[undertowogt1]

Hi Guys,

I wasn't sure where to post this question, but I  figured the OB guys would have a decent amount of experience with Veneer. I am currently refurbishing my Original Large Advent Speakers, including reforming, re grilling and doing a layer of Veneer as the current finish is really bad. I did some research and came to the conclusion that a product called TITEBOND III WOOD GLUE would be the best adhesive for my Veneer. When I looked at the Veneer product box it says to use Contact Cement. So what do you think? Any experience with this? I don't want to waste 50 bucks in Veneer using the wrong adhesive.

Also: This is my first time using Veneer
The Veneer is Red Oak, Paperbacked.

[ebag4]

I have had good luck with a product called Heat Lock.  You put it on the veneer and the surface getting the veneer, let it dry and the use a warm iron to apply it.  This allows you to place the veneer where you want it without it sticking in the wrong spot, contact cement does not allow that freedom.  The one caution would be not to use too much heat, it could cause the veneer to split.

Good luck,
Ed

[TomS]

+1 on Heat Lock. Their site also has great first timer tips.

With no prior experience, I did my first few veneer projects with it and was very happy with the results. I used an old cotton t-shirt between the iron and the veneer to manage the heat.

[Wayner]

Contact cement. I done several speakers with it and the results are great. Available at any hardware store.

[Peter J]

For your needs I'd also recommend HeatLock. It forms a hard glue line which is desirable and is specifically designed for task. Titebond 1 will also work, but really has no supporting documentation in this application. Contact cement would be a distant second choice and then I'd recommend something better than the stuff you get at hardware stores which is often crap IMO.

https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-18900N/Adhesives-Glue-Epoxy/3M-30NF-Contact-Adhesive-1-Quart-Neutral?pricode=WY489&gadtype=pla&id=S-18900N&gclid=CjwKEAjw-Oy_BRDg4Iqok57a4kcSJADsuDK1tszOylWSfLOZRWBSExFWi7TXTU2rdZK5UhshNcNc3BoCQfjw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

[JohnH12]

I've used Titebond 1 and Heatlock and like them both over contact cement.  Here's a good tutorial http://www.ohio.edu/people/schneidw/audio/veneering.html

[srb]

I've used Titebond 1 and Heatlock and like them both over contact cement.

Besides having no adjustment time, most contact cements are fairly nasty substances containing Toulene and Methyl Ethyl Ketone and are a notch or two more hazardous than the other mentioned alternatives.

Steve

[undertowogt1]

I've used Titebond 1 and Heatlock and like them both over contact cement.  Here's a good tutorial http://www.ohio.edu/people/schneidw/audio/veneering.html

Thanks all for the reply. I looked for heat lock in Canada but could not find any. It was going to cost an arm and a leg to ship from the US. After looking at the above tutorial I decided to stick with my Tite bond III.

thanks again.

[Peter J]

This is a case of more isn't better. Titebond 1 red label is what you want. Titebond III has a much higher re-emulsifying temp and really isn't well suited for iron on. I can dig up those temps but suffice to say your iron likely doesn't get that hot and even if it does, wood veneer doesn't like the high temps.

[undertowogt1]

This is a case of more isn't better. Titebond 1 red label is what you want. Titebond III has a much higher re-emulsifying temp and really isn't well suited for iron on. I can dig up those temps but suffice to say your iron likely doesn't get that hot and even if it does, wood veneer doesn't like the high temps.

Sounds good, you know your stuff.  All of these recommendations are super hard to find in Toronto Canada. I eventually found Titebond Original. Titebond Red is "Original" Right?

[Peter J]

Sounds good, you know your stuff.  All of these recommendations are super hard to find in Toronto Canada. I eventually found Titebond Original. Titebond Red is "Original" Right?

Yep, I think the 1 moniker was an outgrowth of their later offerings, II and later III. Original is the stuff. Most any standard PVA glue would work. Usually sold as wood glue, can be either white or yellow. There are tutorials on YouTube  that might be helpful.

[JohnH12]

Here are the reactivation temperatures
http://www.webherrera.com/blog/2009/04/19/titebonds-franklin-internationals-iron-on-instructions/9/

My tip would be to iron on right after the glue is dry within an hour or two.  Tap on the surface with a coin or your fingernail to find bubbles or lose spots. Oak can look bubbly as the wood swells differently across the surface, but is usually tight.  Let the wood acclimate for a few days or a week before sanding the surface.  I do route/ trim the edges right away and put on the next side within a few hours.

[undertowogt1]

Hi Guys,

I wasn't sure where to post this question, but I  figured the OB guys would have a decent amount of experience with Veneer. I am currently refurbishing my Original Large Advent Speakers, including reforming, re grilling and doing a layer of Veneer as the current finish is really bad. I did some research and came to the conclusion that a product called TITEBOND III WOOD GLUE would be the best adhesive for my Veneer. When I looked at the Veneer product box it says to use Contact Cement. So what do you think? Any experience with this? I don't want to waste 50 bucks in Veneer using the wrong adhesive.

Also: This is my first time using Veneer
The Veneer is Red Oak, Paperbacked.

Another question which may change all of the previous answers 

My Original Large Advents currently have vinyl veneer on them NOT a wood finish. The current finish is bonded pretty good and only has one small corner that is peeled a bit. I would think Original Tightbond would not stick to this material will it? I guess if I have to I can take a heat gun to them and try to peel the vinyl veneer off. I have also read that contact cement will adhere to vinyl veneer. Anyone have experience with this situation? I know this is vital information I forgot to share in the initial post

[undertowogt1]

Another Idea I had was to prime over the Vinyl Veneer first, them use glue for the wood Veneer?

[richidoo]

Source for vinyl wrap:
http://www.parts-express.com/Search.aspx?keyword=vinyl%20wood&sitesearch=true

[JohnH12]

Titebond would stick with a bit of sanding but I'm afraid the iron heat would cause bubbles and delamination in the existing vinyl.  I've done contact cement but was not happy with the edges

[undertowogt1]

Titebond would stick with a bit of sanding but I'm afraid the iron heat would cause bubbles and delamination in the existing vinyl.  I've done contact cement but was not happy with the edges

I read that the heat wou bubble up th vinyl as well. I may have to try contact cement

[undertowogt1]

Just an update for anyone interested.

I ended up priming over the Vinyl Veneer. I then used Tightbond Original to adhere the oak Veneer.  Turned out pretty good for my first veneer attempt , these speakers looked really bad before I did the new veneer. I guess time will tell if it stays on.



5663[/img]

[ebag4]

Nice job!

Best,
Ed