AudioCircle
Industry Circles => GR Research => Topic started by: kwhitman on 22 Jun 2022, 02:40 am
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After a long wait my Tigerwood XLS's are finally finished. :green: They have upgraded crossover parts and a pair of the new tweeters we have all been waiting for. I would like to thank Danny and his team for demanding a quality tweeter even if it meant deferring sales. I also appreciate Danny matching components and tweaking the crossover to accommodate the new tweeters. Quality is the name of the game here. The speakers are fantastic and are getting some hours put on them. I hope you guys like the end result. I know my wife does :thumb:
I apologize up front this is going to be pic heavy. The pictures make it appear a little orange....they are not that orange looking in real life.
Here is the left speaker:
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=241931)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=241932)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=241933)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=241934)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=241935)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=241936)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=241937)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=241938)
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And here is the Right Speaker. Same thing on this speaker the pictures make it appear more orange than it really is.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=241939)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=241940)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=241941)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=241942)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=241943)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=241944)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=241945)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=241946)
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Very nice 👍
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Oh man!
That's my speed right there! Fantastic!
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Very, very nice :thumb:
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Beautiful work!
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Absolutely beautiful work! Were there any issues with the newer tweeter and fitment? Are they the exact same size?
Robert
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These look great.
I would be interested in a cut list and tips on using a solid wood to avoid wood movement issues. I’m sure be the slight modification to the standard plans is not to difficult to figure out but would love to hear any tips to try and get things right the first time.
I will be ordering a pair of encores and would love to do a walnut box. Possibly a solid front baffle that extends the entire width of the front line yours and then walnut ply for the rest.
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Thanks guys. We are really happy with the way they turned out. To answer a few of the questions the tweeters fit perfectly into the cutout that was cut to the spec sheet. I tried them in a flat pack I had as well and it dropped right in. No worries with them being a different size.
I cut the raw lumber with a bandsaw into panels 3/16"-1/4" thick, planed them to a consistent thickness, then glued the panels to make a book matched panel. Since the wood is Tigerwood it is oily so I opted for a special epoxy designed for this type of wood. I'll attach a pic or two on my process. The face and rear panels are solid Tigerwood a little over 3/4" so the MDF core is built to original specs with Tigerwood panels epoxied on. Obviously this makes the outer dimensions slightly larger than your typical flat pack. I made the face and rear panels larger obviously to match the box size. Remember to make all the panels, face, and rear panels slightly larger than the box so you can flush trim for a perfect fit. I watched Peters Youtube videos for this technique. As far as wood movement, that can definitely be an issue if the boxes are not in a controlled environment. I left the front and rear panels inside the house to acclimate a couple weeks before gluing them to the MDF box to minimize wood movement after glue up and flush trimming. Luckily Tigerwood is a very oily and dense wood so it doesn't move a lot but it is hardwood and it will move. If I was doing it again I would make the main box deeper and rabbet for the front and rear panels. This would allow the face and rear panels to be MDF covered by Tigerwood like the main box. This would help minimize wood movement tremendously. I strongly suggest you watch Peters videos if you are doing a kit for the first time. He offers a ton of great tips and I found his information extremely helpful. Thanks Peter for you time and effort on these videos. If you followed my original thread I shamelessly copied Mikes idea using hardwood over MDF. He made a fabulous pair from ambrosia maple panels and that inspired this build. Thanks again Mike!
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=234091)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=234106)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=234107)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=234512)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=234109)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=234617)
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Those look great! I love Tigerwood. I've not worked with it yet, but I love the grain and uniqueness of it. I'd love to hear more about the difference in sound after the upgrades. :thumb:
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Uncle Elvis,
Thanks, I love the look of Tigerwood myself. This pair was just completed so they need some break in hours before any critical listening is done. I would love to give you a comparison between the stock and upgraded crossovers but this pair was built with upgraded parts right off so I have no stock crossover reference. I do not have a critical ear or high end components like some on this circle have, but I am sure someone here can give you the sound comparison you desire. Sorry I cannot be more help.
