Great workmanship kwhitman! You shouldn't have any problems with the solid wood front baffle, I have always liked that look. A solid wood front baffle is risky if the the wood isn't acclimated to it's environment. Depending on the wood density, the rule of thumb is 1 year acclimation per 1" of thickness. That may seem extreme to people who haven't done custom woodworking for 40 years like I have.
If you moved to Arizona the speakers would definitely go through some changes.
WOW! I love the wood. Someday I'll put together something like this.
For people thinking of making their own veneer from solid wood, I have been doing that forever. 1/4" is too thick and starts acting like real wood: expanding, shrinking, and curling from changes in relative humidity. No amount of glue will stop it. Because tigerwood is so oily it will probably be OK. Any other wood will have problems.
1/8" - 3/16" acts like veneer. One problem is wood that thin can't be sent through a planer. I use a SuperMax drum sander. The hard sanding drum doesn't roll over the edges so bookmatched pieces are perfectly flat at the joint.
I recommend the Grizzly Supercut H6998 - 5/8" x .025" x 3 TPI Hook Carbide-Embedded Bandsaw Blade. Blade tension should be very high. Be sure to order the correct length for your bandsaw.
https://www.grizzly.com/products/supercut-105-x-5-8-x-.025-x-3-tpi-hook-carbide-embedded-bandsaw-blade/h6998A silicone lubricating spray extends the life of the blade when resawing hard or abrasive woods like white oak or mesquite. Don't use the silicone if your shop has a spray booth, it will get everywhere and cause fisheye in your finishes.
I use
Titebond Cold Press Veneer glue,
Grizzly Glue and
West Epoxy depending on the project size, exterior or interior, and estimated panic level.