AudioCircle
Industry Circles => GR Research => Topic started by: Danny Richie on 21 Mar 2014, 02:34 am
-
LGK 1.0's are finally in stock.
(http://gr-research.com/productimages/lgkpic1.jpg)
And I just got some basics up on our site about them: http://gr-research.com/lgk10.aspx
There is an introductory price of $29 a piece for these drivers but you'll have to call me to order them for that price.
Complete desktop kits consisting of drivers, compensation networks, wire, tube connectors, half of a sheet of No Rez, ports, solder, heat shrink, and screws are also available now at only $189 for everything.
(http://gr-research.com/pics/bb5.jpg)
(http://gr-research.com/pics/bb6.jpg)
Picture of the complete kit:
(http://gr-research.com/pics/lgkkitpic2.jpg)
You can now order the kits online: http://gr-research.com/lgk10kit.aspx
-
Danny,
I will take two of the kits. I'll call you tomorrow with the payment information.
Mike
-
Hey Danny - are the "compensation networks" the inline low level RCA networks to reduce some of the bass? Or are they speaker line level components?
-
Would you post an outline drawing with dimensions that shows overall dimensions and mounting hole dimensions
-
I see a good redesign here Danny ;)
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5475/10611359416_8163f68928_z.jpg)
(http://farm2.staticflickr.com/1059/4721716203_4c1ae7e492_z.jpg)
We did these a few years ago with the old W3-871 and W3-319s. No reason can not use Danny's new driver...
-
RAD!
-
AWESOME!!!
:thumb:
Dave
-
Ordered two of the LGK 1.0 kits this morning. Now I have to get down to business and decide how to finish the pair I'm gluing up.
Mike
-
Ordered two of the LGK 1.0 kits this morning. Now I have to get down to business and decide how to finish the pair I'm gluing up.
Mike
Pics! Also it would be cool if you matched them to the desk you'll be using.
-
Calling Jparkhur :D
When is the first batch of cabinets coming?
-
Calling Jparkhur :D
When is the first batch of cabinets coming?
Oops I quoted the wrong post sorry
-
Pics! Also it would be cool if you matched them to the desk you'll be using.
This is the post I meant to quote :oops:
I'm probably going to use purpleheart veneer on this pair. I'm going to be making a pair of speakers for my stepdaughter and was planning on X-LS Encores but she thinks they may be too large for the space she has and she wants purpleheart on her speakers. So I will build the first pair of LGK's with her in mind then when she comes to visit next month she can compare my X-LS Encores and the LGK's and pick the one she wants.
Since the LGK's are so small I am seriously considering finishing my second pair with some type burl veneer that would be way too expensive for me to use on a larger pair of speakers.
The downside of this approach is that if she picks the Encores I'm going to have a pair of LGK's with a finish I'm personally not that fond of.
Mike
-
Mike, not to waste veneer, if you are going to build a pair for yourself anyway, why not mock them up without veneer for her to demo, then finish as appropriate afterward, or would she be hoping to take them with her after the demo?
RAW, those lifestyle speakers look very cool, but I was distracted by the sweet looking amps! Dodds, I presume? Any closer pics and/or details?
DAVE!!!!!! :D I have to send you an email later. :)
Danny, I read the webpage for the new drivers quickly, and it stated these are good in OB as midwoofers. Do the highs roll off to much in OB to run full range in that configuration or is it something else?
. . . and, yep, paging JP to the courtesy phone. Seeing some of his past projects, these look like his kind of cool. :thumb:
-
Danny, I read the webpage for the new drivers quickly, and it stated these are good in OB as midwoofers. Do the highs roll off to much in OB to run full range in that configuration or is it something else?
The highs are fine in open baffle. They just need something else covering from around 200Hz and down. Maybe I should have said it differently.
-
Calling Jparkhur :D
When is the first batch of cabinets coming?
I think subassemblies has this covered. Baltic and mdf with cnc. Tough to beAt cnc. He is doing a nice job and I have called him to express the vast interest in h frames and sub boxes. Tag. Bdaniels is it. That is his user name.
P
-
Mike, not to waste veneer, if you are going to build a pair for yourself anyway, why not mock them up without veneer for her to demo, then finish as appropriate afterward, or would she be hoping to take them with her after the demo?
Jonathon,
No, she is flying in from Portland so she cannot take the speakers back with her, I'll have to ship them.
I thought about leaving them unfinished until after she decides but these speakers use the Electra Tube Connectors. Once you install those they cannot be removed without cutting the wire. The connectors would then have to be spliced back to the lead in wires after the veneer is on and finished.
I guess another option would be to leave the lead in wires a little long to begin with then sacrifice a pair of tube connectors. That would be the cleanest way to do it but the tube connectors cost almost as much as the veneer.
Decisions, decisions :scratch:
Mike
-
RAW, those lifestyle speakers look very cool, but I was distracted by the sweet looking amps! Dodds, I presume? Any closer pics and/or details?
Thanks those towers were the Spires I worked with a little help from Danny on the design for CSS.The photo was in 2003 at VSAC in Washington when I first meet Danny then started doing cabinets for him and customers.Which then led me into RAW.The Spires used a sealed W3-871S and then 4 W3-319s in a ported cabinet tuned to 85-75hz dependant on build
The Monitors were called Super Elf which used a sealed W3-871 with a ported W3-319s tuned to 85-75hz.
Here is a few others all ideas for you all to look at.
(http://farm2.staticflickr.com/1048/4721707391_38daeeab86.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7444/10611328775_ea28aa164d_z.jpg)
Inside look of the Super Elf
(http://farm2.staticflickr.com/1068/4722385372_71abb50659.jpg)
(http://farm2.staticflickr.com/1094/4722384688_f25371b83b_z.jpg)
Electronics see if Danny can recall the set up he brought up for the VSAC show. Yes Gary's craftsmanship for sure;)
-
I guess another option would be to leave the lead in wires a little long to begin with then sacrifice a pair of tube connectors. That would be the cleanest way to do it but the tube connectors cost almost as much as the veneer.
Decisions, decisions :scratch:
Mike
Can you install the connector after veneering? Just leave it as bare wire until you figure out what veneer to use?
-
Jonathon,
No, she is flying in from Portland so she cannot take the speakers back with her, I'll have to ship them.
I thought about leaving them unfinished until after she decides but these speakers use the Electra Tube Connectors. Once you install those they cannot be removed without cutting the wire. The connectors would then have to be spliced back to the lead in wires after the veneer is on and finished.
I guess another option would be to leave the lead in wires a little long to begin with then sacrifice a pair of tube connectors. That would be the cleanest way to do it but the tube connectors cost almost as much as the veneer.
Decisions, decisions :scratch:
Mike
You could temporarily just solder speaker cables to the crossover leads and cut them before you veneer (assuming you have unterminated speaker cables). No sacrifice of a tube connector and you'll probably get the same sonics.
Edit: Just realized someone else suggested the exact same thing.
-
I'm a bit puzzled by the passive compensation filter part of this project, appreciate if someone could set me straight.
My goal is to simply have reasonably good audio on my computer desk when I'm using the Mac -- and, of course, to have fun building one of Danny's speaker designs.
