Who's right ?

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keenween

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Re: Who's right ?
« Reply #20 on: 15 Jun 2010, 11:28 pm »
Good post, I agree.  I like this part: More attention must be paid to input and output sensitivities and impedance's, and cabling resistance, inductance, and capacitance. This is why it is not more popular.
Someone have a any tip, or a practical info about it??   Looks a interesting new ground, with great rewards in sound quality for less money...

A couple of things I've read besides source needs enough output voltage... amplifier input impedance should be 10x or greater the passive preamplifier output impedance, and interconnects should be short as possible with low capacitance.

More knowledgeable people may feel free to correct any of the above that is incorrect.

FullRangeMan

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Re: Who's right ?
« Reply #21 on: 16 Jun 2010, 02:27 am »
A couple of things I've read besides source needs enough output voltage... amplifier input impedance should be 10x or greater the passive preamplifier output impedance, and interconnects should be short as possible with low capacitance.

More knowledgeable people may feel free to correct any of the above that is incorrect.
Good, Very Thanks for your advice
Gustavo

BobRex

Re: Who's right ?
« Reply #22 on: 16 Jun 2010, 01:08 pm »
A couple of things I've read besides source needs enough output voltage... amplifier input impedance should be 10x or greater the passive preamplifier output impedance, and interconnects should be short as possible with low capacitance.

More knowledgeable people may feel free to correct any of the above that is incorrect.

Well, you are mostly correct - at least in theory.  But there are points where theory and practice can diverge.

Output Voltage: Most quality preamps can put out peak voltages far beyond the input capabilities of amplifiers.  It's not unheard of (actually it's pretty common) to have a preamp / line stage that peaks out at 20 volts cleanly.  Most amps provide full output at something between 2 and 5 volts.  The net result is that most preamps are used in attenuation mode and rarely provide gain.  So when bummrush claims he can add gain in 1dB steps, more than likely he is using the pre below unity and is actually just reducing attenuation, not adding gain.

Amplifier Input Impedance: Again, correct for the most part, and the higher the impedance the better.  As the amplifier imput impedance begins to approach the pre's output impedance the bass response will start to roll off at a higher and higher frequency.  Stereophile's measurements typically  indicate the effect of driving a 600 ohm amplifier (probably the worst case amplifier input impedance you'll find), and while the effect is drastic, it is typically confined to below 30Hz.  Whether this is an issue is dependent upon your speakers.  If you are using minimonitors or full rangers that don't truly plumb the bottom octave, you may never hear the difference.  Again, practice may beat out theory.

Interconencts  Size doesn't matter!  Well, as long as you are practical about it.....  As long as the amp has a high enough input impedance (not 600 ohms) and the cable impedance (keeping both capacitance and inductance under control) isn't too bizarre, you can drive cable up to 10 meters in length (frequently longer) with no issue.  Those that claim to hear the difference between 2 meters and 4 meters are probably using a cable that has a unique impedance (probably really high capacitance) or are delusional.

rollo

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Re: Who's right ?
« Reply #23 on: 16 Jun 2010, 01:48 pm »
If the designer of the preamp line stage has done his homework, that preamp will sound better than any passive made. Passives cannot control the interconnect cable and that is one thing that a good line section **can** do (although not all preamp designers realize that what I just said is possible, so you will see a lot of variance as a result)....

It is the interaction between the cable, the source resistance (which is a combination of the passive control and the actual source, including the cable from the source to the passive) and the input impedance of the amp that creates the bass/dynamic filter that many passives are guilty of being. The only way around it is to use really low impedances, something that most sources cannot handle.

So in effect passive controls are a form of tone control. The fact that they can sound better then some actives is simply the measure of how bad those actives really are. The only way I have found to make a passive work is to eliminate the cable between the control and the amp, IOW put the control **in** the amp. This eliminates convenience but then the control works.


--Ralph Karsten


 Transformer based passives can drive ICs up to 5 mtrs without issue. Resistor based passices another issue.


charles

Guy 13

Re: Who's right ?
« Reply #24 on: 25 Jun 2010, 03:06 am »
I like both integrated amps and power/preamp amp setups. Our integrated amps use a passive voltage divider circuit to control volume and it works very well.

