AudioCircle
Industry Circles => GR Research => Topic started by: Danny Richie on 1 Feb 2011, 07:52 pm
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There is a thread on this topic that is ongoing here: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=84989.0 But I thought I better sticky this part of it so it doesn't get lost in all the other threads here in our circle.
I have always been at the top of the performance per dollar spent category, but now I am REALLY raising the bar. I am now offering some new loudspeaker kits of some multiple award winning designs at ridiculously low price points.
Note that I said "KITS" and not fully assembled speakers. The prices below do not include cabinets.
Here is the short story:
I designed a product line for AV123 known as the X series. It started out with a brilliant idea from Mark Schifter to offer a real over achieving mini-monitor and sub as a lost leader and use it as an advertising tool rather then spending a lot of money directly on advertising. The speakers had to be well engineered and mass produced to keep cost low, then sold at levels barely above cost.
The plan worked well as the X-LS and X-sub racked up awards and accolades.
Then we followed them up with a higher end version using a world class tweeter and took everything up a notch. Other models followed that filled out the line with many of them winning industry awards as well.
Fast forward to AV123 hitting some bumps in the road that lead to them recently closing the doors...
X series speakers were last being made in Colombia by Santiago and family, and they did a wonderful job with the whole line. But they obviously will no longer be manufacturing them. And that left them with thousands of X-series drivers, crossovers, and various parts. They couldn't afford to sit on this product that they have purchased and really needed to recovery some of their investment.
So Santiago and I have agreed to a deal that will allow all of the X-series inventory to be sent here to GR Research. I am now blowing them out as kits and at prices that will make them fly out the doors. The faster they sell the faster I can send funds to Santiago and his family, so prices are really low for fast sales.
I have already taken delivery of two forty foot container loads of product.
There will be more information made available here on AC and on the GR Research web site as soon as I can get it up. I have crunched the numbers, factored in shipping cost, brokerage, etc, and I think I can stick with these numbers. These prices included everything but the cabinets.
Original X-LS mini-monitor: $109 per pair.
These were reviewed by Audioholics, Affordable Audio, Home Theater and High Fidelity, GoodSound, Tone Audio, Consumer Guide, Prillaman.net, and several others. They received two Product of the Year awards, Best Buy award, Budget Speaker of the Year, and seems like there might have been one or two more that I can't remember. An upgrade for that model offered by the Skiing Ninja was also reviewed by Tone Audio.
Original X-CS: $79 each.
This was a matching MTM in a sealed box using a pair of the 16 ohm woofers in parallel. These were reviewed by Home Theater Talk, Audioholics, Consumer Guide, and Affordable Audio.
X-LS Encore: $169 a pair.
This was an upgraded version of the original X-LS. A few pics here: http://av123.wetpaint.com/page/X-LS+Encore
These were reviewed by Positive Feedback, and several others. A Skiing Ninja upgraded version also won the small speaker shoot out by Stereo Mojo: http://www.stereomojo.com/Small%20Speaker%20Shootout%202007/SmallSpeakerShootout2007Part1.htm
X-CS Encore: $119 each.
An upgraded version of the original X-CS, MTM center channel speaker.
This was also reviewed by Positive Feedback. There was also a review of the X-MTM, X-CS, and X-ls at Home Theater Sound, and they were given a Reviewers Choice award.
X-Omni: $199 a pair.
This is an omni directional design for left and right mains or rear surround applications. It was reviewed by Affordable Audio and given a Best of 2009 award.
X-Statik: $379 a pair.
This hugely popular model is an MTM in open baffle with an addition pair of woofers below.
Some pics here: http://av123.wetpaint.com/page/x-statik
This speaker was reviewed by Affordable Audio, AV Guide, Gear Patrol, Audioholics, and the Absolute Sound, winning their Top Value award and an Editors Choice award. Stereo Mojo also gave it a Best of Show at RMAF 2008.
X-Voce: $189 each.
This speaker is a center channel version of the X-Statik.
A few pics are here: http://av123.wetpaint.com/page/x-statik+Centre
It uses an open baffle MTM center section with an additional sealed box woofer on each end.
These were also reviewed by Gear Patrol and several others.
All of these kits use the original crossovers (made in China). If you want Sonicap upgrades or want to purchase all the parts to completely build out point to point wired networks than all of that is obviously going to be extra.
So tell all your friends or post the good news all over the place. You'll never find deals like this again.
You'll need to call to order these. GR Research 940-592-3400
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Danny do you have cabinet designs for the X-omni?
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Danny do you have cabinet designs for the X-omni?
Sure. E-mail me about them and I'll forward them over to you.
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thanks i was about to send you a email anyway.
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Hows the inventory on MFW-15 drivers? Do you have a rough number?
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Hows the inventory on MFW-15 drivers? Do you have a rough number?
Looks like some of the other forums found the MFW deals and really moved on them. While most of the X series kits and speaker sales have slowed now (maybe its the summer), MFW-15's have been moving pretty fast.
I think I have 4 of them left that are perfect.
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I read nearly the first six pages and didn't find it answered....
Danny, do these come with terminal cups, woofer gasket, and stuffing etc? It says everything but the cabinets but I'm not sure if those would be considered parts of the cabinets.....
Thanks,
Nicholas.
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It does not include stuffing, but does include EVERYTHING else. Stuffing cost more to ship than its worth.
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The original X-LS mini-monitor kit.
This has really got to be the deal of all deals when it comes to speaker kits. You can get this multiple award winning design with everything that you see here for only $109. That's crazy. There is nothing else on the market even close to this bag for the buck.
(http://www.gr-research.com/productimages/xlskitpic2.jpg)
Box plans are here: http://www.gr-research.com/pdf/x-ls%20classic%20box.pdf
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That is crazy.
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:D how bout a sale on Super V kits ???? ha :D
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Dream pricing. :drool: Do you ship it to India Danny?
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Does anybody offer ready made cabinets for these? Perts Express maybe?
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No Super-V sales right now. :(
These are priced low to move some numbers quickly so that Santiago and family can get reimbursed for them as soon as possible.
I can ship these to anywhere that there is a postal service pretty easily.
I think Ruben (Outofthewoods) cut some flat packs for these and priced them really low. So he might be a good source.
The PE 1/2 cubic foot straight cut and curved box works fine with these too.
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The original X-LS mini-monitor kit.
That's crazy.
That is crazy.
+3
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The original X-LS mini-monitor kit.
This has really got to be the deal of all deals when it comes to speaker kits. You can get this multiple award winning design with everything that you see here for only $109. That's crazy. There is nothing else on the market even close to this
I built a pair of these back in December and they really do sound great!
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I can ship these to anywhere that there is a postal service pretty easily.
That's great news. Sending you a PM.
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Bought this kit the other day. Looking forward to it as it's my first DIY speaker build.
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+3
+4
These are great mini-monitors! They are a wonderful way to hear music in a system. :thumb:
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Can five of them make a great HT or would it be an overkill especially as a centre speaker?
P.S. Just wondering, why has this kit not been listed on the GR Research website :scratch:
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I don't see a way to buy these on the web site.
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I don't see a way to buy these on the web site.
bottom of post#1
You'll need to call to order these. GR Research 940-592-3400
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Can five of them make a great HT or would it be an overkill especially as a centre speaker?
Yes.
P.S. Just wondering, why has this kit not been listed on the GR Research website
It will. The web site needs several updates, but time spent working on the website always looses out to time spent shipping out orders.
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Yes.
Hi Danny, is that 'Yes' is to say that it would be a great HT setup or is it to say that it would be an overkill for centre speaker. :scratch: :?
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Hi Danny, is that 'Yes' is to say that it would be a great HT setup or is it to say that it would be an overkill for centre speaker. :scratch: :?
Yes, it would make a great HT setup.
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Hi Danny,
Can you email me cabinet plans for both the x omni and x static?
I'd email you as per your request in another post but Im on probation as a new member.
Are there many kits left of the ls-x, encore, omni and static? (I want to buy a bunch but currenly only have debt. Trying to figure out how long I have )
Thanks very much.
best,
Perry
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Can you email me cabinet plans for both the x omni and x static?
No problem Perry.
I'd email you as per your request in another post but Im on probation as a new member.
No worries. It's only for a few posts so we can make sure you are a real person and not a spammer.
Are there many kits left of the ls-x, encore, omni and static? (I want to buy a bunch but currenly only have debt. Trying to figure out how long I have )
I have parts in stock for hundreds of each model.
Shot me an e-mail that I can respond to and I'll fire those plans right over to you. Send it to: info@gr-research.com
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Can you build an X-MTM Encore speaker out of the X-CS Encore kit or is a different crossover required for the X-MTM Encore?
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Can you build an X-MTM Encore speaker out of the X-CS Encore kit or is a different crossover required for the X-MTM Encore?
That is the same speaker just a larger ported enclosure.
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Working out with another friend for a joint buy. BTW, they are $109 a pair. So how to work out the cost for 5 speakers? :scratch:
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Working out with another friend for a joint buy. BTW, they are $109 a pair. So how to work out the cost for 5 speakers? :scratch:
A single unit is half the price.
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A centre speaker is best placed horizontally I'm told so this one would look asymmetrical. Is there anything else that you suggest along with two sets of X-LS mini monitors to restore symmetry ?
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The X-CS is the center channel version. It is a sealed box MTM desgin.
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Hi Danny,
What size room and positioning from walls is appropriate for the X-Statiks?
Thanks for making this deal available.
bearberry
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Hi Danny,
What size room and positioning from walls is appropriate for the X-Statiks?
Thanks for making this deal available.
bearberry
Room size is not much of an issue, but in any room (regardless of size), you have to pull them at least 3 feet out from the wall. And more is better. This is stardard for any open baffle speaker.
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X-LS Encore: $149 a pair.
This was an upgraded version of the original X-LS. A few pics here: http://av123.wetpaint.com/page/X-LS+Encore
These were reviewed by Positive Feedback, and several others. A Skiing Ninja upgraded version also won the small speaker shoot out by Stereo Mojo: http://www.stereomojo.com/Small%20Speaker%20Shootout%202007/SmallSpeakerShootout2007Part1.htm
What constituents are different in the upgraded version? Is this upgraded version same as that of Skiing Ninja upgraded version?
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What constituents are different in the upgraded version? Is this upgraded version same as that of Skiing Ninja upgraded version?
The upgraded version that won the shoot out was sent from Sean. It had a hand assembled crossover with Sonicaps, Mills resistors, and Erse XQ inductors. It was also lined with No Rez.
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The upgraded version that won the shoot out was sent from Sean. It had a hand assembled crossover with Sonicaps, Mills resistors, and Erse XQ inductors. It was also lined with No Rez.
I think my question was a little confusing and hence did not get the full answer.:duh: What I understand is that the version that won the shootout is not only the encore version but in addition, also had Sonicaps, Mills resistors and Erse XQ inductors and also lined with "No Rez"
I'll rephrase the part that was not answered. :)
What are the exact differences between the "original X-LS" and the "X-LS Encore" kits and also between "original X-CS & X-CS Encore" kits? :scratch:
Is the Encore available along with Sonicaps, Mills Resistors and Erse XQ inductors? If yes, how much would that cost? :roll:
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What are the exact differences between the "original X-LS" and the "X-LS Encore" kits and also between "original X-CS & X-CS Encore" kits?
The Encore series uses the Peerless tweeter. It is one of the best dome tweeters on the market. Also a lot more expensive than the tweeter in the standard (or classic) version.
Is the Encore available along with Sonicaps, Mills Resistors and Erse XQ inductors? If yes, how much would that cost?
You can replicate any of the crossovers with the top notch level parts and point to point wire it. Or you can pop off the standard poly caps and replace them with the Sonicaps using the stock crossover board. That will be the biggest bang for the buck. Prices for parts vary with model and depends on how much of it you want to upgrade.
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If we stick to the original box plan, what would be the specs? I mean the frequency response, the nominal impedance, power handling, sensitivity, crossover point etc?
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If we stick to the original box plan, what would be the specs? I mean the frequency response, the nominal impedance, power handling, sensitivity, crossover point etc?
Go to this Stereo Mojo shoot out page: http://www.stereomojo.com/Small%20Speaker%20Shootout%202007/StereomojoSmallSpeakerShootout2007Measurements.htm
On the second page you'll see ALL of the measurements on the X-LS Encore. They will answer all of your questions.
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Here is a pic of the X-LS Encore kit.
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/xlsecorekitpic.jpg)
This kit includes everything pictured and is only $149.
Note that the inductors are all air core. The resistors are good quality wire wound and non-inductive. The caps are all poly caps and there is even a Gen.2 Sonicap by-pass cap in the tweeter circuit.
Cabinet plans are here: http://gr-research.com/pdf/X-LS%20Encore%20box.pdf
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X-CS Encore: $99 each.
An upgraded version of the original X-CS, MTM center channel speaker.
This was also reviewed by Positive Feedback. There was also a review of the X-MTM, X-CS, and X-ls at Home Theater Sound, and they were given a Reviewers Choice award.
From where can we download the box plan of this speaker?
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From where can we download the box plan of this speaker?
http://www.gr-research.com/pdf/X-CS%20Encore.pdf
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Hey Guys,
I still have a couple of these flat packs left. As many of you may recall these are being sold to help out Gary Dodd who recently racked up some significant medical treatment debt.
Front and rear baffles are 1 1/8" MDF and the top, bottom and sides are 3/4" MDF. (Premium Super-Refined MDF)
Starting donation on each pair is $25.00. You can donate as much as you'd like on top of that though. :wink: (Regular price is $100.00 pr.)
100% of the proceeds will go to Gary. Just send your PayPal payment to Danny @ info@gr-research.com. For a FedEx Ground shipping quote, please send me your zip code via PM, or email. If you would prefer to look up shipping rates yourself, the package weight is 32lbs and the dimensions are 9" x 16" x 11. Shipping from 80233.
If you'd like to swap the Encore baffles for the Classics, just let me know.
The X-LS Encore kit is $149.00 and the X-LS Classic kit is $109.00. (KILLER deals, btw) You'll need to call Danny @ 940-592-3400 to order the kits.
This is a link to a small speaker shootout that included the X-LS Encore with XO build and No Rez upgrades. http://www.stereomojo.com/Small%20Speaker%20Shootout%202007/SmallSpeakerShootout2007Part1.htm Although these speakers are VERY good in stock form, it's nice knowing that you take them up a notch if you ever wanted to. :thumb:
Another added benefit to your donation is that in purchasing the speaker kits you are helping Santiago to recoup some of his investments as well.
Thanks,
Ruben
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/X-LSEncoreFlatPacks.jpg)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/GW378H452.jpg)
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I have had a few people asking about the X-MTM model. This version was produced by A/V-123 in limited numbers. It is basically the exact same kit as the X-CS Classic and X-CS Encore center channel kits but built into a larger ported floor standing model.
It will give you good sensitivity levels into the 91db range and good low end extension with a -3db in the low 40's in the box that they were sold in.
Here are a few pics of the Classic version:
(http://gr-research.com/mis/Xmtmpic1.jpg)
(http://gr-research.com/mis/Xmtmpic2.jpg)
(http://gr-research.com/mis/Xmtmpic3.jpg)
The X-MTM Encore was exactly the same but with the Encore tweeter.
Here are the box plans:
http://gr-research.com/pdf/X-mtm%20box.pdf
Here is where to add dampening material:
http://gr-research.com/pdf/X-mtm%20damping.pdf
Here are the X-CS and X-CS Enclore plans. You'll need to see these for the tweeter cut out dimensions.
http://gr-research.com/pdf/X-CS%20Classic.pdf
http://gr-research.com/pdf/X-CS%20Encore.pdf
X-MTM Classic kits are $199 and the X-MTM Encore kits are $279. That even includes floor spikes.
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Danny, what are the differences between the X-MTM and the AV3 ??
I realize that the AV3 is a TL and the X-MTM is rear ported but are there significant differences in performance?
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Danny, what are the differences between the X-MTM and the AV3 ??
I realize that the AV3 is a TL and the X-MTM is rear ported but are there significant differences in performance?
Well, all of the drivers are different too. The only real thing that they have in common is that they are an MTM design.
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A friend has a 5.1 system with 4 of the X-MTM Encores and an X-CS. They all have Ninja upgraded crossovers. It is a great sounding system with either multi-channel music or movies.
He owns the X-MTM Encores and X-CS in this picture. I picked them up from the photographer that AV123 was using for their website pics.
(http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb202/mlschifter/xseries-cherry-lsty-1-1024.jpg)
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Hi, I'm a part of an India-centric AV forum that goes by the name Hifivision. I've started a group buy for purchasing kits from Danny and with his active help have been able to mobilise demand for about 14 pairs of X-LS Encore kits, 5 pairs of X-CS and AV/AV1RS surround kits and also 6 Nos of 12B+SA-1 sub kits.
We find your offer of $25 for a pair of Encore speaker flat packs very interesting. Would it be possible to ship it along with the consignment of our speaker kits from Danny?
You can read about it here: http://www.hifivision.com/diy/19688-best-ever-deal-loudspeaker-kits.html
Regards
Rajesh
I still have a couple of these flat packs left. As many of you may recall these are being sold to help out Gary Dodd who recently racked up some significant medical treatment debt.
Front and rear baffles are 1 1/8" MDF and the top, bottom and sides are 3/4" MDF. (Premium Super-Refined MDF)
Starting donation on each pair is $25.00. You can donate as much as you'd like on top of that though. :wink: (Regular price is $100.00 pr.)
100% of the proceeds will go to Gary. Just send your PayPal payment to Danny @ info@gr-research.com. For a FedEx Ground shipping quote, please send me your zip code via PM, or email. If you would prefer to look up shipping rates yourself, the package weight is 32lbs and the dimensions are 9" x 16" x 11. Shipping from 80233.
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A friend has a 5.1 system with 4 of the X-MTM Encores and an X-CS. They all have Ninja upgraded crossovers. It is a great sounding system with either multi-channel music or movies.
He owns the X-MTM Encores and X-CS in this picture. I picked them up from the photographer that AV123 was using for their website pics.
(http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb202/mlschifter/xseries-cherry-lsty-1-1024.jpg)
Hi,
Very good looking setup. Which surrounds does he use?
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X-MTMs
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how much no-rez is needed for the x-ls encores?
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how much no-rez is needed for the x-ls encores?
One sheet will cover a pair.
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Hey Guys,
I still have a couple of these flat packs left. As many of you may recall these are being sold to help out Gary Dodd who recently racked up some significant medical treatment debt.
Front and rear baffles are 1 1/8" MDF and the top, bottom and sides are 3/4" MDF. (Premium Super-Refined MDF)
Starting donation on each pair is $25.00. You can donate as much as you'd like on top of that though. :wink: (Regular price is $100.00 pr.)
100% of the proceeds will go to Gary. Just send your PayPal payment to Danny @ info@gr-research.com. For a FedEx Ground shipping quote, please send me your zip code via PM, or email. If you would prefer to look up shipping rates yourself, the package weight is 32lbs and the dimensions are 9" x 16" x 11. Shipping from 80233.
If you'd like to swap the Encore baffles for the Classics, just let me know.
The X-LS Encore kit is $149.00 and the X-LS Classic kit is $109.00. (KILLER deals, btw) You'll need to call Danny @ 940-592-3400 to order the kits.
This is a link to a small speaker shootout that included the X-LS Encore with XO build and No Rez upgrades. http://www.stereomojo.com/Small%20Speaker%20Shootout%202007/SmallSpeakerShootout2007Part1.htm Although these speakers are VERY good in stock form, it's nice knowing that you take them up a notch if you ever wanted to. :thumb:
Another added benefit to your donation is that in purchasing the speaker kits you are helping Santiago to recoup some of his investments as well.
Thanks,
Ruben
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/X-LSEncoreFlatPacks.jpg)
All gone! :D
You guys are AWESOME!!! :notworthy:
As soon as I can get to them, I will be putting up another (5) pairs of X-LS Encore flat packs of which the proceeds will go to Bill Baker of Response Audio. They were hit HARD by flooding and suffered heavy losses/damages. You can read about it here - http://www.responseaudio.com/flood%202011.htm
Thanks everyone,
Ruben
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You are a good man Ruben.
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Is it feasible/practical to adjustment the dimensions of the mini-monitors, X-LS Encore included, to place the port in front when they will be used close to a wall?
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Is it feasible/practical to adjustment the dimensions of the mini-monitors, X-LS Encore included, to place the port in front when they will be used close to a wall?
The ported X-LS is in about half of its optimal ported air space. That is why a small ported floor standing version (the X-SLS) was made. So adding more air space and a port in the front is no problem.
And welcome to AC. :thumb:
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Thanks. There are so many designs I get lost easily. Can you direct me to the plans for the floor version?
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Thanks. There are so many designs I get lost easily. Can you direct me to the plans for the floor version?
http://gr-research.com/pdf/X-SLS%20Encore%20box.pdf
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Thanks, again. I went through so many threads over the weekend that I got dizzy. I'm sure I saw the link you show but just couldn't recall the location.
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So , if one wanted to make the x-ls encore with the port on the front , could one make the box just tall enough to fit the port or is there a calculation where the depth would change as well.
I'm thinking if the rear ported monitor is 13.5" tall could I make it 16" and locate the port under the woofer in the front ?
If the dimensions or "air space" change does the xover have to be tweaked?
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So , if one wanted to make the x-ls encore with the port on the front , could one make the box just tall enough to fit the port or is there a calculation where the depth would change as well.
I'm thinking if the rear ported monitor is 13.5" tall could I make it 16" and locate the port under the woofer in the front ?
If the dimensions or "air space" change does the xover have to be tweaked?
Yeah, you can make it as tall as you want leaving room for the port. You are just shifting the tuning frequency lower as the box gets bigger.
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Oh man, this just gets better and better, but do you have to adjust the length of the port at all when you vary the volume of the box?
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Oh man, this just gets better and better, but do you have to adjust the length of the port at all when you vary the volume of the box?
If you are trying to maintain the same tuning frequency then you do have to shorten the port. However, there is nothing wrong with tuning it lower, or allowing lower tuning.
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is there any advantage to maintaining the tuning frequency?
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is there any advantage to maintaining the tuning frequency?
The only advantage I can think of to keeping it tuned higher is if you had a bass hump below the tuning frequency (40Hz or so). That's not real likely though. You are more likely to have a bass peak at 50Hz or above.
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is there an easy way/ method/ equation for converting a design with one port to a design with 2 ports, and if so, what might the dimensions on the two ports be pls?
And before people ask, I am thinking of a box of this size as a centre channel with symetric twin front ports :)
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is there an easy way/ method/ equation for converting a design with one port to a design with 2 ports, and if so, what might the dimensions on the two ports be pls?
And before people ask, I am thinking of a box of this size as a centre channel with symetric twin front ports :)
I can calculate the ports for you based on box volume. You can even use a slot port. Another thing to keep in mind is that you want a minimum the amount of surface area around the tweeter. So don't go increasing the front baffle size around it.
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As Cartman might say "Schweeeeeeeet" :D
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Hey danny i called you guys to order the X-LS encores but no answer. Will you guys be in tomorrow(sat)?
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Hey danny i called you guys to order the X-LS encores but no answer. Will you guys be in tomorrow(sat)?
I was in almost all day. :? Leave a message next time and I will call you right back. I'll be here in the morning also. 940-592-3400
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I am thinking about building a pair of X-Statik's. How would the X-CS Encore work as a center channel I just don't think I can fit the X-Voce and give it the opening it needs. I was also looking a the X-LS Encore for surrounds. I was able to get 4 of the MFW-15 Drivers which I was thinking about 2 dual opposed sealed, in about 2.5 cu/ft per driver? Any feedback?
Mike
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Cabinet plans are here: http://gr-research.com/pdf/X-LS%20Encore%20box.pdf
Do these cabinet plans change if one does not use 'No Rez'?
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Do these cabinet plans change if one does not use 'No Rez'?
Not Danny, but no, they do not.
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http://gr-research.com/pdf/X-SLS%20Encore%20box.pdf
Danny, do you have a box stuffing drawing for the X-SLS you could link to?
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Do these cabinet plans change if one does not use 'No Rez'?
USE the No Rez, trust me, it's amazing stuff.
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Danny, do you have a box stuffing drawing for the X-SLS you could link to?
No.
Just be sure to cover all of the walls (no bare spots) and leave a clear path to the port. I tend to put a little heavier layer on the back wall right behind the woofer.
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No.
Just be sure to cover all of the walls (no bare spots) and leave a clear path to the port. I tend to put a little heavier layer on the back wall right behind the woofer.
If using No-Rez is there still a need for fiber batting?
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If using No-Rez is there still a need for fiber batting?
I still use a little right behind the woofer.
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All gone! :D
You guys are AWESOME!!! :notworthy:
As soon as I can get to them, I will be putting up another (5) pairs of X-LS Encore flat packs of which the proceeds will go to Bill Baker of Response Audio. They were hit HARD by flooding and suffered heavy losses/damages. You can read about it here - http://www.responseaudio.com/flood%202011.htm
Thanks everyone,
Ruben
This new run will be cut next week and can start shipping the following week. :D
They will be shipped via FedEx. Please use their shipping rate calculator to figure your shipping costs.
Package weight per pair is 32lbs and the box dimensions are 9" x 16" x 11. Shipping from 80233.
Flat pack donations are to be sent directly to Bill Baker's PayPal account - Response34@aol.com.
Shipping is to be sent to fallenenclosures@yahoo.com
Thanks again!
:wave:
Ruben
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hi
danny
i had contacted you a year back
i am looking for a deal on
dual sw12B and a sa1 plate amp
please give me a quote
are they in stock
can they be shipped with the group buy being organised for india
ill get myself included in the Gb subsequent to availability of the things
regards anurag
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hi
danny
i had contacted you a year back
i am looking for a deal on
dual sw12B and a sa1 plate amp
please give me a quote
are they in stock
can they be shipped with the group buy being organised for india
ill get myself included in the Gb subsequent to availability of the things
regards anurag
I offered a sweet deal on a limited number of SW-12B's and SA-1 amps for the guys in India on the group buy. I'll add one more to the deal if you want it but you'll be the last one. $199 for the amp and woofer.
They are in stock and can be added to it.
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From where can we download the box plan of this speaker?
Hello Danny,
These are nice kits for very good price.
I have picked same drivers 4 nos from ebay. can i request Box and crossover drawings for them.
Also I may need your email Id for some correspondence, If you are fine with it.
Thank You
Vikram
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Danny,
Thanks again for the cabinet plans looking them over now. Are all the X-series speakers 8-Ohm? Wondering because my nephew has a lower end receiver and at these prices he'll definitely be interested.
Thanks,
Mark
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Danny,
Thanks again for the cabinet plans looking them over now. Are all the X-series speakers 8-Ohm? Wondering because my nephew has a lower end receiver and at these prices he'll definitely be interested.
Thanks,
Mark
I designed all of them to be an easy load to drive and they are all in the 8 ohm range.
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I designed all of them to be an easy load to drive and they are all in the 8 ohm range.
Cool, Thanks!
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Ok we have pics of X-LS Original/Encore. Could we also have the pics of X-CS Original/Encore kits?
The original X-LS mini-monitor kit
(http://www.gr-research.com/productimages/xlskitpic2.jpg)
Here is a pic of the X-LS Encore kit
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/xlsecorekitpic.jpg)
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X-CS kit:
(http://gr-research.com/mis/xcskitpic.jpg)
X-CS Encore kit:
(http://gr-research.com/mis/xcsencorekitpic2.jpg)
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To all who have fully assembled these:
How big is the crossover? Where did you mount the crossover in the bookshelf/center channel enclosures?
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The crossovers are pictured above. They easily mount in the bottom of the cabinet.
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To all who have fully assembled these:
How big is the crossover? Where did you mount the crossover in the bookshelf/center channel enclosures?
I put mine on the side wall, because that's where I found it on the AV123 cabinet. I found it easier to mount this way, because I don't have any short screwdrivers.
Either way, there is plenty of room in the cabinet for the Encore X-over. I highly recommend the Encore version. My ears really like the Encore tweeter. For me, the highs were much more 'forward' and clear over the x-cs version.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--KWAG-4s3m8/Tvk-75qreCI/AAAAAAAAF4M/pRK2yW8gfxA/s640/IMG_0045.JPG)
Same picture, but stuffed with polyfill.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--UyHg8RKcI0/Tvk-_fkvZMI/AAAAAAAAF4w/DKE-mway9h4/s640/IMG_0054.JPG)
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Thanks to you both for letting me know.
So is the crossover small enough to fit through the 5 3/4" hole for the woofer?
I am basically going to have either a local shop or somebody else who is more up to the task to build and finish the cabinets, since I am pretty sure the WAF would be terrible if done by me. And I am definitely going with the Encore, since the cost difference is small.
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Oh yeah, it will fit right through the woofer hole.
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Danny. I linked to this post and to some of the images from this thread on Tech Talk, hope that is OK with you.
More questions!
1) What is the difference between the X-Omni and the other 2-way kits? Does it have a higher crossover point, or the peerless tweeter? Trying to figure out what the added value is in the Omni kit that it costs more money. Wouldn't mind an image, if you have one available.
2) Can the X-LS work decently in a sealed alignment should you want to go that route? I realize this will effect the efficiency / extension of the low-end.
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I am thinking about buying the 1-X Voce and A pair of X-Statik's Are their any pre made cabinets for the kits in satin black with the grills. If so the cost for the cabinets?
Thanks, Newbe Clyde69
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I guess since the X-CS center channel is sealed that this woofer does OK in a sealed alignment. So that should answer my question #2. Could take roughly 50% of that volume as a baseline for net enclosure volume.
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1) What is the difference between the X-Omni and the other 2-way kits? Does it have a higher crossover point, or the peerless tweeter? Trying to figure out what the added value is in the Omni kit that it costs more money. Wouldn't mind an image, if you have one available.
The X-Omni uses the Encore tweeter. http://gr-research.com/gr-t3tweeter-1.aspx
It also comes with floor spikes.
2) Can the X-LS work decently in a sealed alignment should you want to go that route? I realize this will effect the efficiency / extension of the low-end.
Sure, .5cubic feet sealed is ideal.
I guess since the X-CS center channel is sealed that this woofer does OK in a sealed alignment. So that should answer my question #2. Could take roughly 50% of that volume as a baseline for net enclosure volume.
Yep, they work great in a sealed box as well. There are a few cabinet plan links (.pdf files) posted in this thread. Or shoot me an e-mail and I'll send you some.
And welcome to AC. :thumb:
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I guess since the X-CS center channel is sealed that this woofer does OK in a sealed alignment. So that should answer my question #2. Could take roughly 50% of that volume as a baseline for net enclosure volume.
I have some fully assembled X-Voce's listed here: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=89801.0
There are no other enclosures, but there are several guys around here that can make a pair for you.
Welcome to AC to you as well. :thumb:
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Couple questions:
1) Can you take a bank-funded payment from Paypal ? Fees should be less than if someone pays you normally with a credit card.
2) Are you starting to run out of any of these yet?
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Couple questions:
1) Can you take a bank-funded payment from Paypal ? Fees should be less than if someone pays you normally with a credit card.
2) Are you starting to run out of any of these yet?
Paypal is not problem. Shoot me an e-mail with your order and shipping info and I'll get you a total with shipping.
I have a LOT of these in stock.
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Can the X-LS work decently in a sealed alignment should you want to go that route? I realize this will effect the efficiency / extension of the low-end.
Sure, .5cubic feet sealed is ideal.
Glad to know that sealed cabinets are possible. Wish these drivers could be used for making boxes similar to A/V-1RS surrounds: http://gr-research.com/av-1rs.aspx for similar application which would've helped us save some top dollars.
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Can the X-LS work decently in a sealed alignment should you want to go that route? I realize this will effect the efficiency / extension of the low-end.
Sure, .5cubic feet sealed is ideal.
Hi Danny, could you post the box plan for sealed cabinets?
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Hi Danny, could you post the box plan for sealed cabinets?
Same plans as the ported box just with no port.
We really fudged this model to work on a less than optimal (smaller) ported box just to keep it a mini-monitor. Optimal ported is the small floor standing X-SLS version.
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if one wanted to make the x-ls encore with the port on the front, could one make the box just tall enough to fit the port or is there a calculation where the depth would change as well.
Yeah, you can make it as tall as you want leaving room for the port. You are just shifting the tuning frequency lower as the box gets bigger.
What if we shift the port to the side? I'm asking because I need to place the speaker as close to the wall as possible.
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What if we shift the port to the side? I'm asking because I need to place the speaker as close to the wall as possible.
No problem.
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@ Danny, Thank you for sharing your resources and thank you for making yourself available to the DIY community. I have a few questions.
I have two kits of the x ls encore. I wanted to use them as surrounds. I would like to know if I can make them sealed for near wall use and not have to mod the corssover.
If I choose to build them ported will they be fine used near wall?
Last but not least I would like to know if there are any flat packs available. If so how much would 2 pairs including s/h cost to 19320.
Thanks once again.
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You can build them sealed, and use the same air space.
If you port them and get them up too close to the wall then you will get some heavier coupling and possibly a peak in the 50 to 55Hz range.
At one time Ruben (Outofthewoods) had cut some flat packs for these. I have no idea if he has any more available.
And welcome to AC.
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Thanks for getting back to me Danny. When you mentioned that I "may get a peak in the 50 -55Hz range", how does that affect the sound. I guess you can tell from that question that I am an uber newbie. I was thinking that I may use these elsewhere instead of surrounds in the future. If I were to move them elsewhere I didn't want to adversely affect the sound by building them sealed.
Will sealing them affect the sound?
In case your wondering since we never spoke before and I have two x ls encore kits. My fiancee purchased one for me as a Vday gift and I received another from a friend in lieu of payment for some computer work that I did for her. Nevertheless I look forward to building them!!!!!
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Thanks for getting back to me Danny. When you mentioned that I "may get a peak in the 50 -55Hz range", how does that affect the sound. I guess you can tell from that question that I am an uber newbie. I was thinking that I may use these elsewhere instead of surrounds in the future. If I were to move them elsewhere I didn't want to adversely affect the sound by building them sealed.
Will sealing them affect the sound?
In case your wondering since we never spoke before and I have two x ls encore kits. My fiancee purchased one for me as a Vday gift and I received another from a friend in lieu of payment for some computer work that I did for her. Nevertheless I look forward to building them!!!!!
The peak in the 50 to 55Hz range will make them sound a little bass heavy.
Sealing them rolls off the bottom sooner so that you have less low bass output.
You have a really good fiancee there. :thumb:
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She said that you said "she gets points for that!!!" :green: :lol:
Thanks for the clarification. Another question. Since a port would make them a lil bass heavy, would a slot even them out, sort of like a mix between sealed and ported?
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She said that you said "she gets points for that!!!" :green: :lol:
Thanks for the clarification. Another question. Since a port would make them a lil bass heavy, would a slot even them out, sort of like a mix between sealed and ported?
A slotted port is the same thing as any other port. It just has a different shape. The end result is the same.
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LOL told you I was a newbie!!! Thanks enjoy your weekend!!
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Hope you had a great weekend. I have a couple of questions. I would like to know if the woofer opening can be counter sunk and have the woofer sit flush like the tweeter. Not sure if it will impact the design and or the intended sound etc. I just think it would look cleaner.
I would also like to know what is the size of the terminal cup that is included with the kit? I want to assume it is the small one but not wanting to assume.
last but not least I think I read that the sides need to be different dimension than what is included on the link for the schematics. If so what is the correct height for the sides?
Thanks once again.
Touré
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Hope you had a great weekend. I have a couple of questions. I would like to know if the woofer opening can be counter sunk and have the woofer sit flush like the tweeter. Not sure if it will impact the design and or the intended sound etc. I just think it would look cleaner.
No, the woofers are surface mount, and the woofer has a tapered frame that makes them look very clean.
Plus the woofer frame overlaps onto the tweeter (sets slightly over it) to help get the acoustic centers closer.
I would also like to know what is the size of the terminal cup that is included with the kit? I want to assume it is the small one but not wanting to assume.
The smaller one.
last but not least I think I read that the sides need to be different dimension than what is included on the link for the schematics. If so what is the correct height for the sides?
Plans provided in the link are correct.
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Thanks once again. You are the best!!!
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Morning Danny,
I would greatly appreciate it if you could reach out to Ruben for me. I posted in a couple of the threads and sent him a PM...... I am interested in purchasing two flat packs for the x-ls encore.
TIA,
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Danny,
I am interested in purchasing a pair of the X-LS Encore kits @ $149 a pair. Can you PM a total with shipping to 19707 and your PayPal address. Many thanks.
NB
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what's the difference between x-cs encore and x-ls encore? moreover, how would the sound of these speakers compare to the N3? I built a pair of N3 for myself and my father in law always gushes about how nice they sound. I want to build him a pair of speakers, but a pair of N3 and a center channel N3S would be more than what I'm willing to spend on a gift (esp since the prices of N3 have gone up).
My FiL only has room for bookshelf speakers so I was looking at the X-CS/X-LS Encores. Never heard these, so wondering how they compare to the N3
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what's the difference between x-cs encore and x-ls encore? moreover, how would the sound of these speakers compare to the N3? I built a pair of N3 for myself and my father in law always gushes about how nice they sound. I want to build him a pair of speakers, but a pair of N3 and a center channel N3S would be more than what I'm willing to spend on a gift (esp since the prices of N3 have gone up).
My FiL only has room for bookshelf speakers so I was looking at the X-CS/X-LS Encores. Never heard these, so wondering how they compare to the N3
First, the X-CS Encore is the center channel MTM design. Basically the same as the N3S. X-LS Encore is about the same as the N1 kit, maybe the N1x?
I currently have the X-Omnis and the N2X in my house right now, so I can give you my impressions.
The only real difference is the tweeter and it is not a huge one. The Peerless tweeter has a bit softer sound but is almost as good as the BG tweeter. For the price, I would definitely do these as a gift. He should have drawings for either a tower or bookshelf design for these.
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what's the difference between x-cs encore and x-ls encore? moreover, how would the sound of these speakers compare to the N3? I built a pair of N3 for myself and my father in law always gushes about how nice they sound. I want to build him a pair of speakers, but a pair of N3 and a center channel N3S would be more than what I'm willing to spend on a gift (esp since the prices of N3 have gone up).
My FiL only has room for bookshelf speakers so I was looking at the X-CS/X-LS Encores. Never heard these, so wondering how they compare to the N3
If you line the cabinets with No Rez and upgrade the crossover parts in the X-LS or X-CS then they get pretty close to the N Series kits and just give up some resolution and detail levels to the BG tweeter used in the N Series designs.
Without upgrading the crossovers parts they are going to be a level or so behind.
Big bang for the buck though, and would make a great gift.
And the Peerless tweeter is a great dome tweeter.
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thanks Danny and pureiso. i really should have read the whole thread before posting my question. So I gather that the X-CS Encore is a sealed design and the X-LS is a ported design. Now I have two options
1. a pair of X-LS Encore as L/R and one X-CS Encore as center
2. X-CS Encore for all the front three speakers
What are the pros and cons of each setup? I am guessing the ported X-LS Encores will have more of a lower end than the sealed X-CS? Also Danny mentioned somewhere in this thread that the cabinet design of the X-LS is using a less than optimal port length to keep it a mini-monitor. How would the cabinet design change if I were to use an optimal port size for these speakers. How would this change the X-LS's performance?
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Danny, how much would it be to upgrade the caps to Sonicaps in EACH of the X-LS Encore or X-CS Encore. Trying to see how much Sonicaps upgrade would cost for either of the options I mentioned in the previous post
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thanks Danny and pureiso. i really should have read the whole thread before posting my question. So I gather that the X-CS Encore is a sealed design and the X-LS is a ported design. Now I have two options
1. a pair of X-LS Encore as L/R and one X-CS Encore as center
2. X-CS Encore for all the front three speakers
What are the pros and cons of each setup? I am guessing the ported X-LS Encores will have more of a lower end than the sealed X-CS? Also Danny mentioned somewhere in this thread that the cabinet design of the X-LS is using a less than optimal port length to keep it a mini-monitor. How would the cabinet design change if I were to use an optimal port size for these speakers. How would this change the X-LS's performance?
Honestly, you could go with three X-LS Encores in the front if you are not worried about efficiency.
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I currently use X-LS in my living room system which is just 2-channel. They are terrific speakers. I've also lived with a pair of X-CS' and while they are larger and heavier (and still require stands), they also have better power handling. Despite being sealed the X-CS produce surprising bass. It's a tough choice. I love them both!
Oh, and I upgraded them with No Rez and Sonicaps which revealed the true character of these designs. The stock caps did an ok job but robbed these speakers of their true clarity. You just won't hear how good they are with the stock caps. These kits may seem inexpensive but they make for serious competition to what you would find in a store. Add a servo sub and you will have an unbeatable combo for the money.
Almost forgot, if you want to hear the X-CS' in action I have a video on you tube showing them off. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yi-lmFVA2l4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yi-lmFVA2l4)
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x-ls encores kits still available?
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x-ls encores kits still available?
Hundreds of them.
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I just finished building a pair of the X-LS Encores with the Sonicap and No-Rez upgrades using Parts Express 0.50 cu-ft piano black cabinets. The sound quality of these speakers with the performance upgrades
is amazingly good. The sound quality is as good or better than a lot of commercial built speakers costing three times as much or more. They not only sound great but look great too in the piano black cabinets. At the price Danny is selling these parts kits for they are a fantastic bargin.
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I just finished building a pair of the X-LS Encores with the Sonicap and No-Rez upgrades using Parts Express 0.50 cu-ft piano black cabinets. The sound quality of these speakers with the performance upgrades
is amazingly good. The sound quality is as good or better than a lot of commercial built speakers costing three times as much or more. They not only sound great but look great too in the piano black cabinets. At the price Danny is selling these parts kits for they are a fantastic bargin.
I just wish I had the cash to take those Encores off your hands. ;)
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I wish that other people knew like you do just how good these speakers sound and at the price I am asking are a bargain. So far I haven't even received a single inquiry which is very frustrating.
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One thing I would personally stress is that these are upgraded X- LS Encores, and maybe put in the link to the shootout that Danny has earlier in this thread.
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Please note that the speakers I built differ from the stock X-LS Encore's in that they have Sonicap capacitors in the crossovers and No-Rez sound damping upgrades which takes the performance to a whole new level that showcases the speakers capabilities. Back in 2007 StereoMoJo sponsored a small speaker shootout with the upgraded X-LS Encore competing against 11 other small speakers from other companies. The X-LS Encores took first place in this competion. See the following link: http://www.stereomojo.com/Small%20Speaker%20Shootout%202007/SmallSpeakerShootout2007Part1.htm
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Looks good, once again I wish I had the cash...
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I am completing three of the X-CS Encore MTM kits. Is there an illustration/diagram showing how the crossovers are wired to the drivers and binding posts?
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I am completing three of the X-CS Encore MTM kits. Is there an illustration/diagram showing how the crossovers are wired to the drivers and binding posts?
The crossover is labeled + tweeter and - tweeter. So just connect the + and - to the + and - on the driver terminals. The same goes for the woofers.
Here is a post about soldering to the drivers that might be helpful too: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=102191.msg1084720#msg1084720
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:duh: aw man. i should have checked the dimensions myself first, but Danny, when I spoke to you on the phone, you mentioned that the x-cs encores are something like 17" tall. I just got the kits today and saw that they are 20" tall. Well I have 19.5" of space between the counter where these speakers will be sitting and the cabinet above. Is there any way these speakers can be shortened a bit w/o affecting sound quality? can they be made wider and/or deeper to make up for the internal volume?
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Best I can remember the width is the important thing (to a point) because of the baffle. I wouldn't think you'd have a bit of trouble making them a little less tall and making the cabinet deeper to add back the lost volume. But I'm sure you'll get a proper answer from Danny soon.