The source will be the Mac, for amplification I'll use an inexpensive Dayton DTA-120 https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dta-120-class-t-digital-mini-amplifier-60-wpc--300-3800 (https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dta-120-class-t-digital-mini-amplifier-60-wpc--300-3800) or comparable Class-T unit.
Clearly, I've no high end interests with these modest requirements and a commensurable modest budget.
For this usage and configuration, is a filter necessary, and if so, what kind do I need?
-
Mike, just pull the wire through the hole and strip the tip of it. Then use some alligator clips to temporarily connect it to your speaker cables. Sure it won't sound quite as good, but it will play.
-
I'm a bit puzzled by the passive compensation filter part of this project, appreciate if someone could set me straight.
My goal is to simply have reasonably good audio on my computer desk when I'm using the Mac -- and, of course, to have fun building one of Danny's speaker designs.
The source will be the Mac, for amplification I'll use an inexpensive Dayton DTA-120 https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dta-120-class-t-digital-mini-amplifier-60-wpc--300-3800 (https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dta-120-class-t-digital-mini-amplifier-60-wpc--300-3800) or comparable Class-T unit.
Clearly, I've no high end interests with these modest requirements and a commensurable modest budget.
For this usage and configuration, is a filter necessary, and if so, what kind do I need?
The compensation filter compensates for baffle step loss. It doesn't matter what you use it with. See complete kit pic:
(http://gr-research.com/pics/lgkkitpic2.jpg)
Now, if you want to roll the lows off so you can increase headroom and drive them harder and louder then that's a different thing. This can be done in a number of ways.
-
Al, I have been thinking about these:
(http://farm2.staticflickr.com/1048/4721707391_38daeeab86.jpg)
And I have compared these to the old 871's.
(http://gr-research.com/pics/comparing.jpg)
These new drivers sound much better. :thumb: I was stunned by just how good they sound.
-
Oops. Wrong thread.
-
Danny, just for those who will likely ask, did putting a platinum cap in there in place of the sonicap (or a bypass on the cap in in the kit) improve things enough to justify adding a few dollars to the project? I would think that with a single driver speaker with the minimal parts count here that the type/quality of the few parts that are used would make an even bigger difference than with maybe some of the more elaborate designs?
I know this kit is aimed at being a bang-for-the-buck kind of deal, but I figured it wouldn't take long for somebody around here to ask. ;)
-
Danny, just for those who will likely ask, did putting a platinum cap in there in place of the sonicap (or a bypass on the cap in in the kit) improve things enough to justify adding a few dollars to the project? I would think that with a single driver speaker with the minimal parts count here that the type/quality of the few parts that are used would make an even bigger difference than with maybe some of the more elaborate designs?
I know this kit is aimed at being a bang-for-the-buck kind of deal, but I figured it wouldn't take long for somebody around here to ask. ;)
I have not tried by-passing the single Sonicap with a Platinum. It can certainly be done for the guy that wants to extract the last ounce of resolution and detail out of them. A couple of .022 Platinum's would be a good choice and are $36 a piece.
-
Here is a good quality but low cost way of adding a high pass filter to these things.
You can add a small value Gen.2 Sonicap in line with your amplifier input or pre-amp output. Here are some values and costs. These are all 600VDC caps. The high value rating is not necessary but it is what's available in these small values.
0.01µF $4.15
0.015µF $5.28
0.022µF $5.28
0.033µF $5.28
0.056µF $5.28
0.068µF $5.28
0.075µF $5.28
0.1µF $6.11
You'll need to know the input impedance of your amp to get the right value needed. Get me that information and I'll calculate the value for you.
You can mount these internally in an amp or pre-amp or make an inline plug and play type addition using a male and female RCA plug. Good quality connectors are highly recommended.
-
I'm a bit puzzled by the passive compensation filter part of this project, appreciate if someone could set me straight.
My goal is to simply have reasonably good audio on my computer desk when I'm using the Mac -- and, of course, to have fun building one of Danny's speaker designs.
The source will be the Mac, for amplification I'll use an inexpensive Dayton DTA-120 https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dta-120-class-t-digital-mini-amplifier-60-wpc--300-3800 (https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dta-120-class-t-digital-mini-amplifier-60-wpc--300-3800) or comparable Class-T unit.
Clearly, I've no high end interests with these modest requirements and a commensurable modest budget.
For this usage and configuration, is a filter necessary, and if so, what kind do I need?
Oops.. Pudgy, fudge fingers. :lol:
-
That is the amp I use for my desktop system in my office. Not bad...
Dave
-
Mike, not to waste veneer, if you are going to build a pair for yourself anyway, why not mock them up without veneer for her to demo, then finish as appropriate afterward, or would she be hoping to take them with her after the demo?
RAW, those lifestyle speakers look very cool, but I was distracted by the sweet looking amps! Dodds, I presume? Any closer pics and/or details?
DAVE!!!!!! :D I have to send you an email later. :)
Danny, I read the webpage for the new drivers quickly, and it stated these are good in OB as midwoofers. Do the highs roll off to much in OB to run full range in that configuration or is it something else?
. . . and, yep, paging JP to the courtesy phone. Seeing some of his past projects, these look like his kind of cool. :thumb:
Hit me.
Dave
-
Yes. I would build some slabs with holes in them. Like the monoliths. Danny would have to point us in a good direction. Bdaniels could cnc the crap out of these too
-
Al, I have been thinking about these:
(http://farm2.staticflickr.com/1048/4721707391_38daeeab86.jpg)
And I have compared these to the old 871's.
(http://gr-research.com/pics/comparing.jpg)
These new drivers sound much better. :thumb: I was stunned by just how good they sound.
I can see a system like this above with the new driver 8)
-
I'm a bit puzzled by the passive compensation filter part of this project, appreciate if someone could set me straight.
My goal is to simply have reasonably good audio on my computer desk when I'm using the Mac -- and, of course, to have fun building one of Danny's speaker designs.
The source will be the Mac, for amplification I'll use an inexpensive Dayton DTA-120 https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dta-120-class-t-digital-mini-amplifier-60-wpc--300-3800 or comparable Class-T unit.
Clearly, I've no high end interests with these modest requirements and a commensurable modest budget.
For this usage and configuration, is a filter necessary, and if so, what kind do I need?
The compensation filter compensates for baffle step loss. It doesn't matter what you use it with. See complete kit pic:
This helps clear it up -- I was confusing the purpose of the compensation filter with the in-line RCA filter being discussed in the other thread.
-
Mike, just pull the wire through the hole and strip the tip of it. Then use some alligator clips to temporarily connect it to your speaker cables. Sure it won't sound quite as good, but it will play.
Danny,
Thanks,
Mike
-
One of mine is playing as I type. Threw a box together, put in some padding, built a quick network, and it's now playing a Brahms sonata. The box is held together with duct tape and rubber bands, the port is the wrong length, but it still plays a very beautiful violin- kills the little Polks that usually sit by my computer as far as tone. Tomorrow is the day for glue up and soldering. :D
Scott
-
One of mine is playing as I type. Threw a box together, put in some padding, built a quick network, and it's now playing a Brahms sonata. The box is held together with duct tape and rubber bands, the port is the wrong length, but it still plays a very beautiful violin- kills the little Polks that usually sit by my speakers as far as tone. Tomorrow is the day for glue up and soldering. :D
Scott
:lol:
Sounds like me, the patients thing never set in real hard.
