[zybar]

Replace the stock screws that hold the drivers in place with #8x1 pan head or round head brass screws.

What can expect to hear from the switch?

Improved focus and clarity are the main improvements.

Initial transient response is a touch faster too.

I also found a small improvement in sound stage and focus.

Not too bad for about $3 in screws.

If you do this...be careful in applying too much torque or pressure to the brass screws.  Brass can strip a lot easier than other metals.

I asked Louis to try this tweak and he was going to do it this past weekend.  Hopefully he will comment soon.

Besides improving the sound, the brass screws look sharp!!







George

[gbeard]

That's a very cool cheap tweak George!

I don't want to change mine until they are full broken-in (so hopefully I can hear the difference), but I will give them a try in the near future. You're right, they do look cool. Have you cryo'd them yet?   

I have another tweak for you to try--845 DHT SET! (Okay, so its not such a cheap tweak) Mine drives the heck out of the Super Alnico's!

I have to say, I have really loving what I hear from these new drivers.........

Gary

[mgalusha]

From Rick Schultz at Virtual Dynamics http://www.virtualdynamics.ca/the-oddiophile-eps--1/

[zybar]

From Rick Schultz at Virtual Dynamics http://www.virtualdynamics.ca/the-oddiophile-eps--1/

BTW, Mike is the person who brought this to my attention.

Thanks Mike!   

George

[Louis O]

Hi George,

Thanks for the tip and the brass really works. It's a great tweak and I recommend it highly. With single drivers that have nothing in the path from the amp you really hear subtle differences. I like the all the pluses George posted and also the overtones and the shading of the sound make for a great transition and better balance. It's subtle, but definitely there.

Also If you drill out new holes you will want to buy a steel screw of the same size and chase each hole or if you want to go larger such as a #10 screw. Brass is soft and needs this or they can shear off. Also make sure they are pure brass. This usually means a slotted screw, not Phillips.

Thanks again,
Louis

[DaveC113]

Just did this on my XRS... used #8 x 1" round head slotted wood screws. They aren't the same size as the originals as far as minor diameter and thread pitch (slightly wider and finer pitched), but fit fine and grip well. I torqued them evenly, and used a good bit more torque than the originals (its hard to tell id the improvement comes from the evenness and amount of torque applied to the bolts or the material... probably a mix of both). I used Bela Fleck and the Flecktones "The Sinister Minister" and Massive Attack "Group Four" for a brief evaluation.

Improvements:

• The first thing you notice is attack, leading edges are crisper and louder, Victor Wooten's bass is just FAST listened to through the XRS. I have a $1200 dual 10" + tweeter bass cab made by Epifani, same brand Victor uses (or used), and I think a bass cab for 120 Hz + using a half dozen or more 4.5" hempdrivers could sound really, really good.
• Tone is cleaner. Acoustic instruments and vocals sound better
• Soundstage is better, and imaging is also improved

Thanks for the tip!

Dave

[kbuzz3]

OK this raises two thoughts. One, Louis can make a few quick bucks on the side selling brass screw replacements to idiots like me who dont know how to even find them or buy the same size.

Second, I wonder what would happen if you slipped a herbie's audio lab washer under the screw. Not sure if it would fit or even if they make em that size but id bet it would be an interesting comparison.  Who knows maybe Louis and herbie (Steve) can co brand special washer and screw sets.  Id be first in line.MAybe it could be good insulation for omega if the economy is really going to take a downturn.  Hard to say in nyc where they are still "partying like its 1999."   

[rockadanny]

Did y'all make sure all of your original screws were well tightened before replacing them? After receiving my new speakers (not Omegas) I was surprised at how many needed tightening. I got improvement without changing them, just tightening.

[zybar]

Did y'all make sure all of your original screws were well tightened before replacing them? After receiving my new speakers (not Omegas) I was surprised at how many needed tightening. I got improvement without changing them, just tightening.

Yes, mine were all tight and had close to the same about of torque applied (the best I could do manually).

You are spot on in highlighting this.   

I have purchased products (not just speakers) in which screws were loose or even worse, missing.   

George

 

[JDK1]

Under the category of "over thinking it"  Has anyone compared solid brass against silicone bronze...A quick search indicates that silicone bronze is used in building boats and is considered a "good friction reduction material"...Like I said, over-thinking...
Jonathan

[Turk]

For those of you who wish to torque your brass screws, the link below identifies the torque screwdriver I purchased.  The problem with the gunsmithing tool identified by Virtual Dynamics is the scale begins at 5 inch pounds which can either snap or destroy the head of a #6 or #8 slotted solid brass wood screw.  The woodworking tool below goes down to 2 inch pounds.  Start there and work your way up. 

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=7689

[zybar]

For those of you who wish to torque your brass screws, the link below identifies the torque screwdriver I purchased.  The problem with the gunsmithing tool identified by Virtual Dynamics is the scale begins at 5 inch pounds which can either snap or destroy the head of a #6 or #8 slotted solid brass wood screw.  The woodworking tool below goes down to 2 inch pounds.  Start there and work your way up. 

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=7689

Thank you for that recommendation.

Much better than trying to guess.   aa

George

[dyson]

FWIW, higher quality domestic screws work best as these contain less lead and should also be a stronger screw. Beware of brass covered screws. fastenal.com ,mcmaster.com should have Phillips drive.   
 

dyson

[dyson]

Turk, I just checked out the link in your post and that looks like the one I use.  It works great and that's a great price. If memory serves, I paid more for mine. I just might pick up another one as I use it all the time on my road and mountain bike, car, etc.

Thanks for the heads up,
dyson

[Turk]

You are welcome.  They are handy gadgets just as you've said and the price is great. The commercial, high grade, precision versions of these can cost up to $300. I wonder if George has already ordered one aa  I mean the $35 model, of course

[zybar]

You are welcome.  They are handy gadgets just as you've said and the price is great. The commercial, high grade, precision versions of these can cost up to $300. I wonder if George has already ordered one aa  I mean the $35 model, of course

Yes I did Jerry.   

George

[tlrand]

This is worth the two bucks and trip to the hardware store.

#8 x 1" brass round headed wood screws are just a bit tighter than the stock screws in the XRS line, but it is an easy switch out.

Clarity really is better and timing seems a hair better.

My only other tip is to make sure that your screw driver head fits precisely in the screw.  I started with one a bit small and learned that brass is easy to mar when it didn't have good purchase to get that last twist.

 

[Louis O]

This is the best tweak for the money.
American screws would be the best. I've seen many that looked like brass and wasn't. You have to get slotted screws to make sure. Torquing them evenly is a big plus and I will be getting the tool for the shop.

If anyone ever noticed, I make sure to tighten all the screws and every speaker that has ever left the shop has the X of the Phillips head screw always lined up as an X. They are all even. If yours don't line up they have been removed. A tip if you ever buy used.

Thanks,
Louis