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First of all, thanks for the amazing deals.
I had a few questions about the original X-LS pairs (not encore):
Do you still have them in stock?
Would these handle a harman kardon hk3490 stereo amp, with the following specs:
Power @ 8 Ohms, <0.07% THD120 x 2
Power @ 4 Ohms, <0.2% THD150 x 2
Thanks!
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:duh: aw man. i should have checked the dimensions myself first, but Danny, when I spoke to you on the phone, you mentioned that the x-cs encores are something like 17" tall. I just got the kits today and saw that they are 20" tall. Well I have 19.5" of space between the counter where these speakers will be sitting and the cabinet above. Is there any way these speakers can be shortened a bit w/o affecting sound quality? can they be made wider and/or deeper to make up for the internal volume?
Yes, you can shorten them by a 1/4" on each end. No Problem. And you can add a little depth to compensate.
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First of all, thanks for the amazing deals.
I had a few questions about the original X-LS pairs (not encore):
Do you still have them in stock?
Would these handle a harman kardon hk3490 stereo amp, with the following specs:
Power @ 8 Ohms, <0.07% THD120 x 2
Power @ 4 Ohms, <0.2% THD150 x 2
Thanks!
Hundreds of them in stock, and that amp will be fine with them.
Welcome to AC.
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When attaching the drivers into the MDF baffle for the X-CS, are hurricane nuts or T nuts needed, such as these?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=081-1082
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When attaching the drivers into the MDF baffle for the X-CS, are hurricane nuts or T nuts needed, such as these?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=081-1082
Welcome to AC.
No, those aren't necessary at all. The kit comes with screws for attaching the drivers.
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Hi Danny,
Would it be a step-up to replace the Peerless (excellent) tweeter with the B&G Neo3 PDR or would the XO's limit the conversion/would the B&Gs fit?
I've done everything else, just wondering if I've come to the end of the road with x-ls mods?
Thanks, pc
Ps. Impressive upgrade with the No-Rez, Sonic Caps & Peerless tweeter.. Thank You SIR!!!
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Hi Danny,
Would it be a step-up to replace the Peerless (excellent) tweeter with the B&G Neo3 PDR or would the XO's limit the conversion/would the B&Gs fit?
I've done everything else, just wondering if I've come to the end of the road with x-ls mods?
Thanks, pc
Ps. Impressive upgrade with the No-Rez, Sonic Caps & Peerless tweeter.. Thank You SIR!!!
The BG tweeter won't fit and the crossover would have to be completely different.
If you have already done all of those mods to your X-LS then you have already taken them a long way and for not too much money. And I bet you had fun with them too.
To keep moving upward might mean time for a new speaker. X-Pro's are coming...
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To keep moving upward might mean time for a new speaker. X-Pro's are coming...
Is that a continuation of the old AV123 design from yore or just the same name? They sure looked stupid cool before ...
Scott
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Is that a continuation of the old AV123 design from yore or just the same name? They sure looked stupid cool before ...
Scott
I am just fulfilling the promise of a model that never would otherwise have been built. It is of my design though and not as per any early artist conception. All of my work is designed around the engineering parameters and performance objectives first and foremost.
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I am just fulfilling the promise of a model that never would otherwise have been built. It is of my design though and not as per any early artist conception. All of my work is designed around the engineering parameters and performance objectives first and foremost.
Awesome! Color me enthused ...
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I would imagine that the only thing Danny's X-Pro will have in common with the AV123 concept--other than name--will be that it incorporates a waveguide-loaded tweeter.
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I would imagine that the only thing Danny's X-Pro will have in common with the AV123 concept--other than name--will be that it incorporates a waveguide-loaded tweeter.
Good point. I did love all the old renditions we saw :thumb:
Scott
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Is there any info about the X-SLS Encore? Found the box plans, but not comments about SQ (esp vs the X-LS Encore) and sensitivity. Can it be made as a sealed design?
Thanks in advance!
Ben
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Is there any info about the X-SLS Encore? Found the box plans, but not comments about SQ (esp vs the X-LS Encore) and sensitivity. Can it be made as a sealed design?
Thanks in advance!
Ben
Ben,
The X-LS and X-SLS are the same speaker. The difference is only that the X-SLS uses a small floor standing design (optimal air space) that allow it to play much lower. It is still the same award winning design that won speaker shoot offs etc. It just has an extended bottom end.
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are the X-CS encores really 18.5" deep? just making sure I didn't get the wrong cabinet plans
external dimensions of the plans I got are 8.5" W x 20" H x 18.5" D
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are the X-CS encores really 18.5" deep? just making sure I didn't get the wrong cabinet plans
external dimensions of the plans I got are 8.5" W x 20" H x 18.5" D
Total depth is only 15.5".
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sorry, meant 15.5. Ok so I got the right plans. just checking. Thanks
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Is there a difference between the cabinet plans for the xls-classic and the xls-encore? TIA
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Is there a difference between the cabinet plans for the xls-classic and the xls-encore? TIA
Only the cut out for the tweeter is different.
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Thank you!
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I guess the X-MTM Encore was never part of this group of speaker kits.
Did it sell so well there were none left over, or did something else
cause these not to be available with these other kits?
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X—cs encore is the x mtm
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X—cs encore is the x mtm
OK but I thought the x-cs is a center speaker.
The x mtm is a floor standing speaker, as verified
by pictures of it at av123.com. They didn't have
a picture of the x-cs so I'm assuming here.
I thought the crossover would be different because
of the change in the baffle, but maybe I've got
it all wrong.
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The X-CS and the floor standing X-MTM use the same identical drivers and crossovers. The bass response of the X-CS is rated at -3 db @ 65 hz in its sealed cabinet design. The X-MTM has a bass response in the low 40 hz range as a result of its larger, rear vented cabinet.
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Thanks Ron,
I did find the page (skipped it somehow going through the other 8 pages of this
thread) on the MTM floor speaker.
Was trying to understand the difference in the price.
X-MTM Classic kits are $179 and the X-MTM Encore kits are $219.
but the X-CS Encore are $99 each (so $198 for a pair)
If they are the same kits, I guess the extra cost is for the ports? and spikes?
If you already have ports and spikes I guess double X-CS kits would get
you there for a pair of floor standing MTM.
Also guessing the big thing the MTM vs. the X-LS is output levels.
I would think Danny controls it in the Xover, but I see lots of comments in
general about MTM having a ragged spot in the midrange because of
the topology. So I don't know if the MTM is just as accurate as the
X-LS, just louder. Refering to the Encore versions.
Considering these for the 5th wheel trailer. Before you laugh too
much, this thing has 3 pop outs and is close in size to a small
apartment.
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Thanks Ron,
I did find the page (skipped it somehow going through the other 8 pages of this
thread) on the MTM floor speaker.
Was trying to understand the difference in the price.
X-MTM Classic kits are $179 and the X-MTM Encore kits are $219.
but the X-CS Encore are $99 each (so $198 for a pair)
If they are the same kits, I guess the extra cost is for the ports? and spikes?
If you already have ports and spikes I guess double X-CS kits would get
you there for a pair of floor standing MTM.
Also guessing the big thing the MTM vs. the X-LS is output levels.
I would think Danny controls it in the Xover, but I see lots of comments in
general about MTM having a ragged spot in the midrange because of
the topology. So I don't know if the MTM is just as accurate as the
X-LS, just louder. Refering to the Encore versions.
Considering these for the 5th wheel trailer. Before you laugh too
much, this thing has 3 pop outs and is close in size to a small
apartment.
The difference in price is for floor spikes, ports, and more wire.
And the response of the X-MTM and X-CS is smoother than the response of the X-LS (by a small amount). It is actually +/-1db all the way to 4kHz. :thumb:
And yes the sensitivity is higher and they play louder.
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Hey Danny,
I've been considering building a set of AV3's but after reding this thread I'mm thinking of the X MTM Encore kit with the sonicap upgrades.
I realize most of the components are different but what about sound Kind of confused about what way to go ... Ueage will be aboiut 70/30 music / movies and I do have a sub.
Any thoughts regarding the X MTM Encore vs the AV3's ?
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New-B here, I just ordered the X-LS Encores from Danny. It will be my first attempt at a decent speaker build. I have some wood working experience, but I am sure I will be looking for advise during my cabinet builds. I hope you guys can tolerate yet another first timer with dumb questions... :scratch:
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New-B here, I just ordered the X-LS Encores from Danny. It will be my first attempt at a decent speaker build. I have some wood working experience, but I am sure I will be looking for advise during my cabinet builds. I hope you guys can tolerate yet another first timer with dumb questions... :scratch:
No problem and welcome to AC.
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Hey Danny,
I've been considering building a set of AV3's but after reding this thread I'mm thinking of the X MTM Encore kit with the sonicap upgrades.
I realize most of the components are different but what about sound Kind of confused about what way to go ... Ueage will be aboiut 70/30 music / movies and I do have a sub.
Any thoughts regarding the X MTM Encore vs the AV3's ?
The A/V-3's use the smaller M-130/16's in a transmission line. So the woofers are a little lighter weight and are better controlled in the lower mid-range and bass region. So The A/V-3 will have a better lower vocal region and tighter bass response. So a slight advantage to the A/V-3 in that regard. They are also not as wide or as large overall as the X-MTM. So WAF goes to the A/V-3.
The X-MTM Encore uses the top level tweeter from Peerless. The GR-T3 tweeter used in the A/V-3 is really good, but the edge here goes to the X-MTM Encore. So a slight advantage to the X in the clarity of the highs. Note though that this is with both using Sonicaps. If either of the two being compared uses the standard crossover caps then the edge then shifts to the tweeter with the Sonicaps.
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New-B here, I just ordered the X-LS Encores from Danny. It will be my first attempt at a decent speaker build. I have some wood working experience, but I am sure I will be looking for advise during my cabinet builds. I hope you guys can tolerate yet another first timer with dumb questions... :scratch:
Welcome, here's a post to my first build which was X-LS Encore (http://goo.gl/pzL7j). It was a lot of fun. Look thru and learn from my mistakes. Everyone here is very helpful. Have fun.
Edited: fixed link
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Welcome, here's a post to my first build which was X-LS Encore (http://goo.gl/pzL7j). It was a lot of fun. Look thru and learn from my mistakes. Everyone here is very helpful. Have fun.
Edited: fixed link
Grimace,
Thanks for the welcome! and sharing your experience. I am glad you documented the beginning of your build, but I would love to see more. Did you finish them? Also, I see you built them without a port. I thought this design was tuned for the port?
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No problem and welcome to AC.
Danny, thanks for welcome, and I'm glad we got the CC thing sorted out. I look forward to my build.
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Danny,
Thank you for the encore xl-s kit and sheet of no-rez. Everything arrived well packed in bubble wrap, newspaper and sturdy boxes.
My speaker build starts in earnest this weekend with an assist from Parts Express speaker enclosure kit. I'm getting the soldering iron out and posted a note on my Facebook page, which I hope leads to some new customer.
Your presence and advice is very welcome by your friends and fellow AC posters.
Cheers,
NB
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NB
I recently built a pair of X-LS Encores using the Parts Express cabinets. I posted pictures which may be helpful to you. Look at the following link: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=105301.0
If you have any questions, I will be glad to answer them for you. Suggest that you lightly fill the back half of the cabinet with Dacron Poly Fil or Acousti-Stuff. Also suggest replacing the stock Poly capacitors with Sonicap capacitors.
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Morning, Unfortunately I do not have the speakers in front of me, nor will I have access to them in the near future. But I am coming near the end of my project and I realize that there were not any quick connects included to attach to the speaker terminals. When you have a moment can you let me know what size quick connects to use for the x-ls encore kit. TIA
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Morning, Unfortunately I do not have the speakers in front of me, nor will I have access to them in the near future. But I am coming near the end of my project and I realize that there were not any quick connects included to attach to the speaker terminals. When you have a moment can you let me know what size quick connects to use for the x-ls encore kit. TIA
Oh no. There are no quick connects for a reason. I do not recommend them at all. There is no reason to degrade the signal with them. That wire is a top level audiophile quality wire that is used in all of our speakers and in some very top level speaker cables. That performance advantage would be somewhat nullified by inserting a piece of Tin in the path.
Solder is provided in the kit. It is used to solder the wires to the crossover board and to the input terminals and drivers. Heat shrink is also provided in the kit to seal those soldered connections on the input terminals and drivers.
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Oh no. There are no quick connects for a reason. I do not recommend them at all. There is no reason to degrade the signal with them. That wire is a top level audiophile quality wire that is used in all of our speakers and in some very top level speaker cables. That performance advantage would be somewhat nullified by inserting a piece of Tin in the path.
Solder is provided in the kit. It is used to solder the wires to the crossover board and to the input terminals and drivers. Heat shrink is also provided in the kit to seal those soldered connections on the input terminals and drivers.
Ah I see, thanks for getting back to me.
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Thanks Ron, this is very helpful. I sent a note to Danny for price on the Sonicaps. I will follow your build notes - the pics are most helpful.
NB
NB
I recently built a pair of X-LS Encores using the Parts Express cabinets. I posted pictures which may be helpful to you. Look at the following link: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=105301.0
If you have any questions, I will be glad to answer them for you. Suggest that you lightly fill the back half of the cabinet with Dacron Poly Fil or Acousti-Stuff. Also suggest replacing the stock Poly capacitors with Sonicap capacitors.
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Hey, I did finish them but they were a gift and I was really behind in finishing the build so I didn't document/take any pictures beyond what's on the post. The rest of it was really not at all specific to the speaker (veneer, finish, grills, etc.) so you can pick that up in the other posts.
The friend I made these for was going to put them on a TV stand which bumps up to the wall so I didn't port them which just makes them bookshelf safe. They sounded really nice. I played them side-by-side with my B&W CDM 1SE speakers and I thought the Encore blew them away.
Have fun
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Caps and additional stuff for my speaker build is on the way. Fun times in my cool basement next week - let the speaker build begin.
NB
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Grimace remarked that the pair X-LS that he built were sealed so that they could be placed close to the rear wall. That reminded me that if someone has a pair of vented X-LS or X-LS Encores and they wanted
to use them close to the rear wall simply stuff the rear port with a plug of acoustical foam or similar type material. Works very well.
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Danny: My X-LS Encores arrived intact, thanks!
Grimmace: Thanks for posting pics and your listening comments
Nature Boy: Looks like you and I are building at the same time.
Ron: your suggestion on filling the ports for close to wall installs is interesting.
I already see a list of questions starting. For some questions I will probably just "wing it" but, I hope you guys don't get too annoyed with my inquiries. Also, should I document my build start to finish with progress pictures every step, or just keep it low key? (KISS)
BTW/ I hate the impersonal "handle" names used so I will use my name:
Larry
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Hey Larry, just to inspire you some more. I had picked up two X-LS kits in the Memorial Day sale that Danny ran to make for high school graduation gifts. We finished up the first set yesterday and listened to them for a few hours right next to my N3-TLs and I was really, really impressed.
Mids and highs were crisp but natural. The bass was absolutely amazing and tight. The 18-yr old kid that they are for wanted to help build them and he worked hard on them, so I reluctantly gave him the prime listening seat :). The soundstage was big. They imaged well and I had a total blast introducing the next generation to good music (early U2, Cure, Smiths, Cult, Pat Metheny, Roxy Music, Tracy Chapman, Steely Dan) from my teens on some quality equipment. The X-LS played them all well, all while filling a really big room. Lot of fun.
BTW, He's hooked...so pass it on guys.
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Hey Larry, just to inspire you some more. I had picked up two X-LS kits in the Memorial Day sale that Danny ran to make for high school graduation gifts. We finished up the first set yesterday and listened to them for a few hours right next to my N3-TLs and I was really, really impressed.
Mids and highs were crisp but natural. The bass was absolutely amazing and tight. The 18-yr old kid that they are for wanted to help build them and he worked hard on them, so I reluctantly gave him the prime listening seat :). The soundstage was big. They imaged well and I had a total blast introducing the next generation to good music (early U2, Cure, Smiths, Cult, Pat Metheny, Roxy Music, Tracy Chapman, Steely Dan) from my teens on some quality equipment. The X-LS played them all well, all while filling a really big room. Lot of fun.
BTW, He's hooked...so pass it on guys.
I love hearing stories like that. :thumb:
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I don't know about the rest of the follks here (I've only been on AC for a short time) but I love reading the full build threads
If you feel like it, start a new thread and show us your progress :)
-jay
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Hey Danny, When is your next sale on the kits..............I bought one awile back and its good stuff......would like to try the Encore next time around.......maybe they will go on sale also.......Thanks :D BC
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Hey Danny, When is your next sale on the kits..............I bought one awile back and its good stuff......would like to try the Encore next time around.......maybe they will go on sale also.......Thanks :D BC
Those X-LS Encore kits are only $149 and the Classics are only $109. I really don't have much room there to discount them.
How about if I made you guys a really low price on some nice Black painted MDF cabinets with a fine semi-gloss finish?
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Okay, make my day. :) I'll buy a pair of cabinets to go with the pair of Encore's I bought a few weeks ago, as I just don't have time for cabinet building nowadays and I want to build these for my son for the end of the month.
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Okay, make my day. :) I'll buy a pair of cabinets to go with the pair of Encore's I bought a few weeks ago, as I just don't have time for cabinet building nowadays and I want to build these for my son for the end of the month.
Okay, I have a cabinet deal in the works. Stay tuned. Details to come.
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Okay, I have a cabinet deal in the works. Stay tuned. Details to come.
Looks like I may be selling my Mission towers shortly and picking up a pair of these bad boys...
Do you plan on having the baffles precut as well, making it just a matter of putting it all together?
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Looks like I may be selling my Mission towers shortly and picking up a pair of these bad boys...
Do you plan on having the baffles precut as well, making it just a matter of putting it all together?
Completed cabinets (all CNC cut). Possibly unpainted MDF or Black painted MDF.
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Completed cabinets (all CNC cut). Possibly unpainted MDF or Black painted MDF.
Well, time to post up my Mission towers for sale then. ;)
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Completed cabinets (all CNC cut). Possibly unpainted MDF or Black painted MDF.
Wow, can't wait to see how this turns out. Count me in.
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Danny,
Let us know when you have something on cabinets. I may build another pair of Encores.
Okay, I have a cabinet deal in the works. Stay tuned. Details to come.
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Danny, if you offer a really sweet deal on unfinished (I'm still veneer meister) cabinets, I may just have to buy another pair of X-LS Encore kits :wink:
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Whats the sensitivity on the XL-S encores and the X-Omnis?
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Whats the sensitivity on the XL-S encores and the X-Omnis?
86 db for the X-Omni. I think the X-LS is 87 db...
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Thank you
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Box plans are here: http://www.gr-research.com/pdf/x-ls%20classic%20box.pdf
I got hold of the carpenter who also works for a Chennai based speaker maker. He is confused about the measurements provided in the 'box plans. For example, in the box plan of the X-LS front baffle the tweeter hole is written as 3.125" and the countersink is 3.93". The depth of the countersink is mentioned as .18". I tried explaining using the markings on the inch tape but couldn't. Can someone translate these into readable numbers like 3 1/4 inch and measurements like that.
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I got hold of the carpenter who also works for a Chennai based speaker maker. He is confused about the measurements provided in the 'box plans. For example, in the box plan of the X-LS front baffle the tweeter hole is written as 3.125" and the countersink is 3.93". The depth of the countersink is mentioned as .18". I tried explaining using the markings on the inch tape but couldn't. Can someone translate these into readable numbers like 3 1/4 inch and measurements like that.
3.125" is 3 and 1/8th. 3.93 is roughly 3 and 15/16ths (.9375"). .1875 is 3/16ths of an inch.
That should give you a good idea.
If the cabinet builder uses a dial caliper (most people do) then the measurements will be in decimals (like listed) and not in fractions.
If you need me to I can convert to millimeters.
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1 inch equals 25.4 millimeters, so just multiply inches x 25.4 ...
3.125 in. x 25.4 mm/ in. = 79.375 mm
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Where are these being made - India? Surely not. CNC'd = small labor content and shipping MDF across the pond would be expensive. UNLESS you're ordering hundreds of them.
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I got hold of the carpenter who also works for a Chennai based speaker maker. He is confused about the measurements provided in the 'box plans. For example, in the box plan of the X-LS front baffle the tweeter hole is written as 3.125" and the countersink is 3.93". The depth of the countersink is mentioned as .18". I tried explaining using the markings on the inch tape but couldn't. Can someone translate these into readable numbers like 3 1/4 inch and measurements like that.
Hi Rajesh,
This will help.
http://www.seoconsultants.com/charts/inches-decimal/
Best,
Ruben
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Thank you guys for your help. He still seems confused so I have volunteered to mark the cuts for him and he will take care of the rest.
BTW, is it ok to do plain cuts or should I ask him to make dovetail joints, if not for X or A/V kits, at least for the subwoofers.
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That's Danny's call since he is the customer. But I can say as a many year speaker builder that dovetail joints are definitely not needed for strength. If cabinet panels are cut perfect with 90 degree cuts, then butt joints are plenty strong.
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Dovetail joints are not a great idea for MDF as its easier to break off a piece of the dovetail. If you just want a little something more than a butt joint (but as mentioned previously, not really needed), you can have him either butt joint with biscuits or use a lap joint which can give a little extra glue area.
Steve
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If you're really hung up about a stronger joint, these router bits will work in MDF.
http://www.freudtools.com/popup.aspx?src=images/product/large/193.jpg
I've used them before and they work. Don't know you really need them.
Another option is to use dowels and butt joints.
Veneer will cover them up.
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Thank you Hank, Steve and Jcotner for your replies. Since I was not familiar with the terms used, I had used Google to figure how they look and are done.
Here in India, small time carpenters do not have access to such exotic power tools. They have basic stuff like a hand saw, jack/smoothing planes, wood splitting wedge, Carpenter square, Hammer and screw driver and other such nicknacks. Those with small workshops have stuff like power saws and work benches. Stuff like routers and circular jigs are available only with select few.
