How Do I Remove a Woofer? (gotta perform maintenance on the crossover)

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FullRangeMan

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+1 on hook. I would use a small or thin dentist hook in the screw holes to move the driver.

js1955

+1 on hook. I would use a small or thin dentist hook in the screw holes to move the driver.

Not gonna work if really stuck.  Plus, OP already said he tried it......unsuccessfully.

Doublej

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If it were my speaker, I would:

1. As previously mentioned, gently heat the metal flange to soften the adhesive.
2. Gently try to rotate the driver left and right. Expecting it to not move (but you might get lucky). If it moves keep working it until it frees up.
3. Try to insert a pick into each screw hole and rotate it 360 degrees in each screw hole to loosen the adhesive at each screw hole.
4. Use the pick to try to gently pull up the driver a bit at each screw hole. If the driver moves a bit, repeat the sequence a few times until the driver is freed.

Just be warned that my friends have nicknamed me Wile (Coyote).

richidoo

Put speaker upright. Remove all mounting screws except one screw on top to hold the driver when it comes loose so it doesnt fall out. Use the threads of a screw on angle in a bottom mounting hole to grip the frame and pull it out. To avoid damaging the black paint around the screw hole wrapthin layer masking tape around threads. If you need more pulling power use larger size machine screw or even a screw eye. The weight of the motor will help pull out the driver when the top screw provide axis. Gentle heating very warm to the touch is fine. Good luck!!

mresseguie

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A BIG  :thumb: and heartfelt thank you to WGH and Zuman for their combined suggestions to use non-wood screws or bolts. I used eight slightly oversized threaded bolts to add even pressure around the gasket. Then, because the driver was being stubborn, I used a claw hammer (with plenty of padding against the front baffle) to 'pop' the gasket free. In my very layman's opinion, the combined pressure from eight bolts and the claw hammer were enough to strike fear into the stubborn gasket that it gave up its fight without so much as a whimper - and there's no damage to the underlying MDF.

All three copper coil inductors snapped free of their zip tie anchors. I suspect that had they also been hot glued to the crossover boards, I would not have this issue. The inductors appear to have unrolled a half-turn, and I'll zip tie them back to their <presumably> original windings before gluing and zip tying them onto the boards. I think I can repair the damage on my own. I can understand why the largest/heaviest inductor snapped free of the zip ties, but the smallest one is quite light. The clever 'three-lettered' shipping company ending in the letter 'S' employee must have gotten creative with his exeriment to maximize the sheer force required to cause all three inductors to snap free of their restraints. I hope he lost his job.

Free beers to all who participated in this driver removal adventure, but ya gotta come to my house to take advantage of my reward, or meet up at Pacific Audio Fest this Fall.  :beer: 

mresseguie

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On to the crossovers...three photos for your enjoyment. Three inductors escaped their zip tie anchors. I'll use an super duper adhesive to bond each inductor onto the crossover board below. There are two damaged resistors - one lead pulled out/snapped off on each. I'll need to replace them.

I still need to open up the other speaker to inspect it for damage.








If I can't find the exact same brand of resistors to replace the two damaged resistors, does it matter if I use a different brand so long as the values are the same?

Tyson

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Mundorf is good quality for not too much money.  As long as it's the same value, you are fine:

https://partsconnexion.com/collections/mundorf-resistor-collection

mresseguie

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Thank you, Tyson!  :thumb: