[Toecutter]

My kit is arriving soon . Finishing up the boxes. What's the hole size for the ports and binding post cups? It's not on the plans online.
Also the cards for the xover 4x8 inches about the right size ?

[EdwardT]

My xover boards are more like 4x6  but if you orient it front to rear on the bottom 4x8 should be fine. You'll appreciate the extra room.

[Toecutter]

Thanks

[Peter J]

The crossover board I include in flat packs is 4 3/4" x 8 1/4"... fits just inside of installed NoRez. The 2" hole used to be right, but included ports have changed recently and are sloppy in a 2" hole. If you want a friction fit as intended it'd have to be closer to 1 15/16".

[Toecutter]

Peter j in the nick of time was just about to drill.

[Bullitt5094]

I am never lucky enough to have components fit if I use plans to size the holes. Invariably when I get the parts, something is a different size. I've learned to measure the actual component, THEN size the hole. And if in doubt or if I  need something to fit snugly, I'll put a hole in some scrap and test it.

But again... that's my luck. I bet everything always works for Peter. He has that Karma going.

[Peter J]

Agreed on having components on hand before cutting.

Karma? I trust I've got it going the right direction, but when it comes to my mistakes made I think I've noticed this; they're fewer and further between now, but bigger and more expensive...so balanced, right?

[Toecutter]

I can be impatient,  if I waited  for the components I would rush the speaker box.
Hope things fit took a week to turn a pile of mdf shaving into a speaker box.







Have to wait for clear to cure then wetsand and buff.

[Hobbsmeerkat]

Dont forget the cut-out to fit the tweeter terminals into the hole.

Looks great so far!

[Bullitt5094]

Looking at the dimensions I settled on with my CNC on my recent build the tweeter hole was 3.15" D, the tweeter flange was 3.95" D and a depth of .22" but don't use that depth dimension because that was allowing for the thickness of the veneer I was going to use. You really have to use a stack-up dimension with that to include the flange thickness plus any veneer and gasket behind the flange.  The woofer hole was 5.75"D.

That doesn't mean these numbers will be exactly right for you. The most critical dimensions are the Diameter and Depth of the Tweeter flange to make it look right. With the tweeters I received that was almost a press fit at 3.95 which is what I wanted. I trial and errored a couple of times with some scrap to get that right even after using a Mic to measure it as a starting dimension.

Yours are looking awesome. May the Fit Force be with you!

[Bullitt5094]

[Toecutter]

Looking at the dimensions I settled on with my CNC on my recent build the tweeter hole was 3.15" D, the tweeter flange was 3.95" D and a depth of .22" but don't use that depth dimension because that was allowing for the thickness of the veneer I was going to use. You really have to use a stack-up dimension with that to include the flange thickness plus any veneer and gasket behind the flange.  The woofer hole was 5.75"D.

That doesn't mean these numbers will be exactly right for you. The most critical dimensions are the Diameter and Depth of the Tweeter flange to make it look right. With the tweeters I received that was almost a press fit at 3.95 which is what I wanted. I trial and errored a couple of times with some scrap to get that right even after using a Mic to measure it as a starting dimension.

Yours are looking awesome. May the Fit Force be with you!

No cnc here everything was cut with a chopsaw, holesaw, jigsaw and chisel.

[Bullitt5094]

You wanted a confirmation of dimensions. I stated plans aren't always accurate for production dimensions of hardware. I wanted to let you know what I actually used from a very recent build, which is likely close to the component size you'll receive in your kit since mine was very recent too. Thought you may want to verify your chisel was accurate. I think my first Car Audio Subwoofer build I made the hole with a jig saw. And not an electric one either. 

[Toecutter]

UPS just dropped off the kit, all the parts for the most part fit, have to rasp out the tweeter hole, which was expected I used a 3 inch hole saw. And I may have to even out the tweeter recess a bit ,to make it perfect.

[Speaker Challenged]

UPS just dropped off the kit, all the parts for the most part fit, have to rasp out the tweeter hole, which was expected I used a 3 inch hole saw. And I may have to even out the tweeter recess a bit ,to make it perfect.

Toecutter rasp out the inside edge of the woofer hole. You need to round it over on the inside of the box. I believe it helps with resonance issues and lets the woofer work freely? Hobbs?

Jason

[Speaker Challenged]

Amazing finish. Great work.

SC

[Speaker Challenged]

I can be impatient,  if I waited  for the components I would rush the speaker box.
Hope things fit took a week to turn a pile of mdf shaving into a speaker box.







Have to wait for clear to cure then wetsand and buff.

Looking really good. When doing mine it goes something like this. Paint, sand, paint, sand, paint, wets and, buff, wets and, buff.