The pro's of a passive setup: There is absolutely no noise induced into the signal path. As long as your source's voltage output is 1.5v or higher, this system works very well. The amp's input has to be sensitive as well.

Active preamps: My favorite is a nearly straight through design using triodes. Actives have the uncanny ability to bring out subtleties in music when properly mated with a good amplifier. Even though active preamps  are in attenuation mode 80% of the time, a triode preamp still 'reaches in' and gathers information that is sometimes lost. 

Note: Just like amps, preamps are tools and sometimes it is better to use a passive system for volume control. It all depends on the setup.
Hi Blair and all Audio Circle members.
If I understand well :
Passive pre-amplifier is more or less an attenuator or volume control ?
It does not change the original sound passing thru it; it does not add or subtract information from the source, if the pre-amplifier is well designed, of course.
I read somewhere that an active pre-amplifier will give more current to the input of the amplifier ?
Now, why would someone want to put between the source and the amplifier an external pre-amplifier (Passive or active) with all the sound degrading cables, pay the extra money for the external pre-amplifier and all the cables, when you can buy an integrated amplifier, with everything already built in ? (Most of the sources today are more than 1.5V) Integrated amplifier with a built in pre-amplifier, to me, would be less costly, less cables and as good ? Is it because of the noise issue, caused by the pre-amplifier being to close to the main power supply ?
Is my idea of going integrated a good one ?
Can you tell me the strong and weak points of my integrated amplifier approach ?
I will never go with the pre-amplifier (Passive or active) approach, because… Well, I simply don’t believe in that set up.
Waiting for your answers, comments and explanations.
Have a nice day.
Guy 13.
 

chlorofille

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Re: Who's right ?
« Reply #25 on: 25 Jun 2010, 06:22 am »
Hi Guy 13,

An integrated amplifier can sound good and have little noise/hum if designed well but you will always be limited to that. You won't have an option to use a different monoblock amp or preamp. Synergy is very important and that is how I combined a mono block and pre-amp for my system (after trying 10-12 combination of each).

Most commercial integrated amps have everything compressed inside a relatively small chassis so I would question the quality of parts used.

Regarding active vs passive pre-amp, I found the passive one to be dull and lifeless. When I used the active one, there was body and soul in the music and I found that more details were present at the same listening volume. Just my $0.02.

I am sure you will find a big difference if you use a monoblock + active pre-amp.




Guy 13

Re: Who's right ?
« Reply #26 on: 25 Jun 2010, 07:53 am »
Hi Guy 13,

An integrated amplifier can sound good and have little noise/hum if designed well but you will always be limited to that. You won't have an option to use a different monoblock amp or preamp. Synergy is very important and that is how I combined a mono block and pre-amp for my system (after trying 10-12 combination of each).

Most commercial integrated amps have everything compressed inside a relatively small chassis so I would question the quality of parts used.

Regarding active vs passive pre-amp, I found the passive one to be dull and lifeless. When I used the active one, there was body and soul in the music and I found that more details were present at the same listening volume. Just my $0.02.

I am sure you will find a big difference if you use a monoblock + active pre-amp.
Hi chlorofille.
(Cute name you have…)
An integrated amplifier being limited to sounding good and have little noise/hum its O.K. with me.
I do not want to use monoblock and/or pre-amplifiers, because :
Too expensive, too much wiring and too much space needed.
I don’t want to be a pain in the neck with my (Narrow minded) opinion, because I don’t want to try to find the perfect match between components, I want to leave that to Blair (Niteshade Audio) he already did all that matching for all of us and by going with an integrated amplifier from Niteshade Audio, I go around that matching task and I know I will get something that sounds good. For some audiophile, that’s what they like about audio, matching, buying, exchanging... but for me, what I like is to listen to music. Each audiophile has its own priorities and preferences.
Well with the extra large and roomy Niteshade Audio chassis that Blair use, as no space problem, nothing inside is crowded and the quality of the parts used are good. Brian is not in the repair or spare part business, that’s a guarantee of quality.   
How can a passive pre-amplifier be dull and lifeless, when it’s not supposed to modify the sound, is it not what all audiophile agree on ?
Again, I am once more a pain in the neck with my arguing :
According to you, an active pre-amplifier, gives body and soul to the music, when a sound system is supposed to be neutral. The passive or active pre-amplifier is not supposed to add anything to the original source, is there something I don’t get, I don’t understand. I am only repeating what lots of audiophiles and manufacturers as well, are saying.
Am I stubborn or what ?
Can an integrated amplifier sound as good as monoblock with active pre-amplifier, if well design ? ? ?
I am not trying to start a third world war with my questions, I just want to understand.
Can someone give me good reason to go another way than integrated, not only tell me it sounds better, but why it sounds better ? If one power supply for each monoblock is better, I am sure Blair can make an integrated amplifier with a beefed-up power supply.
Enough now, it’s your turn to come up with something that will make me change my mind, I can change my mind, but I need solid arguments, especially when a combination of sound quality and money is involved.
Have a nice day.
Guy 13.

chlorofille

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Re: Who's right ?
« Reply #27 on: 25 Jun 2010, 09:35 am »
Hi Guy 13,

As discussed in the previous posts, an active pre-amp is able to drive a vast majority of sources to the amp better. Maybe that is why I found the sound more dynamic and soulful. Anything that you put in between an amp and a source will add a "sound" of it's own to it. Blair's amps are very well made and I'm sure his integrated type will satisfy you.

In my previous post, I was trying to explain that if you use monoblock + preamp, then you have more flexibility in tailoring the sound to your needs. Since you don't need to "mix n match", then no worries =)

Guy 13

Re: Who's right ?
« Reply #28 on: 25 Jun 2010, 09:57 am »
Hi Guy 13,

As discussed in the previous posts, an active pre-amp is able to drive a vast majority of sources to the amp better. Maybe that is why I found the sound more dynamic and soulful. Anything that you put in between an amp and a source will add a "sound" of it's own to it. Blair's amps are very well made and I'm sure his integrated type will satisfy you.

In my previous post, I was trying to explain that if you use monoblock + preamp, then you have more flexibility in tailoring the sound to your needs. Since you don't need to "mix n match", then no worries =)
Hi Dinny.
Please don’t get me wrong, despite my preference for integrated amplifier, the monoblock with pre-amp is a good way to go, many audiophiles take that route, so, can’t be bad, but that not my final destination. I prefer integrated for personal reasons, mainly simplicity, dimensions and price, I don’t think the sound quality will suffer because of my preferences, especially if I do business with Blair.
Blair will be building me an integrated amplifier (Single Ended with 6L6 at 15wpc.) I am anxious to hear it on my GR Research V-1.
If I win the lottery, maybe I will try a monoblock - pre amp set up and then, I might say:
I should have listened to you in the first place Dinny ! (Ha, ha…)
Have a nice day.

Guy 13 in Vietnam,
but from Montreal, Canada.
Buy the way, I am setting up an audio business here in Vietnam and it will be called :
AUDIO 13
I will sell Niteshade Audio and GR Research products under my own brand name Audio 13.
My dream will come true.
………………………………………………………………………………………

BobRex

Re: Who's right ?
« Reply #29 on: 25 Jun 2010, 01:22 pm »
An integrated amplifier being limited to sounding good and have little noise/hum its O.K. with me.
I do not want to use monoblock and/or pre-amplifiers, because :
Too expensive, too much wiring and too much space needed.

Integrateds are limited by their space constraints.  If you can agree with the idea that separate power supplies are an advantage for monoblocks, then you should be able to understand the advantages of having a separate power supply for a line stage.  Yes, you can build a small integrated that sounds wonderful, hell, you can even build an esoteric SET amp with a built in line stage, but at each turn, unless the power supply has substantial capacity, you give up some performance.  As long as your speakers are bandwidth limited (no true full rangers with response into the 20s),  and moderately sensitive (say above 90dB sensitivity), and a relatively benign load (no dips below 4 ohms and no wild phase shifts) an integrated will work just fine as long as you don't push the volume too far.


Quote
   
How can a passive pre-amplifier be dull and lifeless, when it’s not supposed to modify the sound, is it not what all audiophile agree on ?
Again, I am once more a pain in the neck with my arguing :
According to you, an active pre-amplifier, gives body and soul to the music, when a sound system is supposed to be neutral. The passive or active pre-amplifier is not supposed to add anything to the original source, is there something I don’t get, I don’t understand. I am only repeating what lots of audiophiles and manufacturers as well, are saying.
Am I stubborn or what ?

Not stubborn, just lacking knowledge and experience.  Passives work by basically placing impedance (mostly resistance) between the source (CD, LP, whatever...) and the amplifier.  IF (and it is a major if) the source has sufficient driving capability (read voltage and current) and the amplifier is sufficiently sensitive, the passive will work.  The problem is that in the majority of cases the source does not have sufficient capability to properly drive the amplifer.  Most sources are not designed to drive an amp, the output stages are designed to be accepted by an active line stage, which then is capable of properly driving the amplifier.   That's why most people eventually give up on passives.  The active isn't necessarily adding a coloration as much as it is allowing the proper signal to come through without being stripped of its character.

Quote
Can an integrated amplifier sound as good as monoblock with active pre-amplifier, if well design ? ? ?

In some circumstances, yes.  It depends wholly on the speaker and the desired loudness.  There are damned few integrateds that output over 100 watts into low impedances.  There are more than a handful of loudspeakers that require that power and place heavy demands on the amplifier.  In these circumstances, most integrateds will not work that well.


Guy 13

Re: Who's right ?
« Reply #30 on: 27 Jun 2010, 07:30 am »
Integrateds are limited by their space constraints.  If you can agree with the idea that separate power supplies are an advantage for monoblocks, then you should be able to understand the advantages of having a separate power supply for a line stage.  Yes, you can build a small integrated that sounds wonderful, hell, you can even build an esoteric SET amp with a built in line stage, but at each turn, unless the power supply has substantial capacity, you give up some performance.  As long as your speakers are bandwidth limited (no true full rangers with response into the 20s),  and moderately sensitive (say above 90dB sensitivity), and a relatively benign load (no dips below 4 ohms and no wild phase shifts) an integrated will work just fine as long as you don't push the volume too far.


Not stubborn, just lacking knowledge and experience.  Passives work by basically placing impedance (mostly resistance) between the source (CD, LP, whatever...) and the amplifier.  IF (and it is a major if) the source has sufficient driving capability (read voltage and current) and the amplifier is sufficiently sensitive, the passive will work.  The problem is that in the majority of cases the source does not have sufficient capability to properly drive the amplifer.  Most sources are not designed to drive an amp, the output stages are designed to be accepted by an active line stage, which then is capable of properly driving the amplifier.   That's why most people eventually give up on passives.  The active isn't necessarily adding a coloration as much as it is allowing the proper signal to come through without being stripped of its character.

