Best speaker stand ever.

Captainhemo · « **Reply #40 on:** 22 Oct 2014, 02:01 am »

Quote from: Danny Richie on 22 Oct 2014, 12:37 am

A wedge shape might actually be better and might start to create the null in the rear like it was originally intended. A wedge shape that matches the new LGK Wedgies might be just the ticket.

I was just speaking to Brian about this, and the amps I am using are for an open baffle design. So they have a shelving circuit that helps make the response in an open baffle more linear. These are acting like they are in a ported box. So the shelving circuit may be forcing too much exertion. So Brian is going to send me some instructions on how to by-pass that part of the circuit. That might do the trick.

Well, hopefully bypassing the shelving circuit will help with the exertion issue.
If you were to try a wedge and make it match the wedgies, extending the sides to match the large wing on the wedgies would allow you to move the woofers towards the rear a bit, not sure there would be enough room (depth wise) at the front if it is only as wide as the wedgie baffle (4.5" ?). The more you extened the sides, the bigger the opening would be which I would think would be better for creating the null and stopping the opening from acting like a port....

-jay

OTOH, an H-frame (either 8's or 12's ) may work just as well for the wedgies being they need to be at least 3' off the wall themselves, although having the matching wedge shape would be cool

Danny Richie · « **Reply #41 on:** 22 Oct 2014, 02:24 am »

Quote from: bdp24 on 22 Oct 2014, 01:42 am

Of course, sealing the enclosure (and adjusting its volume for the requirements of the non-OB version of the 8" driver) will increase the output. Are you set on keeping it OB, for use with the Wedges? Do you not want to do an H- or W-frame?

I may also try a wedge shape and see how that works out.

For this application I wanted to keep it small so that it could be used with any stand mounted speaker.

Sealing it and going with the non-OB version of the drivers would have increased the needed air space quite a bit.

nrenter · « **Reply #42 on:** 22 Oct 2014, 02:24 am »

If the "pointed" front of the sub was the same width as the wedgies, you could possibly use this general "enclosure" design for 2.5 way speaker, with addional LGKs in the sub module (wedgie design on top, servo subs optional).

Rocket_Ronny · « **Reply #43 on:** 22 Oct 2014, 02:25 am »

Quote

http://www.scripturesongs.com/Scripture_Songs/FREE_CHRISTIAN_MUSIC.html

How much more space?

Rocket_Ronny

skalos · « **Reply #44 on:** 22 Oct 2014, 07:46 pm »

Dannie,

My self interest is to make a couple of these on which to sit my newly finished N3Ss. I hope to post photos soon.

If the footprint was increased to the same as the N3Ss 8" X 10.65", an extra 1.5" wide, what kind of effect would this have on the OB VS. Ported issue and the bottoming out of the woofers?

If the above is not enough to eliminate the problem, how about a wedge with the front width 8" and the rear width 10"-12".

Best,

Steven

Danny Richie · « **Reply #45 on:** 22 Oct 2014, 07:57 pm »

Quote from: skalos on 22 Oct 2014, 07:46 pm

Dannie,

My self interest is to make a couple of these on which to sit my newly finished N3Ss. I hope to post photos soon.

If the footprint was increased to the same as the N3Ss 8" X 10.65", an extra 1.5" wide, what kind of effect would this have on the OB VS. Ported issue and the bottoming out of the woofers?

If the above is not enough to eliminate the problem, how about a wedge with the front width 8" and the rear width 10"-12".

Best,

Steven

Brian and I think that we are going to have to change some amp setting and remove the shelving circuit for this to work its best in this particular application. So hold on. We're still testing.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #46 on:** 30 Oct 2014, 03:16 am »

Update!

I by-passed the shelving circuit on the amp and now these babies are sounding real good. REAL GOOD! If you have a top notch mini-monitor in a medium to small room then these stands are for you.

Bass is tight and fast. Plays real deep if you want them to. Just a flick of the switch changes extension filters and damping. So the bottom end is real easy to control.

The high pass inline filter I am using removed the lows from the small speakers making them cleaner and more well controlled.

It also allowed me to crank up the bass on bass thin older music or bring it down for bass heavy tracks. Tons of flexibility. Perfect for small rooms that have bass issues.

Captainhemo · « **Reply #47 on:** 30 Oct 2014, 04:01 am »

This is good news Danny, I'm sure many are going to be happy to read this

I have a question that relates to this and rolling off the mini monitor/wedgie etc. Maybe the answer is obvious but I'm not getting it....
It's been sgguested to use a cap on the amps input to roll of the low's which I get. But, in a speaker such as the Wedgie where you don't want them playing much below 200hz, how come the cross over isn't designed to limit what is passed to the 4 LGK's (similar to how the OB M130's are in the OB5/OB7's)?

-jay

Early B. · « **Reply #48 on:** 30 Oct 2014, 04:59 am »

Quote from: Captainhemo on 30 Oct 2014, 04:01 am

This is good news Danny, I'm sure many are going to be happy to read this

I have a question that relates to this and rolling off the mini monitor/wedgie etc. Maybe the answer is obvious but I'm not getting it....
It's been sgguested to use a cap on the amps input to roll of the low's which I get. But, in a speaker such as the Wedgie where you don't want them playing much below 200hz, how come the cross over isn't designed to limit what is passed to the 4 LGK's (similar to how the OB M130's are in the OB5/OB7's)?

