AudioCircle
Audio/Video Gear and Systems => Power Conditioning => Topic started by: Sonny on 3 Aug 2016, 03:15 pm
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Hi there, looking for a simple and good surge protector.
No need for fancy conditioning, etc. What are your suggestions?
Tripp Lite? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000511U7/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000511U7/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
Others?
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I use that model Tripp lite. I have my doubts as to whether it can do what it says it can do, but it's better than most at a reasonable cost.
Doc
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I use that model Tripp lite. I have my doubts as to whether it can do what it says it can do, but it's better than most at a reasonable cost.
Doc
Thanks Doc. Wire Cutter likes the Tripp Lite models...anyone else?
T
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I am interested in that model as well. I was thinking about a Brick Wall or Surgex but they do not have a replacement warranty that I can see for damaged gear. I am also looking at Panamax models.
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Definitely go SurgeX, Zero Surge or Brick Wall. They won't wear out or dump energy to ground like MOV based surge protectors. If you want them cheaper get them used, I wouldn't consider any other solution, as it's far inferior to the Zero Surge patented technology.
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Definitely go SurgeX, Zero Surge or Brick Wall. They won't wear out or dump energy to ground like MOV based surge protectors. If you want them cheaper get them used, I wouldn't consider any other solution, as it's far inferior to the Zero Surge patented technology.
Thanks but do you have some models you recommend? I can see using a powerstrip or so plugged into one of these to give more outlets. That should be fine, no?
T
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https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/power-cables/supra-mains-power-distribution-block-md06-us/
I bought this and it is a well built and reasonably sounding strip that has been bought as a closeout by Madisound it sounds to me. Heavy duty aluminum with very high grade outlets, as all Supra electrical products. :thumb:
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Thanks but do you have some models you recommend? I can see using a powerstrip or so plugged into one of these to give more outlets. That should be fine, no?
T
I'd avoid MOVs entirely, most powerstrips have them.
Any model would be fine, but I'd go for a 20 amp model with enough outlets for all your components.
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Thoughts:
a] The best place for surge protection is the service entrance to the building/main breaker panel.
For point of use protection.
b] SurgeX, Zero Surge or Brick Wall units are an order of magnitude better than MOV units.
c] SurgeX, Zero Surge or Brick Wall units are an order of magnitude more expensive than MOV units.
If you go with MOV units.
d] Tripp lite is an top brand.
e] If you use more than one point of use unit in the audio/video system make sure that all the units are the same brand and model. You want all the units to kick-in at the same spike voltage.
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I use that model Tripp lite. I have my doubts as to whether it can do what it says it can do, but it's better than most at a reasonable cost.
Doc
+1
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I'd avoid MOVs entirely, most powerstrips have them.
Any model would be fine, but I'd go for a 20 amp model with enough outlets for all your components.
20A models will likely have a 20A male plug. Thus most are screwed with this.
15A will be fine for sure.
http://www.zerosurge.com/residential/residential-products/8-outlet-models/
They have 10 outlet models too.
Call Donna and she will take care of you.
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20A models will likely have a 20A male plug. Thus most are screwed with this.
No matter which model you get you should cut off the molded AC plug, even if it's replaced with the cheapest model you can find at home depot the wire clamps are far better than molded plugs.
I'd go for a used SurgeX over a new Zero Surge though, the SurgeX has other features that are worthwhile imo.
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I use the tripp lite isobar ultra, built like a tank, very basic (in a good way).
I also use and really like the APC G5blk. It provides some nice features, like a display to check line voltage, tons of indicator leds that can be turned off, and a programmable power on/off sequence for the outlets. Theres also a ground lug in tge back to help with ground loops i think.
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I'd go for a used SurgeX over a new Zero Surge though, the SurgeX has other features that are worthwhile imo.
I'd be hesitant about buying any used surge protector. You just never know what they've been through.
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No matter which model you get you should cut off the molded AC plug, even if it's replaced with the cheapest model you can find at home depot the wire clamps are far better than molded plugs.
Huh?
Why? What is that going to do for you?
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Huh?
Why? What is that going to do for you?
If it's not broke don't fix it.
It's trickier to replace a heavy cord plug, than some realize.
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If it's not broke don't fix it.
It's trickier to replace a heavy cord plug, than some realize.
Yeah, I never said to replace it...
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No matter which model you get you should cut off the molded AC plug, even if it's replaced with the cheapest model you can find at home depot the wire clamps are far better than molded plugs.
I'd go for a used SurgeX over a new Zero Surge though, the SurgeX has other features that are worthwhile imo.
That would null it's UL listing.
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I use the tripp lite isobar ultra, built like a tank, very basic (in a good way).
I also use and really like the APC G5blk. It provides some nice features, like a display to check line voltage, tons of indicator leds that can be turned off, and a programmable power on/off sequence for the outlets. Theres also a ground lug in tge back to help with ground loops i think.
Again, +1
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Huh?
Why? What is that going to do for you?
Plugs with wire clamps are always an improvement over molded plugs, Shunyata tested this with their dynamic transient current test... Also, few folks have 20A receptacles for the 20A plugs. Installing a decent plug will definitely make for an overall improvement in sound.
SS, Replacing a plug is very easy, I'm sure Sonny can handle it ;)
rif, I'd never say to get a used MOV based surge protector but the Zero Surge module is different and even if the caps are worn it still works with slightly more let through voltage. The 3 electrolytic caps used in the surge module are easily replaced. I'd still take a 20 year old Zero Surge over any MOV based unit.
Wayner, no it does not. I know a lot about UL requirements and the fact is every hardware store sells replacement plugs. Using them does not invalidate the UL listing of any device you replace a plug on.
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Plugs with wire clamps are always an improvement over molded plugs, Shunyata tested this with their dynamic transient current test...
Possibly one of the dumbest tests ever.
Calling something a virtue (radio frequency response of an AC power line) that audiophiles buy a power conditioner (filter) to reduce.
Also, few folks have 20A receptacles for the 20A plugs. Installing a decent plug will definitely make for an overall improvement in sound.
The only reason for a 20A receptacle is if you have molded 20A plugs. As a the internal receptacle parts are designed for 20A. The only difference is the plug slot.
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Plugs with wire clamps are always an improvement over molded plugs, Shunyata tested this with their dynamic transient current test...
They are a mass marketing audiophile company.
Also, few folks have 20A receptacles for the 20A plugs. Installing a decent plug will definitely make for an overall improvement in sound.
Yes, I know. This is exactly why I recommended a 15A model above when you said to get a 20A and cut the end off. Sorry but that's insanity.
SS, Replacing a plug is very easy, I'm sure Sonny can handle it ;)
...and totally unnecessary.
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Had a lightning strike a few days ago. Took out a Tripp Lite surge protector. It happened during a listening session. Surprisingly no harm to my audio gear. Did lose 2 tv's that were on surge protectors we purchased from Dish.
The Tripp protector worked. Rated for 3840 joules. My insurance guy is going to recommend the Tripp units for his clients.
I do have a Tripp Lite power conditioner in front of the surge protectors. Still passing electric but cannot say it does much else..
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Thanks all for the comments. I am going to go with the Tripp Lite for now, mainly due to price and I read a review on the Supra and it said that it did affect the sound.
Have any of you using the Tripp Lite notice any changes with and without it in?
Thanks
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Scout around on eBay for the Tripp Lites - I was able to find a box of 6 brand new Isobar Ultra 4 (4 outlet) models for $120 shipped in 2014 when I decided it was time to take a slightly more serious approach to power protection. I use them for TV and ancillary electronics so can't comment on any sound impact.
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Sonny.
Personally I have not found them to have any effect on sq..
Your setup is probably more revealing than mine though..
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I put a TrippLite Isobar on my wife's system and it sounds absolutely dreadful. I only keep it there because my wife doesn't care and won't notice. As Dave indicated, a used SurgeX (which I have on my main system) is far superior in function and in sound quality, and won't cost much more than a new TrippLite.
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Thanks all for the comments. I am going to go with the Tripp Lite for now, mainly due to price and I read a review on the Supra and it said that it did affect the sound.
Have any of you using the Tripp Lite notice any changes with and without it in?
Thanks
No. I also have an Emotiva CMX-2 DC offset filter ahead of the Tripp-lites. Sounds Great. I also listen in near field, so I can pretty much hear everything.
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Wayner, you noticeable effect on the sound with the Tripp lite that you can hear?
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I'd probably go with this one for all the reasons Dave mentioned.
http://www.staples.ca/en/Belkin-F9D100015-10-Outlet-885-J-Surge-Protectors/product_166389_2-CA_1_20001
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If you're not going to get something like the Surge-X and instead do go with an MOV-based surge protector, the MOV lifespan is cumulative and the Tripp Lite Isobar Ultra will give you 3840 joules worth of supression compared to the Belkin's 885 joules.
Steve
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So,
I chose the SurgeX, the 4 outlet version and have been using it with good results. No noticeable degradation of sonics and here in Gig Harbor, WA, we've had a few storms this fall/winter resulting in power outages. All have been working wonderfully except one thing. I have built and used my DIY Pass XONO phono stage for a number of years now, and since it's been plugged into the SurgeX, when left overnight, the fuse has gone bad TWICE! This has never happened before even when left on for days/weeks directly connected to the wall or normal, non MOV, power strip. I have no reason to believe anything but there might be something going on between the XONO's power supply and the SurgeX?
Thoughts?
Thanks
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If you're not going to get something like the Surge-X and instead do go with an MOV-based surge protector, the MOV lifespan is cumulative and the Tripp Lite Isobar Ultra will give you 3840 joules worth of supression compared to the Belkin's 885 joules.
Steve
Yeah I would probably do that one first.
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I'm biased since I live in NJ. I went to visit ZeroSurge yesterday and picked up model 8R15W. The nicest people to deal with! The thing is built like a tank and they stand behind their products. It's been plugged in for a day. I can say there's any noticeable difference in sound good or bad. I'm happy to have my equipment protected.
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Are not ZeroSurge. Brickwall and SurgeX all ZeroSurge's IP or licence? I went with Zero Surge because its the same guts but cheaper.
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I have the BrickWall line filter for the last 10 years and never looked back at all the BS that went on for years about some expensive line filters. Been there done that. As in the Surge X it never restricted as in degradation to the sound.
AQ has a $10k surge filter whatever called the Niagara? :scratch:
Geeeze stupidity!
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Yes, ZeroSurge, Brickwall and SurgeX all use the same (IP) technology.
I think that the differences are in the add-on features.
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I wonder if we could get ZeroSurge to offer an Audio Circle special?
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just bought a SurgeX used on ebay for under $100. 6 receptacles, 8 amps. Some of the two receptacles have gone for $50
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I bought a new Surge X for $150 on ebay about 9 mos. ago. There are a lot of used ones there for cheaper.
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just bought a SurgeX used on ebay for under $100. 6 receptacles, 8 amps. Some of the two receptacles have gone for $50
I've always been hesitant about buying used surge equipment since you never know what abuse or surges it's had to handle. Is that a valid concern?
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Yes, it's a bit of a gamble. This one has a 30 day return option. But it's easy to test- push the "Test" button.
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I've always been hesitant about buying used surge equipment since you never know what abuse or surges it's had to handle. Is that a valid concern?
Yes, with MOV based gear I'd avoid entirely as they wear out. With the SurgeX/etc. type devices there are electrolytic caps that can wear out (they are easily replaceable) but even if they are worn the surge suppression will still work to a large degree. SurgeX/etc. does not use MOVs or dump surge energy to ground.
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Sorry to revive an old thread, but this seems to be the place for this.
In my new apartment, every time the air kicks on I get a small pop through the speakers. I assume this is ... bad. And I further assume I need some kind of surge suppressor. (?)
Having read the thread, it seems like non-MOV is the way to go. And in looking for the cheapest thing I can get away with, I see this Zero Surge on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Zero-Surge-Power-Quality-Filter-Surge-Protector-2R7-5W-ZeroSurge-New-In-Box/382160918001
My question: Is 7.5 amps enough for power amp, buffer, and DAC? Or do I need something beefier? Or a different direction altogether?
Appreciate any thoughts, thanks.
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Sorry to revive an old thread, but this seems to be the place for this.
In my new apartment, every time the air kicks on I get a small pop through the speakers. I assume this is ... bad. And I further assume I need some kind of surge suppressor. (?)
Having read the thread, it seems like non-MOV is the way to go. And in looking for the cheapest thing I can get away with, I see this Zero Surge on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Zero-Surge-Power-Quality-Filter-Surge-Protector-2R7-5W-ZeroSurge-New-In-Box/382160918001
My question: Is 7.5 amps enough for power amp, buffer, and DAC? Or do I need something beefier? Or a different direction altogether?
Appreciate any thoughts, thanks.
Honestly, I don't know... but I think there's some chance the unit will limit dynamics. I'd look for a 20A unit.
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Try the Tripp-Lite Isobar mentioned many times in this thread, it is good at filtering out noise.
The Isobar Ultra 4 is only $38.71 at Home Depot and if it doesn't stop the pops you can return it.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Tripp-Lite-Isobar-4-6-ft-Cord-with-4-Oulet-Strip-ISOBAR4ULTRA/203139329 (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Tripp-Lite-Isobar-4-6-ft-Cord-with-4-Oulet-Strip-ISOBAR4ULTRA/203139329)
(https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/b1b6ff5c-360a-4856-8bed-f5d158d86fa3/svn/black-tripp-lite-surge-protectors-isobar4ultra-64_1000.jpg)
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Possibly one of the dumbest tests ever.
Calling something a virtue (radio frequency response of an AC power line) that audiophiles buy a power conditioner (filter) to reduce.
The only reason for a 20A receptacle is if you have molded 20A plugs. As a the internal receptacle parts are designed for 20A. The only difference is the plug slot.
SPEED you might want to bust open some import wall plugs, they are not what they used to be, and yet some how get past inspection
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your best bet for surge is a lightning arrester on your main panel, they are beer can big, but throw current down your ground before it ever gets into house, this can stop fires as well, a friend had a dam can opener burn his house down from a lighting surge. yea like nuts huh. the fire Marshall took it for a exhibit he was building on fire craziness. if its a good hard lightning strike, nothing will protect you, the flash will just travel across all you got and flame out on your rig. This is devil DC current, it plays by even less rules then AC.
Most all these devices have big LEDS on them pumping noise into your system, I remove LEDS for a $ charge from equipment, unless its a junk amp, I promise audible results in the mid highs, this is old news.
when my system is on, it looks off. Marantz made a huge leap in turning its display off, that almost anyone can hear.
The only light i trust on a system, is a small neon, I THINK, jury still pending. many switches still use these.
Ferrite chokes are on almost all this stuff which adds a bit of boom smear to many a system.
you can remove these with no loss of protection and get a tighter low. but if you have a bass lean system, it can sound better with a ferret laden protector cause the dam doughnut choke is adding bass-period.
Monster made a raved about tap bar that STEREOPHILE said was great, I have it, plug it in more bass, unplug,,,less.
And all the above is most always true, but some times, none of it apply's and you get a more hypnotic sounding rig with junk hanging all over it.
Dam I wish there were more all the times rules
This is funny as hell, I put radio shack chokes on a guys main panel breaker wires out-
when he turns on his 240 dryer, they buzz, if you bang on them they stop, I think they need to just hang a certain way to vibrate.
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Sorry to drag this back up but I’m exploring the same topic and surprised that Furman isn’t mentioned. Those models that include SMP protection not only seem more effective but also a better option as used item - since it doesn’t wear out.