AudioCircle
Industry Circles => NuPrime Audio => Topic started by: jojo on 31 Dec 2017, 09:28 pm
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Trying to change battery. No way. The whole remote falls appart.
Doing a great product and fails to make a remote! Why? :icon_twisted:
No manual.
Five different screws.
Send me a manual. Please!!
IDA - 16
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The metal wand remote that came with my IDA-16 has four(4) screws on the back; three(3) hex head and one(1) Phillips head.
To insert/change batteries loosen/remove the Phillips head screw, slide battery tray out and insert batteries, slide battery tray back in and insert/tighten Phillips head screw. Enjoy some music. :thumb:
Cheers,
Scott
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Trying to change battery. No way. The whole remote falls appart.
Doing a great product and fails to make a remote! Why? :icon_twisted:
No manual.
Five different screws.
Send me a manual. Please!!
IDA - 16
Hi Jojo,
Sorry to hear of the remote issue.
You need only remove a "single" screw (the one with the Philips head) to change batteries in the IDA-16 remote.
Do not remove any of the "hex-head" screws.
Once the Philips Head screw is removed, you may need to shake the remote a bit to get the battery compartment to slide out.
Once you have changed the battery take care to slide it back in so that the hexoganal portion slides "into" the remote. This may take a couple tries.
IDA-16 MANUAL is HERE (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ml364qiacryb8sa/AACLBIKrlqyjESpZw85ybfN1a?dl=0&preview=IDA-16+Manual.pdf).
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Where did you buy the IDA-16 without manual? Used?
You can download the manual from the IDA-16 product page on the website.
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Thank for manual. I had it. Bought IDA-16 new, by the way.
The problem I discovered was that the remote was in some way damaged or bad made. So I sent it to a a Nuprime agent. I wanted a new one. But did not got it. And the "repaired" has the same problem. You loosen one screw and then have to use much force to open the battery slide. I have now removed the screw. It has no function.
I have to live with that.
By the way I was warned for the remote control before I bought IDA. They were right. You have to be very close to make t work also.
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Simple solution, buy a programmable remote although you should not have to.
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..... You have to be very close to make t work also.
How far are you ?
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That hex share remote has a trick with the battery compartment. ONLY one screw should be loosen to open it. If you loosen more than one screw the whole thing falls apart. Cool looking remote inherited from the NuForce time (P-9) but ridiculous mechanical design.
We don't use this remote for the 9 series due to its cost and complexity. Remote is a pain-in-the-ass problem for low volume manufacturer :duh:
For CDP-9 and CDT-8 Pro we have yet another remote (very nice aluminium remote and new design).
Sorry, the remotes are not interchangeable. Their firmware has to be matched to the display and volume control of specific model.
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I agree on people's comments on this remote. I just purchased a DAC-10 from an AC member (but not on AC) that I think it pretty wonderful, especially at the price point. The remote -- works. The design is not a triumph, but I haven't found it unreliable or problematic to use. The clicking/wiggly buttons don't give you a great deal of confidence in the build. I am just glad the DAC-10 is sooooo much better than the remote.
DAC-10: first SABRE DAC I've heard without the "SABRE glare". Even some pricier SABRE implementations have it, to greater or lesser degrees. Can't hear it on the DAC-10 -- just clear and smooth.
Regards, -dGB
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I've used the remote for almost two years without a problem. Manuals are provided to be read not left in the box.
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I've used the remote for my IDA-16 for nearly a year. It is well built, performs flawlessly and looks great as well. :thumb:
Cheers,
Scott
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Last day I also had a same disaster with my remote for IDA-16.
In the battery compartment, the battery was caught or stacked inside , so I could not slide out the battery compartment.
The solution for me was "Shake the remote and move the battery into the right position in the battery compartment, then slide out the compartment. from the remote"
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DAC-10: first SABRE DAC I've heard without the "SABRE glare". Even some pricier SABRE implementations have it, to greater or lesser degrees. Can't hear it on the DAC-10 -- just clear and smooth.
Thanks! This is the reason we decided not to use ESS 9038, it doesn't sound good as compared to 9018 or 9028.