-
My first set of boxes have the NoRez installed (I had some left over) are glued up, trimmed and sanded, just waiting for the kits to arrive. I am taking y'alls advice and not finishing these until after my step daughter listens to them.
Mike
-
I shipped out a lot of these in the last few days. I am sure many of you will be seeing them soon.
-
Danny,
Could you provide these dimensions if possible. Need to cut some wood.... Or at lease the numbers that matter to cut holes and sub sets.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=96842)
-
I don't have all of those measurements on hand, but this should get you in the right direction. This is what I used for the flatpacks. With a depth of 0.12" for the recess. You can ignore the notch and just drill out some spots for the terminals once you identify where they need to go.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=96846)
-
New complete box plans: http://gr-research.com/pdf/lgkbox.pdf
-
Danny,
Could you provide these dimensions if possible. Need to cut some wood.... Or at lease the numbers that matter to cut holes and sub sets.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=96842)
JP
I'd add a bit to that recess number. Instead of .12 I'd make it .15m (3/32). I find that my LGK is protruding just a touch over the cabinet. I always like to make the recess a bit deeper... if I get too deep I can always cut some thick paper/card stock to act as a shim.
-
JP
I'd add a bit to that recess number. Instead of .12 I'd make it .15m (3/32). I find that my LGK is protruding just a touch over the cabinet. I always like to make the recess a bit deeper... if I get too deep I can always cut some thick paper/card stock to act as a shim.
The gaskets that they put on the production models are slightly thicker than anticipated too. So if painting or veneering I recommend pre-fitting the drivers to double check your depth.
-
If anyone cares to build out an extra pair, please let me know. Either way, I'm sure these sound amazing.
-
New complete box plans: http://gr-research.com/pdf/lgkbox.pdf
This is great. I have Ben's CNC kit, but it's good to see the insulation placement recommendations.
- Any clever tips for wiring/installing the compensation filter behind the driver?
- Is there a performance advantage to a 3/8" roundover of the exterior vertical baffle edge?
BK
-
Hey guys. I received my kit today (thanks for the fast shipping, Danny).
I noticed that the fit of the tube connectors was pretty tight - er, really tight. I think I could pound them in, but they would certainly not be easy to remove. I've never used these before.
I measured the holes in my rear panels and they are a few thousandths smaller than the 0.4375 spec. Maybe the material has swelled since I brought it in the house, or maybe the cuts were off a little, which is possible, at such small tolerances.
In any case, make sure you check this fit. Even after running a 7/16th (0.4375) drill bit through the hole it was still really tight. A little wiggling of the bit gave a good balance between a tight fit and possible to remove. Again, I've never used these before, so I'm not sure how tight it should be.
(pardon the cross post, I want to make sure everyone sees this)
-
Hey guys. I received my kit today (thanks for the fast shipping, Danny).
I noticed that the fit of the tube connectors was pretty tight - er, really tight. I think I could pound them in, but they would certainly not be easy to remove. I've never used these before.
I measured the holes in my rear panels and they are a few thousandths smaller than the 0.4375 spec. Maybe the material has swelled since I brought it in the house, or maybe the cuts were off a little, which is possible, at such small tolerances.
In any case, make sure you check this fit. Even after running a 7/16th (0.4375) drill bit through the hole it was still really tight. A little wiggling of the bit gave a good balance between a tight fit and possible to remove. Again, I've never used these before, so I'm not sure how tight it should be.
(pardon the cross post, I want to make sure everyone sees this)
You don't remove them. You install them and you're done.
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=94014.0
And you can tap them in gently with a little hammer. I line the back side of them with a little Silicone too.
-
Thanks, Danny.
Curious how you supported the weight of the filter network. Mount to a board and screw into the rear panel?
-
Thanks, Danny.
Curious how you supported the weight of the filter network. Mount to a board and screw into the rear panel?
I mounted it on a small board with the inductor on its side. And I drilled a few holes in the board one each side for some small screws. I inserted it through the woofer hole and screwed it to the back wall.
-
And this is why I don't build speakers for a living....
I don't know how many speakers I've built- 100, 200...
Now the LGK with prefab boxes is about as easy as it gets. I get every thing glued up, solder the speakers, and start to put the ports in. Port A goes in fine, Port B? Where is Port B??? I turn the garage upside down, give up, get another port, begin to install it, and there it is, the missing port. Inside the speaker. Usually times like this call for alcohol. I open a bottle of wine, drink a glass. Now it's time to attack the port with a pair of long needle nose pliers, breaking it up bit by bit. Finally done, new port installed. I have a skill for making simple projects difficult. :duh:
Scott
-
LOL, it's all part of the "fun" man ... at least you had the wine handy :thumb:
-jay
-
And this is why I don't build speakers for a living....
I don't know how many speakers I've built- 100, 200...
Now the LGK with prefab boxes is about as easy as it gets. I get every thing glued up, solder the speakers, and start to put the ports in. Port A goes in fine, Port B? Where is Port B??? I turn the garage upside down, give up, get another port, begin to install it, and there it is, the missing port. Inside the speaker. Usually times like this call for alcohol. I open a bottle of wine, drink a glass. Now it's time to attack the port with a pair of long needle nose pliers, breaking it up bit by bit. Finally done, new port installed. I have a skill for making simple projects difficult. :duh:
Scott
You're not alone. When I soldered up one of the drivers I somehow managed to pass the lead through the heat sink I was using. Didn't notice it until I tried to remove the heat sink. Not that hard to fix though. Of course there was the time I glued the front baffle on upside down :nono:
Well at least my first pair of LGK's are up and running on my desktop. As everybody suggested, these are unfinished at this point and will remain so until after my step daughter listens to them in a couple of weeks.
Currently being driven by the NAD C372 stereo amp and mated with a subwoofer. They are sounding surprisingly good even though I have not got the inline high pass filter built yet. But then I am only listening to them around 60dB with spikes to 68dB.
At my current listening distance of 30 inches the highs sound a little harsh, say, when Chuck Mangione hits a high note. Also, vocals sound a little subdued and behind the music. Increasing the volume a little brings the vocals back out. They smooth out some if I back off to about 2 meters. But then they have only been playing for about a half hour at this point.
Maybe the highs will smooth out and the vocals pick up as they break in.
Of course there is also a comparison issue since the speakers I was listening to in this system immediately before swapping in the LGK's was a pair of N1X's with upgraded crossovers and by-pass caps (Gen II, not platinum).
Right now Chuck is groovin on some mellow tunes, sweet.
Now I have switched to an HD FLAC file (96k/24) of Fleetwood Mac's "Rumors". Very pleasing. Cymbal strikes are clean with a nice ring and decay. Finger picking lead guitar is clean and crisp.
Now let's try some acoustic guitar with Ottmar Liebert (another HD FlAC file). Very impressive, again clean, clear balanced and smooth.
