AudioCircle
Community => Non-audio hobbies and interests => Home Improvements and Renovations => Topic started by: jermmd on 16 Jun 2011, 12:09 am
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After losing power for four days because of the storm last week (starting on the day I loaded the fridge and freezer from shopping at Costco), I have decided I need a generator. My friends with portable home generators all-and I mean 100%-say get the expensive Generac that goes on automatically rather than the portable model. I really only need the water pump, the furnace, and the refrigerator to be on but internet, telephone, garage door opener, stereo, lights, and gasoline pump would be great. I think I can live without AC for a few days. I have a propane tank (for pool heating, BBQ, and stove), so gas line for the generator won't be a problem. We lose power occasionally for a couple of minutes or hours but days is relatively rare. These are what I'm looking at:
Hitachi E71 13HP 7100 Watt Generator with Honda Motor (http://www.bigskytool.com/Hitachi_E71_13HP_7100_Watt_Generator_with_Honda_Motor___i2125.aspx)
Generac Guardian Series 5875 20,000 Watt Air-Cooled Liquid Propane/Natural Gas Powered Standby Generator With Transfer Switch (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003IT76F2/ref=s9_simh_gw_p86_d0_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-3&pf_rd_r=181XHT5KG9KJ674PFQNF&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938811&pf_rd_i=507846)
Generac QuietSource Series QT02224 22,000 Watt Liquid Cooled Propane/Natural Gas Powered Standby Generator Without Transfer Switch (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ET6W94/ref=s9_simh_gw_p86_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-3&pf_rd_r=181XHT5KG9KJ674PFQNF&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938811&pf_rd_i=507846)
Does anyone know anything about this stuff? Is it worth spending big bucks for something that will only be used for a couple of hours a year except in rare circumstances? How much power do I really need and is portability important? Is the expensive water cooled Generac worth twice the price of the air cooled model?
I can afford all of the options but I don't piss away money and I love a bargain.
Thanks,
Joe M.
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We have a Honda, which are generally rated the best. It came with our house, and although we lose power frequently in the winter, and last winter was exceptional, we only ran it 2 or 3 times. Unless you have expensive tropical fish or something, it probably is more of a luxury item.
I don't believe the power is "clean" enough for an audio system, so I never use mine when the generator is on.
If we do lose power for an extended period, I turn the thing on for the well pump, etc, have everyone take showers, etc., and then turn it off again. One that comes on automatically I think is overkill. I don't need to burn gasoline at 3 am while everyone sleeps.
If I need internet, I can just plug my wireless thingies into a 12 V battery with an inverter and use my laptop.
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This may be so obvious, but it wasn't to me and I messed up when I bought my Honda generator-
Our house was already wired with a subpanel so that the generator can plug right in. On this panel is the water pump which runs at 220V (is it 240?). But I got a 120V generator so the one thing you really want in a pwr failure, running water, I can't do :duh:. (we have a wood stove so heat is not so critical)
Dad says that it's really bad for the pump to be getting 120V so I flip that pair of breakers if I need to run the house on the gen. At least the refrig works.
I do use the generator for other things, like supplying music for the company picnic every year. (How many of us are "The Audio Guy" at work, huh? :lol:) or remote power for electric tools for hedge trimming.
-Mike
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I had a Yamaha gasoline powered, portable one. I used it several times and it seemed to have no trouble powering everything in the house including the Krell KSA 250 I had at the time.
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Two options: whole house and smaller.
I'm in the same boat (we lose power maybe 5 times a years for 20 minutes to 20 hours) out here in the country. We had a 30 amp 120/240 volt connector mounted on the outside of the house with a plate added to the main panel to ensure we're always on either utility or generator, never both. We heat with propane and could run the fireplace in case of loss of power.
Not sure if wifey, even with constant training, could handle a smaller one. And I'm nearing retirement and will need heart surgery (a when not if question), so don't know if I could in the future either. And running short on juice (having too much on a too small generator is a great way to burn out fan/compressor motors).
As I work with hospitals/nursing homes that are required to have emergency generators I contacted one of the better companies. They straight away directed me against the whole house idea (they thought it was a waste) Anyway, figure about 1 HP per 1,000 watts. Besides I'm a great one for making a mountain out of a mole hill. So I did nothing for years.
