[Peter J]

I love your build videos on YouTube. Thank you so much.

I just ordered my flatpack for you yesterday and am getting ready to put everything together. In your assembly videos you use clamps. I don't have any clamps that are that big. I see that you used masking tape in these assembly pictures.

Can you compare and contrast the results using tape vs. clamps?

My assumption when I designed this was that you'd have clamps, a router with flush trimming and likely a profile cutter. Using tape would be an exercise in frustration, I'm sure. Just not enough clamping pressure to get the job done. The top and bottom are sized to be a snug fit...you'll see when you get the flat pack. Do it the way I show in video and you're golden.

Dry assemble, dry assemble, dry assemble. Don't forget to dry assemble and have a game plan. The markings you'll see on various parts are there for a reason...

Beg, borrow, purchase clamps and be a happy speaker builder. The masking tape you saw in photos was to glue corner pieces in. Cabinet was assembled at that point. There is  a place for masking tape in the glue up world, but this ain't it!

[Peter J]

Hey thanks Peter,

New question: The new batch of tube connectors either are larger than the old ones or the holes in my cabinet backs are too small. Any idea what size? I have only a 3/8 inch bit which is smaller than the existing hole, and a 1/2 inch spade bit which looks too big. I have to go buy a bit to expand the hole so wonder which is best. 7/16? Thanks for help.

Crap! I don't have a new one here to measure, the old ones fit perfectly. I did mic an old one and the largest diameter (rib) is .436-.438. Does someone have a micrometer they can measure a new one with?

I have used a 1/2" reamer to remove few thousands when I've had finish build up in the hole. I think that'd be your best bet. The 1/2 spade will surely bring you grief.

[Hobbsmeerkat]

I thought I remember hearing that there were going to be some small changes to the latest batch of Tube connectors, i think something to do with better stability when used in plastic binding cups?

[MokhaMark]

Hey Peter, no worries, I got a 7/16 bit. It took off some material and now they fit perfectly & snugly. Just an FYI to you and others on this batch that they will not fit in the existing holes without at least some shaving, but 7/16 does it perfect.

I am so excited to be near the end of my first ever build. I made some mistakes but none that will hurt the sound I hope.

Kudos to you for the great cabinet materials.

Mark

[Peter J]

I've been learning a new patina technique which I'll be showing in an upcoming video. 16 ga steel inset in sides and top.

Here's a preview.

[uncola]

won't be long before you're offering all aluminum flat packs and putting Magico out of business

[Hobbsmeerkat]

I've been learning a new patina technique which I'll be showing in an upcoming video. 16 ga steel inset in sides and top.

Im digging that idea!
Tho i do wonder how the mass of the steel glued to MDF affects the cabinet resonance. 🤔

[Peter J]

Im digging that idea!
Tho i do wonder how the mass of the steel glued to MDF affects the cabinet resonance. 🤔

I wondered that too. It's a full spread of notched silicone to adhere panels.  I can tell you it  takes all the *tink* out of them and adds a little over 2 lbs. of mass to cabinet.

[Hobbsmeerkat]

I wondered that too. It's a full spread of notched silicone to adhere panels.  I can tell you it  takes all the *tink* out of them and adds a little over 2 lbs. of mass to cabinet.

That pretty interesting, i imagine that no-rez would only further dampen the overall response , since the steel/MDF combo act as both mass loading and with the silicon adhesive, constrained layer damping (CLD), then once you add the no-rez you get a dense butyl-like layer on the inside to help absorb even more resonance...

(I made a thread about mass loading and CLD on the Lab circle) but haven't checked on it since then 2-3 months later, so i should probably go back to it to see what was said.. 

[AlexH]

I've been learning a new patina technique which I'll be showing in an upcoming video. 16 ga steel inset in sides and top.

Peter that looks fantastic. You have a good eye.

[Danny Richie]

Wow, that looks good.

[Skilly]

Would it be wrong to assume the video will be "riveting?"

[Hobbsmeerkat]

No idea but I'll definitely be glued to my seat

[Peter J]

Link to newest video showing patinated steel inserts

https://youtu.be/WeQklZ2nQuk

[Peter J]

Here's something I think is cool.

Scott is building a pair of X-LSs. He also restores old outboard motors. The color chosen matches 1958 Johnson outboard motor. I've linked to his YouTube channel.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3sI1mv9I7vglTOEWclyZtA?view_as=subscriber

[Hobbsmeerkat]

Link to newest video showing patinated steel inserts

https://youtu.be/D3CeZGKEac8

Great Video, Peter! 
Id love to see someone do something like that  with copper sheets, I love the green patina that forms when using copper. Having something like that would look fantastic imo!

That red metal flake is gorgeous too, dang!

[mzbrahce]

If you are interested in patina copper sheets, check these out:
     https://www.veneersupplies.com/categories/Specialty__Veneer/Patina__Copper__Veneer/

[DonJoe]

Love the creativity Peter!  Just stunning work...as always.

[dan2023]

I agree Peter J, that is a great color.

[Peter J]

I recently got a helper



And who can guess what I'm doing here?