OK, now for an unfair test with an unbroken in driver, Respighi's "Pines of Rome". This one is respectable at this point, let's see what it is like in a couple of weeks.
Overall first impressions are very positive. Danny you got a real winner here for desktop use, especially in a 2.1 setup.
Mike
-
The LGK's have been playing for about 15 hours. They are opening up nicely.
Just to see what they sounded like by themselves, I turned the sub off a few minutes ago.
WOW!!! these speakers have some serious bass extension :weights:. Looking at them I never thought something that small could sound so big.
The sub is nice but definitely not necessary for enjoying these speakers.
The LGK's have just earned themselves permanent status in my office/desktop system.
Mike
-
where can the flat packs be purchased?
thanks,
drmike
-
I just responded to your PM.
Here's the link.
http://www.subassemble.com/product/lgk/
-
I just responded to your PM.
Here's the link.
http://www.subassemble.com/product/lgk/
Interesting. Looks nice.
Awwwright.... I musta missed it...who is "Subassemble"? :dunno:
-
It's a small one man operation... a little introduction was made here http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=122909.msg1295085#msg1295085
Awwwright.... I musta missed it...who is "Subassemble"? :dunno:
-
I finished mine up last night. 3/8's roundover on the verticals, and a little chamfer around the crown. One coat of Duratex.
I let them play in my office all night. They have really opened up. I must echo Mike's comments about the bass. I am very surprised by this little driver. Imaging is quite fantastic as well. New fixture on my desk for sure.
Ben
(http://www.subassemble.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/lkg-complete-01sm.jpg)
(http://www.subassemble.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/lkg-complete-02sm.jpg)
-
It's a small one man operation... a little introduction was made here http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=122909.msg1295085#msg1295085
Thank you kind sir! I kinda thought it was yours, but read one post (mis-read it more likely :oops:) where I got the impression it was somebody else....
This looks so interesting that I'm tempted to get the kit and a flat pack and try my hand.
One serious problem though. I have no need for them, no place to put them, and other pairs of speakers just sitting around unused already. I really need to do something about this.
I have this re-occurring dream about someday having a huge mancave/dedicated room where I can put everything and swap speakers in and out as the mood suits me. - You know - four or five sets lining the walls just like the Stereo stores I used to work at or hang out in. :green:
-
Man, those really look good. :thumb: :thumb:
-
I finished mine up last night. 3/8's roundover on the verticals, and a little chamfer around the crown. One coat of Duratex.
I let them play in my office all night. They have really opened up. I must echo Mike's comments about the bass. I am very surprised by this little driver. Imaging is quite fantastic as well. New fixture on my desk for sure.
Ben
(http://www.subassemble.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/lkg-complete-01sm.jpg)
(http://www.subassemble.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/lkg-complete-02sm.jpg)
Ben,
Those really look good.
What is Duratex, where can you get it and how do you apply it? That looks so much better than my attempts with primer and rattle can truck bed liner.
Will Duratex hide MDF seams by itself or do you still need to seal the MDF with epoxy first?
Mike
-
Mike,
I didn't know what Dura Tex was either. Here is a video showing one way to apply it. I don't know what method Ben used.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/iuav56tGIE4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuav56tGIE4
http://store.acrytech.com/Speaker-Cabinet-Coatings/
I just placed an order for a set of flatpacks on Ben's website. When Danny returns my phone call, I'm going to order a LGK kit. (Attention Danny: Hint....Hint.) :icon_twisted:
-
Mike,
I didn't know what Dura Tex was either. Here is a video showing one way to apply it. I don't know what method Ben used.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/iuav56tGIE4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuav56tGIE4
http://store.acrytech.com/Speaker-Cabinet-Coatings/
I just placed an order for a set of flatpacks on Ben's website. When Danny returns my phone call, I'm going to order a LGK kit. (Attention Danny: Hint....Hint.) :icon_twisted:
I just got in... And I see your message.
-
Mike,
As was already posted, it comes from here. http://store.acrytech.com/Speaker-Cabinet-Coatings/
This is actually the first time I've used it. My friend had a some left over from a project and he also had the textured roller brush.
It is probably the easiest finish you can imagine. I did 5 sides of each speaker in about 20 minutes while I was home for lunch Friday. When I got home later it was dry enough to handle, though I'm told it can take a week for a full cure. It is extremely durable.
It has a consistency similar to pudding. Some folks water it down, which may lend to less texture. I think it can even be sprayed. In any case, the result of this quick and dirty application was far better than I've seen from a rattle can bed liner. Easy to control, thick enough to apply vertically without running, and forgiving.
It will cover up small imperfections. I have seen it telegraph some joints that weren't properly trimmed flush though, so don't expect miracles. It probably depends on how thick it is applied though.
Ben,
Those really look good.
What is Duratex, where can you get it and how do you apply it? That looks so much better than my attempts with primer and rattle can truck bed liner.
Will Duratex hide MDF seams by itself or do you still need to seal the MDF with epoxy first?
Mike
-
Danny,
If I remember correctly, you said that the LGK's can handle 15 - 25 watts when run full range, 50 watts if the low end is restricted and 100 watts if the low end is really restricted.
What crossover frequencies (AVR settings) correspond with 50 and 100 watts?
Mike
-
Danny,
If I remember correctly, you said that the LGK's can handle 15 - 25 watts when run full range, 50 watts if the low end is restricted and 100 watts if the low end is really restricted.
What crossover frequencies (AVR settings) correspond with 50 and 100 watts?
Mike
You'd need to pull everything off of them below 80 to 100Hz. The more you pull off of them and the steeper the slope the more power you can put on them.
-
Thanks,
I was thinking of setting them up with a sub playing through a Denon AVR with an 80Hz crossover for my stepdaughter to listen to since that is how she would be using them.
She would need more power and higher SPL's than I do since she would be using them to replace her TV speakers for music, movies and TV in a small room.
Mike
-
Couldn't resist a quick listen before veneer. Now I'm super motivated to complete the finishing!
(http://i60.tinypic.com/2hyay9x.jpg)
-
Some fun coming up...
Wanting to play with new camera mostly, but these will be cool looking once I get them finished
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97272)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97273)
-
Looking good, Peter! Eager to see the final product.
Danny - any thoughts about toe-in?
-
I'm psyched! and also filled with uncertainty. I now have both Danny's kit and Ben's LGK flat pack (delivered in what seems a bomb proof package!!). The flat packs parts look amazing, Ben. I'm so glad I didn't try to cut my own.
I'm psyched because I'm really looking forward to building my first DIY speakers (with lots of help). I'm filled with uncertainty because I don't know what the hell I'm doing. Oh, I'm willing to bet I can fit the speaker pieces together (no glue first, then glue 2nd time). I have no clue how to assemble the caps, coils, etc. on a piece of wood. What piece? What size? What order?
I promise to not panic......more than a couple times. Perhaps, I should buy a 6-pack of beer just in case.
Peter J,
Thank you for those two pictures. They are helping me.
