[DeeJayBump]

I have an issue in one of my Wedgies that I need help troubleshooting. I'm getting no sound from the Neo3 in one of them. To this point, I have confirmed that the issue is with one particular Wedgie by swapping the channel/speaker cables and the speaker in question has no sound from the Neo3 regardless of amp channel or speaker cable config. The LGK drivers  ARE  playing seemingly fine [ I can feel cone movement when touching them while playing] in the affected speaker.

So, I need help troubleshooting whether the issue is the Neo3 itself or something in the crossover. Thanks.

[DeeJayBump]

The Wedgies were working correctly before this, and the issue seems to have started when connected to a DIY amp [Folsom 7297] that was faulty. A cap or two was fried in the Folsom, and since that time [1-2 months] while waiting on replacement parts for the Folsom amp, the Wedgies have not been played. Currently have the Wedgies connected to a temp amp [SMSL Q5] for testing purposes while the Folsom is fixed.

[SoCalWJS]

Only things I can think of are to check all of the connections that you can inside of the speakers - solder joints in the crossover and to the driver itself.

EDIT - looks like you posted your update at the same time I posted. That probably changes things. I’d still check all the connections/solder joints I could.

[DeeJayBump]

How can I measure the Neo3 to determine [de-soldered, of course] to determine if it is either at fault or working correctly?

[mlundy57]

One way is to use an ohm meter. The Neo 3 should read 4 ohms. Another way would be to connect a pair of speaker cables to it and play sine waves from 2k-10k and see what happens. I’m sure Danny has other ways to check the driver. You could always send it to him to evaluate

[DeeJayBump]

Thanks, Mike.

I will de-solder it, test it with a DMM, and I happen to have Stereophile Test CDs that have 2.5kHz - 20khz test tones that I will also test it with.

Will report back on my findings.

[HAL]

You may not need to desolder the tweeter. 

Just measure the good tweeter at its terminals and compare the data to the one not working.  They should both should be close to the same value. 

Post both measurements to check.

[S Clark]

You may not need to desolder the tweeter. 

Just measure the good tweeter at its terminals and compare the data to the one not working.  They should both should be close to the same value. 

Post both measurements to check.

Good advice, Rich.  Easy, and should show if its a burned out voice coil. 

[DeeJayBump]

Already de-soldered and measured resistance of the suspect Neo3, and it reads OL.

Do I need to test anything further to confirm this Neo3 is now defective, or will this do it? I can run the 2.5Khz - 20khz tones through it if that will do any good.

Thanks, Rich, testing both drivers without de-soldering in the future and comparing measurements will be handy.

[S Clark]

For us old and slow guys, what does OL mean?  I'm assuming it means infinite resistance, and the tweeter wiring has a break (burned out from amp failure).  But, just because it doesn't cost anything, can you get to a point where you can see the wires going from the terminal into the voice coil?  A break there can be repaired.

[HAL]

Scott,
I always like to try simple checks at first.

DeeJayBump,

You are welcome.

Sounds like the non-working NEO3 driver has a bad driver diaphragm coil.  It is dead since it is an open circuit (OL measurement). 

You will need to talk to Danny about a replacement NEO3.

[DeeJayBump]

Scott, I will take the Neo3 out and see if I can find a break in the wires from terminals to voice coil for a possible fix before contacting Danny for a replacement.

Measured from 400 ohm to 4 Mohm, all read the same OL [more resistance than the DMM]  (Fluke 87 in this case) can measure.

Thanks for the help so far.

[DeeJayBump]

Okay, it doesn't look like I can get to the wiring/voice coils without likely destroying the Neo3. Pics included so that you can see the red circled areas on the film side of the Neo3 that appear to be where the terminals lead to or terminate at. Also note the terminal side adhesive, and the sandwiched part of the terminals that is adhered with what looks like glue, is only between @ 1/8 inch and 3/16" thick. I cannot make out any wires that can be accessed from either side of the Neo3 since they appear to contained in the terminal sandwich area.

It looks like an easy repair is unlikely, so I will have to get a replacement Neo3 from Danny.

Red circled areas that the terminals lead/connect to:


Terminal sandwich + adhesive: