[mlundy57]

Any updates?

+1  Inquiring minds would like to know

[baniels]

Hey guys. All the blame is on me for the delay. This type of design is new in a few ways for me. For one, creating the wave guide on the baffle required using a new type of cutting tool, new methods to experiment with for toolpaths, etc.

That part is solved, but I am also trying to figure out how to best get the appropriate angles on the pieces. I don't have a table saw in my shop, nor do I really have the space for one. Almost everything I do involves 90 degree cuts and angles. The cabinet design elements that I've perfected are all geared toward simpler box geometry.

For the miter angles I am using my traditional router table and various bits (this design needing just at 11.25 degrees). There is a lot of opportunity for it to not be perfect and when the angles are not dead on perfect, the joint will not work out. I have high expectations for the quality of my work that I don't want to betray.

The other problem I foresee is in the assembly. Applying clamping pressure at these angles without jigs will be a challenge. I welcome any tips if anyone can see how I could design this to go together as easily as the LGK.

Anyhow, I am still working through it. Here are some pics of the baffles.

[ebag4]

Ben, the baffles look great!  I have considered the clamping angle issue, for myself, I will likely use brads to hold it in place along with clamps.  Another thought I had was to use hot melt glue to temporarily glue a strip in place for the sides to buck up against while drying, along those same lines you could simply nail or screw a temporary strip in place, we would have to be certain not to glue the temporary piece in place with the side .  Another possible solution would be to route a angled groove into the back of the baffle, however being at the edge I don't think that will work too well.

Danny, for those of us that really only need the baffle, is there any chance of releasing a kit with the baffle only.  Sorry guys, not trying to leave anyone out but with my design I won't be using the big side of the kit anyway.

Best,
Ed

[baniels]

Baffle only could be a reality quick quickly from my side. That part has been solved. I could send some to Danny tomorrow for him to sign off on.

[ebag4]

Ben, will the baffle be rounded off on the edges and backs of the driver cutouts or is what is shown as far as you will take them?  No issue really, just curious.

Thanks,
Ed

[ebag4]

What if instead of having the sides cut off at the 100 degree angle you left a little like this (my widths aren't to scale but you get the gist):



edit, I believe I missed your real issue with the angle....nevermind!

[mlundy57]

Ben,

Looks really good.

Just the baffles and a set of plans would be all I need.

In addition to just the baffles you could offer the whole kit without any edges beveled. In this case consider leaving any piece that needs to be beveled an inch or so wide on the edges that need a bevel.  That way there will be material to work with when cutting the bevels.

Gluing up an odd angle will probably require some type of jig. Here is a picture of one I found in Fine Woodworking magazine. 



You cut a couple pieces of hardwood to the required angle. Drill at least two holes for clamps (one for each face). Then clamp the jig tight into the corner while the glue sets.  You will need to put wax or something on the jig to keep the glue from sticking to it. For a wide board like the large wing you will need two of these jigs, one for each side.

If the person doing the glue up doesn't plan on rounding over the edges they can use brads to pin the pieces together as well.

Mike

[baniels]

ebag4: Yes, I will use a big roundover on the back side of the

Mike: Cutting the baffle extra wide would be no problem.

[mlundy57]

Ben,

Depending on the way the design is laid out you may not need to cut the baffle itself extra wide. If the design has the bevels cut on the wings then butted to the baffle (which is what your drawing looks like) the wings would need to be extra wide (or long depending on how you are looking at it) but the baffle would not need to be extra wide.

However, if you are planning on cutting half the angle on the baffle and half on the wing (then glue up a mitered joint) both pieces would need extra material.  This would not be my preferred method. Mitered joints are a bear and I would much rather avoid them whenever possible.

I would much prefer a straight baffle with enough material on the wings to cut the full bevel on the wing then do a second straight cut on the other end of the wing for correct length. I have found that using a single cut for both setting the bevel and cutting to final length is a sure recipe for either a bad joint, a short piece or both.  The two cut method (first cut the bevel on one end then straight cut the other end to length) works best for me.

Mike

[mlundy57]

Ben,

What are the dimensions of the base?