Michael
-
Noob question:
I understand that the coil/cap can be mounted on a small board, which is then glued/screwed to the back wall of the speaker behind the driver, but how to I wire the the various components to the small board in the first place? (no experience). Has anyone got a clear picture of an assembled unit? :(
-
Noob question:
I understand that the coil/cap can be mounted on a small board, which is then glued/screwed to the back wall of the speaker behind the driver, but how to I wire the the various components to the small board in the first place? (no experience). Has anyone got a clear picture of an assembled unit? :(
Stand the coil up on its edge just like the one in the upper right hand corner of this pic.
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/v2netpic.jpg)
Zip tie the inductor to the board and hot glue it or Silicone it to the board as well.
Attach the cap and resistor to the side of it with zip ties.
Drill some holes in the corners of the board for screws that can attach it to the back wall.
-
And all three components are wires in parallel, correct?
-
Here's how I put mine together
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97445)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97446)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97447)
Mike
-
Yep, just like that.
-
Thanks, guys.
I'm brimming with confidence now......well, mostly.... :wink:
Next noob question: Are the caps or resistors directional? Is one side + and the other - ?
Mlundy,
Awesome pics! :thumb:
-
Thanks, guys.
I'm brimming with confidence now......well, mostly.... :wink:
Next noob question: Are the caps or resistors directional? Is one side + and the other - ?
Mlundy,
Awesome pics! :thumb:
They are not directional, but run them in the same direction on both speakers.
-
Two LGK 1.0 noobs walk into a bar and order drinks. The first one says to the other: So far my only mistake is the internal braces in one speaker aren't exactly aligned (holes are offset rather than exactly aligned) even though I had written an F and an R so as to avoid making this mistake. :duh: The 2nd noob says to the first: Well, my mistake was to cut the No Rez 7.25 inches long (instead of 7") and I didn't discover my mistake until after I had pressed the sheet down hard onto the inside of the speaker. :slap: Luckily, I was able to cut the excess away without damaging the cabinet.
Those two noobs had a couple more drinks all the while assuring each other they'd make no more mistakes. :wink: :dance:
-
Been out of town, got some more licks in today.
Here's a couple of teasers
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97589)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97590)
-
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97273)
Peter,
What is the dark stuff on the corners?
Mike
-
Been out of town, got some more licks in today.
Here's a couple of teasers
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97589)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97590)
It looks like you camphored the edges after the veneer was applied. Is that correct?
Mike
-
Right you are Mike.
I glued in 3/8 x 3/8 strips of Wenge in first photo, then veneered box in what I think is rosewood (long story), and then chamfered vertical edges and top. The black and white photo shows them with a first seal coat of shellac. From here, I'll use grain filler, several coats of high build catalyzed sealer and finish up with pre-cat lacquer. Should be a really nice finish.
-
Peter J that edge treatment is super classy. Can't wait to see the finished product.
BK
-
Right you are Mike.
I glued in 3/8 x 3/8 strips of Wenge in first photo, then veneered box in what I think is rosewood (long story), and then chamfered vertical edges and top. The black and white photo shows them with a first seal coat of shellac. From here, I'll use grain filler, several coats of high build catalyzed sealer and finish up with pre-cat lacquer. Should be a really nice finish.
Peter,
If you were going to chamfer the edges, what was the purpose of the Wenge strips? Didn't the champfer cut through the strips?
Mike
-
Peter,
If you were going to chamfer the edges, what was the purpose of the Wenge strips? Didn't the champfer cut through the strips?
Mike
I was wondering the exact same thing.... maybe a guede for putting onthe "main" veneer" so it would line up perfectly with a 3/8" chamfer with out having to cut through the veneer and risk chipping ?
-jay
-
When I chamfer the edges it exposes the wenge. Makes sort of a frame for the rosewood. Sharp bit, climb cutting and masking tape keeps veneer from chipping.
Unfortunately, I just screwed these up in a big way. I used a water based grain filler for the first time. Should've experimented on something besides the finished product. Finish coats show all kinds of blotching and uneven color, I'll have to tone the cabs heavily with dye to blend it all which will mostly obliterate the grain.
Live and learn... should've stuck with what I know. Guess that gives me an excuse to build another pair of perhaps five for a mini home theater...
-
Pretty cool Peter :thumb:
I saw something similar done to some baes using a strip of hardwood on the ouotside edge/ face and then veneer on top.
Sorry to hear you've run into some problems with the water based grain filler.
-jay
-
A bunch of 1st time building/newbie questions?
I would love for these to be my first GR build but need advise on changing the box design for custom 45deg computer desk , where i sit maybe only 16" from this spec box design.
1. Could I make the box shallower and add height ?
2. Could the port be moved to the front ,to allow back of box to be tight against the wall?
3. Would it also benefit by raising the driver closer to ear height ("say 16") and maybe angle a bid , for one reason only , to play at low "DB" levels
for late night listing "when all in the house are sleeping?
4. what would be the safest way to run these on a larger amp (too many around here to use) and leave them at FULLRange/no sub without damaging them?
i am guessing Ill be using a 60w integrated amp if i can work this out.
Thanks as I'm just now getting back to this hobby.
-
A bunch of 1st time building/newbie questions?
I would love for these to be my first GR build but need advise on changing the box design for custom 45deg computer desk , where i sit maybe only 16" from this spec box design.
1. Could I make the box shallower and add height ?
2. Could the port be moved to the front ,to allow back of box to be tight against the wall?
3. Would it also benefit by raising the driver closer to ear height ("say 16") and maybe angle a bid , for one reason only , to play at low "DB" levels
for late night listing "when all in the house are sleeping?
4. what would be the safest way to run these on a larger amp (too many around here to use) and leave them at FULLRange/no sub without damaging them?
i am guessing Ill be using a 60w integrated amp if i can work this out.
Thanks as I'm just now getting back to this hobby.
I'll take at stab at some of this.
1. I think so, within reason. If I understand (questionable), more depth than width is desirable. If there's a ratio, I'm not aware of it. Danny can shed light here, I imagine.
2. Don't think so, Danny prototyped it on front and didn't like results. Perhaps side?
3.Ear height is good, don't know that it will affect "hear-ability" elsewhere in the house. I use headphones for this scenario.
4. Judicious use of volume control. I would think overdriving them would be fairly obvious at the listening distance. You might want to reconsider sub, well integrated it makes a big difference in believability.
This build might prove useful, as I explored some possibilities;
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=103789.0
-
As mentioned above, I goofed up. Once I saw that I was way off track from what I was shooting for, I necessarily went a different direction. I guess it's a lesson I needed to relearn...
Not awful, but not what they could be.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97669)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97670)
-
1. Could I make the box shallower and add height ?
Box depth is important. As is goes away so does some of its transparency. It will sound more boxed.
2. Could the port be moved to the front ,to allow back of box to be tight against the wall?
Moving the port to the front adversely effects the response and muddies up the lower region. You can used sealed boxes though.
3. Would it also benefit by raising the driver closer to ear height ("say 16") and maybe angle a bid , for one reason only , to play at low "DB" levels
for late night listing "when all in the house are sleeping?
You can make stands for them or add additional box height with a false bottom.
4. what would be the safest way to run these on a larger amp (too many around here to use) and leave them at FULLRange/no sub without damaging them?
If you aren't filtering the lows off in some way then control them with your volume knob. You'll have more than enough power for them to quickly reach their X-Max. So just don't over drive them.