Smaller is the survival option. It should be sized to handle the well pump (typically 5,000 watts). For infrequent use this should be fine, but requires someone who can set it up, pull start it, keeping fuel on hand, and continually switch between well pump, frig/freezer, furnace, etc.
Whole house is the luxury option, unless you're unable to do the setup, fuel, switching stuff. For infrequent use, air cooled is fine. Look for weekly automatic runs (to make sure it's working) and automatic transfer switching (on and off) as utility power goes and comes back on. Look too for options like intelligent load shedding that allows for a smaller generator. And figure on getting annual servicing. Shop by the installer.
Well, just a couple of weeks ago I found out someone had donated a 10 HP, 5,000 watt Generac that didn't run to our church for scrape. One of our guys easily got it running and offered it to anyone at the church who wanted it. I finally jumped on it, so for $400 I'll get it tuned up with new plug, large fuel tank, wheels, and 20 ft cord. And the church will get $300 after what the guy put into it.
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Thanks guys. I very much doubt that my wife could manage the portable unit but it does seem like the most sensible option. The big Generac is really more of a luxury-which doesn't mean I've made up my mind about it. At least the air cooled unit seems adequate for infrequent use. That's half the price of the water cooled unit.
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I have the Honda 6500 (http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/products/modeldetail.aspx?page=modeldetail§ion=P2GG&modelname=EM6500S&modelid=EM6500SXK2), which is portable and gasoline. It has a key ignition, so it isn't a big deal to turn it on, and we have a knife switch so we can put the house on line or on generator. I also bought a battery tender for the battery, to make sure the ignition works when you need it.
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I have the Honda 6500 (http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/products/modeldetail.aspx?page=modeldetail§ion=P2GG&modelname=EM6500S&modelid=EM6500SXK2), which is portable and gasoline. It has a key ignition, so it isn't a big deal to turn it on, and we have a knife switch so we can put the house on line or on generator. I also bought a battery tender for the battery, to make sure the ignition works when you need it.
This looks like the way I'll go. The Hitachi I linked above uses a Honda engine and is really good. Is a knife switch the same as a transfer switch? I'll have an electician install one.
Joe
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This looks like the way I'll go. The Hitachi I linked above uses a Honda engine and is really good. Is a knife switch the same as a transfer switch? I'll have an electician install one.
Joe
Probably. Yours probably possesses the additional merit of legality.
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I just looked at your links. The main disadvantage of what I have vs. those is no enclosure. Ours is in the garage.
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I am going against the group here... I would recommend a whole house set up on automatic transfer. It is almost never a good time to mess around with electricity when a power outage occurs. Rain - ice storm - fire - darkness... And often a major outage can last over a week.
If you go with a smaller generator, no hot water, not enough power for multiple refrigerators and freezers. No central heat or air. When a bad outage occurs, it is often a function of a major bad event. Dealing with limited electricity in a chaotic world is just too much.
A large home installation will cost upwards to $10K but should last many many years.
We have a large propane tank, but I would go with a diesel model generator and install a separate tank (with off road/no taxed diesel). I would also go with a water cooled unit - less loud.
Our local electric coop offers a free consultation to size and price an installation using good installers and reliable hardware. You electric utility may also offer that service.
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I should clarify what ours does and doesn't have to do:
1. Our hot water and heat (apart from the blower) is not electric.
2. It handles our well pump without issue
3. I turn off our hot tub as a precaution, but when it is on, it handles that as well as the rest of the house.
4. We are gone much of the day if it is a workday, and the kids will be in school, so something that comes on while we are asleep or out just wastes fuel.
5. We also don't tap into our propane supply but instead use gasoline. The idea of a generator depleting the propane we would need for heat and hot water is worrisome. If I did opt for a propane generator, I would make sure it had its own fuel tank.
6. It is inside our garage, and I can turn it on and off with relative comfort. Also, we live in costal central california, with snow only rarely.
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Good timing on this question for me, too.
If I can broaden the OP's questions....anyone know anything about solar generators?
We might be $40Billion in hock in Cali....but we've got 250 mostly sunny days in NorCal and probably closer to 300 days in SOCAL. We can make good use of a solar generator...and maybe miss the $5 a gallon gas days ahead.
The solar generators I've seen thus far that can power something more than one blender are in the USD$1500 range....too pricey I think.
Thx, John
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As far as I know, a "solar generator" basically will charge a 12 V car battery over a period of days, and then you have a charged car battery when you need it, which is better than nothing.
