[bladesmith]

What would be wrong with extending the front and side panels, making it a tower speaker. Then adding a 12" woofer facing outward on the lower half ?

[Folsom]

What would be wrong with extending the front and side panels, making it a tower speaker. Then adding a 12" woofer facing outward on the lower half ?

I wouldn't want vibrations from the sub destroying the superb detail of the LGK's. However, it could appear that the panel continued. Have you seen Danny's ultimate speaker stand? I think you could mimic it with a similar shape to the LGKN OB array but not be connected directly. I'm sure someone else can weigh in better.

[mlundy57]

Got a little more done. I have the edge banding applied and the crossover networks built.

Here are some shots of the edge banding









Here are the crossovers



I really should have made them more compact. They turned out at least a couple of inches too long and are going to have to hang over the back.





Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to get the outsides veneered then get the finish applied to everything this weekend.  Then it will be wire them up and go.

Mike

[ebag4]

Looking good Mike.  I had the same idea regarding locating the tube connectors on the crossover board.  Unfortunately I didn't think about it until I had already glued the connector board to the main speaker assembly.

[Keithh]

Here a picture of the crossover. It is a 4x6 piece of 3/4" walnut hollowed out 1/2" deep on the backside
with 1/4" sides. End with the tube connectors is 3/4" thick. So all the wiring and soldering is underneath and
if anyone notices the resistor is missing it is underneath.

This is the 1/2" walnut top cap. Used dowels on the large wing and the baffle. The brace uses screws. Ran a 1/2" solid carbide
spiral flush trim bit around the top of the speaker. Notice it cracked, 1/2" is really thin for walnut with the grain running
that direction. At least it will be easy to fix with some fine sandpaper, a Q-tip and Watco.

[jparkhur]

?  Why are the caps different on these xo's  One is a 10 and one is a 9?


P

[mlundy57]

Here a picture of the crossover. It is a 4x6 piece of 3/4" walnut hollowed out 1/2" deep on the backside
with 1/4" sides. End with the tube connectors is 3/4" thick. So all the wiring and soldering is underneath and
if anyone notices the resistor is missing it is underneath.

This is the 1/2" walnut top cap. Used dowels on the large wing and the baffle. The brace uses screws. Ran a 1/2" solid carbide
spiral flush trim bit around the top of the speaker. Notice it cracked, 1/2" is really thin for walnut with the grain running
that direction. At least it will be easy to fix with some fine sandpaper, a Q-tip and Watco.

That is really clean and very sharp, both the cap and the crossover. Doing a cap that way looks like it would be a lot easier than gluing on and trimming a bunch of small veneer strips like I did. I'm going to have to remember this.

 How did you hollow out the underside of the crossover, a pattern bit?

Mike

[mlundy57]

?  Why are the caps different on these xo's  One is a 10 and one is a 9?


P

If you look a little closer you will notice there are two sets of numbers on each cap. One is the factory etched nominal value and the other is the actual value Danny measured and wrote on the cap with a Sharpie. When he puts the kits together, the cap values are matched as close as possible.

Mike

[mlundy57]

I have this pair of cabinets finished. I went with less depth and a lower gloss finish than I put on the N3's









I should get them wired up in the next couple of days.

Mike

[gregfisk]

Stunning Mike, wonderfully done. Looking forward to your impressions of the sound.

Greg

[ebag4]

Nice mike, I love that veneer, great job!

[PDR]

Simpy gorgeous..outstanding...

[Captainhemo]

Nicely done  man ,  wow 
Figured that veneer was going to be something special, as Greg says,  "Stunning"

[mlundy57]

Thanks everybody.

Lots of lessons learned with these.

Beginning to wire things up. It looks these drivers will be easier to wire up mounted to the baffle. All except the bottom woofer. It's going to have to be wired up then attached to the baffle. There is not enough room for me to get to the terminals.

I may have them playing by tomorrow night but I won't have the inline filters built and I will have to have them playing with a single sealed sub so I won't be getting the full effect yet.

Mike

[Captainhemo]

Mike
You've probably already thought of this but  is that single sealed sub going to  make it up to  the 200hz  area  ?

-jay

[rockdrummer]

I know it isn't a big deal to wire up the driver then install it, but in the future that bottom one or two drivers could be cut with the terminal openings on top to make them all accessible after being mounted, couldn't they? I know I didn't like laying the drivers down to solder in the monitor kits I built. Just thinking out loud.

Lookings terrific btw. Love the black/veneer contrast.