Yes I'm hung up on a stronger joint; given the circumstances, I'm inclining towards half/lap joint, which I had seen someone using somewhere.
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I want to build 7 of these speakers (2 for my office and 5 for a friend), but my big issue is not having cabinets or the tools to make them (really, the tools won't fit in my Brooklyn apartment). Does anyone build the cabinets? The flat packs would be a possibility if I bought a bunch of clamps, but I think I will need pre-finished cabinets or have some other plan. Any thoughts out there?
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If you can afford them, the prefinished cabinets from Parts Express are beautiful. There are several references to them on these GR threads. And, PE periodically (maybe twice a year?) has a sale on them.
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Yes I'm hung up on a stronger joint; given the circumstances, I'm inclining towards half/lap joint, which I had seen someone using somewhere.
I don't think it is necessary either and find it questionable as to whether this gives much in the way of added strength in mdf. Glue surface is up but the thickness of the mdf where the half lap is done is down. I have never seen any exotic joinery on mdf.
Mind you I don't think it makes a whole lot of difference one way or the other.
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Price isn't the issue really, the issue is cutting the baffle as you need tools for that.
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If you can afford them, the prefinished cabinets from Parts Express are beautiful. There are several references to them on these GR threads. And, PE periodically (maybe twice a year?) has a sale on them.
Some that Ron recently made. You could contact Ron...
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=61403)
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You need a jasper circle jig and a plunge router. A low HP router will work fine. I've cut several of the PE baffles for folks. You can do it. If anyone is going to make several speakers, the investment in a small plunge router and Jasper jig is not out of the question.
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If you don't trust the butt joint on MDF, you can add a simple thin wood strip as I did here to fix a screw-up. These are just table saw blade cuts, and a 1/8" strip glued in. It adds a lot of strength.
http://i.imgur.com/FtTfyl.jpg
Larry
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Danny, on July 11 you wrote:
Okay, I have a cabinet deal in the works. Stay tuned. Details to come.
Is there a deal closing in sight?
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If we stick to the original box plan, what would be the specs? I mean the frequency response, the nominal impedance, power handling, sensitivity, crossover point etc?
You can see complete measurements of the X-LS Encore here: http://www.stereomojo.com/Small%20Speaker%20Shootout%202007/StereomojoSmallSpekerShootout2007MeasurementsPart2.htm
-3db is going to be in the mid 50's with the book shelve design.
Frequency response is a little better than +/-2db from end to end and as good as +/-1 through a pretty wide range.
The nominal impedance is 8 ohms.
Sensitivity is right at 87db.
The crossover point is 1.8kHz.
Power handing is a non-issue. If you have plenty of good clean power on hand then they will handle whatever you through at them. You will only hurt them if you clip an amp on them.
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Danny, I recently purchased an X-LS speaker kit from you to get my feet wet building speakers again before I tackle one of your new designs. In another thread you stated,
The X-Omni's sound better then the X-LS. Same drivers just a different configuration. And when people ask me I tell them, the X-Omni sounds better. But they still go for the X-LS. It just looks more right. Go figure....
If this is the best design for this kit then that's what I'm going to build. Is the X-Omni a ported or sealed box and are all the parts the same?
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Danny, I recently purchased an X-LS speaker kit from you to get my feet wet building speakers again before I tackle one of your new designs. In another thread you stated,
The X-Omni's sound better then the X-LS. Same drivers just a different configuration. And when people ask me I tell them, the X-Omni sounds better. But they still go for the X-LS. It just looks more right. Go figure....
If this is the best design for this kit then that's what I'm going to build. Is the X-Omni a ported or sealed box and are all the parts the same?
The X-omni's use a different tweeter than the X-LS classic. It uses the Peerless tweeter that is used in the X-LS Encore version.
http://gr-research.com/gr-t3tweeter-1.aspx
And when switching to the omni design the crossover is very different. The only thing common with the two kits are the woofers, ports, and binding post cups.
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Danny -
Just got word that one of the driver's in a pair of X-LS's I gave as a gift to my nephew is blown - do you still have individual drivers or know of a source?
I have been told it is a woofer, but they are going to confirm the actual problem and get back to me. Figured I'd try to get a jump on it.
Thanks
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Danny -
Just got word that one of the driver's in a pair of X-LS's I gave as a gift to my nephew is blown - do you still have individual drivers or know of a source?
I have been told it is a woofer, but they are going to confirm the actual problem and get back to me. Figured I'd try to get a jump on it.
Thanks
Over driving them with a Denon receiver?
I have hundreds of them in stock: http://gr-research.com/m130woofer-1.aspx
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Over driving them with a Denon receiver?
I have hundreds of them in stock: http://gr-research.com/m130woofer-1.aspx
Nah, a cr@ppy old Pioneer I had "laying around" - not even sure they had it hooked up right. Good chance that 1 channel on it got blown up during a College party, and that's what took the driver out.
Thanks - I'll order as soon as I get a definitive answer
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The X-omni's use a different tweeter than the X-LS classic. It uses the Peerless tweeter that is used in the X-LS Encore version.
http://gr-research.com/gr-t3tweeter-1.aspx
And when switching to the omni design the crossover is very different. The only thing common with the two kits are the woofers, ports, and binding post cups.
OK, back to floor stander I go.............. Can't wait for the new designs.
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Danny, are there any speaker build threads for X-MTM and AV1RS on the forum, I couldn't find any in my search.
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Sorry if this was already answered, i tried the search but it's difficult...
When you say the crossovers were made in China, does that mean they're already assembled?
Thanks
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Reminder:
Danny, on July 11 you wrote:
Quote
Okay, I have a cabinet deal in the works. Stay tuned. Details to come.
Is there a deal closing in sight?
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Sorry if this was already answered, i tried the search but it's difficult...
When you say the crossovers were made in China, does that mean they're already assembled?
Thanks
Hey welcome to AC!
Yes, the crossovers for all of the X Series kits are fully assembled. And I spec'ed them out to use higher quality parts and thick Copper traces on the circuit boards. Plus some Sonicaps were mailed over to them to be used in some crossovers. So they used higher quality and more costly parts than they were used to.
Reminder:
Danny, on July 11 you wrote:
Quote
Okay, I have a cabinet deal in the works. Stay tuned. Details to come.
Is there a deal closing in sight?
They are done. I am waiting on some packing material and boxes to arrive. Then I am having Ruben pick them up. He will be shipping them out as ordered.
I'll post prices and pics as soon as I can.
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Thanks Danny
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Hey welcome to AC!
Yes, the crossovers for all of the X Series kits are fully assembled. And I spec'ed them out to use higher quality parts and thick Copper traces on the circuit boards. Plus some Sonicaps were mailed over to them to be used in some crossovers. So they used higher quality and more costly parts than they were used to.
They are done. I am waiting on some packing material and boxes to arrive. Then I am having Ruben pick them up. He will be shipping them out as ordered.
I'll post prices and pics as soon as I can.
Thanks! Id like to hear more about the cabinets too. Finished or unfinished, prices, rounded edges, etc. Especially if they are close to being done :-) thanks
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Let me see what i can find out and get back with you on those cabinets.
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Me too. I would be in for 2-3 pairs of kits and cabinets.
Shawn
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Yes, the crossovers for all of the X Series kits are fully assembled. And I spec'ed them out to use higher quality parts and thick Copper traces on the circuit boards. Plus some Sonicaps were mailed over to them to be used in some crossovers. So they used higher quality and more costly parts than they were used to.
Hey Danny,
Even the original X-LS mini monitors come with built xo's (the $109 kit ) ? I may have to order a kit to build for my niece
-jay
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Hey Danny,
Even the original X-LS mini monitors come with built xo's (the $109 kit ) ? I may have to order a kit to build for my niece
-jay
Yep, all of the crossovers are built.
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Wow. OK, get me a cabinet deal, and I will want to by 3 pairs of the X-LS Encores and maybe a center.
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The Parts Express .5 cu-ft cabinets work very well with the X-LS Encores and are very reasonably priced. They are well built, attractive, and available in three finishes ( piano black, cherry, and maple). Since the cabinets are finished all you have to do is route out the holes in the front baffle for the drivers, cut holes in the back of the cabinet for the input cups and vent tubes, and modify the internal perimeter brace by cutting out a section for access to install the crossover. Also, you will have to use 1/4" OD x 1/4" long neodymium spacer magnets between the back of the grill frame at all four corners and the speaker front baffle for the grill frame to clear the edge of the woofer flange.
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Still patiently waiting for Danny to post info and pricing about the cabinet "deal" he has been working on.
Those PE cabinets are the bomb for guys who aren't into cabinet building/finishing, but I'm a veneer addict and want to know what Danny's unfinished cabs will cost.
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Still patiently waiting for Danny to post info and pricing about the cabinet "deal" he has been working on.
Those PE cabinets are the bomb for guys who aren't into cabinet building/finishing, but I'm a veneer addict and want to know what Danny's unfinished cabs will cost.
Still waiting on boxes to ship them in and foam blocks... Someone else is handling it. So I am waiting too.
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Hey Guys,
I have several -boxed and ready to ship- X-LS Encore flat packs on hand.
$125.00 pair, plus shipping and PayPal's 3% fee.
Please shoot me an email at fallenenclosures@yahoo.com if interested.
Thanks!
Ruben
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Hi,
Any X-Omni flat packs or finished cabinets?
Stephen
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Ron
Where did you get the neodymium spacer magnets for the parts express grill? I've been wondering how to make them work.
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Ron
Where did you get the neodymium spacer magnets for the parts express grill? I've been wondering how to make them work.
Ron pointed me here :
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=108845.0
I used the D44 N52 for my N3 grills and they work great
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Hi,
Any X-Omni flat packs or finished cabinets?
Stephen
Hi Stephen,
No X-Omni's...Sorry.
Ron might be able to set you up though!
Best,
Ruben
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Ruben,
Are the edges rounded over on the flat packs, or are they all "squared"?
Thanks.
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I have several -boxed and ready to ship- X-LS Encore flat packs on hand. $125.00 pair, plus shipping and PayPal's 3% fee.
Is this the cabinet deal that Danny has been referring to?
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Is this the cabinet deal that Danny has been referring to?
No. What I am about to offer are completed cabinets.
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Ruben,
Are the edges rounded over on the flat packs, or are they all "squared"?
Thanks.
They're sharp, but I can open one up and round the edges over if that's what you need?
Best,
Ruben
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thanks ruben.
ill almost certainly be building a pair, just wanted to get an idea of options and tools i need. is the woofer hole rounded over in back, i.e. if i want a square cabinet, no router required?
ill likely decide on direction as soon as i see dannys cabinet offering.
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I believe the woofer holes are rounded over on the backside
-jay
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I believe the woofer holes are rounded over on the backside
-jay
Yep...Thanks, Jay. :D
All you'd need to assemble the flatpack is glue and clamps.
Best,
Ruben
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Danny,
are the X LS / X LS Encore kits coming with elecra tubes or a binding post ?
If a binding post , how much to upgrade to electa tubes ?
-jay
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Danny,
are the X LS / X LS Encore kits coming with elecra tubes or a binding post ?
If a binding post , how much to upgrade to electa tubes ?
-jay
They come with a binding post cup just as seen in the pics earlier in this thread.
I can add tube connectors though. I'll throw them in for $50 a set.
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No. What I am about to offer are completed cabinets.
I'd like to build a couple pairs of Encore's as Christmas gifts - will the cabinets be available before December?
Sheets of MDF in my garage and no time to slice and dice 'em. :(
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I'd like to build a couple pairs of Encore's as Christmas gifts - will the cabinets be available before December?
Sheets of MDF in my garage and no time to slice and dice 'em. :(
Cabinets are done. We are waiting for boxes and packing material to arrive.
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any pics of the cabinets? :D
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I'd like to build a couple pairs of Encore's as Christmas gifts - will the cabinets be available before December?
Sheets of MDF in my garage and no time to slice and dice 'em. :(
Hank,
If the packing material isn't here in time I can swing by and grab you a couple pairs and pack them myself. :xmas:
How soon would you need them?
Best,
Ruben
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Thanks Ruben. I think the audience would like to see photos and prices now. Of course we'd understand that there would be a couple of bucks more for packaging materials. Personally, I need to either make time to cut MDF for a couple of pair, or order a couple pair of Parts Express cabinets. Are they all painted? If not, I want to veneer at least one pair - I have plenty of rosewood, makore, some padauk, etc veneer.
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Thanks Ruben. I think the audience would like to see photos and prices now. Of course we'd understand that there would be a couple of bucks more for packaging materials.
Morning Hank,
I received an email from the supplier stating that the speakers were finished, but they did not have foam and boxes yet. I have not seen pictures and have no idea what they'll cost.
Personally, I need to either make time to cut MDF for a couple of pair, or order a couple pair of Parts Express cabinets.
Cool! Judging by your comment I thought you were pretty much counting on these enclosures to build out for Christmas gifts as you didn't have time to do it yourself. Sounds like you can make it happen either way. :thumb:
Are they all painted?
:dunno:
If not, I want to veneer at least one pair - I have plenty of rosewood, makore, some padauk, etc veneer.
Awesome! Can't wait to see some pics. :thumb:
Best,
Ruben
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I really don't have time to build from scratch, although I did that for many years. Corporate responsibility is now a big item. BTW, Danny posted that your cabinets would be painted. What's the disconnect?
In reality, I'll have to buy from you or Parts Express. PM me if you want.
thanks
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I really don't have time to build from scratch, although I did that for many years. Corporate responsibility is now a big item. BTW, Danny posted that your cabinets would be painted. What's the disconnect?
In reality, I'll have to buy from you or Parts Express. PM me if you want.
thanks
The painted XL-S enclosures were not built by me.
Danny asked if I could help him out by picking them up from a local supplier and shipping them to the customer. They're currently held up at the suppliers warehouse due to a lack of packing/shipping materials. This first group will be ready to start shipping as soon as the materials arrive.
Fortunately, you can just order from PE if they aren't ready in time for Christmas.
Great gifts, BTW! :thumb:
Best,
Ruben
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Okay, some of us are waiting for prices, so I guess we'll have to wait a bit longer.
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Any news on the speaker cabinets? Anxiously awaiting anything...
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OK, I do understand that this might be an unusual question, but would a X-LS Encore work in a car door/ dash?
I have just been quoted almost $3K for a 3 way (canadian) speaker set up to be installed in my car in the front doors/dash and this seems like a heap of money!
If you were to instal the woofer for the X-LS Encore in the doors and the tweeter in the dash (firing at the window and bounced at your face (which I think will fit)), would that work??
I would imagine that you might need to damp the tweeter a smidge (is that easy enough with a few resitors??)
I also understand that a 2 x 100w car amp (i.e. into 4 ohms, hence 2x 50w into 8 ohms) would be preferable (, may be even high passed at at 50Hz or so(?)) would be suggested :)
anyway, just a thought, anybody think of something I might have missed here?
ta
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OK, I do understand that this might be an unusual question, but would a X-LS Encore work in a car door/ dash?
I have just been quoted almost $3K for a 3 way (canadian) speaker set up to be installed in my car in the front doors/dash and this seems like a heap of money!
If you were to instal the woofer for the X-LS Encore in the doors and the tweeter in the dash (firing at the window and bounced at your face (which I think will fit)), would that work??
I would imagine that you might need to damp the tweeter a smidge (is that easy enough with a few resitors??)
I also understand that a 2 x 100w car amp (i.e. into 4 ohms, hence 2x 50w into 8 ohms) would be preferable (, may be even high passed at at 50Hz or so(?)) would be suggested :)
anyway, just a thought, anybody think of something I might have missed here?
ta
If you mount speakers like that into a car then the crossover has to be redesigned. In fact it has to be designed in the car and for that car. Not easy...
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Thanks Danny :)
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Danny, can you tell us how much longer your speaker cabinets will take? Not much time left before Christmas and I'd rather not buy the PE cabinets. thx
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Danny, can you tell us how much longer your speaker cabinets will take? Not much time left before Christmas and I'd rather not buy the PE cabinets. thx
I was told yesterday that the foam solution was taken care of and should be completed in a couple of days. They should be ready very soon. As soon as I find out what the foam pieces and boxing cost I will have a price. I expect a great price that you guys will really like. I will be giving them away at cost just to move some more of these kits.
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I was told yesterday that the foam solution was taken care of and should be completed in a couple of days. They should be ready very soon. As soon as I find out what the foam pieces and boxing cost I will have a price. I expect a great price that you guys will really like. I will be giving them away at cost just to move some more of these kits.
That is music to my ears since I am moving soon and won't be able to build anything. Can't wait!
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Danny
Do you have a PDF of the X-Voce enclosure?
Can the front baffle be made from Baltic birch or do you still recommend MDF?
Any improvements that can be made if rolling your own?
What radius for the rear of the open baffle drivers and what radius for for the sealed drivers for the back of the baffle?
What mods improve the most on the X-Voce and X-Statik speakers for the best bang for the buck? There must be a point where you get most of the improvements before money is no object.
Thanks for steering me in the right direction.
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Danny
Do you have a PDF of the X-Voce enclosure?
Can the front baffle be made from Baltic birch or do you still recommend MDF?
Any improvements that can be made if rolling your own?
What radius for the rear of the open baffle drivers and what radius for for the sealed drivers for the back of the baffle?
What mods improve the most on the X-Voce and X-Statik speakers for the best bang for the buck? There must be a point where you get most of the improvements before money is no object.
Thanks for steering me in the right direction.
I can e-mail you enclosure plans.
I like MDF myself, but you can use Baltic Birch on this cabinet.
The radius on the back side can be 3/8" to 1/2 on 3/4" material.
The best mods are upgrading the caps to Sonicaps and lining the cabinet with No Rez.
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I can e-mail you enclosure plans.
I like MDF myself, but you can use Baltic Birch on this cabinet.
The radius on the back side can be 3/8" to 1/2 on 3/4" material.
The best mods are upgrading the caps to Sonicaps and lining the cabinet with No Rez.
I also have two choices that would be cheaper for me and match my furniture.
I would like the front baffle to be the same thickness the full 48" length.
( That is what most of the pictures of the X-Statik looks like)
Can I do either of the following and if so what thickness from 1.5" to 2.5" would be ideal? Which would be the better choice if it would work?
This first on is 1" wide quarter sawn Red Oak 1.5" to 2.5" thick.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=70430)
Or a solid 8.5" x 48" quarter sawn Red Oak board 1.5" to 2.5" thick?
It would be easier to make and finish the front baffle for both the X-Statik and X-Voce and fasten the woofer enclosures to them.
It looks like four sheets of No-Rez would just cover the three enclosures. Am I correct?
I am covering the last details to get a good idea of the total cost.
Thanks for all your help on this.
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Solid woods tend to warp and move too much. And they are much more resonant.
You can get by with laminating a layer of solid wood to MDF and that can work out pretty well.
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Solid woods tend to warp and move too much. And they are much more resonant.
You can get by with laminating a layer of solid wood to MDF and that can work out pretty well.
Ok MDF it is.
But from one PDF plan I saw the bottom front panel was 3/4" while the top was doubled at 1.5". All the X-Statik's I saw look like 1.5" all the way down?
How did they do that veneer that way for the production run?
Since you do not have any completed ones left I need to make my own. I am sure it will help others in the same boat as I.
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I would not glue solid wood onto MDF - use paper-backed veneer and you'll be pleased with the result Hand-rubbed Danish oil finish, or for maximum protection, polyurethane finish.
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On 10/30 Danny wrote:
I was told yesterday that the foam solution was taken care of and should be completed in a couple of days. They should be ready very soon. As soon as I find out what the foam pieces and boxing cost I will have a price. I expect a great price that you guys will really like. I will be giving them away at cost just to move some more of these kits.
Sorry to pester Danny, but are you able to post details/photos of these X LS/X LS Encore cabinets?
thanks
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On 10/30 Danny wrote: Sorry to pester Danny, but are you able to post details/photos of these X LS/X LS Encore cabinets?
thanks
I can't wait to provide that info. I have someone working on getting me that today.
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Ok MDF it is.
But from one PDF plan I saw the bottom front panel was 3/4" while the top was doubled at 1.5". All the X-Statik's I saw look like 1.5" all the way down?
How did they do that veneer that way for the production run?
Since you do not have any completed ones left I need to make my own. I am sure it will help others in the same boat as I.
I have a lot of completed X-Voce left.
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Hi Dennis,
I am upgrading my 12 x 17 x 8' HT.
I am thinking of going X-OMNI all around in a 5.1 system.
Can I put the X-OMNI in a smaller cabinet (bookshelf/ monitor size) and mount this against wall with woofer downfiring ?
Thanks
zhe.
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Hi Dennis,
I am upgrading my 12 x 17 x 8' HT.
I am thinking of going X-OMNI all around in a 5.1 system.
Can I put the X-OMNI in a smaller cabinet (bookshelf/ monitor size) and mount this against wall with woofer downfiring ?
Thanks
zhe.
Any omni designed free standing speaker needs to be placed a good 3 feet or more from any wall.
Something like an X-CS makes for a better center channel and allows for placement very near the wall.
And welcome to AC!
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I can't wait to provide that info. I have someone working on getting me that today.
I'm running out of time and need to make a decision and order cabs this week.
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I'm running out of time and need to make a decision and order cabs this week.
Ruben now has possession of the cabinets and will be sending or posting pics soon. I need to work out some handing and boxing details with Ruben then will have a price.
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Hi All, :wave:
I will try to get some pics up by tomorrow afternoon.
The packing materials are still held up by the enclosure supplier, so I will be using my own packing. I am charging $25.00 for packing materials and the boxing up of each pair.
Shipping will be handled by FedEx. As soon as I get a pair ready to ship I will post dimensions and weight so that you can calculate what your shipping cost will be.
Thanks!
Ruben
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Ruben, if you are not the supplier, who is? No, I'm not going to try to buy direct from whoever it is.
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Ruben, if you are not the supplier, who is? No, I'm not going to try to buy direct from whoever it is.
I owe them and will be selling them. Ruben will be packing and shipping.
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Is there a cabinet price yet?
Cabinet Price (unknown) + $25 handling (Ruben) + Actual Shipping Charges.
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Okay, here is what I am going to do.
These were made for me by a guy that owed me some money and I let him pay me in cabinets. That is all I am going to say about that. Long story, don't ask.
I am going to blow them out for less that what I have in them. I just want them to move fast and to more kits for Santiago.
Ruben needs $25 a pair for packing material, boxes, and handling these things. He had to go pick them all up too. Also average shipping cost per pair is about $35.
So I am going to blow out the unpainted MDF cabinets for $150 a pair delivered. That means I pay the shipping. I pay Ruben for handling. So you guys get them for $75 a piece delivered to your door and you pay me for them when ordering your kit.
For the painted ones I will offer the same deal. I pay for Ruben to handle and pack them and for all the shipping. You guys get them for $200 a pair delivered to your door.
And that is inside the Continental US.
Ruben will post some pics as soon as he can.
I have:
10 ) X-LS Classic boxes not painted
6 ) X-LS Encore boxes not painted
6 ) X-LS Classic boxes painted
8 ) X-LS Encore boxes painted
Painted boxes are all Black.
The initial feedback that I got from Ruben on the quality of the raw MDF boxes was pretty good and for the painted ones, fair. I'll let him comment on them further.
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Ruben, all we need now are some good photos posted. I need to make a decision by tomorrow.
Also, what is the MDF thickness and are they well-braced?
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Ruben, all we need now are some good photos posted. I need to make a decision by tomorrow.
Also, what is the MDF thickness and are they well-braced?
I will get some pics up later today.
Ruben
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Hi all ! First post as a newbie . Wahoo. Hope i do this in the right place and time. I got to hear a pair of n2x a couple years ago. They sounded detailed and clear . I am in the last stages of deciding between a pair of x-omni or x-statik kits that Danny has. Either one would be upgraded with the sonicaps. Just hard to do pick having not heard them. Any one who has both care to offer some insight? Or just point me in the page where it was already discussed. Thanks
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Hi all ! First post as a newbie . Wahoo. Hope i do this in the right place and time. I got to hear a pair of n2x a couple years ago. They sounded detailed and clear . I am in the last stages of deciding between a pair of x-omni or x-statik kits that Danny has. Either one would be upgraded with the sonicaps. Just hard to do pick having not heard them. Any one who has both care to offer some insight? Or just point me in the page where it was already discussed. Thanks
I own and have upgraded both speakers. Personally, I use the X-Statiks as my reference speakers. Not that I haven't heard better. But for the money these were a steal and the best I can currently afford. Plus I just love the way they look. The first time I heard them I was absolutely blown away. My jaw literally dropped. Fantastic speakers! Highly recommended!
Currently I use the Omnis in my HT rig as surrounds. The ambiance they create is spooky good! I haven't tried them as mains in a long time but I remember finding their sound to be big and expansive with an incredible soundstage. In my older and larger apartment I used them in the bedroom at the foot of the bed. They made for great ambiance and late night listening. You have to give them space from the walls for them to sound their best.
Either one is a good choice but I say go for the gold and get the Statiks. You wont regret it. :thumb:
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Hey Guys,
Couldn't keep my eyes open long enough to get the pictures taken and posted last night. :icon_lol:
The glue joints are visible here and there, there is some overspray on the tops and the lacquer was not applied very smoothly. The woofer holes are not rounded-over on the inside edge.
The unfinished ones will need a bit of sanding to smooth out the round-overs before finishing.
Even with these imperfections, you are still getting a REALLY good package deal on these speakers. They will look fine and sound great from the couch! :thumb:
Thanks,
Ruben
Again, I played no part in the building, or finishing of these enclosures.
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/X-LSEnclosures.png)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/X-LSEnclosures2.png)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/X-LSEnclosures3.png)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/X-LSEnclosures1.png)
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Hi all ! First post as a newbie . Wahoo. Hope i do this in the right place and time. I got to hear a pair of n2x a couple years ago. They sounded detailed and clear . I am in the last stages of deciding between a pair of x-omni or x-statik kits that Danny has. Either one would be upgraded with the sonicaps. Just hard to do pick having not heard them. Any one who has both care to offer some insight? Or just point me in the page where it was already discussed. Thanks
I own both. So I can give you quite a bit of insight.
What kind of application are you planning on using them in?
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Danny,
Is that bracing O.K. on the LS boxes or should it be changed or added to?
And a completely different question, with the new 6.5" 8 ohm version of your new speakers, what would be the correct cubic feet for one in a sealed box and for 2 sealed in a box?
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I'd add a crossbrace like the center one on the back baffle between the two holes
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Danny,
Is that bracing O.K. on the LS boxes or should it be changed or added to?
And a completely different question, with the new 6.5" 8 ohm version of your new speakers, what would be the correct cubic feet for one in a sealed box and for 2 sealed in a box?
Bracing looks a little light. If it were me then I would be adding some.
My new 8 ohm woofers need at least .67 cubic feet sealed.
The 16 ohm woofers have an even higher Qts and would need 2.5 cubic feet sealed for the pair.
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Thanks Corndog for your info. Do any attributes stick out one from the other to say this one is better because of this or that? Can you easily pinpoint singers, instruments, etc one more than the other? I guess it isn't about one being better than the other but me trying to understand what attributes or positives one has that fit more of what I think I would like to hear. Hope that makes sense.
Pureiso I only have a two channel marantz pm15s2. I am not going to go surround although I use my system everyday for movies and music. My feelings are if the music portion sounds good and accurate it will be more than adequate for movies. Music quality first. I really don't have a good sub that I use at this time but would like to add one or two at some point in the future as I hear two are better than one. :icon_lol: I would love to hear how you feel about both of them that you have! Thanks
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I've been monitoring this thread from a distance. The kit prices and the enclosure deal are hitting that sweet spot for someone interested in dabbling in diy, but weary of getting in too deep on the first go-around.
Two questions on the enclosures (assuming there are still some available):
1. Is the MDF of the appropriate thickness?
2. What about the missing radius on the backside of the cutouts? I assume the radius is a physical requirement - how hard is adding that going to be on an assembled cabinet?
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The MDF is the correct thickness.
You guys will need one of these to cut the back side of the woofer hole though.
(http://www.toolstoday.com/images/PRODUCT/medium/5159.jpg)
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Fail. I have waited a LONG time for this seemingly simple offer of basic MDF boxes. I asked for at least an estimate of price and nothing was forthcoming. I asked for MDF thickness and there is no reply. I will order today from PE, a pair of finished cabs and a pair of their flats. This is my first disappointment in GR Research in a many year-long relationship, but, given all the good transactions and results, this is just a small speed bump. Danny remains my fav in the DIY supplier venue.
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Fail. I have waited a LONG time for this seemingly simple offer of basic MDF boxes. I asked for at least an estimate of price and nothing was forthcoming. I asked for MDF thickness and there is no reply. I will order today from PE, a pair of finished cabs and a pair of their flats. This is my first disappointment in GR Research in a many year-long relationship, but, given all the good transactions and results, this is just a small speed bump. Danny remains my fav in the DIY supplier venue.
Sorry Hank, I didn't have any of this information until Ruben arrived to pick the boxes up. I got no picks, no pricing, or anything. And they weren't even in boxes like they were suppose to be. So now I am having to purchase shipping boxes and packing material.
These are still less expensive than the PE boxes as well.
And I will be glad to send you my reverse router bit if you mail it back when you are done. Or I will pay Ruben to run a router through the woofer holes before shipping.
All of this does use 3/4" MDF that was made in the USA and not imported Chinese made MDF boxes.
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Thanks Corndog for your info. Do any attributes stick out one from the other to say this one is better because of this or that? Can you easily pinpoint singers, instruments, etc one more than the other? I guess it isn't about one being better than the other but me trying to understand what attributes or positives one has that fit more of what I think I would like to hear. Hope that makes sense.
Well the most obvious difference is the complexity of the 3-way x-statik vs. the 2-way omni. The statik can handle more power, has better bass and a more fleshed out sound. The omni seems to run out of steam if you push them too hard. Both produce very good sound stages although I think the statik does it better since all of the drivers are facing forward. It's a bit of a challenge describing the omni. It's a unique speaker. On the practical side the omni would be an easier build and cheaper to upgrade. Now you're making me want to try the omnis as mains. I'll report back after some experimenting.
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Thanks again CORNDOG! I will put your vote down as a solid x-statik supporter. And what you said about more fleshed out since the drivers are all facing forward seems reasonable. Makes sense. Good description. Let me know how the speaker swapping goes and your impressions.
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Or I will pay Ruben to run a router through the woofer holes before shipping.
Maybe Ruben can do this to all the boxes for a fee, saves everyone buying a bit themselves :)
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Thanks again CORNDOG! I will put your vote down as a solid x-statik supporter. And what you said about more fleshed out since the drivers are all facing forward seems reasonable. Makes sense. Good description. Let me know how the speaker swapping goes and your impressions.
So I listened to the Omnis and and got a refreshed opinion about them. They throw up a surprisingly big soundstage! I think I could live with the Omnis if I had to. About the only complaint I have about them is that as good as they sound they seem to lack a certain oomph with the sound. They're very laid back and a bit reserved which I like but there seems to be a lack of energy to the sound. I even tried driving them with my big amp (250 watts!) and their character stayed the same. Also, you definitely want a good sub with the Omnis as their bass is kinda weak. I will say that the omnis excel as surround speakers so long as you don't mind them being towers taking up floor space.
Perhaps if you don't want to go all out for the Statiks but still want a good 2-way tower then consider the X-SLS kit. I also have them in my living room (yes, I'm a total addict of Danny's speakers! :green:) and I think they actually outperform the Omnis and provide substantially better bass by themselves.
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Hey Danny I scanned through the thread and don't think I saw it - can you link the plans to the omnis? Also, how much no-rez do you think would be needed for two X-SLS boxes and an X-CS box?
And finally, I think the link to the X-CS Encore plans is broken. Thanks.
- Brad
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Hey Danny I scanned through the thread and don't think I saw it - can you link the plans to the omnis? Also, how much no-rez do you think would be needed for two X-SLS boxes and an X-CS box?
And finally, I think the link to the X-CS Encore plans is broken. Thanks.
- Brad
X-Omni box plans: http://gr-research.com/pdf/X-omni%20box.pdf
I think you will have to get two sheets of No Rez to cover all three of those boxes.
And I just fixed the X-CS Encore box plans link. http://gr-research.com/pdf/X-CS%20Encore.pdf
Thanks!
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Danny,
Are the x-ls encore kits still available? What will it cost me delivered to CA 94515?
Happy Thanksgiving, :)
Michael
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Danny,
Are the x-ls encore kits still available? What will it cost me delivered to CA 94515?
Happy Thanksgiving, :)
Michael
Hundreds of them are still available.
Calistoga, CA must be a rural location as shipping cost is a few dollars higher than typical.
$22.50 to a residence with insurance via UPS. $18.50 to a business location.
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Hello Danny,
I am a member of Hifivision forum & have been following the thread related to the groupbuy by the forum members on that forum until now... After hearing many positive things about these kits from member's whose opinion I trust(Magma,Captrajesh etc), I think these will be perfect for my 5.1 setup... I have a few questions regarding these so I can figure out how to get them shipped to India...
1) What would be the combined weight of a x-statik + x-voce + x-ls encore kits for a 5.0 setup... Also what would be the approx shipping cost for these kits to New york... I have a cousin there who will arrange for them to be shipped to India...
2) Will these work well with my AVR? The model I own is a Harmon Kardon AVR3600...
3) For surrounds I am thinking of using the x-ls encore... Would that be a good choice or are the omni better...
Regards
Rajadeep...
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1) I can pack them in two boxes. The X-Statiks will weigh 38 pounds and the X-Voce with X-LS Encore kit can be boxed together weighing 32 pounds. I will need a zip code for your friend in New York to quote the shipping.
2) No problems with the receiver.
3) The ideal rear surrounds depends on the room. It is best that the listener be as far away from the rear speakers as the front speakers, but this is rarely the case. The X-Omni's are awesome but really need to be at least 3 feet from any wall. If the seating position is near the rear wall and you are able to wall mount the speakers then nothing beats the A/V-1RS: http://gr-research.com/av-1rs.aspx The A/V-1RS will create a large non-localized sound field like no other wall mounted speaker. If wall mounting is not an option and 3 feet from any wall placement is not going to work in your room then the X-LS's can be used for that application.
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And Rajadeep,
Welcome to AC.
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Danny,
Are the x-ls encore kits still available? What will it cost me delivered to CA 94515?
Happy Thanksgiving, :)
Michael
Hey welcome Coach! I'm just down the Mark West Road from you in Santa Rosa. You can't beat these kits. Unless of course you add sonocaps. Let me know if you are ever interested in listening to my rig or some of the other Audio Circle guys in the neighborhood. Seasons Greetings.
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Danny,
I tried to read through the entire post for these answers but may have missed them:
How much no rez is required for a pair of X-Statiks and a single X-Voce?
Any Christmas specials planned for these particular kits?
I would guess that this front three would have no problem integrating with your subs since they are lower end is from the sealed enclosures (I am running a pair of SW12a's with the PR12s)?
Thanks for your time.
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To completely cover the three of them you will need 4 sheets.
I'll still honor this sale price: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=106681.0
And yes our servo subs will work great with these.
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Danny, are all the enclosure plans based upon using a 3/4" thick material? ...Thanks
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Danny, are all the enclosure plans based upon using a 3/4" thick material? ...Thanks
Yes.
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Hi,
New to the forum, and very interested in buying a DIY kit.
I'm a newbie and so can you help me with the selection?
The speakers will go in my basement. They will run off this Elekit tube stereo amp
http://www.vkmusic.ca/TU-870R.htm
I'm not a high volume guy...just purity of sound.
Value is a major factor.
Also, I can do basic soldering, but wood work is not my strong suit nor do I have great tools for the job.
Can you suggest a speaker box kit that would fit the components, perhaps from these guys:
http://www.parts-express.com/cat/hi-fi-speaker-cabinets/288
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Sorry, if I was not clear, I'm looking for a recommendation for what speaker set to get.
Also I live in Toronto Canada
Thanks
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I think a lot of Danny's 2 driver speakers will work well in the .5 cu ft cabinets. Nice thing is those same cabinets are available in Canada from Creative Sound Soulutions.
http://www.creativesound.ca/details.php?model=BLKC.50
http://www.creativesound.ca/details.php?model=BLKR.50
Other sizes and colors available too
When you and Danny decide what the best kit for you would be, just be sure to find out which size of cabinet to get.
-jay
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If I wanted to lower the tweeters on the x-statik, would it be preferable to deepen the cabinet or make it wider?
thx,
Mike
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If I wanted to lower the tweeters on the x-statik, would it be preferable to deepen the cabinet or make it wider?
thx,
Mike
I am not sure why you'd want the tweeters to be lower. They need to be closer to ear level.
The only way to make the box shorter is to remove space below the lower woofer. This means the box for those lower woofer would have to get deeper.
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Thanks for the reply.
I want to lower the tweeter by about 4" because I want the feet to be 1.5" thick and I want to add spikes, plus my seating height is a bit lower than "normal". My calculations show that the cabinet depth needs to be increased by about 2.5". Does this sound about right? I will be ordering soon. What are your "I am on holiday vacation, don't bother me" days?
thanks,
Mike
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Thanks for the reply.
I want to lower the tweeter by about 4" because I want the feet to be 1.5" thick and I want to add spikes, plus my seating height is a bit lower than "normal". My calculations show that the cabinet depth needs to be increased by about 2.5". Does this sound about right? I will be ordering soon. What are your "I am on holiday vacation, don't bother me" days?
thanks,
Mike
You can contact me any time. If I don't answer then leave a message and I'll call you back.
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Thanks for the reply.
I want to lower the tweeter by about 4" because I want the feet to be 1.5" thick and I want to add spikes, plus my seating height is a bit lower than "normal". My calculations show that the cabinet depth needs to be increased by about 2.5". Does this sound about right? I will be ordering soon. What are your "I am on holiday vacation, don't bother me" days?
thanks,
Mike
I wouldn't bother changing it over 4" difference. Sometimes I listen while sitting on the floor and it's fine.
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Im interested in DIY-ing a set of speakers for my home theater. For now just the front mains and center.
After a whole lot of wandering around the internet I ended up pointed at this sale thread.
Would the X-LS Encores be appropriate for a wall-mounted main? Teaming them up with a flat panel, prefer to avoid stands if possible just to keep everything neat and clean.
Thanks in advance.
-Chris
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Im interested in DIY-ing a set of speakers for my home theater. For now just the front mains and center.
After a whole lot of wandering around the internet I ended up pointed at this sale thread.
Would the X-LS Encores be appropriate for a wall-mounted main? Teaming them up with a flat panel, prefer to avoid stands if possible just to keep everything neat and clean.
Thanks in advance.
-Chris
You could put them in a sealed box and wall mount them, but they were not designed to be used that way. They will be a bit bass heavy like that.
I do have a a kit that is designed to be wall mounted though: http://gr-research.com/av-1rs.aspx
And welcome to AC Chris!
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Danny, this is probably a long shot but... The wife isn't too excited about the size of the X-CS Encore - is it possible to use an X-LS Encore on its side as a center? I know standing it up as normal is fine but is putting it on its side possible? If not, I'll use one standing up or buy the wife a dress or something who knows...Thanks - Brad.
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Danny, this is probably a long shot but... The wife isn't too excited about the size of the X-CS Encore - is it possible to use an X-LS Encore on its side as a center? I know standing it up as normal is fine but is putting it on its side possible? If not, I'll use one standing up or buy the wife a dress or something who knows...Thanks - Brad.
Brad, no problem man. That is what it was designed for. Go ahead and lay it over on its side.
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Just making sure you read it right - Using an X-LS on its side is as a center instead of the X-CS is ok?
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Just making sure you read it right - Using an X-LS on its side is as a center instead of the X-CS is ok?
Oh sorry. I thought you had the X-CS.
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The A/V-3S is smaller: http://gr-research.com/av-3s.aspx
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Thanks - maybe I'll build a pair of AV-1's and an AV-3S...hmmm
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The AV-1's,AV-2's, AV-3's,and the AV-3S all sound very nice. In my opinion they are not quite as detailed sounding as the N series speakers, but sound very close. They have a somewhat lively sound quality without sounding too bright. They are very nice speakers for both home theater use and music.
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Let me start by saying that I am a newbie at building speaker cabinets, I have never made one, but I always wanted to do one and when I saw that Danny was offering good deals on the Encore series, I decided to take a plunge. I must say that I am not an estranger when it comes to carpentry as I have done a good number of projects.
I also want to thank Danny for making available these speakers to all members and for sharing generously his knowledge, without some clarifications, I may have not tackled this project; thank you Danny.
I never had a center channel and I was considering many options; even buying one ready-made. I am aware and read that timbre matching is important and that MTM center channels have lobbing problems, etc. So the only viable solution will be to have all three main speakers the same and vertically oriented; if this is the ideal situation, many of us do not have the space to make that accommodation. On the other hand, my ears are aging and I am not too concern about timbre issues; I leave this worry to those with finer ears than mine.
The Encore series enjoyed good reviews and when the sale announcement showed up I could not wait. I initially wanted the X-SL Encore, but decide to go for the X-CS Encore kit instead with the updated caps and No-Rez; I decided to keep the same resistors.
There was some hope that cabinets will be available later on, but after waiting and then finally knowing that within the list Danny posted of boxes available, the X-CS was not there, that is when I decided to jump on, get my tools and get going before cold sets in.
I followed the plan Danny sent with the goodies, MDF all the way, but for braces I used ¾” Baltic birch with 3/8” radius all over, sanded smooth and a coat of shellac as a final touch. The box is held together with cookies and there are also cookies holding the large braces; I did not use nails or screws anywhere, the only screws are those holding the drivers. When the glue dried, I sealed all the internal joins with a bead of silicone, then I lightly coat the interior walls with shellac, this is to have a better surface for No Rez.
One sheet of No Rez covers everything but the back of the front baffle….I know Danny said that there should be no empty spaces. I did not want to order another sheet just for the little bit I need it to fully cover the back of the front baffle, so I left it like that. I did put a handful of polyfill in the back wall facing each driver as recommended.
I did not want to put yet another “how to do it” kind of tread since there already are a handful and well detailed construction guides that other members have graciously shared. The guidelines are basically all the same; however, the techniques for each build are different because not everyone has every tool; therefore, creativity will come to play and that is what happened in my case, so I will share what I did different.
The biggest challenge for me was the round openings for the drivers and connector, particularly the rabbets for the tweeter and the back connector. I knew that a circle jig will make this task easier, but it requires a plunge router and I do not have it; I do not have a circle jig like Jasper either and did not want to buy one just yet because particularly with this jig you cannot infinitely adjust to the radius you want, it is fix to 1/16” increments. So what I ended up doing is making templates out of ¼” hardboard; that is, I cut two templates for each, tweeter and the connector in the back, one to cut the inside opening and another to cut the rabbet and outside diameter. I made another template to cut the woofer openings and two more templates to cut the braces B and C. Make sure you put some sort of registration marks on the templates so that they will match. I decided to scribe a center vertical line as a reference to locate all circle templates and it worked out alright.
The other reason to make the templates is because I do not have a plunge router and there have been very few times I have wished to have one, but have managed to come up with some other ways to accomplished what I wanted to do. This case was not the exception and the way to do it was to make rough cuts close to the final dimension with my jigsaw and with the help of a drum sander and lot of patience, bring the OD to the final dimension. I then cut everything with the templates, 3/8” bushing and a ¼” bit on my router. Yes, it is a lot of work and requires patience, but this is the only way to have a guaranteed final dimension. Of course, I did some trial cuts and fine tune the templates before making the final cuts.
To make sure MDF screws won’t strip once installing components, I put a few drops of diluted shellac in each previously drilled screw pilot holes, MDF sucks diluted shellac like water in a desert and dries fast. This way, MDF holds without crumpling when driving the screws, the shellac gives strength, the screw cuts its threads, there is no deformation and you can actually tighten the screw a bit without much fear, just put a bit of beeswax in each screw before driving them home.
I am putting this center channel inside an opening in a credenza and I did not see the need to put a fancy finish on this speaker, no veneer or piano finish for this guy. Instead, I sanded the whole thing to 240-grit and put 3 coats of wipe-on varnish, waiting for each to dry, sand again with finer grade and then topped it up with a coat of garnet shellac. When dried, I did not like the shine and decided to wet-sand the whole thing and left it with a nice mate finish; I then rubbed a bit of car wax with no silicone – yes, you read correctly – car wax – I did not have furniture grade wax at the time. The results are fine, wife is happy and here are some pictures of the finished X-CS Encore Center Channel. Thanks Danny ☺
As far as comments on how it sounds, I am not an expert nor do I have golden ears, but those who had the chance to hear them and myself, think that there is a huge improvement in the vocal section compared to the standard wide screen TV speakers and the little Sony center channel I been using. All I can say is that there is clarity, definition; I can better understand the dialog and the speaker appears to have a good wide dispersion.
I was concerned about timbre matching with my old, refurbished AR-2ax speakers, but having a chance to see and hear the movie Thor the other night, my family or I did not notice any audible differences or errors and it appears that they all get along pretty well. The lows are solid with this combination and I think I may not need a sub. I been listening to the X-CS for more than a month and this speaker alone with my AR-2ax brings new definition and clarity when playing music as well. I think the brake-in period is refining the character of this speaker for the better. I still need to tweak my processor once I move everything to its final place, but so far, I am very please with the results. Leaving the technical aspects and details on the side, I just want to end by saying that I am very much happy with how this speakers turned out; there may be better sounding speakers out there, but these are keepers for me and there are no plans to go out and audition so more…..I got better things to do with my time….like enjoying music and watch more movies.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=73674)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=73675)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=73673)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=73676)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=73677)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=73673)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=73678)
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Nice job! I'm impressed by how it looks. I may have to try something like that for my unfinished subwoofer cabinet.
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Nice job! I'm impressed by how it looks. I may have to try something like that for my unfinished subwoofer cabinet.
Thank you much. I think you will like the raw look, tint the wipe on varnish to the color you like and do not apply the shellac after the three coats of varnish like I did, but wet sand lightly or go over with 0000 steel wool and wax.
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Welcome to AC bocina!
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Welcome to AC bocina!
Thank you Danny, now that I am hooked to this hobby I have a question....I been reading about A/B O, X-Omni and A/V-1RS for surround duty. I would like to go with one pair of the first two, but I do not have the 3ft all-around space they need. So, my best bet is the A/V-1RS, but I can only give them the 16" above and nothing on the side. Danny, what do I expect the Sound to be when these speakers are also close to an adjacent wall and not the 2ft recommended?
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Thank you Danny, now that I am hooked to this hobby I have a question....I been reading about A/B O, X-Omni and A/V-1RS for surround duty. I would like to go with one pair of the first two, but I do not have the 3ft all-around space they need. So, my best bet is the A/V-1RS, but I can only give them the 16" above and nothing on the side. Danny, what do I expect the Sound to be when these speakers are also close to an adjacent wall and not the 2ft recommended?
The A/V-1RS really needs to be away from the side walls or they will cause an early reflection that will disrupt the response.
You can however mount them on the ceiling facing the rear wall with the center of the tweeters 16" from the wall. It works just as well that way too.
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Danny, i've considered ceiling mount, but the reflecting wall has a wide window and there are courtins, which may block reflection, the key element so that these speakers can do their magic. Because the width of this window, i have about 15" on each side and not enough space, so one side of each speaker will have plenty space, and the other will face the corner wall. The other side of the room has the same window size, then open wall on the other two walls...Bad room for surrounds.
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Danny, i've considered ceiling mount, but the reflecting wall has a wide window and there are courtins, which may block reflection, the key element so that these speakers can do their magic. Because the width of this window, i have about 15" on each side and not enough space, so one side of each speaker will have plenty space, and the other will face the corner wall. The other side of the room has the same window size, then open wall on the other two walls...Bad room for surrounds.
Man, that does make things pretty tricky.
We might have to look at some pics of your room to help you figure it out.
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This maybe a silly question but I had to ask.
Is it possible to add two additional 6.5 drivers to the lower sealed section of the X-statik design and keep the impedance and crossover the same? Would you gain anything by doing so? Or would the enclosure size increase too much to make it feasible?
Thanks for your time
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This maybe a silly question but I had to ask.
Is it possible to add two additional 6.5 drivers to the lower sealed section of the X-statik design and keep the impedance and crossover the same? Would you gain anything by doing so? Or would the enclosure size increase too much to make it feasible?
Thanks for your time
You could use four of the 8 ohm woofers, but there really isn't that much room, and it would be about four feet deep to allow for the right air space. The crossover would need to be redone too.
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Thanks for the response. I was trying to do something unique
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Over the past 18 months I have built a number of X-LS Encores for myself and others. I have found them to be truly excellent sounding speakers, and a real bargin at the low price that Danny is asking for the kits. With the optional performance upgrade mods ( Sonicap capacitors, Mills resistors, and No-Rez cabinet damping treatment) their performance can be raised to a higher level which in my opinion and the opinion of others is worth the additional cost. The performance level of the X-LS Encores as well as the other AV123 models is close to the GR Research N series speakers, but has a somewhat softer quality and is not quite as detailed on the high end as the Neo 3 PDR tweeter, but close.
I enjoy building these speakers as well as other GR Research speakers from parts kits for myself and others. If you are interested in a pair of X-LS Encores or X-CS Encores but don't have the time or tools necessaary to build them yourself, I would be glad to quote a price to build them for you. Just send me
a PM.
Ron
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Looks like this is an older thread, but thought I'd check anyway to see if the kits are still available. If so, I'll also need suggestions on enclosures. My carpentry skills are very limited, as are the tools I have access to. However, I have a neighbor that can probably help in that area.
Thanks!!!
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Looks like this is an older thread, but thought I'd check anyway to see if the kits are still available. If so, I'll also need suggestions on enclosures. My carpentry skills are very limited, as are the tools I have access to. However, I have a neighbor that can probably help in that area.
Thanks!!!
Welcome to AC.
There are tons of these kits still available.
Some cabinets are available for X-LS and X-LS Encore.
There are guys here that can build cabinets for you as well.
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Danny
If I purchased a X-MTM kit and then later decided to build 'only' a
pair of X-CS ...would that be Ok? Or is the crossover design different
between the X-MTM and the X-CS? Thanks
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Danny
If I purchased a X-MTM kit and then later decided to build 'only' a
pair of X-CS ...would that be Ok? Or is the crossover design different
between the X-MTM and the X-CS? Thanks
Those two are the same speaker. Just the box design is different.
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I will soon be ordering 3 X-CS Encore kits for the L/C/R channels of a
DIY'ish 5.1 X-Series home theater. A couple of questions about the X-CS
Encore enclosure plans please...
The cut-out dimensions for the Encore tweeter and the mid-bass driver are
the exactly the same as those in the X-Omni plans. Does the X-CS Encore use
the same drivers? ...wondering because then I can use the X-Omni drivers to
test fit the baffle cut-outs for the X-CS Encores until I order the kits.
I understand that the X-CS Encore was designed to be used as a center channel.
If using them as L/R mains, does the Encore tweeter need to be rotated 90 degrees
(ie. the + & - terminals toward the bottom mid-bass driver)?
"Center the binding post cup in the center of the back panel
The are no cut-out measurements for this in the X-CS plans ...does the X-CS
Encore use the same binding post cup as the X-Omni?
Thanks
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The cut-out dimensions for the Encore tweeter and the mid-bass driver are
the exactly the same as those in the X-Omni plans. Does the X-CS Encore use
the same drivers?
The tweeter is the same and the woofer frames are the same. Different woofers though.
...wondering because then I can use the X-Omni drivers to
test fit the baffle cut-outs for the X-CS Encores until I order the kits.
Yes you can use them to size the holes.
I understand that the X-CS Encore was designed to be used as a center channel.
If using them as L/R mains, does the Encore tweeter need to be rotated 90 degrees
(ie. the + & - terminals toward the bottom mid-bass driver)?
It is a dome tweeter with four bolt pattern. It is the same every way that you turn it.
"Center the binding post cup in the center of the back panel
The are no cut-out measurements for this in the X-CS plans ...does the X-CS
Encore use the same binding post cup as the X-Omni?
It is the same binding posts that all of the series kits share.
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Hi Danny,
So I gathered from this thread that the X-LS Encore needs 0.5 cu ft. sealed, and the A/V-1 would need only about 0.25 cu ft. sealed. Can you tell me where the bass would start rolling off for these in sealed cabinets? Which performs better in a sealed box?
Also, I checked out the measurements of the X-LS (Ninja upgraded) in the link that you posted:
http://www.stereomojo.com/Small%20Speaker%20Shootout%202007/StereomojoSmallSpekerShootout2007MeasurementsPart2.htm
It looks like the vertical dispersion of the X-LS is very good out to 30 degrees. Would it be suitable to use this speaker on its side as a center channel? The X-CS is just too darn big.
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The X-LS will have better low end extension in a sealed box. The A/V-1 really needs a ported box.
The X-LS could be used on its side if needed.
You might check the size of the A/V-3S. It might work well for you. http://gr-research.com/av-3s.aspx
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The X-LS will have better low end extension in a sealed box. The A/V-1 really needs a ported box.
The X-LS could be used on its side if needed.
You might check the size of the A/V-3S. It might work well for you. http://gr-research.com/av-3s.aspx
Thanks Danny.
Rough idea on the F3 for a sealed X-LS Encore?
Do you think the A/V-3S would match well sonically?
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Rough idea on the F3 for a sealed X-LS Encore?
By the numbers mid 70's. In room average is mid to low 60's.
Do you think the A/V-3S would match well sonically?
Yes, real well.
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Danny,
Would you mind posting a link to the cabinet plans for the small floor standing X-SLS cabinets?
Thanks,
Ron
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Danny,
Would you mind posting a link to the cabinet plans for the small floor standing X-SLS cabinets?
Thanks,
Ron
Encore version: http://gr-research.com/pdf/X-SLS%20box.pdf
Classic version: http://gr-research.com/pdf/X-SLS%20Classic.pdf
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Thanks Danny for posting the X-SLS Encore and Classic cabinet drawings. !
Ron
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OK Danny, another question...
Would these knockdown cabinets work OK for the X-SLS with just a little modding to hit the right internal volume?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=300-7066
I know they're a little short, but that could be solved with a simple riser of some sort.
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OK Danny, another question...
Would these knockdown cabinets work OK for the X-SLS with just a little modding to hit the right internal volume?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=300-7066
I know they're a little short, but that could be solved with a simple riser of some sort.
They are a little on the thin side and the woofer frames will be right out to the edge, but I think those could be made to work.
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Good day! I'm guessing that not too much has changed in the last two months and you still have some XL-S Encores available? I plan on using these in a sort of Hi-Fi "boombox" that I'm building, and I'm wondering if I needed to add some baffle step correction to the crossover if I were mounting these next to each other with a additional 3 1/4" surface between the two cabinets (which is for the battery, amp bluetooth receiver, those sorts of things)?
Thanks!
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Good day! I'm guessing that not too much has changed in the last two months and you still have some XL-S Encores available? I plan on using these in a sort of Hi-Fi "boombox" that I'm building, and I'm wondering if I needed to add some baffle step correction to the crossover if I were mounting these next to each other with a additional 3 1/4" surface between the two cabinets (which is for the battery, amp bluetooth receiver, those sorts of things)?
Thanks!
There are plenty of these left.
No change will be needed to the crossovers.
I would advise trying not to add too much additional surface area around the tweeters.
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The X-LS Classic kit and X-SLS Classic kit can now be ordered on line: http://gr-research.com/x-lsclassickit.aspx
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What's the best way to purchase the XLS-Encores at this point? Is there a way to order them online, or should I send you an email?
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What's the best way to purchase the XLS-Encores at this point? Is there a way to order them online, or should I send you an email?
Just shoot me an e-mail or give me a call.
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Hey Danny, out of curiosity, what is the internal volume of the X-CS Encore cabinet?
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Hey Danny, out of curiosity, what is the internal volume of the X-CS Encore cabinet?
It's about a cubic foot.
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Danny ...good morning :)
Question regarding the X-series kits and the preinstalled 'factory' gaskets
that come on all the woofers, tweeters and binding cups. Is that gasket
sufficient to form an air tight seal to an enclosure? I was thinking maybe
a bead of silcone sealant between the gasket and the enclosure might be
of benefit ...to be applied only after all testing of the speaker is completed
and as part of the final assembly ...Opinions please?
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Danny ...good morning :)
Question regarding the X-series kits and the preinstalled 'factory' gaskets
that come on all the woofers, tweeters and binding cups. Is that gasket
sufficient to form an air tight seal to an enclosure? I was thinking maybe
a bead of silcone sealant between the gasket and the enclosure might be
of benefit ...to be applied only after all testing of the speaker is completed
and as part of the final assembly ...Opinions please?
The gaskets seal just fine. If you add Silicone then you'll be gluing them in and you might not be able to get them back out if needed.
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Hi,
This is my first post here. I am interested in the X-Statik speaker kit on sale. Is this kit still available? Where can I find the plan of building it?
Many thanks
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Hi,
This is my first post here. I am interested in the X-Statik speaker kit on sale. Is this kit still available? Where can I find the plan of building it?
Many thanks
Welcome to AC.
There are tons of them still available.
Cabinet plans can be seen here: http://gr-research.com/pdf/X-Statik%20box.pdf
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Hi Danny,
Thanks for the cabinet plan.
I will pm you.
Thanks,
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I am back again, this time to tell you all that I just finished making a set of AV1-RS surround speakers from GR-Research and with Danny’s guidance and patience.
Ever since I finished the center Channel I knew I wanted a pair of surround speakers and while researching the options available, the pros and cons of their offerings; well, they failed to convinced me; specially the Bipole, Dipole, Quadpole, Omnipole, whatever dispersion technics they use and the real estate some of them required. So, when I ordered the X-CS I became aware of the AV1-RS and kept those in my mind, the reflected sound idea got me, and while building the center channels, I was thinking about placement in my current room setting and because of my unusual situation, I decided that the best place will be to hang them on the ceiling. I ordered the set and began construction, everything went smooth and the only thing I did different was to calculate the sides and cut them to their respective size and use biscuits throughout to help align and hold everything during assembly. Again, I used templates for all the driver openings.
Unlike the X-CS, I decided to go with standard paper-backed veneer and French polishing; both are first time for me, but all went fine and had no major problems. Of course, I debated the idea of which glue to use for the veneer and at the end I went with contact cement….for a first time the recommendations are to use an iron and dry glue, but it did not convinced me, the glue that holds the paper-backed veneer is water-based.
I have pictured in my mind that trimming the excess veneer was probably the hardest part, but it was not so….the way I approached this task was with 120-grit sand paper starting in a 45 degree and angling progressively to meet and match the other edge, then switched to 220-grit for the final touch up; it worked out alright. The only place I use a router with specialized bits was for the connector, tweeter and woofer openings.
I did seal the inside joints with a continuous bead of silicone and soaked the internal faces with a coat of boiled linseed oil for moisture protection and then assembled each speaker with a handful of pillow stuffing. The crossover is located in the bottom and attached with brass screws to avoid problems with the inductors. I did not have any issues putting them together, except that I was a bit generous with the wiring lengths and ended up buying more from Danny.
Unless I missed something on the forum, I do not think I have seen any member mounting these on the ceiling. Here I had a bit of challenge as well; I did not want to deviate from Danny’s 45 degree design for hang them on the wall. So, while I was working on them, my head was also thinking in a way to hold them flushed to the ceiling using the same components. I thought maybe in the future I may have space and side walls and I would like to have the option to hang them there without further modifications. My solution was to slide the speakers just as they were to hang on the wall, but from the sides and ½” or so from the edge of the side that faces the ceiling, drilled an 1/8” hole thru the side wall of the speaker and ¾” into the part that attaches to the wall; once the speakers are fully in place, I inserted a #10 nail in each of these 1/8” holes to secure everything the speakers in place, so far it is been working fine.
As far as how it sounds? Well, let me tell you that most comments you have read here in the forum and others are so true, sorry, I do not have the technical verbiage to transmit my impressions, but in short I will say that these sound ESPECTACULAR!! And I am still playing around with my pre/pro settings. They have added a sort of 3-D effect to my whole set up and often times I forget they are there; I would probably ignore them had I opted to paint them the color of the ceiling. I am in a 5.1 set up due to the constraints of my room and honestly, that is just enough for me.
I idealized a more enveloping, diffused sound, concentrating more in what sounds better in my situation and in my room, a sound that is coming from all over the place; ignoring technicalities or room acoustics, positioning, imaging, etc. I think I found that and more with the AV1-RS speakers; knowing that not all speakers and their respective technologies are perfect, the selection of the AV1-RS is a very good compromise for my ears and my situation.
Interestingly, I been listening to the same content, mostly music; the X-CS brought detail to live, but these baby speakers managed to extract even more detail and I now hear new sounds, and for the few times, my wife agrees with me on this fact. On and all, thanks Danny for a great design not only for the sound they produce, but for making them so compact and wall friendly for those who do not have the space to accommodate other type of surround speakers; this fits like a glove in my place.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=88950)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=88951)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=88952)
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Those are really sharp. What type of veneer, stain and shellack did you use? Also, how many polishing sessions and rounds per session did you use?
Mike
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Beautiful wood and finishing. Hey, I thought the American flag was supposed to never touch the ground? Oh wait, that's not the ground, that's the floor!
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Those are really sharp. What type of veneer, stain and shellack did you use? Also, how many polishing sessions and rounds per session did you use?
Mike
Thank you for your comments Mike. I went with paper-backed American walnut and garnet shellac. I believe I put 8 sessions sanding progressively from 400 to 1200 (wet with oil) every 2 sessions and finished with clear wax
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Thank you for your comments Mike. I went with paper-backed American walnut and garnet shellac. I believe I put 8 sessions sanding progressively from 400 to 1200 (wet with oil) every 2 sessions and finished with clear wax
It looks like the American flag, but it is an old twin bed sheet with stars all over. The real thing is nicely folded and comes to service on major holidays.
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Beautiful wood and finishing. Hey, I thought the American flag was supposed to never touch the ground? Oh wait, that's not the ground, that's the floor!
Glad you like the looks and the finish. It looks like the American flag, but it is an old twin bed sheet with stars all over. The real thing is nicely folded and comes to service on major holidays.
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Those are really sharp. What type of veneer, stain and shellack did you use? Also, how many polishing sessions and rounds per session did you use?
Mike
Forgot to tell you, I did not use any stains
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I'm going to order some damping material for use in lining the
X-series enclosures that are almost completed. Due to costs, I
won't be using NoRez. I would rather not use the vinyl tile method.
Thinking of just using a combination of linning with hard/dense felt
and then stuffing with polyfill.
How thick of a hard/dense felt would you reccomend Danny?
(ex. 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", ect...)
Thanks.
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Hard dense felt really doesn't do much for resonance control. It just absorbs standing waves much like polyfill or fiberglass.
The industrial vinyl floor tiles are only about 79 cents a square and pretty effective for not much money. I'd go with that if funds are tight.
And for absorption I actually prefer fiberglass.
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Danny---Is fiberglass preferable because it is more uniform (in regards to frequencies) in it's absorption than polyfill? Should the foil backing sheet of the fiberglass be remove before attachment to the interior walls?
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Danny---Is fiberglass preferable because it is more uniform (in regards to frequencies) in it's absorption than polyfill? Should the foil backing sheet of the fiberglass be remove before attachment to the interior walls?
I think it sounds better.
I have not used any that had a foil backing before. Fiberglass duct board has a foil backing, but that is a different type of product. Some have a paper backing on one side. It is easily pealed away though.
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Oh right, paper, not foil. Thanks.
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"The industrial vinyl floor tiles are only about 79 cents a square and
pretty effective for not much money."
Do y'all use the peel 'n stick type of vinyl tile, or do you use bare tile and
some other type of adhesive ...what kind of adhesive please?
''And for absorption I actually prefer fiberglass."
Which fiberglass product do you recommend? Does it make a difference
providing that the fiberglass is of a particular 'R' value, or whatever? As
an example; would Owens Corning EcoTouch Unfaced (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Corning-EcoTouch-Unfaced-2-in-x-16-in-x-48-in-R-6-7-Multi-Purpose-Continuous-Roll-Insulation-A85P/100320315?N=bay7#.Uovnfb34uCk)be appropriate?
Thank you
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"The industrial vinyl floor tiles are only about 79 cents a square and
pretty effective for not much money."
Do y'all use the peel 'n stick type of vinyl tile, or do you use bare tile and
some other type of adhesive ...what kind of adhesive please?
''And for absorption I actually prefer fiberglass."
Which fiberglass product do you recommend? Does it make a difference
providing that the fiberglass is of a particular 'R' value, or whatever? As
an example; would Owens Corning EcoTouch Unfaced (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Corning-EcoTouch-Unfaced-2-in-x-16-in-x-48-in-R-6-7-Multi-Purpose-Continuous-Roll-Insulation-A85P/100320315?N=bay7#.Uovnfb34uCk)be appropriate?
Thank you
I use the industrial tiles that have no adhesive. But if they make some with adhesive than all the better. Or at least that makes it easy.
The R rating in fiberglass is in regards to how thick it is. Since you will likely be pulling it apart anyway then it really doesn't matter.