I asked this question a couple of months ago, and Danny's response was that the filters are a simple solution. In fact, I proposed two different crossover designs for the Wedgies -- one of them for customers who will be using servo subs crosssed over fairly high. The problem with the filters is that they are not inexpensive. Even though the caps are of high quality, the signal still has to pass through two sets of RCA connectors and some wire. I prefer not to have filters, adapters, or anything else attached to my cables that could potentially degrade the sound.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #49 on:** 30 Oct 2014, 04:11 pm »

Quote from: Captainhemo on 30 Oct 2014, 04:01 am

This is good news Danny, I'm sure many are going to be happy to read this

I have a question that relates to this and rolling off the mini monitor/wedgie etc. Maybe the answer is obvious but I'm not getting it....
It's been sgguested to use a cap on the amps input to roll of the low's which I get. But, in a speaker such as the Wedgie where you don't want them playing much below 200hz, how come the cross over isn't designed to limit what is passed to the 4 LGK's (similar to how the OB M130's are in the OB5/OB7's)?

-jay

An passive filter like this placed after the amp would require a cap value of 100 to 200uF. That can cause a lot of coloration and smearing.

The cap value needed before the amp can vary with input impedance but is often between .01 and .047uF. It is a very small value. And since it is very small a high quality cap can be used without breaking the bank.

And the overall sound is MUCH better.

It also means your amp doesn't have any current demand on it as it is not asked to produce those longer wavelengths. So your amp doesn't get hot and you have a lot more headroom.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #50 on:** 30 Oct 2014, 04:15 pm »

Quote from: Early B. on 30 Oct 2014, 04:59 am

I asked this question a couple of months ago, and Danny's response was that the filters are a simple solution. In fact, I proposed two different crossover designs for the Wedgies -- one of them for customers who will be using servo subs crosssed over fairly high. The problem with the filters is that they are not inexpensive. Even though the caps are of high quality, the signal still has to pass through two sets of RCA connectors and some wire. I prefer not to have filters, adapters, or anything else attached to my cables that could potentially degrade the sound.

You can simply mount the coupling cap internally in your amp right on the RCA input and add nothing else to the signal path.

You could also use some very good and very inexpensive Gen.2 Sonicaps if you want: http://www.soniccraft.com/index.php?cPath=301_49_51

Hugh · « **Reply #51 on:** 30 Oct 2014, 09:15 pm »

I'd like to try these with our Trinity to see how much better the combination can get.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #52 on:** 30 Oct 2014, 09:34 pm »

Quote from: Hugh on 30 Oct 2014, 09:15 pm

I'd like to try these with our Trinity to see how much better the combination can get.

Now that this worked out really well, I will draw you the cabinet plans from my sketch and make it available as a kit.

I will make the high pass filters available too.

Send me a pair of those speakers and I'll see how far I can take them up the performance ladder for you.

AKLegal · « **Reply #53 on:** 30 Oct 2014, 10:49 pm »

How wide would it need to be so that the rear opening stops behaving like a port?

Danny Richie · « **Reply #54 on:** 31 Oct 2014, 02:05 am »

Quote from: AKLegal on 30 Oct 2014, 10:49 pm

How wide would it need to be so that the rear opening stops behaving like a port?

Good question. I am testing them in a wedge shape (like the LGK Wedgie kit) next.

Hugh · « **Reply #55 on:** 1 Nov 2014, 04:46 pm »

Thanks for the offer Danny but we are good with where the Trinity is.

I am just curious as to what this new toy of yours can add to the Trinity's performance.

Quote from: Danny Richie on 30 Oct 2014, 09:34 pm

Now that this worked out really well, I will draw you the cabinet plans from my sketch and make it available as a kit.

I will make the high pass filters available too.

Send me a pair of those speakers and I'll see how far I can take them up the performance ladder for you.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #56 on:** 1 Nov 2014, 05:39 pm »

Quote from: Hugh on 1 Nov 2014, 04:46 pm

Thanks for the offer Danny but we are good with where the Trinity is.

I am just curious as to what this new toy of yours can add to the Trinity's performance.

Why settle for just good? I might be able to make them great.

The powered bases will make them a full range speaker. I can also get you some inline filters to pull the lows off of them and allow the mid-bass and vocal area to be clearer.

undertow · « **Reply #57 on:** 5 Nov 2014, 09:01 pm »

Hmm.. I guess I am a little confused as it looks like these stands have the open baffle servo subs "side" firing in an oppossed configuration?

I asked about this type of setup before and was told that Open baffle will not work well this way and the woofers would have to be facing toward the listening position.

Maybe I am mixing something up here.

ebag4 · « **Reply #58 on:** 5 Nov 2014, 09:08 pm »

Quote from: undertow on 5 Nov 2014, 09:01 pm

Hmm.. I guess I am a little confused as it looks like these stands have the open baffle servo subs "side" firing in an oppossed configuration?

I asked about this type of setup before and was told that Open baffle will not work well this way and the woofers would have to be facing toward the listening position.

Maybe I am mixing something up here.

H Frame alignments have a null to the sides, I believe the new stand Danny is working on is a U alignment and has a null to the rear (open end), not the sides.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #59 on:** 5 Nov 2014, 09:18 pm »

It doesn't really have any null pattern. There is only a slight null in the lower ranges to the sides.

Red line is dead on. Orange is 45 degrees off axis. Yellow is 90 degrees off axis (down a little). Green is 45 degrees off axis to the back side (135 degrees around). The Blue line is 180 degrees around to the back side.

These are in room responses with no time window gating.