discharge faster.

[Glady86]

Thanks for the help. So its the way I thought. Output from woofer inductor to negative woofer speaker terminals then series jumper to next woofer etc.Just following the diagram on the first page made sense to me, I just got confused a little when looking at the second page.

  I'm getting close to finishing the speakers. I managed to get a pretty good or acceptable appearance. Theres some flaws but good enough for me. I just used black Duratex for all the panels. And satin black spray paint for the baffles. Titebond II Extend for gluing and about ten clamps two where band style clamps.

[Glady86]

 Also, any tips or tricks for cutting and installation of the No Rez sheets?

[Craig Young]

For cutting no-rez I did not want to buy a band saw, so I used a utility knife to get thru the sicky backing then the foam part I  use a 10 inch bread knife that's sharp and serrated.

[Glady86]

For cutting no-rez I did not want to buy a band saw, so I used a utility knife to get thru the sicky backing then the foam part I  use a 10 inch bread knife that's sharp and serrated.

  Thanks, I wonder what size band saw I would need and the cheapest that would be acceptable?

[mlundy57]

  Thanks, I wonder what size band saw I would need and the cheapest that would be acceptable?

If you don't want to use it for anything heavy you can use a small bench top saw like a $275 1/3HP, 9" Grizzly  https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-9-benchtop-bandsaw-with-laser-guide-and-quick-release/g0803z .

The least expensive I'm aware of is a 9" from Harbor Freight for $170 https://www.harborfreight.com/13-hp-9-in-benchtop-band-saw-60500.html .

Personally I'd pay the extra for the grizzly. I've had a Grizzly 1HP, 14" band saw https://www.harborfreight.com/13-hp-9-in-benchtop-band-saw-60500.html  for years and it does well enough for most types of cutting. More expensive though at $785.

[BrandonB]

Thanks for the help. So its the way I thought. Output from woofer inductor to negative woofer speaker terminals then series jumper to next woofer etc.Just following the diagram on the first page made sense to me, I just got confused a little when looking at the second page.

  I'm getting close to finishing the speakers. I managed to get a pretty good or acceptable appearance. Theres some flaws but good enough for me. I just used black Duratex for all the panels. And satin black spray paint for the baffles. Titebond II Extend for gluing and about ten clamps two where band style clamps.

Glady those optic's look really good.  How did you paint them?  Did you use a paint sprayer for the satin black?

[Glady86]

Thanks BrandonB, I used Rustoleum Universal spray can paint. its difficult (at least for me) to get an acceptable result from spray cans. Especially when needing to paint outside. I started with gloss black spray can paint and the results where down right ugly, uneven sheen crappy looking orange peel. So I sanded and went with Rustoleum Universal satin black. The results where Better but still not good enough. So a week later I sanded and gave it another go with the satin and was satisfied. Its certainly not  professional quality job, but acceptable to me.

 A note on Rustoleum Universal spray paint I used. It tends to spit blobs of paint when you press the handle to start the next pass, so it was difficult to use. I would recommend using a spray gun over fighting with spray can paint.I just never owned or used a spray gun set-up. But was seriously thinking about going that route after the first attempt with spray bomb paint.

[Glady86]

If you don't want to use it for anything heavy you can use a small bench top saw like a $275 1/3HP, 9" Grizzly  https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-9-benchtop-bandsaw-with-laser-guide-and-quick-release/g0803z .

The least expensive I'm aware of is a 9" from Harbor Freight for $170 https://www.harborfreight.com/13-hp-9-in-benchtop-band-saw-60500.html .

Personally I'd pay the extra for the grizzly. I've had a Grizzly 1HP, 14" band saw https://www.harborfreight.com/13-hp-9-in-benchtop-band-saw-60500.html  for years and it does well enough for most types of cutting. More expensive though at $785.

 Thanks, as long as 9" is big enough. Lowes have em for around $200.00. You can't have too many tools.

[nlitworld]

Thanks BrandonB, I used Rustoleum Universal spray can paint. its difficult (at least for me) to get an acceptable result from spray cans. Especially when needing to paint outside. I started with gloss black spray can paint and the results where down right ugly, uneven sheen crappy looking orange peel. So I sanded and went with Rustoleum Universal satin black. The results where Better but still not good enough. So a week later I sanded and gave it another go with the satin and was satisfied. Its certainly not  professional quality job, but acceptable to me.

 A note on Rustoleum Universal spray paint I used. It tends to spit blobs of paint when you press the handle to start the next pass, so it was difficult to use. I would recommend using a spray gun over fighting with spray can paint.I just never owned or used a spray gun set-up. But was seriously thinking about going that route after the first attempt with spray bomb paint.

If you ever have a round 2 for painting speakers (or anybody else for that matter), give me a shout and I'll get you all set. Even with aerosols, you can get pro results with pro level materials. My 8-5 gig is selling automotive paint and our joke at work is "friends don't let friends spray rustoleum".  Even still, they look great and I'm sure will sound even better. 

-Lloyd

[Glady86]

  I got one  speaker wired up so I wanted to do a  quick test to make sure it worked. Well, the tweeter was not working. After staring at the diagram and the crossover for an hour. I seen I hadn't connected the .56mh coil  parallel to the input and output after the 8uf capacitor. Luckily it was a simple fix, I just added a piece of wire to make the complete circuit. No major redo work or anything.

  Connected with just some mediocre components and basic cheap wiring I had handy and the dam thing sounds great. Just a note, the Parasound preamp I hooked up has a bass boast, so without that the sound is a little thin. Thats just sitting in my work area and I haven't even applied the no rez panels yet. Now Im sitting here playing music instead of working on the other speaker.

 I think I'll be very pleased with the sound.

[mlundy57]

Thin bass is common when the build is new. The drivers need 24-48 hours of playing including bees frequencies to break in. The crossovers need additional time with the amount depending on the type of components used to fully break in.

[Tyson]

Also running only 1 speaker is going to make the bass seem weak.  Especially with an OB speaker.

[Glady86]

 More pictures, finished except for the No-Rez.

[Tyson]

That’s a nice room.  And the speakers look great.

[Glady86]

Thanks Tyson, they turned out better than I thought I could achieve. It wasnt an easy project that's for sure. Even the wiring was a challenge for me. I just placed the speakers close to where my other speakers were. Ill listen for a while before I start tinkering to find the final positioning. Also wanted to hear them before adding the No-Rez. The tonal balance and resolution aspects are already ahead of anything I owned before.

[Tyson]

NoRez doesn’t “seem” like it would make much difference in an OB speaker but it does.

[Glady86]

NoRez doesn’t “seem” like it would make much difference in an OB speaker but it does.

 Hi Tyson, what improvements would  the NoRez provide? Also, how close to the baffle should I place it?