-
As mentioned above, I goofed up. Once I saw that I was way off track from what I was shooting for, I necessarily went a different direction. I guess it's a lesson I needed to relearn...
Not awful, but not what they could be.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97669)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97670)
Very nice Peter. I think they look great :thumb:
-jay
-
Very nice Peter. I think they look great :thumb:
-jay
Ditto.
And I'm sure they look even better in person, hard to capture a nice finish in pictures.
I'm hoping my efforts won't be embarrassed in comparison :D
Randy
-
WOW , thanks for the quick reply Danny .
I guess I should just build a stock pair , before I try and butcher up a 2nd pair by changing the box design .
How about material for Box , would it be OK to us an actual HARDWOOD (maybe walnut) instead of a MDF/laminate as these are so small?
So how do I go about ordering a LGK 1.0 KIT , as I do not see them on your site . I just the driver?
-
WOW , thanks for the quick reply Danny .
I guess I should just build a stock pair , before I try and butcher up a 2nd pair by changing the box design .
How about material for Box , would it be OK to us an actual HARDWOOD (maybe walnut) instead of a MDF/laminate as these are so small?
So how do I go about ordering a LGK 1.0 KIT , as I do not see them on your site . I just the driver?
Hardwood is much more resonant. So you might get a little unwanted buzz with it. It's better to use MDF then just skin it with a thin layer of hardwood.
You can call to order: 940-592-3400
-
Ditto.
And I'm sure they look even better in person, hard to capture a nice finish in pictures.
I'm hoping my efforts won't be embarrassed in comparison :D
Randy
Randy, camera flash is typically hard to deal with, I try to use natural light where possible, so they're pretty close to what they actually look like.
Your efforts will be just fine, I'm sure, no embarrassments whatever the outcome. For better or worse, I have boat loads of ideas about speaker box design, a few if which I actually build! I post photos in hopes that someone might take away a little inspiration. In turn I get to see their ideas come to fruition. Thus, I can fuel my crazy fire some more!
-
Two things:
Peter,
Considering you said you had made a mistake with the veneer, your speakers look extremely nice. Mine, if I ever finish them, will get a coat of primer and one or two coats of whatever leftover paint is in the garage. They could end up lavender, white, cake batter :o, or an olive drab-like color. It all depends on what is available. At best, mine will look plain.
My second thing is (to any and all experienced hands):
Okay. I've got the coil, cap, and inductor snugly attached to a piece of board with zip ties and silicone glue. I know they will be attached (screwed to) the back walls behind the drivers, but...
Correct me if I am wrong in my assumption:
I attach the red wire from the amp to one side of the filter and the white wire to the other side. Another red wire will lead from the filter/amp wire connection to one of the driver connections; ditto with a white wire. Does it matter if I attach the red wire to either driver connection? I mean is there a right way and a catastrophic way? So long as there is a circuit does it matter which direction the electrons are flowing?
[I just attached speaker wires to the filter and the included red and white wires to a driver. Success! I got music. :D I got music even if I switched polarity, but I want to think only one connection was correct and reversing polarity may damage the driver??? (Yes/No?)]
I hope I haven't confused you horribly just now. Thanks for the hand holding.
-
Michael,
Maybe I am misreading you and this is what you did. I understood the connection as follows (leaving the terminals/Electra Tubes out of the equation for simplicity):
Amp Positive ---> 1 side of filter nework
Other side of the filter network --> Driver Positive terminal
Amp Negative -----> Driver Negative terminal
In other words, the negative side of the amp and negative side of driver will never touch the filter network.
I attach the red wire from the amp to one side of the filter and the white wire to the other side. Another red wire will lead from the filter/amp wire connection to one of the driver connections; ditto with a white wire. Does it matter if I attach the red wire to either driver connection? I mean is there a right way and a catastrophic way? So long as there is a circuit does it matter which direction the electrons are flowing?
[I just attached speaker wires to the filter and the included red and white wires to a driver. Success! I got music. :D I got music even if I switched polarity, but I want to think only one connection was correct and reversing polarity may damage the driver??? (Yes/No?)]
-
Mlundy on the page back posted this:
Just like baniels says:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97835)
Then white to white (negative to negative on driver)
-
In other words, the negative side of the amp and negative side of driver will never touch the filter network.
Yes, the compensation filter is just on the positive leg just as the picture shows.
-
Clarity! :D
For some reason (inexperience), I thought the filter must be filtering both the positive and the negative. Now that I see your answers, I understand.
This is a little (or a lot) like learning a foreign language for me. You constantly make blunders as you progress. Take a few steps; fall down; get back up. Repeat cycle until you 'dance'. I can't help but wonder if you guys find my naivete refreshing, amusing, or disconcerting. No worries. My speakers will be dancing in no time!
:thumb:
-
I can't help but wonder if you guys find my naivete refreshing, amusing, or disconcerting.
Normal. We were all there once too.
-
As mentioned above, I goofed up. Once I saw that I was way off track from what I was shooting for, I necessarily went a different direction. I guess it's a lesson I needed to relearn...
Not awful, but not what they could be.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97669)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97670)
Peter,
I know it wasn't the look you were wanting but they turned out looking very nice anyway. I have been discovering that gaining skill as a woodworker isn't so much getting everything perfect the first time but learning how to fix screw ups so that nobody but you know about it :lol:
Sometime you will have to explain climb cutting and the use of masking tape when cutting through one layer of veneer without chipping the one below. That sounds like a very useful technique.
Mike
-
Peter,
I know it wasn't the look you were wanting but they turned out looking very nice anyway. I have been discovering that gaining skill as a woodworker isn't so much getting everything perfect the first time but learning how to fix screw ups so that nobody but you know about it :lol:
Sometime you will have to explain climb cutting and the use of masking tape when cutting through one layer of veneer without chipping the one below. That sounds like a very useful technique.
Mike
Mike, years ago I heard something similar, which I paraphrase because I don't precisely remember it. "The mark of a craftsman is not his work, but how well he covers his mistakes". Having done this for a long time, I have indeed gotten better at covering my errors. I don't like making them any less than I used to, but having many rabbits in my hat makes unexpected course changes easier. Seems I get more philosophical as I age...
To clarify, the 3/8" x 3/8" pieces are solid Wenge, perhaps the photos will tell the story better. Climb cutting is simply a technique that moves router (or stock) with direction of blade rotation as opposed to against it. It's counter intuitive and can be dangerous, but lessens chipout. Small bites and good feed control are the keys.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97845)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97846)
-
Peter,
Now I understand. Much clearer, thank you. I know "climb cutting" as "reverse routing".
Mike
-
My imagination gets rolling and, well, here's the result. Please weigh in on what you think looks best.
Feet or no feet?
If yes three or four?
Silver or black screws?
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97869)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97870)
-
Black screws and 3 Black feet.
Steve
-
I guess I like the black screws and four feet, but the three feet look good too.
The cabinets look great!
-
Black screws, no feet , I like the clean look
-jay
-
I like the black screws and three feet.
