[Danny Richie]

I could help with that if you ever wanted.

Unfortunately assembling all the data and photo's or writing all of the information down is the time consuming part. By the time I get all of that done I can just upload it to the site myself. Finding the time to create all of that data and information is the tough part.

[mlundy57]

Anybody (Mike?) have veneering advice?

Never veneered before, but have spent the last few months on a woodworking project, so I think I'm ready to give it a shot.

I have been looking into veneering, now and in the past, and considered iron on, press on with clamps, vacuum press with either raw, paper backed or 2 ply veneer in various combinations.

I am currently leaning towards raw veneer, and building a vacuum press to install it, but I've only changed my mind a few times on this in the last couple of days.   
Randy

Randy,

First, whatever type of veneer you use, the surface preparation is vital. Your finish can't be any better than your surface prep. Any imperfections in the surface will show through the veneer.  So make sure everything is smooth and flush before applying the veneer.

I have not used raw veneer or a vacuum press. I don't know how well a vacuum press would work if you round over the edges and fold the veneer around three sides at the same time.  I have used PSA backed veneer, which is a peel & stick type of contact cement, and the iron on method.  Of those two I like the iron on best.

Here are a couple of websites with veneering "How To" information:

http://www.veneersupplies.com/
http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/workshop/

You Tube is a another source of "how to" videos

A good sharp veneer saw is really helpful, especially if you are going to have to mate up multiple pieces of raw veneer to get a large enough piece to cover your speaker.  The veneer saw can also be used to trim the veneer after it is applied. You could also use a flush trim bit in a router. A small laminate trim router works best for me. If you use a router you will want to apply tape to the piece the bit will ride along to prevent the bearing from marking the veneer. 

What ever you choose to do, practice on some scraps first. Veneering isn't hard but like everything else there is a learning curve.

I find the order that I do the cabinet in makes a difference in final looks. I like to veneer the back first, then wrap the next piece down one side, bend it around the front (provided the edges have been rounded over), then down the other side. Then attach the top and bottom. Which one you do first doesn't matter. The important part is putting the top and bottom on last. That way if you didn't get the veneer to lay perfectly flat all the way around the corners you can fill any voids and the top and bottom pieces will cover it up.

Once the veneer is on and trimmed then you finish it just like you would any other piece of wood furniture. How smooth you initially sand everything to depends ho whether you are going to apply stain/dye and the type of finish you are going to use.

 
Mike

[baniels]

The important part is putting the top and bottom on last. That way if you didn't get the veneer to lay perfectly flat all the way around the corners you can fill any voids and the top and bottom pieces will cover it up.

There's some wisdom in this tip. Thanks for sharing.

[jeffh]

How did you keep the seams from shrinking and pulling apart from the heat. I had a problem with this even with 22.2mil laminated backed veneer.

Mike

The speakers I built were just a little smaller than the LGK's, so I used a single piece of veneer to wrap all four sides.  The only seam is the one seam in the back. On the back, I trimmed one side just a bit longer than the centerline. Then, I started working in from both sides with the iron. Once I was at the center with the iron and the veneer was overlapping, I made a cut with a straight edge and a razor through both layers of veneer.  It did shrink a little. So, I took my left over veneer, cut some very thin slivers and glued them into the crack. Once I sanded and applied the finish you have to look real close to tell.

[randytsuch]

Thanks for the advice guys.

I have changed my mind again, decided against the vacuum press.  Maybe later after a few projects, but too large an investment at this point.

So, current thought is using clamps to apply pressure, using raw (no paper or raw backing) veneer.
In the past, I built a "clamp" using 2x4's and threaded rods with nuts.  Just drill some holes in the 2x4's, and run the rods through the holes.  HD carries the rods.  They are easy and inexpensive, so I may use that approach again if I think I need more clamping than I have now.

I am also planning to veneer each face individually, and not try to round over the corners.  I have a laminate router to trim the excess veneer.

I'll start a new thread about my "adventure" when I get into the actual veneering and finishing.

Randy

[baniels]

The flatpacks are back in stock on my site. 6 pairs available to ship tomorrow.

[BK_856er]

Really great experience dealing with Ben (baniels) and his new CNC operation Subassemble.

Quality and precision of the LGK flatpack is terrific, not to mention the pdf guide and rapid communications.  It's clear he takes pride in his work and values his customers.  I fear access to various flatpacks will really fuel my speaker building sickness.

Keep up the good work!   

BK

[randytsuch]

Any updates on when the drivers will arrive?

Wondering if they shipped before New Years.

Randy

[Danny Richie]

Any updates on when the drivers will arrive?

Wondering if they shipped before New Years.

Randy

That was the goal. To get them out before the Chinese new year.

I was just informed that did not happen. So their arrival is going to be delayed a couple of weeks. 

[IronForge]

Oh, I'll figure out something for an on wall or sound bar. I might fire the port out to the side or something.

