[BobM]

I'm looking at a new tonearm to replace my old Audioquest PT6. The Michell Technoarm and Origin Live arms are always mentioned together, and seem similar in that they improve on the old Rega RB250 design.

So, any comparisons of the two?

Any comments on each of their improvements (sonically and technically)?

Any suggestions for a different arm upgrade at about the $1000 or so level?

Thanks,
Bob

PS: I have a custome made non-suspended turntable using VPI parts (motor and MK III platter and bearing) and a solid 1" Corian plinth.

[bluesky]

Hi

I am just about to replace my Origin Live Silver Taper tonearm with the Michell Tecnoarm.  I believe the Michell is made to higher standards than the Silver but there won't be that much in it.  I got the Silver as a demo for a very good price and will actually be slightly in front after selling the Silver tonearm.

You may like to read the Michell Tecnoarm review on TNT.

Cheers

Bluesky

[bluesky]

Well, I have the Tecnoarm now and.........I am quite disappointed in it.  Not because of the sound but because the arm came out of the box with quite a number of scratches on it and casting dags left over from the original casting process.

I would have expected a $1,000 plus arm to go through some sort of quality control and a bit of superficial polishing to remove any scratches and large casting dags fom the arm tube.  I may have been just unlucky and got one from an early Monday morning shift, but still, I was expecting more from a company that has a reputation for solid engineering like Michell.  

Bluesky

[BobM]

I went in a slightly different direction and bought a Moerch DP6. A bit more expensive than the other options mentioned here, but I am very satisfied overall. The machining is excellent, it looks great and the sound is truly transparent and detailed. Everything I was looking/hoping for.

Enjoy,
Bob

[DARTH AUDIO]

Bob, where did you buy the Morch DP6? What table and cart. are you using with the Morch DP6?

Thanks,

Gary

[BobM]

I have a rather unique table. It's got a VPI stand alone motor and a MK III bearing and platter. All this mounted on a 1" Corian plinth. It's non-suspended, using 1" threaded Chrome rods and rather large chrome nuts, top and bottom to secure these feet. It sits on a maple butcher block with DIY rollerblocks underneath as a suspension. Very pretty. Think about a better looking, and maybe a better sounding, version of the Scout.

I'm using a Dynavector 20X-H cartridge. All this into a Hagerman Coronet (with better caps and NOS tubes).

I bought the DP6 on a private deal, not from a dealer. It came with the Moerch DIN-RCA interconnect, which looks to be silver wire to me at first glance. I haven't tried to swap that out for my old copper DIN-RCA interconnect yet to see what the difference may be, but it sounds damn fine right now.

There's been a few good deals on UP4 arms on Audiogon lately, but they get picked up pretty fast.

Enjoy,
Bob

[randytsuch]

Hi Bob,
I was just talking to Larry at Hollywood about your table.

A few days ago he suggested I make a corian plinth for my table.  I decided to give it a go, and I saw some of your posts at AA saying how much you like your table.

I am starting with am Empire 208.  The only parts I am using from it are the bearing, platter and motor.  Bought a rb-250 arm, which I will rewire, and add the michell counterweight to.  Larry thinks I will be happy when I am done with this, will see.

Randy

[JoshK]

I have been thinking about doing a constrained layer for the sub base of my plinth and corian would make a killer layer.  Where did you source your corian?  Regular HD or sink store?

[randytsuch]

I have been thinking about doing a constrained layer for the sub base of my plinth and corian would make a killer layer.  Where did you source your corian?  Regular HD or sink store?

ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/Large-Piece-Seashell-Corian-solid-surface_W0QQitemZ5992305817QQcategoryZ20594QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewIte
Shipping was kind of high, but you are closer to them.

I tried locally, but most places just sell it, I think there are just a few factories around here that actually fab it.  The one fab place I found wanted $75 for a 15x20 in. piece.  I am sure this was from a sink cutout, so it was really already paid for, what at ripoff.

Right now, I am just going to glue two pieces of corian together, to make a 1 inch plinth.  I am trying to get the glue from ebay too.

Randy

[BobM]

Here's a suggestion - find a kitchen contractor, or better yet, a Corian countertop contractor. More than likely they have sink cutouts from past jobs. For a fairly modest fee they will probably bond 2 together for you (making a 1" slab) and cut it to shape.

One suggestion - don't overdamp it. I like it natural with no dampening material stuck to it. A nice "live" sound. Others have reported a tightening up of the sound when using isodamp and the like stuck to the bottom. If you want to try that I would use it sparingly and strateghically. But because of this, I would strongly suggest a stand-alone motor and not one directly mounted to the Corian.

Good luck
Bob

[randytsuch]

Here's a suggestion - find a kitchen contractor, or better yet, a Corian countertop contractor. More than likely they have sink cutouts from past jobs. For a fairly modest fee they will probably bond 2 together for you (making a 1" slab) and cut it to shape.

One suggestion - don't overdamp it. I like it natural with no dampening material stuck to it. A nice "live" sound. Others have reported a tightening up of the sound when using isodamp and the like stuck to the bottom. If you want to try that I would  ...

I was trying to find a kitchen contractor, all the ones I called just buy the corian countertops already made, and just install them.  So, at least around here, I could not find a contractor that comes to your house, and fabs everything at your house.  I think we make the stuff in a local place, and they just come and drop it on top of your cabinets.  I could see how that is more efficient.

Randy