-
Peter, your mistake cabinets look better than a normal person's best! I like contrast in things (like painted wheel centers with polished hoops---the American Racing Torq Thrust II comes to mind), so I would get a set of the nickel plated brass spikes that Dayton makes and Parts Express sells. They're 1/2" in diameter, and come in two lengths, about 5/8" and 1-1/4". Provided with both are 6mm threaded inserts that the spikes screw into, and four of the spikes would look great providing contrast (along with the similar-looking dustcap of the driver) to the beautiful wood cabinets. They have nice clean lines, elegant almost, and would continue the long vertical movement of your enclosure. $10.99/set of four. Silver screw heads, however, would look too busy, and would spoil the nice dustcap vs. black cone contrast.
-
I like the black screws but would consider 3 feet in reverse of your picture - 2 on the front sides and one invisible in the back middle. Hope I am making my idea clear.
-
Ahhhh, we have consensus....on the screws!
By and large I want to explore things that aren't common, I suppose.
Black feet is an interesting idea, a matte finish like the driver frame might tie in better than the silver I envisioned to mimic driver center. Spikes, I'm afraid, wouldn't work on this particular pair because of enclosure thickness...I'd have to beef up bottom thickness earlier in build. I also thought about three foot reversal, gotta see what that looks like. Hmmm, three footed reversal, sounds like a wrestling move!
Kinda fun to group design. As our granddaughter said to me as we were tugging a leaf filled tarp from the trailer at the dump, "we're working together!"
-
I love the look of your speakers with the feet you are using! I think they look awesome with either option. What are you using for the feet?
tom
-
I love the look of your speakers with the feet you are using! I think they look awesome with either option. What are you using for the feet?
tom
Thanks Tom, I'm kinda liking the direction they're heading now too. I put some black tape on a foot to get a feel for what it would look like and liking that too.
Don't laugh, my feet aren't really feet at all
http://www.myknobs.com/libharalcolp1.html
I'll either have to drill a mounting hole or use killer double sided tape to mount.
-
Peter,
Carpet tape would probably be strong enough to hold and thin enough not to be seen when the feet are mounted. I have to be very careful when using it to temporarily hold two pieces together. If I use too big a piece of tape I have a devil of a time getting the two pieces of material back apart.
Epoxy would be another option.
Mike
-
Finished 'em. Steve, good call on the black feet.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98023)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98024)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98025)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98028)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98033)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98034)
-
Just finished mine all up. Listening impressions to follow in a couple of days.
(http://i.imgur.com/noGLSRi.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/CO2A4CC.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/16lJQo3.jpg)
-
The white cabinets look really nice :thumb:
What speakers are those behind the LGKs?
-
The white cabinets look really nice :thumb:
What speakers are those behind the LGKs?
Thanks so much!
The other speakers are my own design. Aura NS3's mated with some Seas tweeters. They are nice, but I think I'm going to work them into a 3-way on top of some Exodus Anarchy 6.5"s.
-
Thanks so much!
The other speakers are my own design. Aura NS3's mated with some Seas tweeters. They are nice, but I think I'm going to work them into a 3-way on top of some Exodus Anarchy 6.5"s.
The Anarchy is a beast of a 6.5". If you have the power, thay will be fun to play with 8)
-
I found some veneer I thought would look good on my LGK's and ordered it tonight. It's raw wood flat cut Mozambique. Looking forward to finishing these puppies up.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98201)
Mike
-
Man, that looks like it should be very beautiful. Actually reminds me a bit of your N3's
-jay
-
Jay,
I had never heard of Mozambique but it does remind me of the Rosewood Santos (Pau Ferro) I used on the N3s. A little darker but pretty close.
This is raw wood rather than backed like I used on the N3s. Never used raw wood before so I will get to learn a new technique. Also, these were closeout lots at veneersupplies.com so at that price I was able to buy enough that I can afford to make some mistakes in the learning process.
Mike
-
The LGK 1.0 Kits are now available for order online. http://gr-research.com/lgk10kit.aspx
-
Danny,
I just wanted to tell you how much I (and my wife!!--no small feat there) enjoy the LGK 1.0 speakers in our bedroom system. I was amazed at how much bass they knock out considering the drivers are 'just' 3". Now I understand why you have such a following. Damned nice sound! :thumb: Thank you, sir!
Big +1!
-
I've just moved offices and I'm thinking of getting a better office system. Would these work with a flea powered amp, like one of these or even a headphone amp?
https://tubedepot.com/products/tubecube-7-stereo-vacuum-tube-amplifier
-
I've just moved offices and I'm thinking of getting a better office system. Would these work with a flea powered amp, like one of these or even a headphone amp?
https://tubedepot.com/products/tubecube-7-stereo-vacuum-tube-amplifier
That would be just enough power to drive them as desk top speakers if you are sitting right in front of them.
That little amp is certainly cheap enough. The power cable I'd plug into it cost twice that much.
-
I know. It's silly cheap. I'm in a 12' * 12' office, and I can't really crank them up to 11, so I might take a flyer on the amp.
-
I assume they would really sing with something like this though,
http://www.wrightaudio.us/royale_series_2.htm
-
I had been powering mine with an OddWatt PodWatt (5wpc) http://www.oddwattaudio.com/owpoddwatt.html for quite awhile and it did a very nice job. While it comes as a kit, you can also have it assembled.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=128994)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=128995)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=128996)
At $725 for the kit (plus $150 to be built 2 years ago) these are inexpensive as far as tube amps go but not silly cheap.
Mike
-
Danny - How would the sound of the LGK compare with the the A/V1s? I see they are 1db/w different in terms of sensitivity. How do they compare in terms of power required and efficiency? The AV1s might raise more eyebrows at the office since they are bigger, and deeper.
Thanks.
-
Danny - How would the sound of the LGK compare with the the A/V1s? I see they are 1db/w different in terms of sensitivity. How do they compare in terms of power required and efficiency? The AV1s might raise more eyebrows at the office since they are bigger, and deeper.
Thanks.
The LGK's hold there own in the mid-range. And in a small untreated room the more limited off axis response of the 3" drivers can be an advantage.
The A/V-1 will play lower, louder, and have more dynamics. The tweeter outshines the LGK's in the top octaves too.
-
Thanks. I have a habit of upselling myself, so I'm now eyeing the N3S instead. That 91db sensitivity and 8-5.2 ohms should make them even better for a SET amp in a small room. Seems ideal, coupled with a PE MTM enclosure. Just need to wait for those Neo 3s I guess.
Explaining the 20" high speakers on my desk will not be easy though...
-
Thanks. I have a habit of upselling myself, so I'm now eyeing the N3S instead. That 91db sensitivity and 8-5.2 ohms should make them even better for a SET amp in a small room. Seems ideal, coupled with a PE MTM enclosure. Just need to wait for those Neo 3s I guess.
Explaining the 20" high speakers on my desk will not be easy though...
The N3S speakers are great, but out of stock until I can acquire more tweeters.
-
I'll wait. And continue to research SET amps while waiting. Since my main system is a pair of LS9s with 480w of tube power (not counting subs) - I figured I'd try the opposite end of the spectrum for my office.
I've got my eye on this - http://www.wrightaudio.us/royale_series_2.htm
I like the pre-out with adjustable gain feature. I could try it bi-amping my OB7s.
