remote kit work with IRD purist

JoshK · « **on:** 19 Sep 2003, 06:37 pm »

Hello John,

I had a question in regards to your remote kit. I know they are for DACT attenuators but I was wondering if you think they might work for other stepped attenuators or whether they are very specific? I have an IRD Purist that I love but would enjoy having a remote volume control. Do you think this remote would work on this preamp's attenuator? I can probably scrounge up some pictures of it.

John Chapman · « **Reply #1 on:** 19 Sep 2003, 08:46 pm »

Hello!

It might be able to work and pics would help a lot. It would take a bit of mechanical tweaking I am sure. That Dact is actually super clean in that it fastens right to the back of the switch. The normal coupling to the Seiden is a timing belt and timing belt pulleys so you may be able to use a similar hookup with the IRD. Is it a stepped atteuator in the IRD?

Thansk!

John Chapman
www.bentaudio.com

JoshK · « **Reply #2 on:** 19 Sep 2003, 08:52 pm »

Thank John,

It is a stepped attenuator. Here is a pic that I hope helps.

John Chapman · « **Reply #3 on:** 20 Sep 2003, 12:53 am »

Hello!

Good pic and it shows the area well. We might be able to fit it just like the DACT. It looks like the switch is an elma and there is a little tab sticking out the back. On the dact that tab sticks out a bit from the white nylon bushing in a kind of arc. Does the tab stick out? If it does the DACT mod might bolt right on.

You'd also need to mount the remote pcb and drill a small hole for the IR reciever to peek through but that's not a big deal.

Thansk!

John

JoshK · « **Reply #4 on:** 22 Sep 2003, 03:56 pm »

I have a drill press and some good bits so I am not scared to drill the hole. Not sure where is the best place to mount the PCB, maybe on the front panel? Not sure.

I'll have to get back to you on whether the tab sticks out or not, haven't cracked it open yet.

John Chapman · « **Reply #5 on:** 22 Sep 2003, 06:24 pm »

Hello!

I almost always mount the PCB to the fron panel as the IR reciever is atteched to the PCB. This keeps it really clean and since the motor is wired to the PCB the spot just to the right (in the pic) looks like it'd work out perfect. Keep me posted on the tab and we'll set it up!

Thanks!

John

JoshK · « **Reply #6 on:** 18 Nov 2003, 09:01 pm »

John,

I haven't forgotten about this, just haven't had the chance to look yet. As soon as I sell my pre/pro I think I'll order one to try, that is if it looks like it'll work.

btw, John, what current rating does the circuit need? Curt suggested just tapping into my pre's p/s since it is a regulated 12vdc supply with holes already tapped.

John Chapman · « **Reply #7 on:** 18 Nov 2003, 11:47 pm »

Hello!

When you have time just let me know if it has the tab and I'll shoot one down to you.

It takes 12V and is clean to power from inside the chassis if you can scoop the power there. Takes about 300 mA or so when it is turning the motor - virtually no power consumed in standby. I use an 800 mA wall supply but that is oversized - as always.... About 1/2 the units I ship end up powered internally like that.

Many Thansk!

John

JoshK · « **Reply #8 on:** 19 Nov 2003, 02:00 pm »

John,

This is what Curt had to say about the attenuator tab:

Quote

Our switch is different from DACTs switch but the rear stub does look similar, you would need to check it out yourself

I am willing to give it a go, I'll email you as soon as my funds come through.

Cheers,
Josh

John Chapman · « **Reply #9 on:** 19 Nov 2003, 03:49 pm »

Hello!

If you shoot up and e-mail with your address I'll just send down a motor assembly so you can see it it will fit. Then if it's a go I can send the rest of the parts down later.

Thansk!

John

JoshK · « **Reply #10 on:** 19 Nov 2003, 03:58 pm »

Thanks for the generous offer, YGM!

JoshK · « **Reply #11 on:** 25 Nov 2003, 03:45 pm »

Doh!! It doesn't fit.

Unfortunately, the motor doesn't seem to be able to work with this preamp. I really REALLY wanted it to work but the problems seems not to be with the stub but the clearance. The motor just doesn't have enough room between the switch and a cap on the board behind the switch.

back to the drawing board...

John Chapman · « **Reply #12 on:** 25 Nov 2003, 04:25 pm »

Hello!

Thanks for checking. I guess the onloy way out would be to move the cap. I have tried smaller motors but they just can't spin the switches. Just curious - does the little bushing with the slot in it fit the tab? Is the back end of the switch fitting to the switch (mounting holes from plate to switch)?

Thansk!

John

JoshK · « **Reply #13 on:** 25 Nov 2003, 04:52 pm »

My guess is you were probably right that this is a Elna switch, actually it says "Elma" on the switch. The tab doesn't protrude very far but I think it might be able to be made to work, but it was a bit difficult to see as I couldn't put the motor there without the clearance.

I could move the cap as you suggested, maybe by extending leads from the circuit board to the cap but I think I would need to put some teflon around the leads to ensure that the leads don't short out on the motor as the fit would still be very tight between the circuit board and the motor.

John Chapman · « **Reply #14 on:** 25 Nov 2003, 05:23 pm »

Hello!

An easy way to see if the parts fit without the motor interfereing is just to remove the motor from the mounting plate then you can see it the plate/coupling fit the back end. If a fifferent plate and/or bushing are needed we can likely make some up.

Thansk!

John