Mike

[ebag4]

Ben,

What are the dimensions of the base?

Mike

Mike, have you heard something about the baffle being available?

[mlundy57]

A couple of days ago Ben said he could send some to Danny to be sure they were OK before making them available.

Mike

[ebag4]

A couple of days ago Ben said he could send some to Danny to be sure they were OK before making them available.

Mike

OK, thanks Mike.  I had not read if the baffles were shipped or if Danny is even willing to sell the kit with the baffle only.

Best,
Ed

[Danny Richie]

As soon as the flat pack arrives I will assemble it and set it up right away and test everything to make sure all is good.

The side wings are a very important part of the design and must be as designed in order to get the correct results. So I recommend the complete flat pack from Ben. Besides the wings and braces are small and won't cost much at all. So you really are going to save much by trying to make them yourself.

[ebag4]

Thanks Danny.  If the wing comment was a response to my not using the wing supplied in the kit, I realize I have to have the wings, however with the speaker I am building I will need a longer one than what is supplied in the kit.

Best,
Ed

[mlundy57]

As soon as the flat pack arrives I will assemble it and set it up right away and test everything to make sure all is good.

The side wings are a very important part of the design and must be as designed in order to get the correct results. So I recommend the complete flat pack from Ben. Besides the wings and braces are small and won't cost much at all. So you really are going to save much by trying to make them yourself.

It's not the cost that's an issue. Ben is having a lot of trouble getting the 100 degree angles cut with a router. This is a simple cut with a table saw but Ben does not have a table saw. Routers are not designed to cut bevels unless you have a bit for the specific angle you need. This is the current problem as I understand it.

One solution I mentioned earlier is to leave all the wing pieces cut square but make them enough oversized that we can cut the bevels ourselves. 

I'm more than happy to buy the complete kit. Just trying to think of a solution that wouldn't require Ben buying a table saw or rebuilding his CNC router so it can pivot in the vertical plane.

Mike

[ebag4]

It's not the cost that's an issue. Ben is having a lot of trouble getting the 100 degree angles cut with a router. This is a simple cut with a table saw but Ben does not have a table saw. Routers are not designed to cut bevels unless you have a bit for the specific angle you need. This is the current problem as I understand it.

One solution I mentioned earlier is to leave all the wing pieces cut square but make them enough oversized that we can cut the bevels ourselves. 

I'm more than happy to buy the complete kit. Just trying to think of a solution that wouldn't require Ben buying a table saw or rebuilding his CNC router so it can pivot in the vertical plane.

Mike

+1

As Mike stated, the cuts that Ben is having issues with are easily completed with a table saw.  Many of us are able to cut those pieces ourselves, however I realize that there are a number of us that are wanting a complete flatpack as well. 

If you choose to wait for the complete flatpack that is fine, however there are likely a number of us who would be willing to purchase the baffle and build the rest of the kit ourselves, we would only need the required dimensions.

My $.02.

Thanks,
Ed

[Danny Richie]

Oh okay. Maybe I need to get Ben a new table saw.....

[baniels]

Guys,

In the meantime, here's a video of the waveguide being machined. http://youtu.be/BwR9w5GY9bc

I appreciate all the input above. A table saw is what I need, and this is a good chamber of motivation for that end. The Incra fence on my router table is great, but it doesn't absorb the shortcomings of this approach. Too many variables between material thickness, split-fence offsets, etc.

Danny and I are discussing some options on how this can roll out... The guys who just want baffle will be the easiest to serve. These are the dimensions I'm working with right now [see below], but with a table saw this could go down to a simple 100 degrees if there's a difference in performance and I'm not limited by the available chamfer bits.

If I were to sell baffles with a 90 degree edge, how much oversize would you want on the width?

[lostthumb]

Danny and I are discussing some options on how this can roll out... The guys who just want baffle will be the easiest to serve. These are the dimensions I'm working with right now [see below], but with a table saw this could go down to a simple 100 degrees if there's a difference in performance and I'm not limited by the available chamfer bits.

There is a company in Houston that grinds carbide endmills for our shop.  They can do angles.  Would this work?