We live in the Santa Crud mountains and got a solar system installed last year by Real Goods Solar, who I would recommend, if you are interested in that. Here is our system:
http://www.tinyurl.com/wgsolar
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Don´t know what you mean by solar generator? do you mean solar panels? I been living off the grid for 20 yrs and designing and installing systems for 18 yrs and I would strongly disagree with wgscott on Real Goods they would be the last company I would deal with ,highly over price and the owner is just a hustler trying to make a buck IMHO.
Mike
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I left a spot when I did the landscaping on the side where the AC units are for a generator. I looked at some things but I'm holding off and hoping this comes sooner than later - http://www.fastcompany.com/100/2010/20/kr-sridhar
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Don´t know what you mean by solar generator? do you mean solar panels? I been living off the grid for 20 yrs and designing and installing systems for 18 yrs and I would strongly disagree with wgscott on Real Goods they would be the last company I would deal with ,highly over price and the owner is just a hustler trying to make a buck IMHO.
Mike
I'm sorry to hear that. Our experience was completely positive, and the installation was performed on-time, without flaw, and slightly under-cost. We got multiple quotes but actually had a very hard time getting competitors even to show up, and one guy (who was contracted by Home Depot) showed up, just sneered at our electrical system, pretended to make some measurements, and then drove off in his Lexus, never to be heard from again. This in the midst of a recession with regional unemployment above 10%.
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The "instant on" permanent generators, like the Generac and Coleman models usually require a gas source (natural or LP), a permanent foundation, a huge contact relay before your electrical panel and all the wiring needed to get things from one spot to another. The contactor has to be large enough to disconnect the house's mains and insert the standby generator.
I'm betting that when all is said and done, the bill will be over $10,000. However, it will be almost instant on, if there is a power failure and there would be nothing for the home owner to disconnect or reconnect as this is all automated.
A portable generator is an inexpensive option, but say you loose power during a storm, you will be out there getting the generator going, running a cord into the house and plugging in the most vital things like the fridge, sump pump and some lights. Wattage can get sucked up quickly so you should base your generator's size on the total wattage requirements, and add at least 20% for turn on current inrush demands. Also, running a generator in a garage that is connected to the house invites carbon monoxide into the dwelling and is not a good idea, so that means the generator should have a spot outdoors, preferably out of the elements.
Wayner 8)
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Yeah, definitely vent it to the outside. Ours is permanently wired into the house, so all we have to do is turn it on and throw a switch. Basically, it needs to go into a 240V (assuming you get that kind of generator).
Our garage is detached, but you still need to vent it. I know, because the previous owner did not, and if you hit your head and pass out after turning it on in the garage, it's all over.
My summer project is to follow my own advice and vent it properly.
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A portable generator is an inexpensive option, but say you loose power during a storm, you will be out there getting the generator going, running a cord into the house and plugging in the most vital things like the fridge, sump pump and some lights.
This always seems to be the case. Out there in the dark at 10 o'clock with the rain coming down on you trying to figure out which way is on for the gas shut off valve :duh:, removing the air filter and spraying some SureStart stuff into the carburetor and then pulling the crank again and again until the bleeding thing starts... Works fine once it's started and plugged in though.
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I have also considered a portable gen for many years. Seems to me the only emergency power needed is for the furnace in the winter, and the fridge in the summer. And maybe a couple lights.
"experts" say do not backfeed the breaker box (from the garage for ex). I have 12 gauge wire to the garage and would be backfeeding about 30 ft. I would only power the fridge or furnace. I don't think i would need 220v for emergency power .
Why is a knife switch needed to block the source in(com ed) ? ---- can't you just throw the main breaker switch at the breaker box ? Or pull the main meter ?
Yes, you can just run electric power supply cords for the fridge, lights etc, but there is no plug for the furnace.
any comments or help ?
thanx
zeke
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I have also considered a portable gen for many years. Seems to me the only emergency power needed is for the furnace in the winter, and the fridge in the summer. And maybe a couple lights.
Hello? And the stereo!
Steve
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hello Steve -------- yes, as soon as the beer is cold and the house is warm i will turn on the stereo !
:lol:
zeke
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I have also considered a portable gen for many years. Seems to me the only emergency power needed is for the furnace in the winter, and the fridge in the summer. And maybe a couple lights.