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W O W
That's craftsmanship. Well done kwhitman.
:thumb:
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Those are some seriously stout cabinets. Beautiful too.
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WOW! I love the wood. Someday I'll put together something like this. Where does one order wood like this?
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Great workmanship kwhitman! You shouldn't have any problems with the solid wood front baffle, I have always liked that look. A solid wood front baffle is risky if the the wood isn't acclimated to it's environment. Depending on the wood density, the rule of thumb is 1 year acclimation per 1" of thickness. That may seem extreme to people who haven't done custom woodworking for 40 years like I have.
If you moved to Arizona the speakers would definitely go through some changes.
WOW! I love the wood. Someday I'll put together something like this.
For people thinking of making their own veneer from solid wood, I have been doing that forever. 1/4" is too thick and starts acting like real wood: expanding, shrinking, and curling from changes in relative humidity. No amount of glue will stop it. Because tigerwood is so oily it will probably be OK. Any other wood will have problems.
1/8" - 3/16" acts like veneer. One problem is wood that thin can't be sent through a planer. I use a SuperMax drum sander. The hard sanding drum doesn't roll over the edges so bookmatched pieces are perfectly flat at the joint.
I recommend the Grizzly Supercut H6998 - 5/8" x .025" x 3 TPI Hook Carbide-Embedded Bandsaw Blade. Blade tension should be very high. Be sure to order the correct length for your bandsaw.
https://www.grizzly.com/products/supercut-105-x-5-8-x-.025-x-3-tpi-hook-carbide-embedded-bandsaw-blade/h6998 (https://www.grizzly.com/products/supercut-105-x-5-8-x-.025-x-3-tpi-hook-carbide-embedded-bandsaw-blade/h6998)
A silicone lubricating spray extends the life of the blade when resawing hard or abrasive woods like white oak or mesquite. Don't use the silicone if your shop has a spray booth, it will get everywhere and cause fisheye in your finishes.
I use Titebond Cold Press Veneer glue (http://www.titebond.com/product/glues/fdb9c5cb-15b3-49b3-b709-5794cc3ae102), Grizzly Glue (https://www.grizzlyglue.com/) and West Epoxy (https://www.westsystem.com/) depending on the project size, exterior or interior, and estimated panic level.
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A silicone lubricating spray extends the life of the blade when resawing hard or abrasive woods like white oak or mesquite. Don't use the silicone if your shop has a spray booth, it will get everywhere and cause fisheye in your finishes.
Great piece of advice here if you plan to do any clearcoating or painting of the cabinets. No silicone (or wd-40) should be used anywhere near spraying environments. Or go on ahead and use them and I'll just sell you guys more fisheye eliminator. :evil: lol.
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Thanks guys. I sourced my Tigerwood several years ago from Dakota lumber in Austin Texas. They cater to the custom cabinet shops in the area. WGH is right about acclimating the wood for a year or more. The raw wood was in my air conditioned shop for over two years before I started this project. I agree 1/4" is too thick but that is about where they started after re-sawing. I planed them to a consistent thickness and edge jointed before gluing the book matched panels. Once the glue dried I removed the excess along the seam with a scraper then made several passes thru the drum sander to take them down to around 3/16" thick. The epoxy I used was G/Flex by West Systems because it was designed for oily type woods and it doesn't dry rock hard. I'm not a seasoned woodworker like WGH just a weekend warrior but I try to do my research and consult people with more experience than myself before choosing materials. I learned a few things on this project so I consider it a win.
I appreciate the advice on the bandsaw blade. I use either a Wood Slicer Resaw blade from Highland Woodworking or the Laguna Resaw King. Both blades have performed admirably on any hardwood I have resawn. I'll check out the Grizzly Supercut.
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I agree 1/4" is too thick but that is about where they started after re-sawing...
... then made several passes thru the drum sander to take them down to around 3/16" thick.
You did good.
With a little practice you can get the rough slices down to 3/16", finishing out at 1/8" thick.
Here is my setup while resawing 4' long x 9" wide mesquite into 3/16" veneer for my speakers. The bandsaw is a 14" Delta from the 1970's. Every slice came out perfect.
(http://www.wghwoodworking.com/salk/mesquite_veneer_2.jpg)
(http://www.wghwoodworking.com/salk/mesquite_veneer_3.jpg)
The process of making veneer takes a lot more wood than a hobbyist would imagine. Each 3/16" slice takes about 3/8" or more of wood because after cutting a slice off each side, the board has to be trued up so it is flat with parallel sides. Everything has to be perfect to make perfect slices.
The beginning mesquite plank was 5' long x 10" wide x 5" thick and weighed 105 lbs. Most of the plank was turned into sawdust. The joiner is a 16" J.A. Fay from 1905.
(http://www.wghwoodworking.com/salk/mesquite_veneer_1.jpg)
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Very Nice WGH! Yep I have a lot to learn. In my defense the reason the panels were left 3/16" thick is for the round over on all sides of the box. I was afraid of getting the panels too thin and rounding over into MDF :o
You have my interest peaked on thin resawn lumber. I'll give it a try to see how it turns out. I have a project needing a thin veneer so I'll give it a try. Thanks for the pics. My shop and shop tools are not commercial grade like yours but acceptable for a weekend warrior.
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I have a project needing a thin veneer so I'll give it a try.
Here is a resawing tip:
All bandsaw blades have drift. The very slight differences during manufacturing causes the blade to track slightly to the left or right. You won't get a clean 3/16" slice until you adjust for the drift. As the blade gets used the drift will change and the fence re-adjusted.
I use a shop made 90 degree fence to adjust for the drift. Take a scrap 2x4 the length of the bandsaw table and draw a line exactly in the middle. Try to split the line free hand, stopping 1/2 way down the length. Carefully turn off the bandsaw without moving the 2x4. Measure the distance from the miter gauge slot to the front and back of the 2x4. That is the drift and your fence should be angled to match the difference in measurements.
If your bandsaw 90 degree fence doesn't have an angle adjustment then put it on a shelf and let it collect sawdust for 20 years. You will need to make an adjustable 90 degree fence. And it's not as easy as it looks.
An adjustable 90 degree fence will take all your skills. Set your finished 90 degree fence on milled flat surface like a tablesaw and check the front, middle and back with a machinist square. The Grizzly machinist square set is $22.95 (https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-machinist-s-square-set-4-pc./h2993?gclid=Cj0KCQjwntCVBhDdARIsAMEwACl13UEJSmLq-hGBpkiokknSWZ5s-eIpPaFzMZm3EsyYBfOQ7mU3Y4saAoWREALw_wcB). Every wood shop should have a set.
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I love your work. Great Job.
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Consider me inspired. Just placed an order for Encores. I have built amps and a preamp and redone cross overs but this will be my first speaker build.
Hoping supply will keep working back towards a more normal flow so these don’t turn into Christmas presents😁
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Those tiger wood ska’s are very pretty. Have you tried playing with positioning? They may benifit by being pulled out half a foot or more so there is space between the two speakers, I had almost the exact same issue with placement a year ago and just bit the bullet with looks and had my speakers about a foot total I front of the fury other and it helped a ton with imaging and soundstage.
Good luck and beautiful build!
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Thanks, we are enjoying the Tigerwood grain and more importantly their sound.
Yes, I do pull them out when the wife and I settle in for a listening session. They are placed beside the entertainment center, most of the time, because of my high energy German Shepherd. He thinks that area in front of the entertainment center is his playground! :green:
You are correct they sound better pulled away from the wall. :thumb: I was expecting to get flamed for those pictures showing them tucked away beside the entertainment center and too close to the wall.:duh: :nono:
Now that I have been called out I can relax. :green:
Kris
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Absolutely stunning work! Well done!