[G E]

I have followed Shaukat's RM 60 build and am now seriously considering having a bash at doing a pair myself!

The hitch in the giddyup are the neopanels.

Ideally I need 12 of them, reasonably matched.

I do have a fine working pair of RM 30's which I "could" part out and have 6.  I'd then harvest the megawoofers and with my two spares, have the needed six.  But I really don't want to do this.  Ideally I'd like to keep them for use in the hometheater.

So I'm putting out a call for the latest edition of neopanels.

If you have a spare or two, please post a reply here.  I can't really move forward until I have a handle on the neopanels.

John Casler, if you can check with Mrs. Cheney for any inventory, I'd be much obliged.

Thanks All!

Greg

[John Casler]

I'll check with Brian's widow, but I am pretty sure she was down to the last few some time ago.

[Stimpy]

Not a great picture, but these look correct.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MONSOON-MM-2000-Awesome-Flat-Panel-Speakers-60-Watt-Each-W-O-Subwoofer-/143631761321

[Stimpy]

These too:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MONSOON-MM-2000-4-1-Channel-340-watt-Flat-Panel-Computer-Speaker-subwoofer-Systm-/283832452269

[GeorgeAb]

The idea of cannibalizing a perfectly good working set of RM-30’s is heresy.  The RM-30 are a sweet spot in number of panels, internal volume with appealing frontal size, easily moved, placed against the rear wall, do not overwhelm a room, and are an excellent performer. I focused on spare parts to keep my RM-30's around for my lifetime which include a set of Aurum Cantus G2Si tweeters, a set of spare ribbons, some neo-panels, and a set of woofers. I personally am not chasing the dragon. 

Monsoon MM-702, MM-1000 and MM-2000 models have the correct panels. Still have to verify it is the correct type of panel. Post #62 in this thread https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=113470.60 discusses difference in panels so you know what to look for. 

They will need to be modified which will require drilling out rivets and replacing with a nut and screw and 14 AWG Non-Insulated #4 Stud Ring Terminal to modify the panel.  Same post #62 along with #64 discussed the modification process.
 
I just measured three panels and all measured 3 ohms at the end of the wires so likely 2.8 ish at the panel which is the same as my RM-30’s which are circa 2006. Two separate purchases, and I recall my MM-702 set were also around 3 ohms. Just checked yes 3 ohms at the end of wires. 

The MM-702 system is quite nice, can use in office, work out room, etc. and if you ever need a spare panel you will have to cannibalize.

Stimpy pointed 8 panels so they are out there; will take some patience to get all the panels at a decent price. If you take a look at past sales, you can get an idea of prices.

The megawoofers can be purchased from Misco, part number LLC62W-8A. I purchase four for my RM-30 Series II upgrade back in 2018 for $56 each. 

[Stimpy]

As pointed out by dubravko, in the other thread, it's important to look for the later generation panel, with 13 apertures.  Most of Brian's RM designs appeared to use that panel.  You can also spot it by the curvy fluted edges around the apertures.  You can see the fluted edges in the picture I posted, of the 4 panels on the 'sub'.  The earlier panels had 8 apertures and measured around 3 Ohms.  So, I don't think they would match up well, as the impedance was too low.  The correct panels measure around 6 Ohms.  Though, I'm going from memory.  I can dig up samples of each, and remeasure them, if needed?

[GeorgeAb]

Stimpy, on panel resistance, you may want to check the information on early panels measuring around 3 ohms. 

In approximately 2005 the panel resistance went from 4.5 ohms to 2.8 ohms (3 ohm ish). 

From this thread https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=80672.msg787257#msg787257 post #14 and #15 Brian responded to someone who had a 2.7ohm panel all the others were 4.7 ohms.  Brian stated (May 2010) "It appears the top panel has been replaced.  The 4.5 Ohm panels have been unavailable for about 5 years."  My RM-30 circa 2006 measure 2.8 ohms and from Shauck728 V60 build: "Some were 2.6 ohms, some were 2.8 Ohms and a few were 3.0 and 3.3 ohm." 
 
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=80672.msg787257#msg787257 post #14 and #15

I pulled the 4 midrange panels and found that the top
one is 2.7 ohms DC resistance.  The other 3 are about
4.7 ohms.  The top panel looks identical but newer was
there a revision in the panels?  Is this the correct
configuration or should they all be the same? 
I was very careful in taking the measurements and made
sure that there were no shorts across the traces where
the contact is made.

Brian Cheney
It appears the top panel has been replaced.  The 4.5 Ohm panels have been unavailable for about 5 years.  You can add a 2 Ohm series resistor to the top panel to return the array to its former impedance of 4.6 Ohms.

[GeorgeAb]

Here are three panels and four woofers:  https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ele/d/el-sobrante-vmps-rm-30/7140761011.html

I speculate this person purchased the remaining VMPS inventory. They occasionally post "VMPS Award winning speaker cabinets" here was last time posted.  https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ele/d/pinole-vmps-award-winning-speaker/7064875110.html No longer active, but I remember seeing RM-40, 626 and an LRC cabinets, also a bunch of boxes. I reached out an asked about panels and the person responded "I can still get some for $120 a piece. Let me know how many you want." I came back with I would take 3 and I got back "Yes, still looking for more panels . There are 3 in the complete rm30 I have advertised." That was back in March and I never heard back.

[Stimpy]

Yea, those ads are from Pat Malaga, an AC member.  Pat bought all of the VMPS inventory, after Brian passed.  He's been offering parts for VMPS speakers for quite some time.  I even emailed about buying that RM30, and the matching empty cabinet.  But, the virus hit, and my plans got side lined.

[GeorgeAb]

This is supplemental information on re-purpose panels to support your VMPS speakers. Post #4 above described what to look for and purchase, here is how I removed rivets and replaced with #4 screw, nut and spring washer and #4 ring terminal for 14 gauge wire Molex part number 19069-0099.

This is my experience and is for guidance only so if you mess up your panel its on you.      

The idea is to remove rivet while preserving the integrity of the tinned copper foil on the ring terminal (back) side of neo panel. 
What NOT to do.  Do not drill out rivet with drill as the rivet will likely turn with drill bit when it starts to become loose and subsequently tear up copper foil.

I used a Dremel with cutting wheel.  Wheels are usually larger so I wore it down to a smaller diameter.  I removed material from rivet with the cutting wheel on opposite side of rivet head until I was close to board.  I then took a dental pick and removed the last bit of material.  I then placed my finger on the copper foil side to hold foil against circuit card and gently pressed out rivet.  Copper foil was perfectly preserved. I touched the wheel on a neo case so I used a indelible Sharpie to bring it back to look like new.  Cleaned everything up with isopropyl alcohol and tooth brush.
 
Below are pictures of tools used and process. 

[John Casler]

Darn, I wish I knew your technique 7 months ago.

I trashed at least 15 old panels that had developed the dreaded BUZZ.