AudioCircle
Industry Circles => Bryston Limited => Topic started by: Waker on 15 Sep 2010, 07:04 am
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I am very impressed with HiFi Tuning ceramic/gold fuses for the midrange and tweeter in my Magnepan 3.6Rs--more clarity, more air. After careful listening, I stand by this assessment. Now I am wondering what they would do, if anything, in my 7BSST-2 amps. Has anyone tried them or another make of fuse, and what are your results? Using them in the speakers, at the end of the signal path, seems to make more sense. The tiny filaments in the stock fuses appear as a final obstruction to all that power and finesse. The better fuses act more like a straight wire while still providing protection. Can stock fuses within the amps act in a similar way to constrict energy at some point?
And, can someone please provide the sizes, amperage ratings and whether they are slow/fast blow? I want to duplicate all values. James, would you have any further advice/warnings on this idea?
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I am very impressed with HiFi Tuning ceramic/gold fuses for the midrange and tweeter in my Magnepan 3.6Rs--more clarity, more air. After careful listening, I stand by this assessment. Now I am wondering what they would do, if anything, in my 7BSST-2 amps. Has anyone tried them or another make of fuse, and what are your results? Using them in the speakers, at the end of the signal path, seems to make more sense. The tiny filaments in the stock fuses appear as a final obstruction to all that power and finesse. The better fuses act more like a straight wire while still providing protection. Can stock fuses within the amps act in a similar way to constrict energy at some point?
And, can someone please provide the sizes, amperage ratings and whether they are slow/fast blow? I want to duplicate all values. James, would you have any further advice/warnings on this idea?
Hi,
Just be sure the fuse ratings are the same.
james
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Or you could leave the perfectly fine fuses that ship with the unit in place, and use the money to buy some music.
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use the money to buy some music
Whanafi, I see you are no fan of fuse tweaks---on what basis? I am looking for reports of fuse trials in amps based on real-world experience--that is, from listeners who have actually tried them.
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Oh oh.... tweak debate.
I agree fuses in the power supply rails might possibly make a difference for some users.
I too have Magnepan 3.6's with upscale fuses in the mid and tweet fuse holders. I also added the small choke recommended in the treble attenuation slot.
But I will hold off on the fuses in my 4B-SST2 amp for now.
Hard to say if they really can make a difference without actually trying them.
With the 7B's since you have two amps.. you COULD put them in one and compare and let us all know how it sounds with and without.
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Whanafi, I see you are no fan of fuse tweaks---on what basis? I am looking for reports of fuse trials in amps based on real-world experience--that is, from listeners who have actually tried them.
Careful Waker. Your post implies that Whanafi has not auditioned fuses and is posting out of ignorance. I've seen it happen too often that this assumption is most often the start of a thread killing conflagration . I can't imagine that you would want to do that to your own thread :D.
Regards,
Bill
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I didn't realize that Bryston amps had fuses,I know there is the breaker on the back :o.
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Kind of makes sense for the Maggies- the fuses are right in the signal path, part of the speaker wiring. If the amp fuses are also in line with the speaker wire (I'm in the dark on this one, but it kind of makes sense), then if you're concerned about the quality of your speaker wire, you may also be concerned about the quality of the fuses.
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Best test is straight wire vs a fuse.
james
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Best test is straight wire vs a fuse.
james
What wire though :lol:
My apologies, I couldn't help myself.
Tom
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What wire though :lol:
My apologies, I couldn't help myself.
Tom
Hi Tom - good one :lol:
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I guess all bryston amps have fuses,sq,sst ect.
Surprized my 28 manual says NOTHING about fuses,just the magnetic breaker on the back
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James, you are not suggesting I put a wire in my 7s? :lol:
I have seen a pic of a soldered bypass wire on a fuse for the Maggies. I am just not into that.
How many fuses are in a 7B?
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I will check on the fuse number tomorrow for you. I think the model number tells you how many fuses :D
James
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That's not funny :o
Damn, I never thought to check on the fuses when my 4B came back from being recapped, I have no idea how old they are, and the amp will be 30 next June.
Maybe I should pull them for fresh just to be safe, and put what's in there aside as emergency backups. :scratch:
. I think the model number tells you how many fuses :D
James
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I will check on the fuse number tomorrow for you.
Thanks James--now I want to make this tweak. Just curious, is there a history within Bryston of testing amps without the final fused path that is placed in consumer amps?
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I find wrapping the fuse in good quality tin foil really improves things . :duh:
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James,
Is the Bryston warranty still valid if boutique audio fuses are used that have no safety testing or approval with any of the electrical testing agencies (UL, CSA, TUV, CE, etc.)?
Steve
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James,
Is the Bryston warranty still valid if boutique audio fuses are used that have no safety testing or approval with any of the electrical testing agencies (UL, CSA, TUV, CE, etc.)?
Steve
Good question!
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Hi,
SST SQ versions of the 4B has 1 fuse the 7B's have NO fuses. 28B's NO fuses, 3B - 1 fuse, 2B LP - 2 fuses, 2B SST - 1 fuse, 9B - 2 fuses per channel, 6B - 2 fuses per channel.
All fuses are on the AC power side only and are NOT in series with the audio circuit path.
James
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James,
Is the Bryston warranty still valid if boutique audio fuses are used that have no safety testing or approval with any of the electrical testing agencies (UL, CSA, TUV, CE, etc.)?
Steve
Hi Steve - yes the warranty is still valid as long as the fuses are not in fact responsible for or cause the failure or contribute more damage to the failure.
james
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Thanks James--now I want to make this tweak. Just curious, is there a history within Bryston of testing amps without the final fused path that is placed in consumer amps?
Hi Waker,
Not officially, but I have run some blind listening tests with a 4B with some of my audiophile friends and some reviewers where one 4B is hard wired and the other is fused.
james
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While not wanting to go crazy with money I bought a pair of Acme Audio fuses at $10 each, that doesn't strike me as too extravagant, meanwhile the fuses in the amp look like they're fairly new, I'll keep them as spares.
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While not wanting to go crazy with money I bought a pair of Acme Audio fuses at $10 each, that doesn't strike me as too extravagant, meanwhile the fuses in the amp look like they're fairly new, I'll keep them as spares.
Please let us know if you hear a difference.
james
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Hi folks,
After further investigation:
SST SQ versions of the (4B has 1 fuse) the (7B's have NO fuses), (14B - 1 fuse), (28B's NO fuses), (3B - 1 fuse), (2B LP - 2 fuses), (2B SST - 1 fuse), (9B - 2 fuses per channel), (6B - 2 fuses per channel).
All fuses are on the AC power side only and are NOT in series with the audio circuit path.
James
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James,I imagine the 14sst-2 also no fuses,correct.
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James,I imagine the 14sst-2 also no fuses,correct.
14B - 1 fuse.
james
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Jeez I reread the post,the 14,she was there right in front of me,must be over 40 :duh:.
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Jeez I reread the post,the 14,she was there right in front of me,must be over 40 :duh:.
No - I cheated - I added it after you asked.
james
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:lol: :o,very good James.
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(7B's have NO fuses),
I am officially announcing the cancellation of my fuse tweak project. :)
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...SST SQ versions of the (4B has 1 fuse)...
All fuses are on the AC power side only and are NOT in series with the audio circuit path.
James
Hmm... This could be interesting. I am willing to order new fuses for my 4B SST2, can you tell me what the values are for them? That way I'll only have to open my amp once. Is it one fuse for the whole amp, or one per channel? And any chance of a picture with the exact location?
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Hmm... This could be interesting. I am willing to order new fuses for my 4B SST2, can you tell me what the values are for them? That way I'll only have to open my amp once. Is it one fuse for the whole amp, or one per channel? And any chance of a picture with the exact location?
It's in the center right at the back of the 4B.
12 amp for 120v.
6.3A for 240v.
6.3 is slow acting and the 12 amp is fast blow.
james
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So it is just one fuse?
(5X20mm) 6.3A, or the (6X32mm) 6.3A?
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=35837)
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No circuit breakers? Just fuses?
Nap. :scratch:
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So it is just one fuse?
(5X20mm) 6.3A, or the (6X32mm) 6.3A?
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=35837)
Yes - one fuse.
james
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So it is just one fuse?
(5X20mm) 6.3A, or the (6X32mm) 6.3A?
Anonamemouse: My fuse is bigger than yours :lol: (12A)
Nap.
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Anonamemouse: My fuse is bigger than yours :lol: (12A)
Nap.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29752)
But with that spaghetti western is inside that 4BSST, IMHO, I don't think a 1" fuse would make much difference competing. :lol:
Hey that 4B, is mine. :icon_frown:
Robert
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Anonamemouse: My fuse is bigger than yours :lol: (12A)
Nap.
Please...We have women among us....... :green: :lol: 8) :thumb:
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Anonamemouse: My fuse is bigger than yours :lol: (12A)
Nap.
Yours may be bigger, but mine lasts longer. In the end thats what counts!
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Yours may be bigger, but mine lasts longer. In the end thats what counts!
:o :o :o
No pun intended, eh :D :D :lol: :lol:
Keith
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:o :o :o
No pun intended, eh :D :D :lol: :lol:
Keith
Hmm? Who?!? Me??? :o
Would I intend pun if there was no pun to intend? 8)
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James, what size is the fuse?
(5X20mm) 6.3A, or (6X32mm) 6.3A?
I can't make it out in the picture or on the tech drawing on the site...
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James, what size is the fuse?
(5X20mm) 6.3A, or (6X32mm) 6.3A?
I can't make it out in the picture or on the tech drawing on the site...
Hi
Please contact Mike Pickett at Bryston on that - I am on my way to CEDIA.
james
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Hmm? Who?!? Me??? :o
Would I intend pun if there was no pun to intend? 8)
:lol: :lol: 8) 8)
Keith
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Hi
Please contact Mike Pickett at Bryston on that - I am on my way to CEDIA.
james
I sent an email last saturday, so far no reply... :(
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It's better to phone mike.
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I am 7 timezones to the east, it would probably be cheaper to just order both.
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I am 7 timezones to the east, it would probably be cheaper to just order both.
Well, if you're getting fuses, which means you'll have to open the amp up, why not do it now and measure what's in there?
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Well, if you're getting fuses, which means you'll have to open the amp up, why not do it now and measure what's in there?
because it will take me about 2 hours to get everything out of the cabinet, open the amp, peek inside, close it up again, put everything back in the cabinet. and this twice, because I am not going to be without music for little over a week.
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because it will take me about 2 hours to get everything out of the cabinet, open the amp, peek inside, close it up again, put everything back in the cabinet. and this twice, because I am not going to be without music for little over a week.
Hi - I am stuck at the Show - email Brian Russell at Bryston please - bwrussell@bryston.com
james
PS - be careful when you open the amp as it is full of Canadian air!
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Hi - I am stuck at the Show - email Brian Russell at Bryston please - bwrussell@bryston.com
james
I know worse places to be "stuck" at... :lol:
PS - be careful when you open the amp as it is full of Canadian air!
Darn... I must find a way to capture that so I can inhale it in small doses. The red tape required for moving to Canada is gruesome...
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Mr. Russell replies a lot quicker... :)
One Furutech 5x20mm 6.3 A (http://www.furutech.com/a2008/product2.asp?prodNo=303) ordered, should be here sometime next week.
I decided to go for the top, and not get stuck halfway. The difference in price is not that horrible, I know people that spend MUCH more on stuff like cablestands and electronliners and such.
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Mr. Russell replies a lot quicker... :)
One Furutech 5x20mm 6.3 A (http://www.furutech.com/a2008/product2.asp?prodNo=303) ordered, should be here sometime next week.
I decided to go for the top, and not get stuck halfway. The difference in price is not that horrible, I know people that spend MUCH more on stuff like cablestands and electronliners and such.
...how much is the fuse?
al.
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...how much is the fuse?
al.
40 euros. Which is about Can$ 47.50.
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5x20mm 6.3 A[/url]
Puny. Must be a female fuse. You should move here and get a black 4BSST2 to see the real thing. The figures are the same, except we use inches instead of mm.
Nap. :lol:
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Puny. Must be a female fuse. You should move here and get a black 4BSST2 to see the real thing. The figures are the same, except we use inches instead of mm.
Nap. :lol:
My 4B SST2 actually is black... But it is cold here. :lol:
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FYI. I found this ad on Audiogon. If you like silver and gold fuses.
http://cgi.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cl.pl?accstwek&1290320229
Pure Silver Wire Filament
SMALL 5x20mm Fuses: Solid Silver end caps that are first Silver plated and then 24k Gold plated.
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Still waiting for them to arrive.
Might be a bit longer...
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Hi,
SST SQ versions of the 4B has 1 fuse the 7B's have NO fuses. 28B's NO fuses, 3B - 1 fuse, 2B LP - 2 fuses, 2B SST - 1 fuse, 9B - 2 fuses per channel, 6B - 2 fuses per channel.
All fuses are on the AC power side only and are NOT in series with the audio circuit path.
James
One word BRILLIANT.
charles
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Hi folks,
After further investigation:
SST SQ versions of the (4B has 1 fuse) the (7B's have NO fuses), (14B - 1 fuse), (28B's NO fuses), (3B - 1 fuse), (2B LP - 2 fuses), (2B SST - 1 fuse), (9B - 2 fuses per channel), (6B - 2 fuses per channel).
All fuses are on the AC power side only and are NOT in series with the audio circuit path.
James
I have heard about folks changing fuse in their amplifiers and actually hear a difference in performance. I have a 4BSST2 and would be keen to explore this further if indeed its true...but it may be marginal since its at the AC power side and not in the audio circuit path??
Would be interesting to see the feedback from Anonamemouse :)
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It took a lot longer than expected, but I got a call from my dealer this afternoon: The fuse has arrived!
Now getting it here and finding the fime to actually install it...
Before changing the fuse I will gather a bunch of people and have them listen to several things, change the fuse, and then listen to the same things to see if changes are audible, and how they are experienced by the listeners (the audience will include a 13 year old girl with very fresh and razorsharp ears, not deafened by in ear mp3 crap). Expect to read more on the other side of the weekend (cos I will be ridiculously busy this week...).
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Don't expect to hear any improvement right away. In fact, you'll most likely be disappointed upon first listening. When I replaced my fuses with some HiFi fuses, the only thing that improved was the elimination of any stridency. Bass and body were AWOL and only improved incrementally over a 4 day period. Everything was softer. That was with the tuner on 24/7. After that, I had a totally different integrated that I no longer want to sell.
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It took a while (work got in the way of doing lots of fun things) but I finally found the time to install the Furutech fuse in my 4B SST2.
The pictures do the talking... :)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=37958)
The actual fuse in the cute little box it came in.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=37959)
My 4B SST2, still dressed, about to unveil its insides...
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=37960)
My poor amp, all nekkid.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=37961)
The old fuse, hidden under a silicone thingie. This was rather annoying to remove, and I could not get it back on.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=37963)
The fuse underneath the silicone. At this time my sweet little princess was making comments connecting the thingie to certain female body parts.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=37964)
The new Furutech fuse installed. Nice and blue and more sturdy looking than the little glass tube that was inthere. This is the way it looks still, as mentioned I could not get the thingie back on.
Evaluation:
I put the fuses in yesterday morning, after sitting down with the entire family (girlfriend, 2 x 13 year old spawn and I) to listen to the first two tracks of Frankie goes to Hollywood's Welcome to the Pleasure Dome.
Why this album? It is very well recorded (if you are lucky enough to have the first pressing ever, that one sounds best by far), we know it pretty well and it has a lot going on soundwise.
This morning we sat down again and listened to the same two tracks. The differences noticed: more sub bass, bore bass overal, and a more detailed sound in mid. It also sounds more defined, as in a better separation between instruments. Vocals also sound even more natural.
In my opinion Bryston should give these fuses a try in their own labs as well, I think it is a fairly cheap upgrade which increases the soundquality. Not by miles, but definitely noticeable.
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Hi
Try using the old fuse with the silicone off, maybe thats the diff?
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Wow, a little fuse does all that, :o
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The changes sound much like those attributed to a power conditioner. Since the fuse is in the power path maybe it is a low cost replacement for a Torus?
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The changes sound much like those attributed to a power conditioner. Since the fuse is in the power path maybe it is a low cost replacement for a Torus?
I definitely would not go that far. The changes with a (for example) Torus (I have a Kemp that does the same but with a better filter than the Torus) are significantly larger than the changes with this Furutech fuse. I would consider this a tweak with pretty good results.
I know someone who spent a few hundred dollars on little piramid like thingies to lift his cables off the ground. I have spent a few hours comparing, but could not hear the difference.
Changing the $0.20 fuse into a $50.00 Furutech one DOES make a difference.
I also got a Furutech fuse for in my TV receiver box. This resulted in a MUCH better picture, skin tones actually look like skin tones now, and it is MUCH nicer to the eye (as in not harsh, sharp edges are no longer irritating, subtitles look crisp and easier to read etc.).
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I'm just wondering if anyone else, other than Anonamemouse, tried changing out the fuse on their Bryston 4B amp, as this is something that I'm considering as a quick tweak.
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I really think that Bryston or any other high end audio company would have tried a few different fuses in their amps
to see if it was worth the 35-75.00 extra cost.
If it made an improvement that they actually could hear then perhaps they would have installed a certain brand.
just like they test all their parts.
They seem to test all their parts quite extensively so why not fuses.
If Bryston found a noticeable difference,I'm sure that they would be installed.
The time it takes I'm sure would be less than when they test bench for faulty parts.
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Well those of us with 7B.s and 28B.s need not fuse with fuses. :thumb:( Pun Indented).
I'm a no fuss type so it fits fine with me.
However I would try it if I had something other than what I have.
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Ok then have not tried in Bryston gear however in the gear that i have used Hi Fi Tuning Fuses the result was consistent. A clearer picture into the music. More information with yes more powerfull bass. Everytime an improvement go figure.
Now for the nutty stuff. The Cable Company is offering these Quantum Dots with the fuses purchased. Warning these just may confuse the heck out of you as to what they do. I still do not believe the outcome even better yet, oh my !! We are NOT dealers of such.
charles
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Hi Anonamemouse, I am about to give a try on changing some if not all the fuses in my system. Btw, you didn't mention anything about the highs after the change...was it any less?
James - Why do the 4BSST2 has a fuse in it when we already have a circuit breaker?? Are there any fuses in the Torus BIT 16 and BDA-1...what would be their ratings?
I am torn between Furutech or Hi-Fi Tuning but surfing I found this in the web an extract of what Steve McCormack has to say about fuse:
As a high-end audio designer, I am always on the lookout for new ways to improve the performance of my electronics. It has been clear to me for a long time that anything done to improve the quality of my power supplies has a direct beneficial effect on the sound of my equipment. What has been surprising (and not a little frustrating) is how important the “little details” have become - the AC power cords, AC inlets, internal wiring, and now the fuses themselves. Like most audiophiles, I was skeptical at first - the truth is that I didn’t "want" fuses to make any difference and become yet another detail to worry about. And yet when “audiophile grade” fuses first appeared, I knew I had to try them - the quality of the AC power path is simply too important to ignore.
So I tried the fuses from HiFi-Tuning and Isoclean, and was impressed by both. Here was a simple tweak that made a larger legitimate sonic improvement than many absurdly-high-priced cables I had tried, and cost a LOT less! Being happy with the HiFi-Tuning fuses, I did not immediately jump on the Furutech fuses when they first appeared, but I kept them in mind. Since I use a number of other Furutech products in my equipment designs and upgrades, I finally gave in and ordered some fuses.
Holy Smoke! To say I was impressed is an understatement! I was very surprised to hear that the Furutech fuses were outperforming the HiFi-Tuning fuses in every respect, and installing them throughout my system brought it up to a new level of performance. The Furutech fuses have quickly become my most highly recommended tweak, and one of my all-time favorites. I urge you to try them in your own system. Check the value and size of the main AC line fuses in your gear and order some Furutechs for at least your amp and preamp. As always, your mileage may vary, but I suspect you will be impressed and pleased with the improvement in clarity, dynamics, and engagement. Enjoy!"
Steve McCormack · Designer · SMcAudio.com · Vista, CA
The differences noticed: more sub bass, bore bass overal, and a more detailed sound in mid. It also sounds more defined, as in a better separation between instruments. Vocals also sound even more natural.
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I'm going to order the Furutech fuse for my 4B-SST2 in the next short while but while I'm thinking of that, I'm wondering if my Bryston BP-6 preamp uses any fuses.
James: does the BP-6 use any fuses and if so, what type, size and power rating? Thanks.
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James - Why do the 4BSST2 has a fuse in it when we already have a circuit breaker??
At James' request, I'm jumping in on why some amps have breakers and fuses, while others have only breakers.
In almost all cases, it's a matter of the number of channels, and thus the number of power transformers. In stereo amps, like the 4B/14B, there is a transformer for each channel, and each channel has to be protected. We do this using a 2-pole breaker, so that if one channel fails, it trips that half of the breaker, turning the entire amp off. The actual switching of power is done using a triac (an electronic switch, really) which is located between the AC inlet and the breaker, and is a single pole device. We are required by law to protect the triac with an overcurrent protection device, so there has to be a fuse before the triac.
In the case of the 7B and 28B, we only have one transformer to protect, so the single pole breaker can be moved between the power inlet and the triac, taking the place of the triac protection fuse.
Now if only someone would come up with an Audiophile triac...
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James: does the BP-6 use any fuses and if so, what type, size and power rating? Thanks.
The BP6 uses a Time Delay, 250mA, 5X20mm fuse, at least in North America. Per the other request above, the BIT power Isolation units use breakers only, no fuses.
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So Mike, would you recommend changing the fuses or it is just more snake oil ??
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The BP6 uses a Time Delay, 250mA, 5X20mm fuse, at least in North America. Per the other request above, the BIT power Isolation units use breakers only, no fuses.
Thanks Mike!
I'd be interested on your take on fuses and whether there has been any experimentation with some of the more highly-praised after-market ones like the Furutech. The statments from McCormack that are quoted are very complementary of the results.
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Thanks Mike!
At James' request, I'm jumping in on why some amps have breakers and fuses, while others have only breakers.
In almost all cases, it's a matter of the number of channels, and thus the number of power transformers. In stereo amps, like the 4B/14B, there is a transformer for each channel, and each channel has to be protected. We do this using a 2-pole breaker, so that if one channel fails, it trips that half of the breaker, turning the entire amp off. The actual switching of power is done using a triac (an electronic switch, really) which is located between the AC inlet and the breaker, and is a single pole device. We are required by law to protect the triac with an overcurrent protection device, so there has to be a fuse before the triac.
In the case of the 7B and 28B, we only have one transformer to protect, so the single pole breaker can be moved between the power inlet and the triac, taking the place of the triac protection fuse.
Now if only someone would come up with an Audiophile triac...
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I also see there is at least one fuse in the MPS-2 power supply - for those who are interested.
I've ordered the same Furutech fuse that Anononomouse described in this thread and installed. I guess I'll be able to hear for myself is there are any improvements. Cheap upgrade, even if it doesn't provide any noticeable benefits in my specific case.
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Do tell more after run-in :D
I also see there is at least one fuse in the MPS-2 power supply - for those who are interested.
I've ordered the same Furutech fuse that Anononomouse described in this thread and installed. I guess I'll be able to hear for myself is there are any improvements. Cheap upgrade, even if it doesn't provide any noticeable benefits in my specific case.
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I've ordered the same Furutech fuse that Anononomouse described in this thread and installed. I guess I'll be able to hear for myself is there are any improvements. Cheap upgrade, even if it doesn't provide any noticeable benefits in my specific case.
Excellent! Try it yourself and draw your own conclusions rather than relying on received wisdom. Please let us know how it works out for you, G. :thumb:
D.D.
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Hi James, since my BIT 16 didn't have any manual with it when it was delivered so I downloaded a copy of RM16 manual from Torus website - http://toruspower.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/Torus-Owners-Manual-Int-Rack-UK-16...pdf (http://toruspower.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/Torus-Owners-Manual-Int-Rack-UK-16...pdf). It seems the BIT 16 only has a 16A Circuit Breaker at the front Panel but no fuse??