Ben

[ebag4]

I know it isn't a big deal to wire up the driver then install it, but in the future that bottom one or two drivers could be cut with the terminal openings on top to make them all accessible after being mounted, couldn't they?

I had the same thought, in reality I could have simply turned the baffle upside down, still I think having all of the wiring terminations pointing to the middle of the baffle would be a plus.

[mlundy57]

Mike
You've probably already thought of this but  is that single sealed sub going to  make it up to  the 200hz  area  ?

-jay

Jay,

Not sure how things are going to work out in the short run for a few reasons:

1) I don't know what the -6dB point is for the Wedges without the inline filter. The graphs Danny posted back on page 16 of this thread look like the -6 point is at 200Hz but I don't know if that is with or without the inline filter.

2) As a point of reference, the crossover control on the A370PEQ goes up to 120Hz and Danny said this will easily blend with the Wedges, even using the inline filter which limits the low end extension of the Wedges (crosses over higher than without the filter).

3) According to the user's manual, my 10" VR-S1 sealed sub has a 50 Hz to 100 Hz variable crossover with Linkwist- Riley slopes. I don't know what that means for where the -6dB point is going to be above 100Hz, especially since the specs use the term slopes, plural. 

4) I also have the 8" ported X-Sub I built awhile back. The crossover control on the amp I used (Yung SD300-6) goes up to 200Hz.

5) I don't have any type of analysis software or equipment so I only have my ears to work with.

My preference is to use the VR-S1 since this is designed for music and sounds much cleaner than the X-Sub. Any insights and/or suggestions would be welcome.

By the way, I have one wired up and working. One more to go.

Mike

[Captainhemo]

Jay,

Not sure how things are going to work out in the short run for a few reasons:

1) I don't know what the -6dB point is for the Wedges without the inline filter. The graphs Danny posted back on page 16 of this thread look like the -6 point is at 200Hz but I don't know if that is with or without the inline filter.

2) As a point of reference, the crossover control on the A370PEQ goes up to 120Hz and Danny said this will easily blend with the Wedges, even using the inline filter which limits the low end extension of the Wedges (crosses over higher than without the filter).

3) According to the user's manual, my 10" VR-S1 sealed sub has a 50 Hz to 100 Hz variable crossover with Linkwist- Riley slopes. I don't know what that means for where the -6dB point is going to be above 100Hz, especially since the specs use the term slopes, plural. 

4) I also have the 8" ported X-Sub I built awhile back. The crossover control on the amp I used (Yung SD300-6) goes up to 200Hz.

5) I don't have any type of analysis software or equipment so I only have my ears to work with.

My preference is to use the VR-S1 since this is designed for music and sounds much cleaner than the X-Sub. Any insights and/or suggestions would be welcome.

By the way, I have one wired up and working. One more to go.

Mike

Pretty cool you've  just about got them wired up

Not sure I can be a whole lot of help with your  above points

1.  I'd assume that the 200hz  is what the wedgies will do without a filter,   then "you'd"  build your filter accordingly.

2. Yeah,  wasn't  referring to the  A370/GR servo subs that you're planning as I know they'll easily play up , beliee Danny has mentioned  up to 300hz in the past.

3/4.  I'm pretty cluessless when it comes to this stuff so I could be  way off here but,  the Linkwist- Riley slpe is 12db/octave if I'm  right.  So if you set the crossover on your 10" VR-S1 to 100hz,  would that not  put you  -18db / 200hz (-6 @ 100 +-12 in the doubling of frequency to 200hz) ?
At low volumes,  the 8" X sub may work out  better .....
Like  you mentioned,  you're going to just have to try  both your options out and see which works best for you.

5.  I'd like to get a mic as well, been  looking at the Dayton USB mic PE sells.  It would be something  to get started with.
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-umm-6-usb-measurement-microphone--390-808

You can DL  REW  here
http://www.roomeqwizard.com/

-jay

[ebag4]

Mike, with regard to the servo amp being adjustable to 120hz, see Brian's response to a similar question below:

The amplifier is also used for a sealed version which has an upper limit of 120hz limit by servo operation. The OB physical design can extend a bit higher (Danny can answer that).  The actual LPF circuit itself has 200hz extension (12db/oct). That is also why Danny can use OB sub up to 200hz for super V. On the decal, the 80hz point is correct.  So for OB operation, the xover knob between 80hz and 120hz is actually 80hz to 200hz.

I know this can be a bit confusing. But it is a bit more difficult for us to have too many versions of same amp with one for each driver type.