If I get the N3S that will make my tally 4 pairs of your speakers. I've definitely joined the fan club.
Thanks.
-
If anyone is on the fence about getting a set of these little monsters I would like to offer my full endorsement for them.
I ordered a couple of pairs for a car audio installation and couldn't wait to hear them so I through the in a set of enclosures from the Klipsch ProMedia sets and was blown away. I ended up spending the next 3 hours listening to everything from Quincy Jones and Clair Marlo to Motley Crue and Metalica. They can truly cover it all.
I cant wait to get them into their actual intended install location and see how they perform. I am probably also going to end up getting a 3rd set with the correction filter to use in my office at home.
Definitely a home run on Danny's part!
-
If anyone is on the fence about getting a set of these little monsters I would like to offer my full endorsement for them.
I ordered a couple of pairs for a car audio installation and couldn't wait to hear them so I through the in a set of enclosures from the Klipsch ProMedia sets and was blown away. I ended up spending the next 3 hours listening to everything from Quincy Jones and Clair Marlo to Motley Crue and Metalica. They can truly cover it all.
I cant wait to get them into their actual intended install location and see how they perform. I am probably also going to end up getting a 3rd set with the correction filter to use in my office at home.
Definitely a home run on Danny's part!
How easy was it to replace the promedia speakers? I'd be interested in hearing the details of the mod. I've skimmed through some of the reviews of the promedia 2.1 online and it sounds like a system with a lot of potential with the mods you're speaking of..
-
If anyone is on the fence about getting a set of these little monsters I would like to offer my full endorsement for them.
I ordered a couple of pairs for a car audio installation and couldn't wait to hear them so I through the in a set of enclosures from the Klipsch ProMedia sets and was blown away. I ended up spending the next 3 hours listening to everything from Quincy Jones and Clair Marlo to Motley Crue and Metalica. They can truly cover it all.
I cant wait to get them into their actual intended install location and see how they perform. I am probably also going to end up getting a 3rd set with the correction filter to use in my office at home.
Definitely a home run on Danny's part!
How do you put these drivers in a car?
-
I'll wait. And continue to research SET amps while waiting. Since my main system is a pair of LS9s with 480w of tube power (not counting subs) - I figured I'd try the opposite end of the spectrum for my office.
I've got my eye on this - http://www.wrightaudio.us/royale_series_2.htm
I like the pre-out with adjustable gain feature. I could try it bi-amping my OB7s.
If I get the N3S that will make my tally 4 pairs of your speakers. I've definitely joined the fan club.
Thanks.
I assume that means 240w/ch! How many tubes are involved? I got rid of my Atma-Sphere M60's, one reason being their 8 output tubes per channel which produced only 60 watts (OTL amps are very inefficient). I'm in the California desert now, and my electric bill (the air conditioner is electric, of course) this Summer was $500/month! My current amp (Music Reference RM-200) produces 100w/ch from only a single pair of KT88's per. MUCH cheaper to own and operate, and just as good sounding.
-
Peter, youre the man, those look awesome.. I would love some in rosewood veneer but have no skills... haha will have to give it a try anyway...
-
One nice thing about the size of these speakers is that they are small enough you don't need a lot of veneer. This means you can find some really good closeout deals on some pretty exotic veneer. I was able to find some crotch walnut raw wood veneer in large enough pieces to cover each side in a single piece and keep the best parts of the figure.
I really liked the three dimensional texture of this veneer so I intentionally left the wood rough, not sanded smooth. Because of this, they do not have any gloss to them even though they have three coats of poly.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=130218)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=130220)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=130222)
Mike
-
I really liked the three dimensional texture of this veneer so I intentionally left the wood rough
Very nice Mike. One of my favorite veneers... the 3-D depth can be spectacular.
-
How easy was it to replace the promedia speakers? I'd be interested in hearing the details of the mod. I've skimmed through some of the reviews of the promedia 2.1 online and it sounds like a system with a lot of potential with the mods you're speaking of..
I wouldn't call it a "mod" by any stretch. I was in a pinch and my OCD took over and I started looking for something that they would fit it.
Four screws and the from plate of the ProMedia pods come off with the speakers attached. I disconnected the tweeter replace the woofer and screwed them back together. By no means is it optimal but they still sound fantastic.
-
How do you put these drivers in a car?
I still have to play with the locations to see what sounds the best but these are going in a F150 as the high-end of a 2-way front stage. They will be actively high passed ~300-500 at 24db.
Initial thoughts are installing them in either the sail panels or in fiberglass pods on the A-pillars. Again, still lots of experimenting to do.
-
I wouldn't call it a "mod" by any stretch. I was in a pinch and my OCD took over and I started looking for something that they would fit it.
Four screws and the from plate of the ProMedia pods come off with the speakers attached. I disconnected the tweeter replace the woofer and screwed them back together. By no means is it optimal but they still sound fantastic.
.. 'sound fantastic' pretty much says it all. And probably even a total klutz like me could do it. AND the price is certainly right!
What did you replace the woofer with?
-
I still have to play with the locations to see what sounds the best but these are going in a F150 as the high-end of a 2-way front stage. They will be actively high passed ~300-500 at 24db.
Initial thoughts are installing them in either the sail panels or in fiberglass pods on the A-pillars. Again, still lots of experimenting to do.
What did you use for the high pass?
-
.. 'sound fantastic' pretty much says it all. And probably even a total klutz like me could do it. AND the price is certainly right!
What did you replace the woofer with?
I am still using the stock Klipsch woofer. Again these are just the speakers I have in my office to have something to listen when I work from home.
-
What did you use for the high pass?
I havent changed anything other that the LGK's. I friend of mine went through the circuits on the Promedia amps a couple years back because I was able to get about 10 of them dirt cheap through a wholesaler. What he found was that there was about a 100hz crossover between the sub and satellites.
-
Hello all, I'm starting an LGK build but I'm using 3/4 MDF. I've adjusted the dimensions so that the internal volume is the same (including increasing the height by 1/4" to compensate for the increased volume of the braces).
My question relates to the compensation circuitry. It is designed for a 4.5" baffle while my baffle will be 5". Jay and Mike have suggested using a round off on the vertical edges to better approximate the original design of the baffle. As this is my first build I want to cover all basses and get it just exactly perfect.
-
Hello all, I'm starting an LGK build but I'm using 3/4 MDF. I've adjusted the dimensions so that the internal volume is the same (including increasing the height by 1/4" to compensate for the increased volume of the braces).
My question relates to the compensation circuitry. It is designed for a 4.5" baffle while my baffle will be 5". Jay and Mike have suggested using a round off on the vertical edges to better approximate the original design of the baffle. As this is my first build I want to cover all basses and get it just exactly perfect.
No problem. Just add a 3/8" round over and you're fine. You can even push it to 1/2" round over if you want.
-
As suggested in the emails George, if you go with the .5" radius, make sure it leaves enough "flat:" on the baffle for the driver flange. I'm not famaliar with the LGK driver's dimensions, just worth checking :)
jay
-
Thanks ! Working on some family stuff today but hope to make all my cuts tomorrow.
:thumb: :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :thumb: