Any reason to run 220 volts to the garage?

NeilT · « **Reply #20 on:** 24 May 2010, 10:33 pm »

Go ahead and pull the circuit while you have access.
You will have it there if you need it.
Don't worry about hooking it up just leave the wires long enough, safely coil and tape up the ends. You will easily be able to put the cover back on the panel. At the other end install a double gang "deep" device box from Home Depot, with a blank cover. You will easily be able to put in whatever receptacle you need to later.
Neil

Speedskater · « **Reply #21 on:** 26 May 2010, 12:42 am »

We ran 50 Amps and 240 Volts to the new garage. I don't have any power tools in the garage (just cars) but you never know.

We used 4 conductors - hot, hot, neutral and safety ground. Also added a ground rod near the garage. All the 120 Volt circuits have GFCI breakers or outlets.

NeilT · « **Reply #22 on:** 26 May 2010, 01:48 pm »

Kevin
That sounds like a good plan, now you also have the option of putting in a small sub panel.

Neil

ctviggen · « **Reply #23 on:** 26 May 2010, 03:14 pm »

50 amps? I'm not sure what size wire even supports that. I'll have to check into this. A double gang box is certainly possible. The problem comes in that the only real location in the garage where a new box can be installed is near the entrance to the garage. I already have installed a 20 amp circuit there, with a single gang box near this location (then metal conduit running around one side of the garage). I believe I can install another single gang box, but a double gang box might be a bit tough. I'll see what I can do, though. (This location is between an oil tank and the door from the garage into the house, and there's not a lot of room between these.)

Also, I do agree with the admonitions to be careful with 240V equipment. In fact, I'll install the 240V line near the "back" of the garage, away from possible water. My garage is known for having a little water come in during certain storms, but the water usually stays right near the garage door. We working to address this issue, but I have to get the family room done soon, as another child is on the way, and we need to prepare for that.

ctviggen · « **Reply #24 on:** 26 May 2010, 04:22 pm »

I should also say that I'm having all of this work inspected, so I also have to maintain the fire rating of the garage walls and perform all the electrical work to local codes. This is also a factor in the types of single/double gang boxes I can put in there. Not all boxes are fire rated.

Speedskater · « **Reply #25 on:** 26 May 2010, 04:59 pm »

The electrician talked me into going to 50 Amps. I think that he had the cable in his shed and needed to use it somewhere. We have a 6 breaker box in the garage and would have to swap breakers if a big tool or welder showed up.

NeilT · « **Reply #26 on:** 26 May 2010, 07:25 pm »

#10 is rated for 30 amps and would probably be enough. 3 #10's and you can use a #12 for the ground.
#8 would get you to 50 amps and would be better for a future sub panel. 3 #8's and a # 10 for the ground.
I would also check local codes or talk to an electrician who knows them.
Neil

ctviggen · « **Reply #27 on:** 26 May 2010, 08:06 pm »

I definitely think 10 ga is for 30 amps, as I had an electrician install an outdoor "outlet" for a future possible AC unit, and he installed a 30 amp, 240V breaker and used 10/3 wire.

I don't think even if I use 240V tools that I'll personally use anything that takes over 30 amps, and I have 10/3 wire. So, I'll just install 10/3.