In some circumstances, yes.  It depends wholly on the speaker and the desired loudness.  There are damned few integrateds that output over 100 watts into low impedances.  There are more than a handful of loudspeakers that require that power and place heavy demands on the amplifier.  In these circumstances, most integrateds will not work that well.
Hi Bob and other AC members as well…
Yes, you are right when you say that integrated are limited by their (Chassis) space constraint, however, according to Blair, he says he is using a large chassis with all his amplifiers, therefore the components are not too much crowded and he can populate the chassis with larger transformer (Iron) and other stuff.
Using two separate chassis becomes logical, because you have two completely independent power supplies.
Having an integrated with, let’s say a 5X oversize transformer for both channels might be the equivalent to two monoblocs with each it’s own power supply, but a 5X iron on a single chassis will become monstrously big…
I have ordered from Blair a SE amplifier with 6L6 in pentode configuration with a 15wpc output, it will be fed with a CD source with 2V output. My speakers are V1 from GR Research with 97db sensivity. The two 12” OB H frame drivers are driven by a Rythmik A370PEQ 370 watts servo amplifier.
Unless I am wrong and time will confirm that, I think it will give me satisfactory performance or it will at least improve my existing system with a Decware SE-84C+ 2wpc output.
My tube amplifiers and loudspeakers knowledge is not at level zero, I am 62 years old, and I have been the owner of around ten different set up, SS and tubes since I was 20 years old.
How can you know your source (CD/LP) is a good match to your amplifier ?
My CD has 2Volts output, my Niteshade SE15 need 1.5V to give its full 15wpc output potential.
I would think and hope that the impedance from both units would be a perfect match, now, does the source has enough current to drive the integrated ? ? ? That is very difficult to answer and I would believe that the pre amp in the SE-15 would be adequate to drive the 6L6 power tubes… If I am wrong, I would sure like Blair to jump in and comments.
After several e-mail exchange with Blair, I think Blair will take into consideration that my source is 2Volts and that the integrated pre-amp must be design to drive the amplifier to it’s full potential. If I am doing business with Blair, it’s because what he does is custom work taking into account the customer needs.
As far as what is my listening level is concern, let’s say that for now I drive my GR V1 with a 2wpc Decware SE-84C+ and I am satisfied. My listening room is 9’ X 15’. I don’t drive my speakers to insane level like the heavy metal rock musicians, because I want to protect my ears.
My next Niteshade amplifier with probably be 30wpc and it will give more impact to the sound, but as I always say : How much I will have to pay and how much I will get in return or improvement for my investment ?
I will never acquire any speakers with a sensivity lower than 90db.
For now, I am learning some basics that I am missing, I am learning from other Audio Circle members and later on I will learn by myself with the equipment that I will acquire, but I know that I will always learn something from the Audio Circle members…
Thanks for your comments and have a nice day.
Guy 13.   

chlorofille

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Re: Who's right ?
« Reply #31 on: 27 Jun 2010, 10:02 am »
Hi Guy 13 ,

You have no problems at all with that setup. The amp can easily drive your 97dB speakers to insane levels  :drool:

Pls let us know how the Niteshade Integrated compares with the Zen Triode 84 for the same listening levels. I have been eyeing the Zen for a long time !

Guy 13

Re: Who's right ?
« Reply #32 on: 27 Jun 2010, 12:00 pm »
Hi Guy 13 ,

You have no problems at all with that setup. The amp can easily drive your 97dB speakers to insane levels  :drool:

Pls let us know how the Niteshade Integrated compares with the Zen Triode 84 for the same listening levels. I have been eyeing the Zen for a long time !
Hi Dinny.
I should get my Niteshade SE-15 amplifiers, probably sometime in August.
I will definitely share my findings will all the Audio Circle members, that’s why I have joined this forum.
If you are not in a hurry, my Decware SE-84C+ (Black chassis) might be for sale toward the end of this year and by the way, it’s a 120V. 50/60Hz unit. I now use it in Vietnam with a step down transformer, where I have been trying to survive doing business with my Vietnamese wife for the last 15 years. When I purchased it new from Decware USA, I wanted to bring it back to my home country Canada (Montreal, Quebec). I might even throw in free of charge some extra Electro Harmonix tubes. I did not use it much, my business keeps me busy 7/7 – 365…
The only minor problem with my two years old amplifier is that one of the input is reverse L & R and I am too lazy to open it up and do the welding, instead I just reverse the interconnects.
As far as the selling price is concern, for now I don’t really know, but not 50% discount from the original price, it’s has been rarely used, I don’t even think it has completed his break in period, might only have 50 hours on the meter… I like that amplifier, the only draw back is the 2wpc output you really need speakers with a minimum of 95db sensivity.
Have a nice day.

Guy 13.
By the way, I have ordered from Danny at GR Research a pair of V2, I will compare them side by side with my V1 both driven by my Niteshade SE-15 amplifier, no need to say that I am so anxious to hear all that stuff, that I dream of it…
My next purchase will be a Rega Apollo CD player and a Rega Exact MM cartridge for my Rega P-3 turntable.
After that I will order from Brian a phono stage amplifier to replace my Bellari VP-129 phono amplifier.
As you can see, my audio hobby keeps me busy and dreaming…
Note : I just saw that you are from Malaysia, therefore, we are neighbour !
I am in Ho Chi Minh City. I often travel for business in Hong Kong.