[DanielSmi]

I got the speaker back from Danny and have been slowly making my way through the build, I also got speaker wire from him and I’ve never soldered before so I have been quadruple checking everything.

I think I’ve got the crossover figured out but was just looking for confirmation before soldering it




I’m trying to determine the best order to run the white wire, anyone have any suggestions?

[Magicman61]

Hello,
I am also a newbie doing the same modification.
This is my first post. Your board looks good to me.
It is my understanding that the "common" ground can be
tied in in a variety of ways. I  am NO expert!.

[Magicman61]

What are the dimensions of your board? Where inside the cabinet will you mount it? How did you measure for it?

[Magicman61]

My crossovers

[tengoku14]

Just ordered this! Can't wait to hear about all your results.

[DanielSmi]

What are the dimensions of your board? Where inside the cabinet will you mount it? How did you measure for it?

It's 6.5x5.25 inches, and I trimmed off the corners on one side. I'm putting it at the bottom rear of the speaker near where the OEM crossover was. My board is pretty cramped because it's a 2.5 way.

Where are you planning to put yours? I can't think of a better place.

Also I realized that GR Research didn't send me enough internal speaker wire so I called and ordered an extra 4 feet. I don't think I wasted any that came in the kit, they just didn't include enough. Since it's my speaker that he tested in the video I think I was the first person to get this kit, hopefully future kits include more speaker wire. The 3 sheets of NoRez was just enough to cover almost every surface in the speakers.

[Hobbsmeerkat]

Ideally, it supposed to be mounted on the back wall, somewhere behind the lower woofer. Should help maintain shorter runs to/from the drivers, Saving the long run for the tube connector/binding posts.

[Magicman61]

I too had to order more wire. MY plan is to mount at the bottom also.

[DanielSmi]

Ideally, it supposed to be mounted on the back wall, somewhere behind the lower woofer. Should help maintain shorter runs to/from the drivers, Saving the long run for the tube connector/binding posts.

I get that but that area is hard to access

[DanielSmi]

I finished wiring my first crossover tonight, the 2nd isn’t far behind. I think I got the white wire figured out. What do y’all think?


edit: I've removed my pics because there was a wiring mistake that I later identified and fixed, so I didn't want anyone to copy my mistake

[Hobbsmeerkat]

Looks good to me! 

[E-Zee]

Here's another RP-6000F layout if it's helpful to anyone.  This one actually shipped out it to the customer today. The small holes are for the customer to secure the internal wiring by zip tie, after connecting to the crossover leads.

ezeescrossovers.com

[DanielSmi]

Looks good to me! 

Wait… shouldn’t the incoming negative be connected to the resistor and the positive out on the tweeter circuit!?

Its not

 The incoming negative is connected to the outgoing negative on the tweeter circuit

[Hobbsmeerkat]

The polarity of the tweeter is flipped on most Klipsch Models so the input and output are reversed.

Oh wait, I see what you're saying now. Yes the - red wire should be the one connecting to the ground connection, not the + white one, due to the polaity flip.
So that would need to be fixed.

[DanielSmi]

Yes, I'm swapping the polarity on the crossover not at the speaker. So red will still go to positive terminal on the tweeter... after I get this fixed

[DanielSmi]

I'm trying to thinking of the least invasive way to wire this. I'm thinking I could run another white wire from the negative input tube connector to the resistor and Tweeter+

[DanielSmi]

I finished up with everything tonight, and have been listening ever since. My first impressions are much better imaging, a lot more detail, everything sounds more live, more hi-res. I have acoustic panels showing up in a couple of weeks that should really help

[DanielSmi]

If I can make a suggestion: You guys should include extra parts like internal speaker wire and heat shrink. I didn't have enough wire to connect the speakers at the original location so I ordered 4ft extra and that allowed me to finish the job until I realized I had made a mistake and had to run an extra 1ft of wire from the crossover to the tube connectors then I didn't have enough to connect all the speakers and I had to reuse some of the OEM internal wire so I could connect the lower woofer negative back to the crossover. I also because of beginner mistakes I made ran out of heat shrink so I had to purchase more.

You should assume that most people that order upgrade kits are doing this for the first time and you should include some extra supplies so they're not screwed if they put the crossover in a less than perfect location or make any wiring mistakes and have to redo anything. IKEA will include extra bolts and screws in their furniture kits because they know you might lose one.

An extra $3-4 in parts would save you in fewer emails or phone calls from customers having to order extra parts because something went less than perfect

[subsonic1050]

If I can make a suggestion: You guys should include extra parts like internal speaker wire and heat shrink. I didn't have enough wire to connect the speakers at the original location so I ordered 4ft extra and that allowed me to finish the job until I realized I had made a mistake and had to run an extra 1ft of wire from the crossover to the tube connectors then I didn't have enough to connect all the speakers and I had to reuse some of the OEM internal wire so I could connect the lower woofer negative back to the crossover. I also because of beginner mistakes I made ran out of heat shrink so I had to purchase more.

You should assume that most people that order upgrade kits are doing this for the first time and you should include some extra supplies so they're not screwed if they put the crossover in a less than perfect location or make any wiring mistakes and have to redo anything. IKEA will include extra bolts and screws in their furniture kits because they know you might lose one.

An extra $3-4 in parts would save you in fewer emails or phone calls from customers having to order extra parts because something went less than perfect

I'm actually with you on this one. I've purchased 2 sets of triple servo subs, a pair of x-statiks, and 2 sets of NX-Treme's. I haven't gotten the NX-Treme stuff yet, but on the servo subs I had JUST enough wire (I mean I had about an extra foot from 4 subs) and the X-Statiks I ran out of wire. I had to use some regular PVC jacketed stuff I had on the woofer circuit - on both speakers - it was really substantially too little wire. I will say that I ran my wires long because I built them with a removable base to which the crossover was attached - and the wires needed to be long enough to accommodate that. Even if I had sealed it all up it would have been very, very tight. I also had nowhere near enough solder with the X-Statik kit - maybe 1/4 of what was actually needed (fortunately I do a lot of soldering and have a bunch of high quality solder).

I like and respect GR Research for trying to keep costs down on these kits. The quality and performance to cost ratio is amazing. However, I personally would be happy to pay a few dollars more for some extra wire. In fact, before my NX-Treme parts ship I'm going to be giving Danny a call to see if I can have him add some extra wire to it (I think he charges like $.80 a foot?) because I don't want to be sweating about every last inch.

[EdwardT]

I made the mistake of assuming the speaker wire was sold in pairs instead of single run so my order of 8 feet netted me four feet of white and four feet of red. I accept responsibility for not asking the right questions and now I’m going to see if I can make the connections in a pair of SLS cabinets using 11 ft. of each color. I might fail but it’s worth a try and it’s a fair heads up for those ordering more cable.