[walkern]

You are correct that the height of the Surplus Sales case is not quite tall enough for the transformer to be mounted upright to the bottom of the chassis.  You can just force the top on, at which time it buzzes like a fancy sex toy (hums like it completely forgot all the words?).  I've taken to just fitting the top mounted up about 3/4 of an inch by resting on the set screws instead of inserting the set screws through the designated holes in the sides of the top.  It's pretty sturdy that way, doesn't buzz or hum, but there's a 3/4" gap at the front and back which looks completely stupid (but does provide ventilation).  Needless to say, not an ideal scenario.  I suspect it MAY be possible to mount the transformer to the steel divider (sideways) and it MAY fit that way?  I was so done with fiddling with mine after I got everything hooked up (and I'm so thrilled with the sound) that I haven't gone back to investigate this option... but I may when I'm feeling more ambitious.
Needless to say, if anyone knows of another C & C chassis that will accommodate the amp, I too would be interested.  I have used cigar boxes in the past for amps with no apparent downside (no shielding issues), but the trick with those is finding one big enough to fit all the components into it.

[nik.d]

@KR500 and all (future) builders as well:

There's no particular reason this amp (or any other) has to be built with 'Hammond' or any other 'classical', 'EI' type of transformer. Toroidal transformers even offer
several benefits over 'EI' trafo, like lower magnetic & heat dissipation, mass, dimensions etc. If you are just starting your build, do not limit yourself by strictly following
every component. Toroidal transformer would be just fine and much easier to pack into planned enclosure. What really counts as 'advantage' of classical 'EI' trafo is
somewhat 'softer' start, meaning less stress to components after it (diodes, capacitors etc.) at startup.

George

[mlundy57]

Scott, did you get a charger  for your batteries yet, seem to recall yo uwere using your bike  "charger"
I've already got the 75ah  single 12v batter  and my C-TEK but it won't charge  2 of them  wired in  series, I don't want to have to re wire in parallel every time I want to cahrge

Been thinking of a setup that I could run my Dodd pre  at 12v, the folsom at 24v, and have a simple charging solutioin , a fw ideas but not sure any would actually work 

jay

Jay,

Let me know if you come up with something for this since it's the same setup I have.

Mike

[Captainhemo]

Jay,

Let me know if you come up with something for this since it's the same setup I have.

Mike

Yup, will do Mike

jay

[Folsom]

This 15v + 15v unit will work, first on the list. It may take several weeks to get it though. Plus it cost more. It's the closest thing to domestic as I know of at the moment. Antek is sold out and doesn't make to order I don't think.

[mlundy57]

I'm looking over the TDA7297 board to make sure I understand what goes where and have a few questions.





Mike

[Folsom]

You don't need to use the places you indicated.

LED? Well you'd have to bring the voltage down since they're typically only around 1-2v capable. I'd run an LED off of the Antipole's AUX outputs, to keep the noise away from the Amp board.

[mlundy57]

You don't need to use the places you indicated.

LED? Well you'd have to bring the voltage down since they're typically only around 1-2v capable. I'd run an LED off of the Antipole's AUX outputs, to keep the noise away from the Amp board.

Jeremy,

Thanks

Which ones are the Aux outputs on the Antipole?

Mike

[Folsom]

They're tiny, right behind the main outputs.

[mlundy57]

OK, Thanks

[mlundy57]

The Amp Camp Amps use Keratherm Transistor Insulators in place of mica and thermal paste. Will these work in this application?

http://diyaudiostore.com/products/keratherm-transistor-insulators

Mike

[Folsom]

Yes. Careful not to crush them.

[mlundy57]

Yes. Careful not to crush them.

Thanks

[lacro]

Mike, Looks like you will be making sound (or smoke ) pretty soon.

[mlundy57]

Mike, Looks like you will be making sound (or smoke ) pretty soon.

Larry,

Getting there. A few more things to order in first. I'm going to hold off on the chassis until I can lay the parts out and see what size I want.

I'm seriously thinking of building the first one in separate chassis with female Neutrik PowerCon connectors in the chassis and an interconnect with male PowerCon connectors to connect them.

Mike

[Peter J]

Would these cases work OK? I just happen to have two...

Utility knife there for size reference

[shadowlight]

Peter J,
Which cases are those?  How high are those?  If they are around 2.5 or 3" and are looking to sell let me know.

[mlundy57]

When it comes to on/off switches what parameters do I need to look for? Voltage seems pretty straight forward at 110-125V but what about amperage?

If I go with a lighted switch what voltage for the light? Would I still connect it to the aux position on the Antipole board?

If I put the amp and Antipole in separate boxes does the caution about not connecting the Antipole to the amp board with charged caps still hold? If so how do I work around it since I won't be able to discharge the caps inside the Antipole chassis?

Thanks,

Mike

[Folsom]

The switch can be just about anything, the amp operates under 1A at 120v. Few switches are rated under 5A even. I often use ones that are larger because I don't like the feel of tiny switches.

Yes you could connect the light to the AUX on the antipole if it fits the correct voltages the light needs. I don't know what light and what voltage it says, so I can't really answer that question.

You connect the two boxes before you ever turn it on, or discharge the capacitors on the Antipole before you connect it to the amp box. There's a place on the Antipole for a discharge resistor, but it might take a moment before they do. A 10k resistor would work.

[mlundy57]

The switch can be just about anything, the amp operates under 1A at 120v. Few switches are rated under 5A even. I often use ones that are larger because I don't like the feel of tiny switches.

Yes you could connect the light to the AUX on the antipole if it fits the correct voltages the light needs. I don't know what light and what voltage it says, so I can't really answer that question.

You connect the two boxes before you ever turn it on, or discharge the capacitors on the Antipole before you connect it to the amp box. There's a place on the Antipole for a discharge resistor, but it might take a moment before they do. A 10k resistor would work.

I was thinking about an on/off switch on the Antipole chassis, not necessarily on the amp chassis. Should I put a switch on both?

What is the voltage off the aux position on the Antipole? Maybe I can find a lighted switch to match.

With separate chassis the units will be disconnected and reconnected anytime the amp is switched out or the system reconfigured so having some way to discharge the caps in the Antipole would be a real help unless putting a second switch on the amp chassis would accomplish the desired results.

Where would the bleeder resistor go on the Antipole board?

Thanks

Mike