New member's V-2 build [Complete]

Groundzero · « **Reply #20 on:** 18 Nov 2010, 07:19 am »

Been working on them all day, here are the results so far:

Crossovers nice and tightly zip tied in place.

I used a side cutting bit to make little channels on the bottom for the zip ties so that the crossover sat flat.

Did a mock-up to keep myself motivated for sanding

I sanded all the joints flush then applied the first coat of primer. I didn't do some parts because the Padauk will be covering the sides, and No Rez will cover the insides. All the non-covered MDF parts are going to be gloss black to contrast with the red Padauk.

rajacat · « **Reply #21 on:** 18 Nov 2010, 08:41 am »

Very nice!

Clever crossover board. Please keep the pics coming.

-Roy

sl_1800 · « **Reply #22 on:** 18 Nov 2010, 01:59 pm »

Very nice work, keep the pics coming, I'm looking forward to seeing this speaker completed.

TomS · « **Reply #23 on:** 18 Nov 2010, 02:09 pm »

Man, that wood is to die for. Wish I could find that sort of thing around here. Well, maybe I can, but it would cost more than the kit did and then some

Those are going to be awesome when you're finished. Have fun and keep the pics coming!

Tom

Groundzero · « **Reply #24 on:** 19 Nov 2010, 02:32 am »

Thanks everyone, glad you like them

I put on the second coat of primer today and stunk up the entire house again. The primer I'm using is actually two part boat paint that my brother brought me from his work. It's free (to me at least), extremely durable, and sands silky smooth. The only thing not to love about it is the toxic fumes, hence the respirator.

So far it looks like I'll need three coats of primer but I'll have to see when they are done. The stuff takes 10hrs to dry so this is turning into one coat a day, on one side the pieces. Priming is likely going to take me into next week to finish.

Groundzero · « **Reply #25 on:** 19 Nov 2010, 06:23 am »

Danny or anyone knowledgeable on the topic,
I have a question about side panels. I made a quick drawing of my idea to help illustrate. The part highlighted in red, will it cause reflections? If it would, can covering that area with No Rez help? Before I start cutting the panels I want to make sure it will be okay.

Thanks

Danny Richie · « **Reply #26 on:** 19 Nov 2010, 02:51 pm »

Quote from: Groundzero on 19 Nov 2010, 06:23 am

Danny or anyone knowledgeable on the topic,
I have a question about side panels. I made a quick drawing of my idea to help illustrate. The part highlighted in red, will it cause reflections? If it would, can covering that area with No Rez help? Before I start cutting the panels I want to make sure it will be okay.

You do have to be careful not to add too much there or it will cause a resonance cavity. It is hard to say how much effect there will be on that one, but there could be a little. That is a 10.5" diameter space between those sides. So any wavelengths shorter than that will have a slight problem. On a good note though is that a 10.5" wavelength
about 1,200Hz. And since the woofer only plays up to a 1kHz crossover point, I think you'll be alright.

Tyson · « **Reply #27 on:** 20 Nov 2010, 01:56 am »

I agree, you want the midrange driver to be as close to "free space" as possible, and your high side panels will make it more of a semi-horn-loaded rear wave.

Groundzero · « **Reply #28 on:** 20 Nov 2010, 02:16 am »

Thanks Danny and Tyson. I guess I'll go redesign them in sketch-up before continuing.

corndog71 · « **Reply #29 on:** 20 Nov 2010, 02:32 am »

Measure twice, cut once.

PDR · « **Reply #30 on:** 20 Nov 2010, 03:02 am »

Can hardly wait to see those finished.......

Groundzero · « **Reply #31 on:** 24 Nov 2010, 07:55 pm »

Sorry for the lack of updates guys. I've been having to wait extra long for the coats to dry because of the colder weather. As it stands the boxes are all ready for me to start the black, but the rest of the pieces need the other side done. Also I need to get the P-audio piece rounded over on the back before starting.

kp93300 · « **Reply #32 on:** 1 Dec 2010, 02:01 am »

Hi Groundzero,
Any updates on your V2 build ?
More pictures to inspire me as I am hoping to start mine soon.
thanks
kp93300

Groundzero · « **Reply #33 on:** 1 Dec 2010, 02:48 am »

Hi kp,
Funny you should ask, I was planning on posting updates today

The priming is taking a lot longer than I thought. The directions on the can say to allow 16hrs before sanding, but in the cold basement it is taking 24-30hrs. There are three coats on both sides of everything now and all I have to do is touch up a couple edges I sanded too much.

I glued and screwed on all the top pieces today also. I'm going to let the glue dry then go back with more primer to make all the joints completely flush.

In preparation for the side panels I tested some different finishes on pieces of scrap padauk. From left to right they are: Regular varnish, Spar urethane, Tung oil, Teak oil, and spray varnish. I ruled out varnishes because they don't dry properly on paduak due to the natural oil in the wood. Teak oil darkened it way too much, and spar urethane took on a yellowy hue. The large piece in the picture was done with Shellac, which I liked very much. However I can easily put scratches into it with my finger nail which I don't want. This is leads to Tung Oil as the winner.

Within the next day or two I should be able to start the black paint.

jeffh · « **Reply #34 on:** 1 Dec 2010, 03:18 am »

Tung Oil would have been my pick too.

driguy · « **Reply #35 on:** 1 Dec 2010, 07:55 am »

Quote from: Groundzero on 1 Dec 2010, 02:48 am

Hi kp,
Funny you should ask, I was planning on posting updates today

The priming is taking a lot longer than I thought. The directions on the can say to allow 16hrs before sanding, but in the cold basement it is taking 24-30hrs. There are three coats on both sides of everything now and all I have to do is touch up a couple edges I sanded too much.

I glued and screwed on all the top pieces today also. I'm going to let the glue dry then go back with more primer to make all the joints completely flush.

In preparation for the side panels I tested some different finishes on pieces of scrap padauk. From left to right they are: Regular varnish, Spar urethane, Tung oil, Teak oil, and spray varnish. I ruled out varnishes because they don't dry properly on paduak due to the natural oil in the wood. Teak oil darkened it way too much, and spar urethane took on a yellowy hue. The large piece in the picture was done with Shellac, which I liked very much. However I can easily put scratches into it with my finger nail which I don't want. This is leads to Tung Oil as the winner.

Within the next day or two I should be able to start the black paint.

The Padauk will get much darker and browner as time goes by especially with an oil finish that has very little UV protection. The tung oil will not darken like linseed oil but the wood exposed to air will darken. See the photo for reference. The sub modules are just a couple of months old but the baffles (barely visible at the right side of the photo) are a few years old. They will still look beautiful IMO so I would not worry about it. BTW, if your shop is cold the tung oil will take a very long time to dry. Do not attempt to put a coat of wax or any other finish over it until it fully dries. That may be in the spring.

kp93300 · « **Reply #36 on:** 1 Dec 2010, 12:11 pm »

Hi Ground zero,
I am planning on using tropical hardwood such as nyatoh as the side panel. Maybe i will explore some kitchen carbinet material also.
I have to engage a carpenter as i have zero woodworking skills.
Your workmanship is very nice .
Your amp is housed separately?
I have the crossover house separately in the OB 5 and certainly makes changing capacitors easier .

regards
kp93300

HT cOz · « **Reply #37 on:** 1 Dec 2010, 02:19 pm »

Waterlox is also a nice choice. I just used it on a floor project and plan to use it on my speakers.

jtwrace · « **Reply #38 on:** 1 Dec 2010, 02:21 pm »

Very nice craftsmanship.

Groundzero · « **Reply #39 on:** 1 Dec 2010, 06:12 pm »

Quote from: kp93300 on 1 Dec 2010, 12:11 pm

Your amp is housed separately?

regards
kp93300

Yes the amp is separate. You can see the pictures on the first page of the thread.