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The tiles that have adhesive (peel-and-stick) are low-mass vinyl, about 1/16" thick, and pretty flexible. The tiles you want to use are the Commercial Composite tiles, which are not peel-and-stick, are about 1/8" thick, and not flexible. A 12 X 12 square weighs about a-pound-and-a-half, a box of thirty weighing 45 lbs! You can use contact cement to attach them to the interior walls of your cabinets. I found a bunch of them at Lowe's last spring, clearance priced at twelve cents apiece, I believe it was. I bought 'em all! I've seen them since regularly priced at about eighty cents each, both at Lowe's and Home Depot. The peel-and-stick vinyl tiles are soft, and a box cutter blade will go right through them. The composites are kind of brittle, so to get them to size, you score them with a blade, set the tile down on your work surface with the score line right over an edge, and snap it in two with the heel of your hand.
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The tiles that have adhesive (peel-and-stick) are low-mass vinyl, about 1/16" thick, and pretty flexible. The tiles you want to use are the Commercial Composite tiles, which are not peel-and-stick, are about 1/8" thick, and not flexible. A 12 X 12 square weighs about a-pound-and-a-half, a box of thirty weighing 45 lbs! You can use contact cement to attach them to the interior walls of your cabinets. I found a bunch of them at Lowe's last spring, clearance priced at twelve cents apiece, I believe it was. I bought 'em all! I've seen them since regularly priced at about eighty cents each, both at Lowe's and Home Depot. The peel-and-stick vinyl tiles are soft, and a box cutter blade will go right through them. The composites are kind of brittle, so to get them to size, you score them with a blade, set the tile down on your work surface with the score line right over an edge, and snap it in two with the heel of your hand.
Yep, that's the good stuff.
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I can understand how the dense vinyl tiles would help with resonance
control ...but doesn't it color the sound from the speaker? Wouldn't
the sound of a vinyl lined enclosure versus wood be akin to the sound
a polypropylene speaker cone produces versus a paper one?
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I can understand how the dense vinyl tiles would help with resonance
control ...but doesn't it color the sound from the speaker? Wouldn't
the sound of a vinyl lined enclosure versus wood be akin to the sound
a polypropylene speaker cone produces versus a paper one?
No, it does not color the sound. It takes away coloration added by the resonances of the cabinet panels.
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I still have a couple of the MWF15 subwoofers I bought from you do you have the ported box plan from those?
THANKS!
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I still have a couple of the MWF15 subwoofers I bought from you do you have the ported box plan from those?
THANKS!
I never had box plans for those woofers. Mark Seaton came up with that design.
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Ordered a set of X-LS Encores today. Starting on the boxes tonight and hope to get the parts by Friday to put them together over the weekend. Really excited about this and can't wait. May start a build thread here on this forum.
I ordered these without the Sonicap upgrades. Mostly because of funds. However, I have recently been recapping older speakers using Sonicaps and the difference is incredible in the tweeter circuits. Detail, dynamics, and clarity go off the charts. These will be used as monitors for my computer setup coupled with a DIY sub (Tangband 8") and I will be in a position to really hear the difference with the Sonicap upgrade as I listen to my computer setup everyday.
Trying to decide if I should make the 0.5cu ft. boxes sealed or port them per the plans and just plug the ports if need be. If I were to go sealed, what is the optimum box volume in Cu Ft. to get a good bass alignment?
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Trying to decide if I should make the 0.5cu ft. boxes sealed or port them per the plans and just plug the ports if need be. If I were to go sealed, what is the optimum box volume in Cu Ft. to get a good bass alignment?
Ok. Playing around in WinISD I am getting a 0.8cu ft box size for a Q of .69 sealed with the M165 driver. Is this correct or did I mess up entering the driver parameters? ( I have done that before in this program.)
If this is correct... Can I modify the box size, keeping the same baffle width and driver spacing from the top of course, while making it somewhat taller and deeper to reach the target size?
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I researched DIY kits pretty heavily for a week now. Just ordered an mtm kit from Danny today. My first. THANKS Danny for the prompt replies! I can't wait! Anyway, just fyi, the peel and stick floor tiles may come loose. They need to be applied with LOTS of pressure to stay. Hard once the cabinet is assembled. They do make thicker vinyl tiles these days, which are easily scored and cut. Around 3/8 thick. Recommend applying with glue/construction adhesive/etc. Avoid peel and stick if possible. (that, is in my arena of experience) As I like things SOLID, I'm considering cabinets that have a layer of cement board inside. Cement board (like for ceramic tile installation) is available in 1/4 to 1/2 thicknesses. PL400 subfloor adhesive is AWESOME stuff. Bonds to almost anything. Hardens HARD. Like concrete. And will bond cement board, or almost anything, to wood. I don't even have a plan for the cabinets yet, but I think either this set, or my next more "extreme effort" set, will be wood over cement board. ( or, from a construction standpoint, cabinets constructed with the ID's 1/2 inch bigger than spec, and cement board cut and glued to the interior) 1/2 or 3/4 inch wood solidly bonded to 1/2 inch cement board will make for solid! As for damping, I'm no expert. But my gut tells me that "heavy, somewhat sluggish but compliant" is what's needed.
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All this hand wringing will most likely be moot.
Planning to add a miniDSP 2x4 out of my soundcard which will split the outputs to my sub and satellites. http://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-2x4
Right now the stereo speakers are running full range and the sub is rolled off using it's plate amp. With the miniDSP I can crossover the sats and sub at say 80hz and have EQ and even perform measurements using their calibrated mic. Wonderful unit!
With these capabilities the bass alignment would not be extremely critical correct? I will most likely build these 0.5cf ported as per the plans and if needed, plug the ports with foam.
Sorry for getting overly analytical about a $150 speaker kit.
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Ok. Playing around in WinISD I am getting a 0.8cu ft box size for a Q of .69 sealed with the M165 driver. Is this correct or did I mess up entering the driver parameters? ( I have done that before in this program.)
If this is correct... Can I modify the box size, keeping the same baffle width and driver spacing from the top of course, while making it somewhat taller and deeper to reach the target size?
A .528 cubic foot box is the optimal sealed box volume.
You can add a little depth or height, just don't reduce depth to add height. You want to avoid a square shape.
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All this hand wringing will most likely be moot.
Planning to add a miniDSP 2x4 out of my soundcard which will split the outputs to my sub and satellites. http://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-2x4
Right now the stereo speakers are running full range and the sub is rolled off using it's plate amp. With the miniDSP I can crossover the sats and sub at say 80hz and have EQ and even perform measurements using their calibrated mic. Wonderful unit!
With these capabilities the bass alignment would not be extremely critical correct? I will most likely build these 0.5cf ported as per the plans and if needed, plug the ports with foam.
Sorry for getting overly analytical about a $150 speaker kit.
Actually the use of a miniDSp will unnecessarily degrade the signal and collapse the sound stage. I know, it looks like a fun toy. But the D/A converter is about equal to a $49 CD player from Walmart. They do not sound good.
Allow the speakers to play full range then naturally roll in the sub. To cross in the mid 60's you'll need to set the dial on your sub to about 50Hz or so. Keep in mind that your crossover point will be where they are each 6db down. And the lower the crossover point the easier it is to integrate. So if the X-LS is ported then you can cross to the sub in the low 50's, and blend even smoother.
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Actually the use of a miniDSp will unnecessarily degrade the signal and collapse the sound stage. I know, it looks like a fun toy. But the D/A converter is about equal to a $49 CD player from Walmart. They do not sound good.
Allow the speakers to play full range then naturally roll in the sub. To cross in the mid 60's you'll need to set the dial on your sub to about 50Hz or so. Keep in mind that your crossover point will be where they are each 6db down. And the lower the crossover point the easier it is to integrate. So if the X-LS is ported then you can cross to the sub in the low 50's, and blend even smoother.
Thank you very much. Makes sense.
I googled "minidsp poor d/a converter" and came up with a bunch of links bashing this unit. Apparently it clips easily as well.
Funny, the company must be paying some serious money to the search engines because just "miniDSP" plugged into Bing or Google brings glowing accolades.
A shame really. Something like the miniDSP would be very useful in many applications. I was even considering the bigger units to go between my Home Theater preamp and amps and utilizing REW.
EDIT: Deleted rant about shipping charges. Didn't realize this company is located in China.
Anyway... Thanks for saving me some cash!
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Thank you very much. Makes sense.
I googled "minidsp poor d/a converter" and came up with a bunch of links bashing this unit. Apparently it clips easily as well.
Funny, the company must be paying some serious money to the search engines because just "miniDSP" plugged into Bing or Google brings glowing accolades.
EDIT: Deleted rant about shipping charges. Didn't realize this company is located in China.
Anyway... Thanks for saving me some cash!
There is a reason why they don't cost anything.
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Thinking of going with these cabinets. Perhaps putting the ports on the front.
I like the added height.
http://www.parts-express.com/knock-down-mdf-056-cu-ft-bookshelf-speaker-cabinet--300-7064
Have a problem with cutting MDF here in the basement. Think I am allergic to it ( Rash) and the last time one of my cat's was losing hair afterward. Nasty stuff. I can do a quick cutout of the driver holes in the garage if need be.
Or. Buy a pair of these...
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-mb50-blank-baffle-for-050-cu-ft-cabinet--302-729
Make the cabs from 3/4" Baltic Birch and also have removable baffles.
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Thinking of going with these cabinets. Perhaps putting the ports on the front.
I like the added height.
http://www.parts-express.com/knock-down-mdf-056-cu-ft-bookshelf-speaker-cabinet--300-7064
Have a problem with cutting MDF here in the basement. Think I am allergic to it ( Rash) and the last time one of my cat's was losing hair afterward. Nasty stuff. I can do a quick cutout of the driver holes in the garage if need be.
Or. Buy a pair of these...
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-mb50-blank-baffle-for-050-cu-ft-cabinet--302-729
Make the cabs from 3/4" Baltic Birch and also have removable baffles.
Not enough room on those for a front port. Put it in the back and those will work out.
I prefer MDF myself. It is slightly denser and easier to work with. And it is less expensive too.
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Thanks for the reply!
Not enough room on those for a front port. Put it in the back and those will work out.
Question about the ports supplied with the kit. Do they need cut down or use as is?
I prefer MDF myself. It is slightly denser and easier to work with. And it is less expensive too.
I do as well but cannot tolerate the dust. Usually cut it outside but thats not going to happen for awhile with this weather.
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Thanks for the reply!
Question about the ports supplied with the kit. Do they need cut down or use as is?
I do as well but cannot tolerate the dust. Usually cut it outside but thats not going to happen for awhile with this weather.
The supplied ports need a 2" through hole cut for them, and they are ready to install.
What? It's suppose to hit 71 today: http://www.newschannel6now.com/link/429710/skywarn-6-seven-day-forecast
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Hey vlad335,
Maybe this will help: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=123677.0
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What? It's suppose to hit 71 today: http://www.newschannel6now.com/link/429710/skywarn-6-seven-day-forecast
Man thats just cruel! lol.
Weird. It was in the 30's today and the sun was out. What is sad is it actually felt warm.
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Hey vlad335,
Maybe this will help: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=123677.0
Explored the above option and was going to pull the trigger but thought, "I have a full woodshop in my basement and all the tools. Even have all the MDF needed from scattered pieces."
"Screw it. Stop being a pus!"
Plunged down into the cold and I am now gluing up. Saved $115 and someone else without the wherewithal can get one of the 4 flat packs remaining. ( Itching like hell right now. :duh: )
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Cabs are coming along... Danny, another question.
Plan is to upgrade with Sonicaps down the road. So with soldering the wires to the crossover board, terminal cups and drivers how does one remove the boards to replace the caps later? Put in extra wire and clip them to rejoin together later?
Is there a type of connector that wouldn't degrade the sound horribly that I can solder into the crossover boards to attach the wire?
Having a brain fart. Thanks for any help.
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Cabs are coming along... Danny, another question.
Plan is to upgrade with Sonicaps down the road. So with soldering the wires to the crossover board, terminal cups and drivers how does one remove the boards to replace the caps later? Put in extra wire and clip them to rejoin together later?
Just un-solder the wiring from the binding post cup and drivers. Then remove the crossover.
Is there a type of connector that wouldn't degrade the sound horribly that I can solder into the crossover boards to attach the wire?
No. And it just takes a few seconds to un-solder or solder wiring to the crossover board. It really can't be any easier.
Having a brain fart. Thanks for any help.
No problem.
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Hi Danny, I'm sorry for the total noob assault here, but am hoping you can help me out. I'm about to build my 1st set of speakers to replace a pair of passive event 20/20's. These new speakers will be used for music listening solely. They are going to go in the family room which is roughly 20x13 but will be pointing into the open kitchen and just generally used for filling the house with music at any given time. With that back ground for you and me knowing that they cant sound good every where. Let's just talk about when I'm actually listening to them and just enjoying them from say, 10' away.
Now the questions because I know so little and just need to make a decision. I am trying to decide between the x-mtm and the fusion 8 from jeff bagby. http://www.diysoundgroup.com/review/product/list/id/348/category/81/
I have no way of listening to either speaker and don't even really know what I like so it may be impossible to answer. I can tell you I don't like my event's because I think they sound muddy.
How do these speakers compare sound wise? You don't have to get in-depth as it would be over my head anyway.
Will the x-mtm have a similar bass response to the fusion since it has 2 woofers?
I tried looking for numbers that would help me figure this stuff out but all I could find for the x-mtm was graphs and the sensitivity of 90db
The fusion has a db sensitivity of 94 and a FR of 65hz - 20khz
Looking at the numbers, which I don't understand anyway. I think the fusion 8 may just be a better speaker? And for the price difference it isn't even a fair comparison. I'm just looking for a brief description of what you think may suit my needs better.
I really appreciate the help and your time.
Mike
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Hi Danny, I'm sorry for the total noob assault here, but am hoping you can help me out. I'm about to build my 1st set of speakers to replace a pair of passive event 20/20's. These new speakers will be used for music listening solely. They are going to go in the family room which is roughly 20x13 but will be pointing into the open kitchen and just generally used for filling the house with music at any given time. With that back ground for you and me knowing that they cant sound good every where. Let's just talk about when I'm actually listening to them and just enjoying them from say, 10' away.
Now the questions because I know so little and just need to make a decision. I am trying to decide between the x-mtm and the fusion 8 from jeff bagby. http://www.diysoundgroup.com/review/product/list/id/348/category/81/
I have no way of listening to either speaker and don't even really know what I like so it may be impossible to answer. I can tell you I don't like my event's because I think they sound muddy.
How do these speakers compare sound wise? You don't have to get in-depth as it would be over my head anyway.
Will the x-mtm have a similar bass response to the fusion since it has 2 woofers?
I tried looking for numbers that would help me figure this stuff out but all I could find for the x-mtm was graphs and the sensitivity of 90db
The fusion has a db sensitivity of 94 and a FR of 65hz - 20khz
Looking at the numbers, which I don't understand anyway. I think the fusion 8 may just be a better speaker? And for the price difference it isn't even a fair comparison. I'm just looking for a brief description of what you think may suit my needs better.
I really appreciate the help and your time.
Mike
Those two speakers aren't really much of a comparison really. I like the designer of the Fusion. Jeff Bagby is a good guy, and he does a good job with his design work. But those speaker are really different.
The Fusion has high sensitivity and it trades off low frequency extension to get that. It will play to a -3db of 65Hz while the X-MTM Encore will play down to a -3db of 40Hz. So the X-MTM will have a much stronger foundation, and better bass extension.
Comparing the woofers is no comparison either. The Fusion woofer is not in the same class as the woofers used in the X-MTM, and for a number of reasons. And the dual woofer design of the X-MTM gives it even further advantages.
The Fusion uses a compression driver for a tweeter and not a high end tweeter. The X-MTM Encore uses one of the best dome tweeters on the market. No real comparison there either.
Crossover parts quality is very different too. The Fusion uses an iron core inductor on the woofer (not good) while the X-MTM uses all air core inductors. That makes a considerable quality difference. The Fusion uses sand caste resistor (cheap and not good) while the X-MTM uses a higher quality wire wound resistor. The X-MTM Encore even has Sonicap Gen.2 by-pass caps on the tweeter circuit further detail levels and resolution to another level.
These really just aren't in the same class. Your choice really depends on what you are looking for. If your goals are a speaker that will easily play loud then go for the Fusion. If you are looking for more of an audiophile type speaker then the X-MTM excels in that area.
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Dr.Geddes might beg to differ on using compression drivers in "audiophile" rated speakers.
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What the heck does he know anyways...
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Sounds like apples and oranges - each has it's advantages and disadvantages. There are trade offs. You have to decide which is more important to you. Chances of hearing both prior to decision/purchase are slim and none.
Efficiency CAN lead to greater sense of dynamics, but the Fusion has a big drop off in bottom end response.
Decisions, decisions. :scratch:
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Thanks all. I don't recall seeing what was needed to drive these? I was thinking of using a classd'audio amp along with a buffer.
http://classdaudio.com/amplifier-kits/cda-254l-kit.html
Ideal or not?
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Thanks all. I don't recall seeing what was needed to drive these? I was thinking of using a classd'audio amp along with a buffer.
http://classdaudio.com/amplifier-kits/cda-254l-kit.html
Ideal or not?
That will drive them easily.
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Danny - Do you have a frequency response curve for the X-CS Encore that you could post? Also, would two (2) sheets of No-Rez be enough to do the interior walls of two (2) cabinets? How much for the Sonicap / Mills upgrade option?
Ron
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Danny - Do you have a frequency response curve for the X-CS Encore that you could post? Also, would two (2) sheets of No-Rez be enough to do the interior walls of two (2) cabinets? How much for the Sonicap / Mills upgrade option?
Ron
I don't have a frequency response on the server right now, but can load one up later. It has a nice smooth response just like the other models.
2 Sheets of No Rez will leave you some material left over.
The Sonicaps are $77.5 per speaker.
Mills resistors are $9.80 per speaker.
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Thanks Danny. Appreciate your reply to my questions.
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I just heard a pair of the $109 speakers...well, to be honest, I cut out the wood on my cnc router. I was blown away by how good they sound. Do you still sell them?
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I just heard a pair of the $109 speakers...well, to be honest, I cut out the wood on my cnc router. I was blown away by how good they sound. Do you still sell them?
Yep. I have lots of them in stock.
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John - If you were blown away by how good the $109.00 X-LS Classics sound, you should hear the X-LS Encores. They cost only $40.00 a pair more and sound even better. A real bargain!
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I just heard a pair of the $109 speakers...well, to be honest, I cut out the wood on my cnc router. I was blown away by how good they sound. Do you still sell them?
John,
I just started "burning in" my Encores and all I'll can say is, WOW!. Consider the Sonicap and Mills Resistors upgrade as well as No-Rez and you won't be disappointed.
I'm going for the matching center channel next. - John
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Hi Danny
I recently finished lining the insides of the five X-CS enclosures being built
with VCT tile. After attaching the baffles I will be lining with either 1" thick,
reticulated, open pore foam or stuffing them with polyester fiberfill. I really
DO NOT want to mess around with fiberglass no matter how effective it is
...thanks.
Three questions please:
Would you consider reticulated, open pore polyurethane foam or
polyester fiberfill more effective in a sealed X-CS enclosure?
If using the foam (97% void space), should I opt for the 20 PPI
or 30 PPI (Pores Per Inch) variety?
If stuffing with polyester fiberfill, how much fiberfill (by weight)
should be equally distributed throughout each X-CS enclosure?
Thanks :)
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Lining the cabinet with a foam then adding some loose polyfill behind each woofer will be fine.
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Does anyone know when the drivers were manufactured for these X series kits, and what the life expectancy of them might be?
AV123 was selling them assembled back in the mid 2000's, so they could be 8 to 10 years old already.
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I have Dynaco A25 speaker with butyl rubber surrounds and paper cones woofers and silk dome tweeters made in the early '70s and still sounding good today. Over 40 years so far. The capacitors are all film style and no real wear mechanisms. The other parts are just as robust. You should be good for many decades to come.
EDIT: Forgot to mention I have two pairs of X-LS Classics from the early production run of piano gloss rosewood cabinets and still going strong since I received them.
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Does anyone know when the drivers were manufactured for these X series kits, and what the life expectancy of them might be?
AV123 was selling them assembled back in the mid 2000's, so they could be 8 to 10 years old already.
They are not that old. Most of it was manufactured in 2010. And they are still new in the box.
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I sent Ruben a message a while ago and still have not heard back from him. Does anyone have a different method to get in touch with him other than pm here?
Thanks
Jeff
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I sent Ruben a message a while ago and still have not heard back from him. Does anyone have a different method to get in touch with him other than pm here?
Thanks
Jeff
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=123675.0
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Hi Danny,
I'm looking for a 6 1/2" woofer MTM kit for my home theater build... one that would give me the ultimate compromise between high fidelity and bang-for-your-buck value. Any suggestions?
thanks in advance
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Hi Danny,
I'm looking for a 6 1/2" woofer MTM kit for my home theater build... one that would give me the ultimate compromise between high fidelity and bang-for-your-buck value. Any suggestions?
thanks in advance
X-CS and X-MTM kits. See first page.
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Hi Danny,
I'm looking for a 6 1/2" woofer MTM kit for my home theater build... one that would give me the ultimate compromise between high fidelity and bang-for-your-buck value. Any suggestions?
thanks in advance
From my experience, for the ultimate compromise and bang for the buck, go for the Encore models. X-CS Encore for a monitor or X-MTM Encore for a floor standing tower and stick with the stock kits.
But to seriously upgrade the high fidelity and still get a great bang for the buck upgrade the crossovers to Sonicaps, Mills resistors, Erse XQ inductors (point-to-point wire the crossover networks like with Danny's other kits), and Sonicap Gen II by-pass caps for both the tweeter and woofer circuits. To really max out the sound quality use Platinum by-pass caps in the tweeter circuit. Also, fully line the cabinets with NoRez.
Granted, the upgrades I've suggested cost more than the original kit but the resulting speakers are well worth it. Then again, you don't have to do all the upgrades. You can do as little or as much as you want or your budget will allow.