I would love to see a close to the wall mount for my TV.  Left n' right, or LCR would be nice.
Something low cost that I can hook up to one of my spare HT receivers. (set speakers to small)

The Gen2 sonicap would work for me if I can avoid the inline filter.

I don't think I have any room in this area for dedicated low freq, but my main goal is to improve the built in tv speakers which are junk.  I have a separate HT if I want bass.

[Danny Richie]

I would love to see a close to the wall mount for my TV.  Left n' right, or LCR would be nice.
Something low cost that I can hook up to one of my spare HT receivers. (set speakers to small)

The Gen2 sonicap would work for me if I can avoid the inline filter.

I don't think I have any room in this area for dedicated low freq, but my main goal is to improve the built in tv speakers which are junk.  I have a separate HT if I want bass.

In the works for sure. I just need to figure out a good shape that works. They need to be easy to mount, but the high Q driver still needs a fair amount of air space for its size.

And if you have a receiver that allows you to select speaker sizes then you don't need any inline filter. Just set speaker size to "Small". Or if you aren't trying to power them hard then you can run them full range. Anything less than 15 watts or so isn't going to hurt them running full range. You can pound on them all you want with a little amp so long as it doesn't clip.

[IronForge]

In the works for sure. I just need to figure out a good shape that works. They need to be easy to mount, but the high Q driver still needs a fair amount of air space for its size.

And if you have a receiver that allows you to select speaker sizes then you don't need any inline filter. Just set speaker size to "Small". Or if you aren't trying to power them hard then you can run them full range. Anything less than 15 watts or so isn't going to hurt them running full range. You can pound on them all you want with a little amp so long as it doesn't clip.

I plan to use a Panasonic SA-XR25 (should be fine if I don't crank it up? How high too you think is too high?)
Home Theater Power: 100W x 6 (1kHz, 6 ohms, 0.9% THD)
Stereo Power: 100W x 2 (20Hz-20kHz, 6 ohms, 0.3% THD)

I'll have to put a note on receiver "Do not turn up to 11!!".
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xgx4k83zzc


From the manual: (looks like the built in filter should fit nicely)
If you set the front speakers to “SMALL”,
the filter is set to 100 Hz. Raise the cut-off
if the bass from the front speakers is
unsatisfactory so that this bass is output
through the subwoofer.
You can raise the cut-off from 100 Hz to
either 150 Hz or 200 Hz.

[Danny Richie]

Man, that will drive them fine.

If you set the filter to the 100Hz setting then they will take quite a bit of power. And it is better to have too much power than not enough. Better to have headroom than be on the verge of clipping all the time.

[dlparker]

Man, that will drive them fine.

If you set the filter to the 100Hz setting then they will take quite a bit of power. And it is better to have too much power than not enough. Better to have headroom than be on the verge of clipping all the time.

And here the clipping referring to is in the speaker itself, right?

[bdp24]

Man, that will drive them fine.

If you set the filter to the 100Hz setting then they will take quite a bit of power. And it is better to have too much power than not enough. Better to have headroom than be on the verge of clipping all the time.

Speaking from experience, using a too-small-of-an-amp is the easiest way to fry a tweeter 

[dlparker]

Speaking from experience, using a too-small-of-an-amp is the easiest way to fry a tweeter 

I was more than a little incredulous in the late 70s/early 80s when I was told that I fried one of two altec-lansing 10"  speakers with a Fender Tremolux head (two 6L6s). Can't remember the model number but it was their equivalent at the time to the JBL x110 series. They attributed it to the  amp clipping. Oddly enough, that's the only time I've ever blown a speaker, and at some point my preference for output tubes became 6V6s.. And I love that overdriven 6V6 tube sound.

[Bob in St. Louis]

And here the clipping referring to is in the speaker itself, right?

No.... 
It's referring to the amp itself.
It's better to use a 500 watt amp on a 10 watt speaker, than a 10 watt amp on a 500 watt speaker.
Just be mindful to not turn the volume knob to the point where you hear distortion.

[IronForge]

Danny,

Would something like this work?
(monoprice speaker bracket, 33lb rating)
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082804&p_id=6839&seq=1&format=2

Using the bracket above, would the rear port work or would we have to side or front port?  I was planning to mount to the left and right of the TV.

[Danny Richie]

Danny,

Would something like this work?
(monoprice speaker bracket, 33lb rating)
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082804&p_id=6839&seq=1&format=2

Using the bracket above, would the rear port work or would we have to side or front port?  I was planning to mount to the left and right of the TV.

I'll figure out a way to allow it to mount flat on the wall. I might even run the port out the bottom.

[IronForge]

I'll figure out a way to allow it to mount flat on the wall. I might even run the port out the bottom.

Bottom port would be nice.  I have carpeted floor myself.  Would it make any difference with bottom port and hardwood floor?