[Danny Richie]

If you want the shorter height of the W-frame, you can run a horizontal brace (3/4" X 3", say) across the driver openings, from the inside of the left panel to the right. That will minimize the resonance of those panels about as well as they are in an H-frame.

Be careful though or you'll make it to where you can get the woofer in for mounting.

[mlundy57]

Be careful though or you'll make it to where you can get the woofer in for mounting.

Because of the angles involved I was wondering about that.

What's the actual diameter of the mounting ring on the 12" woofers?

Mike

[Danny Richie]

Because of the angles involved I was wondering about that.

What's the actual diameter of the mounting ring on the 12" woofers?

Mike

12.625"

[AKLegal]

Danny do you have the 8 ohm 12 inch servos in yet?  I don't see them on the website.

[Danny Richie]

Danny do you have the 8 ohm 12 inch servos in yet?  I don't see them on the website.

Not yet. They have been completed and will ship next week.

[bdp24]

Because of the angles involved I was wondering about that.

What's the actual diameter of the mounting ring on the 12" woofers?

Mike

Mike, the important dimension in consideration of getting a driver past a brace in a W-frame is not the diameter of the mounting flange, but the depth of the driver. There has to be enough clearance between one of the baffles and (the back end of) the brace for the woof to slide between them. In order to mount it, you must slide the woofer up the surface of the baffle to it's mounting hole. The clearance between the baffle and the brace, therefore, has to be greater than the depth of the woofer. Once it is past the brace, there is no problem getting the woofer into it's mounting hole in the baffle. This all assumes that your W-frames are built per Danny's OB plans for the 12-16FR woofer.

[mlundy57]

Mike, the important dimension in consideration of getting a driver past a brace in a W-frame is not the diameter of the mounting flange, but the depth of the driver. There has to be enough clearance between the baffle (of the front-facing woofer) and (the back end of) the brace for the woof to slide between them. In order to mount it, you must slide the woofer up the surface of the baffle to it's mounting hole. The clearance between the baffle and the brace, therefore, has to be greater than the depth of the woofer. Once it is past the brace, there is no problem getting the woofer into it's mounting hole in the baffle. This all assumes that your W-frames are built per Danny's OB plans for the 12-16FR woofer.

I think I get what you are saying now. If I understand correctly, you are not talking about a brace that would glue up to both side walls and the baffle between the drivers. The type of brace you are talking about will only touch, and be glued to, the two side walls and have a gap between the back of the brace and the baffle greater than the depth of the woofer, correct?

Mike

[bdp24]

Exactly Mike. For instance, a thick closet dowel, or even a 2 X 4, spanning the open cavity of the W-frame, glued to the inside of the two side walls right at the middle (in height) of their front edge. What one could do, for more extreme bracing, is drill holes in each side panel for screws to secure a full depth brace, and install the brace after the front driver is in place. Except that brace might load the front of the woofer slightly (the woofer would fire at the full depth brace at an angle of 45 degrees). Of course, the cavity of an H-frame also loads the woofer to a degree.

[Danny Richie]

Old V-1 Prototypes:



The brace helped a lot. And in this case I screwed it to both walls. The No Rez helped too, but these side panels really needed to be two layers thick.

[baniels]

I wanted to give an update on the flatpacks. I was laid out flat Thursday and Friday last week with some preschool-borne cold. Then I was in Chicago for work Sat-Monday.

Back to cutting last night... this is where it stands:

Half inch parts all cut for 12 pairs. 24 large wings, 24 bases and braces, and 48 small wings. 528 tabs flushed trimmed away (trying to conjure up a vacuum hold down for the next evolution of this machine).

I'll be starting on the baffles this evening. Then onto the table saw work.

[nrenter]

Has any of the woodworkers ever worked with Corian (the solid surface countertop material)?

[simoon]

Has any of the woodworkers ever worked with Corian (the solid surface countertop material)?

I'm not an expert, but talking to a materials engineer a while back, Corian is not anything special. Just filled acrylic.

It is not that well damped. Resonance is good, but not great. Again, nothing special.

Large pieces bend.

[nrenter]

Just curious. It's an attractive material and a speaker like this could play to its strengths (attractive, no large pieces, not being fashioned into a box, etc.). A flat pack could literally be a finished product when assembled. Just thinking "outside the box".

[baniels]

Hey Guys,

I'll be shipping out the first batch today. FYI - I will be out of town for 2 weeks starting tomorrow. If you want to get in on today's shipment, I need to get your order from Danny by 12:00 CST.

[ebag4]

In the meantime, I'm trying to consider the difficulties in gluing this thing up. I have one idea... basically a few clamping supports, that provide parallel edges on the more difficult joints. See the picture below. Red represents the clamping supports... thinking I'd include one or two of each with the kits. The blue lines represent the clamp spans.

The larger L shaped piece could be flipped over and used on the other small wing, and of course both would be usable for the L and R version of the design. Unless I'm overlooking something, the rest of the joints will be 90°. The brace may still need some head scratching, but where's the fun without some of that?

I haven't glued one up yet, so this may evolve with time... I'm sure Danny will have some insight after he puts the first set together.

Feedback... evolution on the idea?

Ben,
I don't recall reading whether you had moved forward with this idea or not.

Danny, what did you end up doing to glue the flatpack up? Any pointers?

[ebag4]

double post

[Captainhemo]

Love the "actin  shots"  Ben,  very  cool

Have any of you guys  who are getting some of the first batch considered/decided on how you'll be finishing  your  Wedgies ?

Looking forward to following a builod thread or two

-jay

[Danny Richie]

The first thing I did was glue the base onto the front baffle. I used the side wings just to make sure it was straight by just holding them on by hand and lining them up to the edges of the front baffle.

After the base was dry then I glued on the large wing. For it I had to add a few clamps on the inside of the front baffle looping through the woofer holes to make a stop so that when I put clamping force on the side wing it didn't allow it to move toward the center of the front baffle.

After it was dry I did the same with the little side wings.

The diagonal was last.

[ebag4]

The first thing I did was glue the base onto the front baffle. I used the side wings just to make sure it was straight by just holding them on by hand and lining them up to the edges of the front baffle.

After the base was dry then I glued on the large wing. For it I had to add a few clamps on the inside of the front baffle looping through the woofer holes to make a stop so that when I put clamping force on the side wing it didn't allow it to move toward the center of the front baffle.

After it was dry I did the same with the little side wings.

The diagonal was last.

Thanks Danny.

[ebag4]

Have any of you guys  who are getting some of the first batch considered/decided on how you'll be finishing  your  Wedgies ?

Yes