Mike
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Hi Danny,
I'm looking for a 6 1/2" woofer MTM kit for my home theater build... one that would give me the ultimate compromise between high fidelity and bang-for-your-buck value. Any suggestions?
thanks in advance
Here is a link to Mike's X-CS and X-MTM build: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=128392.0
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I'm looking for a 6 1/2" woofer MTM kit for my home theater build... one that would give me the ultimate compromise between high fidelity and bang-for-your-buck value. Any suggestions?
Welcome to Audio Circle. :thumb: Fully agree with Mike (Mlundy57). The best bang for the buck would be the Sonicap upgrade which will make a huge difference in SQ. The other upgrades would step up the SQ incrementally.
To really max out the sound quality use Platinum by-pass caps in the tweeter circuit.
That is not part of upgrade options that the GR Research site gives. Now where do we get it, the values et al! :scratch:
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Welcome to Audio Circle. :thumb: Fully agree with Mike (Mlundy57). The best bang for the buck would be the Sonicap upgrade which will make a huge difference in SQ. The other upgrades would step up the SQ incrementally.
That is not part of upgrade options that the GR Research site gives. Now where do we get it, the values et al! :scratch:
You are correct, they are not listed on the website. You can contact Danny directly to get the platinum caps. I put them in my N3-TL's and am very pleased with the performance. So much so I added platinum by-pass caps to the LGK Wedgie kit.
Mike
Mike
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I put them in my N3-TL's and am very pleased with the performance. So much so I added platinum by-pass caps to the LGK Wedgie kit.
Mike
I have used the Neo 3 both with and without the Platinum caps and know they do make a big difference with that twweter but I seem to remember a thread a while back where guys were discussing using the Platinum caps with the Peerless tweeter. and the X series kits in general. I'll have a look for the thread and link to it if I can find it. (EDIT: here is that link and I guess like most things, it is very subjective ,
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=115595.msg1209009#msg1209009 )
Did you ever end up trying the platinum caps withthe Peerless tweeter Mike ? Would be interesting to know your results if so.
Hydrovac, I know you said you were lookig for an MTM design using the 6.5" woofers but I wouldn't over look the AV3 TL's either. They are an MTM but use Danny's 5.25 M130 driver in an MTM design along with the GR tweeter. In the TL of the AV3/N3 they produce amazing bass, rich and clean down to 40hz if I remember correctly. I know a few guys who actually prefer the GR tweeter over the Peerless tweeter used in the Encore kits. I haven't heard the GR tweeter so I can't make any first hand comparison
I am not trying to steer you in any particualr directin, just pointing out it may be somethig worth discussing with Danny
-jay
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Considering adding some rear surrounds to my N3 TL-based system. The A/V 1RS's would seem to be very likely a good choice, but not wanting to miss out on one of these "Best deals ever", any thoughts on how a pair of the X-CS's, which are also sealed, would function if mounted high on a rear wall, facing toward the ceiling? The boxes could be built a little larger than, but similarly angled to the A/V 1RS's.
Pete
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What you are describing is exactly what the AV1-RS was designed for.
The X-CS is a big heavy speaker. My cabinet alone weighs 33 pounds, without the drivers. You really don't want to try wall mounting these. They are designed for front end duty, left and right mains and center channel.
Stick with the AV1-RS for surround duty.
Mike
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Considering adding some rear surrounds to my N3 TL-based system. The A/V 1RS's would seem to be very likely a good choice, but not wanting to miss out on one of these "Best deals ever", any thoughts on how a pair of the X-CS's, which are also sealed, would function if mounted high on a rear wall, facing toward the ceiling? The boxes could be built a little larger than, but similarly angled to the A/V 1RS's.
Pete
Wall and ceiling placements are very tricky. There is a huge gain from coupling with the wall and ceiling in the lower ranges, and then at a fixed distance there is a cancellation from the reflection being out of phase with the direct output. So all of that has to be taken into consideration. So the speaker has to be lean in the bottom end. There has to be a lot of driver overlap in the cancellation area to fill that in and it has to be really strong up top to compensate for the highs being attenuated by the reflections and be being off axis.
The A/V-1 RS does all of that and produces a very accurate in room response. No other speaker will do the same in that application.
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Thanks Mike and Danny. I am glad I asked the question and now understand, for multiple reasons, the A/V 1RS is the clear choice for my rear surrounds!
Pete
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Danny ...I'm getting close to finishing up the X-CS x 3 build. I still need to
solder the wires to the drivers and to the cross-over boards. You supplied a
winding of red and white wire that needs to be cut to into individual lengths.
What is the appropriate lengths to cut the wire(s) to?
Likewise, the black tube 'shrink-wrap' that will protect the connections also
needs to be cut into lengths. What is the correct length to cut that to please?
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Danny ...I'm getting close to finishing up the X-CS x 3 build. I still need to
solder the wires to the drivers and to the cross-over boards. You supplied a
winding of red and white wire that needs to be cut to into individual lengths.
What is the appropriate lengths to cut the wire(s) to?
Likewise, the black tube 'shrink-wrap' that will protect the connections also
needs to be cut into lengths. What is the correct length to cut that to please?
Set the crossover in the floor of the box and then measure from the board to each driver and from the board to the binding post cup.
The heat shrink can be cut into little 1" lengths or so.
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Regarding connecting the drivers to the X-CS Encore cross-over board:
There are two midwoofers and only one set of W+ / W- output leads on
the cross-over. Do both midwoofers have their leads soldered into the
single W+ / W- output holes on the cross-over? Or, is one midwoofer
connected directly to the cross-over and then the second midwoofer
wired in a parallel or series connection to the first midwoofer? Thanks.
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Regarding connecting the drivers to the X-CS Encore cross-over board:
There are two midwoofers and only one set of W+ / W- output leads on
the cross-over. Do both midwoofers have their leads soldered into the
single W+ / W- output holes on the cross-over? Or, is one midwoofer
connected directly to the cross-over and then the second midwoofer
wired in a parallel or series connection to the first midwoofer? Thanks.
Connect the + and - from the board to the closest woofer, then run a pair of wires from that woofer over to the other one so that the woofers are wired in parallel.
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Thanks Danny ...I'm glad I waited before cutting the speaker wire leads to length.
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The soldering wire supplied with the X-CS Encore kit, is it 'rosin core'
solder? ...or do I need to get some rosin soldering flux for a good join
of the wire leads to the cross-over and driver terminals?
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The soldering wire supplied with the X-CS Encore kit, is it 'rosin core'
solder? ...or do I need to get some rosin soldering flux for a good join
of the wire leads to the cross-over and driver terminals?
It's rosin core, no need for additional rosin.
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Ok, I've finished 3 of the 5 XC-S speakers ...for now.
I am happily listening to a pair as I type this. A build
thread posting with photos will follow soon :)
Two of the XC-S work perfectly ...one doesn't.
(There's always one joker in every group isn't there?)
The faulty one has tweeter output that seems just fine,
but no sound(s) at all from the midwoofers.
My thoughts are that it is either at the W+ or W- output
lead(s) connection at the crossover board or where the
lead(s) connect to the + / - tabs on the first midwoofer?
There is also the chance the crossover board itself may
have a faulty midwoofer circut?
Please advise on the best trouble shooting pathway to
follow.
...also, the +/- is not marked on the Encore tweeter. I took
the wider, larger tab to be the + one? Is that correct?
Thanks
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Ok, I've finished 3 of the 5 XC-S speakers ...for now.
I am happily listening to a pair as I type this. A build
thread posting with photos will follow soon :)
Two of the XC-S work perfectly ...one doesn't.
(There's always one joker in every group isn't there?)
The faulty one has tweeter output that seems just fine,
but no sound(s) at all from the midwoofers.
My thoughts are that it is either at the W+ or W- output
lead(s) connection at the crossover board or where the
lead(s) connect to the + / - tabs on the first midwoofer?
There is also the chance the crossover board itself may
have a faulty midwoofer circut?
Please advise on the best trouble shooting pathway to
follow.
...also, the +/- is not marked on the Encore tweeter. I took
the wider, larger tab to be the + one? Is that correct?
Thanks
You have an open connection somewhere my friend. You'll have to give it all a good look and see where it is off.
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(http://oscillation.webs.com/BTC.jpg)
...Ack! ...Ack! ...Ack!
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I just wanted to say Wooooo! Hooooo! :thumb:
I have been listening to a pair of the completed X-CSs for
the last several weeks ...and they just started to 'open up'
today. Very nice sounding. Their sound and price point/value
intergrates well with my other components.
I will be posting a 'build thread' soon as I am able to ...yeah,
there will be lots of photos too.
I will be ordering two more kits with the full upgrades from
Danny. For anyone that enjoys building cabinets by following
simple plans and can solder a little, the X-series kits are probably
the best speaker value on the Internet.
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I just wanted to say Wooooo! Hooooo! :thumb:
I have been listening to a pair of the completed X-CSs for
the last several weeks ...and they just started to 'open up'
today. Very nice sounding. Their sound and price point/value
intergrates well with my other components.
I will be posting a 'build thread' soon as I am able to ...yeah,
there will be lots of photos too.
I will be ordering two more kits with the full upgrades from
Danny. For anyone that enjoys building cabinets by following
simple plans and can solder a little, the X-series kits are probably
the best speaker value on the Internet.
I would agree with that wholeheartedly. I finally finished the three speaker set (L/C/R) of X-CS Encores I have been building for my stepdaughter. They have been breaking in for the past few days. I am amazed all over again at how great these speakers sound.
Mike
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(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss207/corndog642/Apartment%202015/7A03080B-C43A-4056-835B-E696B79AA94E_zpsl6d1jzyk.jpg)
Just wanted to throw this up to show the X-LS Encores mate perfectly with the dual open baffle servo subs. Due to the height of the subs I'm using IsoAcoustics ISO-L8R155 stands with a slight tilt downwards towards the listening position. This is an included option with the stands.
One of my musician friends came over recently to play his self-produced album. He considers my system to be a better reference than his studio monitors and even took notes for his mastering.
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(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss207/corndog642/Apartment%202015/7A03080B-C43A-4056-835B-E696B79AA94E_zpsl6d1jzyk.jpg)
Just wanted to throw this up to show the X-LS Encores mate perfectly with the dual open baffle servo subs. Due to the height of the subs I'm using IsoAcoustics ISO-L8R155 stands with a slight tilt downwards towards the listening position. This is an included option with the stands.
One of my musician friends came over recently to play his self-produced album. He considers my system to be a better reference than his studio monitors and even took notes for his mastering.
You run those with the tweeters on the bottom?
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You run those with the tweeters on the bottom?
Not originally, but I flipped them upside down to try something different. It was more about getting the tweeters closer to the height of my ears. I did this before adding the tilt and forgot to flip them back around. They still sound great so I didn't give it much more thought.
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It's actually a pretty amazing combo isn't it ?
I've done the same thing (- stands) myself and am always very pleased :thumb:
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Danny,
Do you have any more X-Statik/X-Voce/X-LS Encore Kits still available?? Finally going to be building out my basement and think these might be the ticket, if I can get some cabinets built for me as I'm no good! Haha!
Scott
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Danny,
Do you have any more X-Statik/X-Voce/X-LS Encore Kits still available?? Finally going to be building out my basement and think these might be the ticket, if I can get some cabinets built for me as I'm no good! Haha!
Scott
Lots of them.
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Lots of them.
Cool. Need to see if I can get someone to build me some cabinets...
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Cool. Need to see if I can get someone to build me some cabinets...
PM sent
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So I built 5 X-CS Encores, 3 with the standard crossovers and the
last 2 with the upgraded Sonicaps & Mills resistors parts. After a few
weeks of break-in and listening, I can honestly say there is a difference
in sound. The upgraded crossovers do increase the sound quality.
Well gosh darnit Mr Ritchie! This is all your fault! Now I have to order
the upgrades for the other 3 X-CS and the 2 X-Omnis I'm finishing up.
I don't appreciate having to disassemble 3 perfectly good speakers
and slinging more solder :green:
P.S. I am really enjoying these speakers in my home theater/music setup.
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So I built 5 X-CS Encores, 3 with the standard crossovers and the
last 2 with the upgraded Sonicaps & Mills resistors parts. After a few
weeks of break-in and listening, I can honestly say there is a difference
in sound. The upgraded crossovers do increase the sound quality.
Well gosh darnit Mr Ritchie! This is all your fault! Now I have to order
the upgrades for the other 3 X-CS and the 2 X-Omnis I'm finishing up.
I don't appreciate having to disassemble 3 perfectly good speakers
and slinging more solder :green:
P.S. I am really enjoying these speakers in my home theater/music setup.
Wait until you try the tube connectors. You'll be taking binding post out of everything. :green:
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And, if you want to take them even further, do a point to point wired network, upgrade the inductors ... I've been using the .022 uF pltiums for bypass caps on the cap in the high pass filter and a .1 uF Jupiter Copper o nthe low pass filter cap. Also, go for the no-rez if you didn't orignally do so.
I have a buddy who has ben demo'ing the last pair we built , he's been blowing people away with them ( X LS Encores).
I've got a couple more things to try on the next pair :wink:
The cost does go up... but when yo uo look at the cost of the speakers these will outperform, they are still a screaming deal
jay
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And, if you want to take them even further, do a point to point wired network, upgrade the inductors ... I've been using the .022 uF pltiums for bypass caps on the cap in the high pass filter and a .1 uF Jupiter Copper o nthe low pass filter cap. Also, go for the no-rez if you didn't orignally do so.
I have a buddy who has ben demo'ing the last pair we built , he's been blowing people away with them ( X LS Encores).
I've got a couple more things to try on the next pair :wink:
The cost does go up... but when yo uo look at the cost of the speakers these will outperform, they are still a screaming deal
jay
Point to point is how I’ve built all the Encore series crossovers. I didn’t always use Platinum bypass caps (sometimes I used Sonicap Gen II’s). I also used tube connectors. That includes the turquoise inlaid ambrosia maple X-CS Encores I took to LSAF in 2016.
Not too many people heard them but those that did were impressed.
Now Danny’s not the only one making more work for you :icon_twisted:
Mike
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Point to point wiring sounds very doable. In fact, replacing the existing crossovers in the other 3 X-CSs
and the 2 X-Omnis with completely new upgraded point to point crossovers will probably be easier than
trying to upgrade the existing crossovers.
I would like to throw any business Danny's way that I can as far as the pieces parts required. What
coils, caps and resistors would you folks recommend? For example what was the verdict on the new
breed of Jantzen coils that were being discussed a while back. I know that Danny prefers Sonicaps for
their neutrality and clarity, but what about the Mundorf silver/oils? Or the Jupiter Cu's. Are Mills resistors
the way to go or might Vishay/Deuland/Takman offer better sound? What combinations have you guys
found to really make the X-CS Encores and X-Omni Encore series sing? Thanks.
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Danny, Do you still have the x-omni kits? They aren't listed on your webpage.
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Danny, Do you still have the x-omni kits? They aren't listed on your webpage.
I didn't have many of the completed crossovers for that model. But I do have a completed pair in a dark Cherry type finish that are un-boxed. I need to do something with them. Let me know if you are interested and I'll make you a deal.
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Point to point wiring sounds very doable. In fact, replacing the existing crossovers in the other 3 X-CSs
and the 2 X-Omnis with completely new upgraded point to point crossovers will probably be easier than
trying to upgrade the existing crossovers.
I would like to throw any business Danny's way that I can as far as the pieces parts required. What
coils, caps and resistors would you folks recommend? For example what was the verdict on the new
breed of Jantzen coils that were being discussed a while back. I know that Danny prefers Sonicaps for
their neutrality and clarity, but what about the Mundorf silver/oils? Or the Jupiter Cu's. Are Mills resistors
the way to go or might Vishay/Deuland/Takman offer better sound? What combinations have you guys
found to really make the X-CS Encores and X-Omni Encore series sing? Thanks.
For my part, I liked the Clarity Cap MR's bypassed with Jupiter Copper foil/waxpaper capacitors and I preferred the Jantzen copper foil/waxpaper inductors.
If I could afford 10uf and 15uf sized Jupiters, I'd just get them and forget the Clarity Caps altogether. But alas, not in the budget....
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Point to point wiring sounds very doable. In fact, replacing the existing crossovers in the other 3 X-CSs
and the 2 X-Omnis with completely new upgraded point to point crossovers will probably be easier than
trying to upgrade the existing crossovers.
I would like to throw any business Danny's way that I can as far as the pieces parts required. What
coils, caps and resistors would you folks recommend? For example what was the verdict on the new
breed of Jantzen coils that were being discussed a while back. I know that Danny prefers Sonicaps for
their neutrality and clarity, but what about the Mundorf silver/oils? Or the Jupiter Cu's. Are Mills resistors
the way to go or might Vishay/Deuland/Takman offer better sound? What combinations have you guys
found to really make the X-CS Encores and X-Omni Encore series sing? Thanks.
The last few pairs, I've used teh Erse XO inductors that Danny supplies. The next pair we build out will use the Gortz Alpha Core Foil inductors (also available from Danny). I know there has been lots of talk regarding the new Jantzen wax / foil inductors and many have had good results with them. we've used the Jantzen's in a pair of NX-trme networks and they souind great but to say they are better than the Gortz alpha cores is hard ...... we did some direct compairions between a gortz and a jantzen on an Otic-MTm and there was little difference... to say one was better than the other would be a stretch. I'm sure results will vary.... .
For the caps, you're geting into some prety big values to be upgrading from the Sonicaps.... pretty expensive going "botiique" on these. Far better off using some very good bypass caps. I've tried the cross over stock bypass cap, the Sonicap GiII & Platinum, and the Jupiter Copper as bypass caps on the high pass filter cap, our preference here is the Platinums.
For the cap in the low pass filter, we've tried a Sonicap Gen II, a Jupiter Copper, and the German Vishey Roderstein . Will likely continue to use the Jupiter copper here but the SC GII and the ViR are both far less expensive and do a great job.
As mentioned above, use the tube connectors and no-rez :thumb:
HTH's
jay
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For my part, I liked the Clarity Cap MR's bypassed with Jupiter Copper foil/waxpaper capacitors and I preferred the Jantzen copper foil/waxpaper inductors.
If I could afford 10uf and 15uf sized Jupiters, I'd just get them and forget the Clarity Caps altogether. But alas, not in the budget....
In the NX-treme networks, we used the new Clarity CMR's (CSA's <-- low pass filer bundle). We bypassed the midrange bundle with a Jupiter Copper, the high low pass with Dueland Silver PIO with exellent results. Even the As soon as you move up to the MR/CMR line of Clarity, the price is signifigant compared to the Sonicap g1's which are very good when combined with a good bypass cap. zthey are also BIG and would take up a lot of space inside an monitor.
jay
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In the NX-treme networks, we used the new Clarity CMR's (CSA's <-- low pass filer bundle). We bypassed the midrange bundle with a Jupiter Copper, the high low pass with Dueland Silver PIO with exellent results. Even the As soon as you move up to the MR/CMR line of Clarity, the price is signifigant compared to the Sonicap g1's which are very good when combined with a good bypass cap. zthey are also BIG and would take up a lot of space inside an monitor.
jay
All very true! I went with the MR's because my speakers are the Super 7's and they show more difference between caps than a lot of other speakers. Like I said, if I could just get the big Jupiters I would :) But Jupiters are great bypass caps, especially on the mids. Using Dueland on the highs, hmm that's something I hadn't thought of, and might be even better than what I have.
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All very true! I went with the MR's because my speakers are the Super 7's and they show more difference between caps than a lot of other speakers. Like I said, if I could just get the big Jupiters I would :) But Jupiters are great bypass caps, especially on the mids. Using Dueland on the highs, hmm that's something I hadn't thought of, and might be even better than what I have.
I tried the Jupiter coppers as bypass nthe Peerless tweeter and didn't like them as much as the Platinums in that position. I have not tried them as bypass's using a Neo3 or GR Neo3 yet.
We got luck on the Duelands, got a few pairs of them for cheap ... a guy had been building a preamp and tried a number of different caps..... these he decied he didn't want so we grabbed them. verdict is still out using them with the Clarity CMR on the GR Neo3 in the deep waveguide...... pretty dam clean.
I think it would be interesting to campare a Clarity CMr , say a 10 or 12 uF with a Jupiter copper 10 / 12uF to see if there is any audiable difference. Big price diff, not so sure there'd be such a huge acoustic diff :scratch:
jay
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On my mini stratas I used Clarity CSA on the mids and kept the sonicaps on the tweeters. I also bypassed the sonicaps with old Russian FT-3 teflon caps which worked better than I expected. I'm still tempted to try CMRs on the tweeters. I really like them in my tube preamp.
On my X-Statiks I stuck to sonicaps with platinum and gen II bypass caps. I've tried other caps but for some reason the encore tweeters sound best with sonicaps.
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On all the ones I’ve built I use Sonicaps, Erse XQ inductors, Mills resistors, and either Sonicap Gen II or Platinum by-pass caps.
When I build for myself I use Platinum by-pass caps in both the woofer and tweeter circuits.
I haven’t tried foil inductors yet. I have doubted that my electronics were resolving enough to hear any difference. I might be getting to a point where that is no longer the case but I don’t know for sure.
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I have doubted thart my electronics were resolving enough to hear any difference. I might be getting to a point where where that is no longer the case but I don’t know for sure.
Mike, did you ever finish the Folsom amp?
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Mike, did you ever finish the Folsom amp?
Larry,
Haven't even started on it :oops:
Mike
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It's been a while since someone posted here. Are these kits still being sold? BTW, is the schematic of the X-over available for download?
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Hello Cap'n! Hope youre doing well. :)
Everyone else, apologies for the OT...
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It's been a while since someone posted here. Are these kits still being sold? BTW, is the schematic of the X-over available for download?
I'm pretty sure all the X-series kits are available when parts are in stock. Sometimes supply chain issues can cause a delay though.
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Rajesh, you can check out the kits at the link below or give Danny a call. The crossover schematics come as a part of the kit but are not available for general download as they are intellectual property of Danny’s design.
https://www.gr-research.com/store/c7/X-Series.html