[SET Man]

Hey!



  Calling on woodworks expert!

  I think I'm running into a problem with my beloved DIY Single Driver speakers.

  Look like after 6 years with these babies I'm about to have a problem with the mounting screws turning loose. I said about because I usually go over my entire system once in a while cleaning and checking for anything loose.

   Yes, partly was due to the fact that I used to remove and remount the drivers often in the early part of their lives so I could fine tuning/voicing them. 

   I do tighten those speaker mounting screws a bit. And it seem like some of them are starting or going to turn loose with just a few more turn. So, I can't really tighten them up much now.

   Now the question... is there a safe way to fix this? It there something that I could fill in those holes to keep the screw tight without split the wood out? 

Take care,
Buddy

[SET Man]

Mr. Grip will work like a charm.

Hey!

     Thanks tvad4! That look like the great and simple fix solution!

     I will see if I could find one here in NYC area. Thanks again!

Take care,
Buddy

[SET Man]

Home Depot, Lowe's, Ace Hardware...they'll all have it.

Hey!

  Great! I will report back on the result of this fix.

Take care,
Buddy

[SET Man]

Since you're going to be removing an reinstalling your drivers, you might consider the tweak shown in this video from Virtual Dynamics.

http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?spkrfull&1215893841

Hey!

   Brilliant! Why didn't I think of this before! 

   It make sense since brass is softer than steel and have a lower resonant and that will definitely change the way the resonant transfer between the driver and the cab!

   How well will this work? Well.... Off to Home Depot tomorrow I go!

   Thanks again tvad4... it is good to see you back here.

Take care,
Buddy

[SET Man]

I'm just as intrigued by torquing all the screws equally using the Wheeler Fat Wrench torque tool.

Hey!

    I don't have that special screwdriver so I don't know what on that one.

     But will definitely try brass screws.

Take care,
Buddy

[jrebman]

So, what is this thing from virtual dynamics?  There is virtually no useful information ( at least in text) on this agon page.

Buddy, if you want the ultimate permanent fix, get some threaded brass inserts for wood (the kind with the coarse outer thread, not the knurled body) and a matching set of brass buttonhead cap screws -- #8 is a good size for most Fostex drivers.  What kind of wood is it -- BB or MDF? -- Jim

[SET Man]

So, what is this thing from virtual dynamics?  There is virtually no useful information ( at least in text) on this agon page.

Buddy, if you want the ultimate permanent fix, get some threaded brass inserts for wood (the kind with the coarse outer thread, not the knurled body) and a matching set of brass buttonhead cap screws -- #8 is a good size for most Fostex drivers.  What kind of wood is it -- BB or MDF? -- Jim

Hey!

   Hmmm... that will work too.

   I should think about this more throughly.  Don't want to screw this up 

  But! I'm getting some brass screws for sure!

Take care,
Buddy

[Grumpy_Git]

Hey there.

I like to use my dads trick of filling worn holes with matchstick offcuts, does the same job as that mr grip stuff and costs about £0.20 for 60!

You could drill out the holes and use t-nuts and bolts.

eg: ( http://www.cadaudio.dk/9505t.jpg )

Nick.

[Ed Schilling]

After you get them fixed and snugged down you might consider a small drop of super glue on the heads (NOT threads!)...it'll sure stick them to the driver and they will not loosen back up. Removing them will be no problem, the glue bond will shear easily, it just won't shake loose.
Of course this does not fix stripped threads....it just stops the bolts or screws from ever loosening again.

Trying like Hell to be helpful,
Ed

[chrisby]

careful with brass screws - particularly if you're stepping up a gauge.  They're much easier to break than you might think, with attendant headaches.

A bit of white wood glue on the matchsticks, and substitution of coarse thread "Lo-Root" wood screws of the same gauge would be another temporary alternative.

Jim's suggestion of threaded insert fittings and button head machine screws is probably the best bet - they take a bit more time to install than T-nuts, but are worth every bit of the effort. 

[BobM]

The matchsticks, or round toothpicks trick does work, to an extent. You still won't be able to torque things down all that tightly. But it is an effective and inexpensive tweak that I've also used in the past.


Just be sure to cut the heads off the matchsticks or your speakers might go up in a burst of flame on those loud dynamic passages.

Enjoy,
Bob

[SET Man]

After you get them fixed and snugged down you might consider a small drop of super glue on the heads (NOT threads!)...it'll sure stick them to the driver and they will not loosen back up. Removing them will be no problem, the glue bond will shear easily, it just won't shake loose.
Of course this does not fix stripped threads....it just stops the bolts or screws from ever loosening again.

Trying like Hell to be helpful,
Ed

Hey!

    Sound like a very idea Ed. Those screws do get loosen overtime. So this is Kindna like using Loctite red thread locker... but I think clear super glue will look better on speaker.

Take care,
Buddy

[dorokusai]

I use wood filler whenever I remove/install drivers. It's maleable(sp?) enough to fill the crevices, cheap and hardens to a decent proof. If I was restoring furniture, like a friend of mine, perhaps something more hardcore would be appropriate.

This is for generic extraction, casual removal...not broken holes or busted clamps. There are pro's that know more than I do....just offering an opinion for some simple stuff. I'm no newbie to a WTF issue but thankfully have a wood guru handy to help out. I wish he'd join.....

Mark

[SCompRacer]

I've used hardwood dowel rod in the past to repair badly stripped holes.  1/2" or 3/8" OD works well.  Carefully drill the hole so the rod is a tight fit.  Just rough up the surface of the hardwood dowel before gluing it in.  Hardware stores also sell dowel rod repair kits.  The OD is usually splined on them.