"experts" say do not backfeed the breaker box (from the garage for ex). I have 12 gauge wire to the garage and would be backfeeding about 30 ft. I would only power the fridge or furnace. I don't think i would need 220v for emergency power .
Why is a knife switch needed to block the source in(com ed) ? ---- can't you just throw the main breaker switch at the breaker box ? Or pull the main meter ?
Yes, you can just run electric power supply cords for the fridge, lights etc, but there is no plug for the furnace.
any comments or help ?
thanx
zeke
The 2 power sources must never mix. AC means alternating current which means that if the 2 sources were to ever mix, their frequency must exactly align.
In another words, the line frequencies of both electrical sources must be synchronized.
Wayner
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Here in New Hampshire it is not unheard of to be without power for several days, or weeks, at a time. We are self-contained, well, septic, satellite tv so a generator makes good sense. As long as we can get the gas to run it, and heating oil, we hardly notice power losses.
We had a transfer switch wired into our main panel and an outside plug-in when we built this house. I went with a Generac this year when the old Home Depot special gave out after 12 years. (Not bad for $400.) The new generator is 8kWatts with a 10K peak, and electric start. The well barely loads it when it starts. I think we have about $3K (10 years ago) in the system. Considering the price of motel rooms when you're competing with every one else, it pays for itself quickly in our situation. Not to mention the extra rest we get by not having to deal with all of that upheaval.
We had an ice storm a few years back that shut everything down for a week to 10 days. Out of 15 homes in our neck of the woods, only one other neighbor had a generator. As luck would have it, he lived exactly on the opposite side of the neighborhood. So folks were going to his house or ours depending on which was closer. It was fun for us, kind of like winter camp, with lines to the showers and kitchen. Our neighbors were starting to cook food before it went bad. Ended up being one heck of a party one night when Charlie, with the other generator, ran out of gas. So everyone ended up at our house. One year later and almost every house had their own generator.
I was listening to my system a couple of nights on the generator during that ice storm. I have never heard the background that quiet!
edit: Warning. If you run your electronics off of a generator be sure to use a UPS or something to protect your gear.
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hi Wayner --- thanx for your comments
I understand the two sources must never mix, and that it can be dangerous to electric company workers if the port gen backfeeds into the electric company lines. But my question still, is why is a special throw switch needed if you can simply trip the main breaker in the breaker box, or for that matter pull the electric meter outside, before you start backfeeding your breaker box from the port gen.
zeke
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Don´t know what you mean by solar generator? do you mean solar panels? I been living off the grid for 20 yrs and designing and installing systems for 18 yrs and I would strongly disagree with wgscott on Real Goods they would be the last company I would deal with ,highly over price and the owner is just a hustler trying to make a buck IMHO.
Mike
I was thinking of something like this: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4310054&CAWELAID=546187143
Panel(s), controller, battery, inverter, etc all-in-one.
I'm leasing a home right now (quite by choice), but I'd like to have back-up for grid fry, tremors, SHTF scenario's, etc.
(apologies to OP/jermmd for taking his original question slightly askew now into solar) :|
John
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Costco (http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11630152&search=solar&Mo=22&cm_re=1_en-_-Top_Left_Nav-_-Top_search&lang=en-US&Nr=P_CatalogName:BC&Sp=S&N=5000043&whse=BC&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk=Text_Search&Dr=P_CatalogName:BC&Ne=4000000&D=solar&Ntt=solar&No=12&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Nty=1&topnav=&s=1) sells a bunch of Solar generators for the home. I don't think they're good for emergencies but they mat pay for themselves over time and they can help in an emergency.
Joe
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hi Wayner --- thanx for your comments
I understand the two sources must never mix, and that it can be dangerous to electric company workers if the port gen backfeeds into the electric company lines. But my question still, is why is a special throw switch needed if you can simply trip the main breaker in the breaker box, or for that matter pull the electric meter outside, before you start backfeeding your breaker box from the port gen.
zeke
One system must be disconnected, while the other is connected. The knife switch (not recommended) will accomplish this, but contactors are much better (you won't loose an arm).
Wayner 8)
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Perfect day here. Sunny, upper 70s, etc. Not a cloud in the sky. Power failed at 8:30 am and still out. I've fired up the generator twice now to take showers, etc. This is well worth having, but it would be kind of nice to have a first-world electricty grid.
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One system must be disconnected, while the other is connected. The knife switch (not recommended) will accomplish this, but contactors are much better (you won't loose an arm).
Wayner 8)
What's wrong with a knife switch? Should I get it replaced?
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Here in New Hampshire it is not unheard of to be without power for several days, or weeks, at a time. We are self-contained, well, septic, satellite tv so a generator makes good sense. As long as we can get the gas to run it, and heating oil, we hardly notice power losses.
We had a transfer switch wired into our main panel and an outside plug-in when we built this house. I went with a Generac this year when the old Home Depot special gave out after 12 years. (Not bad for $400.) The new generator is 8kWatts with a 10K peak, and electric start. The well barely loads it when it starts. I think we have about $3K (10 years ago) in the system. Considering the price of motel rooms when you're competing with every one else, it pays for itself quickly in our situation. Not to mention the extra rest we get by not having to deal with all of that upheaval.
We had an ice storm a few years back that shut everything down for a week to 10 days. Out of 15 homes in our neck of the woods, only one other neighbor had a generator. As luck would have it, he lived exactly on the opposite side of the neighborhood. So folks were going to his house or ours depending on which was closer. It was fun for us, kind of like winter camp, with lines to the showers and kitchen. Our neighbors were starting to cook food before it went bad. Ended up being one heck of a party one night when Charlie, with the other generator, ran out of gas. So everyone ended up at our house. One year later and almost every house had their own generator.
I was listening to my system a couple of nights on the generator during that ice storm. I have never heard the background that quiet!
edit: Warning. If you run your electronics off of a generator be sure to use a UPS or something to protect your gear.
I'm in NH, we purchased a generator after that same storm - we were out of power 8-9 days. Huge pine came down and knocked out my chimney flues, got a new stone chimney via insurance, and took the leap re: Generac 8KW + electric start, transfer switch wired into our main panel and an outside plug-in. We're on well, septic, etc. The piece of mind with having the back up is absolutely wonderful, should have done it years ago.
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No, a knife switch is fine (is this like 1950?), just use the hand you don't write with to make the switch, just in case it gets blown off with an arc-flash explosion.
Perhaps some of you DIYers need to go to a couple of NFPA-79e classes, to learn what even small currents of electricity can do to your body.
A simple 15 amp, 120 volt outlet can deliver 50,000 amps for a few micro-seconds. Enough to blow your ass up, and burn you to hell. In my other job, I was an electrical designer for a fortune 500 company, designing AMMs that are 208 or 480 volt 3-phase stuff. That is nasty stuff, but the lowly 120/240 circuits supplied to our homes is quite deadly. If you don't know what you are doing, get someone who does.
Yesterday, I was touring a storm damaged area and came apon a fellow that was removing tree limbs from a 3-phase high voltage line. I got out and asked him what he was doing. He said it was his tree that fell on the wire and he wasn't going to let the utilities people get his firewood. I said, I hope you get to use it. A while later, I saw him drive past into town. Perhaps I scared the shit out of him, and perhaps saved his life.
Moral of story, 8 milliamps of 120 volt electricity can kill you very, very dead. Imagine what 50,000 amps can do? Do we have any more DIY portable power generator genius folks here that would like to chime in?
Wayner 8)
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What we have is called a Double throw safety switch (http://reviews.homedepot.com/1999/100151733/100-amp-120-240-volt-24-000-watt-non-fused-general-duty-double-throw-safety-switch-reviews/reviews.htm) which, perhaps, I am wrong to call a knife switch, but that is what it looks like to me. The one pictured in the link is very similar, but ours has a longer handle.
I'm not sure how to decode the rhetoric, so just a straight up "it is ok" or "it is a hazard, get someone competent to replace it" would be really helpful.
This, along with the wired-in generator, came with our house. The house has been inspected both during the sale and subsequently by the electrical utility when we had solar panels installed. Neither objected to this switch.
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Costco (http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11630152&search=solar&Mo=22&cm_re=1_en-_-Top_Left_Nav-_-Top_search&lang=en-US&Nr=P_CatalogName:BC&Sp=S&N=5000043&whse=BC&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk=Text_Search&Dr=P_CatalogName:BC&Ne=4000000&D=solar&Ntt=solar&No=12&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Nty=1&topnav=&s=1) sells a bunch of Solar generators for the home. I don't think they're good for emergencies but they mat pay for themselves over time and they can help in an emergency.
Joe
Who knew Costco sold this stuff? That's not a bad price -- $3.50 per watt. I had read it was about $9/watt including installation.
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The generator for home use can be very simple. First , you need to know what you plan to run in your home AND how much amperage these items draw for start up and run mode. The start up of a AC unit might be 40-50 amps on 220/240. A well unit may be either 110 or 220, so if these are necessary items that you want to power, you need the amperage to start the units.
My electrician installed a cable and plug on the back of m house to my main breaker panel. I shut off the main and all breakers for circuits in my house. I plug in the generator and kick on the breaker to back feed my panel. I then turn on the breakers one at a time that I want to use, like the kitchen, water pump or heat. I keep the amperage draw as low as possible since my concern is water, keeping food cold and in winter, not freezing the pipes or myself. I have found a 10,000 watt generator will take care of most homes for emergency use. If you want to run everything, then you will need more.
Disclaimer: This is for information only. Please check with a qualified electrician before attempting to hook up a generator to your home!
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What we have is called a Double throw safety switch (http://reviews.homedepot.com/1999/100151733/100-amp-120-240-volt-24-000-watt-non-fused-general-duty-double-throw-safety-switch-reviews/reviews.htm) which, perhaps, I am wrong to call a knife switch, but that is what it looks like to me. The one pictured in the link is very similar, but ours has a longer handle.
I'm not sure how to decode the rhetoric, so just a straight up "it is ok" or "it is a hazard, get someone competent to replace it" would be really helpful.
This, along with the wired-in generator, came with our house. The house has been inspected both during the sale and subsequently by the electrical utility when we had solar panels installed. Neither objected to this switch.
Calling that a knife switch is a stretch. It's a disconnect with internal guarded poles, fully enclosed and probably lockable. It's manual, but does the trick to disconnect under load.
Wayner
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Thanks. I am going to get it and everything else in our house inspected by a competent electrician. There are several other issues that concern me as well.
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The generator for home use can be very simple. First , you need to know what you plan to run in your home AND how much amperage these items draw for start up and run mode. The start up of a AC unit might be 40-50 amps on 220/240. A well unit may be either 110 or 220, so if these are necessary items that you want to power, you need the amperage to start the units.
My electrician installed a cable and plug on the back of m house to my main breaker panel. I shut off the main and all breakers for circuits in my house. I plug in the generator and kick on the breaker to back feed my panel. I then turn on the breakers one at a time that I want to use, like the kitchen, water pump or heat. I keep the amperage draw as low as possible since my concern is water, keeping food cold and in winter, not freezing the pipes or myself. I have found a 10,000 watt generator will take care of most homes for emergency use. If you want to run everything, then you will need more.
Disclaimer: This is for information only. Please check with a qualified electrician before attempting to hook up a generator to your home!
I'm going to connect a generator to my home myself (pulled the permit and will have it inspected). I'm going for a max of 7,500 watts though, and will use a connection on the outside of the house (to which the generator is connected). I'll pass this into the breaker box and a single breaker rated for the correct amount of current (30 amps). I'll then drill into the cover for my breaker box so that either the house is powered from the "street", or the generator is powered, but not both. In my situation, I'd have to get an outdoor transfer switch, which is technically possible but quite hard to do in practice.
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After losing power for 4 days one winter, we installed a 12 KW natural gas generator with a transfer switch. We have critical circuits powered by the generator, including the sump pump, two natural gas furnaces, one AC unit, a freezer, our refrigerator, our internet router, a TV and the garage door opener, as well as lights and outlets in a few critical areas. The cost was about $6,000 fully installed.
If the power goes out for more than thirty seconds the generator goes on automatically. When power returns, the generator turns itself off and restores power from the grid. I have no concerns about running out of fuel for the generator. My wife knows the standby power will go on even when I am away from home. The generator runs a self-test once a week, so I am confident it will run when needed. It operates quieter than a portable unit and produces power stable enough in voltage and cycles to reliably power electronics and the microprocessors which are in so many appliances today.
Yes, a standby generator is more expensive than a portable generator, but the peace of mind is worth something. Some obvious advantages over portable units include, you do not need to manually start the generator, plug critical circuits into the unit, provide gasoline every few hours or worry about carbon monoxide from the exhaust.