Btw, for folks whom like to change the fuse in BDA-1 below are the specs:
5x20mm glass fuse on the CD1-PM circuit board (near the IEC power inlet) of the BDA-1. All fuses are rated 250V:
- For 100 volt models fuse value is F 250mA L
- For 120 volt models fuse value is F 250mA L
- For 230 volt models fuse value is F 125mA L
- For 240 volt models fuse value is F 125mA L
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Hi James, hope I am not bothering you to much :D
But is the BDA-1 fuse below Slow Blow??
I have searched around and it seems only HiFi Tuning has 125mA rating not Furutech. Looks like all my source fuse will have to go Hifi Tuning maybe the Supreme while the amplifier Furutech.
- For 240 volt models fuse value is F 125mA L
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I am sorry, but placing untested fuses, (that is they are 'who knows what' really ratings checked by?? whom??) in critical positions in am amp with a great warranty is foolish way beyond any sensiblilty..
Standard fuses are carefully regulated, and have great quality control.
So when you buy a standard fuse from a known company, they are certain to be correct, and do EXACTLY what you need done to protect a curcuit. And what was caleld for by the designer.
These aftermarket fuses use unique wire, and design with no testing at all. they are 'audiophile' which means what???
Half the time they do not come in the exact right value, and even if they did, who is it saying they work as designed?
I am just sorry. Many do not act with the correct speed, which in many applications, is critical.
I can see sticking an oddball fuse in a speaker fuse. Where being sort of vague has little consequence.
But it power supplies of $5,000 to $20,000 components.
Geez. forget it.
that is my two cents.
If some want to do it anyway, and take the chances. considering the aftermarket audiophile fuses may not be adequate, and thus your warranty is busted. Feel free to be playing Russian Roulette with your equipment.
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FWIW, a quick trip to the Furutech website reveals that they offer two fuse products: one states CE, UL and PSE safety approvals while the other, the "High-End Performance Fuse" makes no such claims.
D.D.
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I'm just wondering if anyone else, other than Anonamemouse, tried changing out the fuse on their Bryston 4B amp, as this is something that I'm considering as a quick tweak.
I put the Acme Audio fuses in a 30 year old 4B, made a small but nice improvement to overall sound, highs a little cleaner.
Money well spent.
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I see a few Q's were where Mike was asked what his thoughts were on fuses.
I'll bet $50.00 he won't reply on whether they make a difference in the way some think.
I believe the response will be ....try them and see what you think.
Never read where this type of fuse does this to our pre's,amps,cdp ect or that they tried different types to see what
if any thing changes.I don't think James has said anything about them either(WHY IS THAT).
Perhaps it's against audio manufacturers policy to say these don't do a thing, since they are all in the same audio type of environment.
Perhaps audiophiles have different hearing than people who have been testing their products for years and years and years.
Perhaps the answer is that all the techs forgot to try out the different little fuses and one fine day an audiophile
discovered this fuse that changed audio forever.
Let the whuppin begin,as I've been there,the whuppin that is :lol:.
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One thing I think I should point out is the fuses in our gear are NEVER in the audio circuit path - if there is a fuse it is on the Power Supply side for safety reasons.
james
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Hi James, can help to clarify??
Hi James, hope I am not bothering you to much :D
But is the BDA-1 fuse below Slow Blow??
I have searched around and it seems only HiFi Tuning has 125mA rating not Furutech. Looks like all my source fuse will have to go Hifi Tuning maybe the Supreme while the amplifier Furutech.
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Hi James, can help to clarify??
The fuse in the BDA-1 is 250 milli-amps (120 V) fast blow. In the 240 Volt version it is 160 ma
james
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Thanks James...so 240 Volt version it is 160 mA fast blow. That's different from the what the online downloaded owners manual says so I hope folks won't put the wrong fuse in.
The fuse in the BDA-1 is 250 milli-amps (120 V) fast blow. In the 240 Volt version it is 160 ma
james
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I've ordered the same Furutech fuse that Anononomouse described in this thread and installed. I guess I'll be able to hear for myself is there are any improvements. Cheap upgrade, even if it doesn't provide any noticeable benefits in my specific case.
Excellent! Try it yourself and draw your own conclusions rather than relying on received wisdom. Please let us know how it works out for you, G. :thumb:
D.D.
VERY much seconded. I have written down my perceptions, I am very interested in how other people feel an aftermarket fuse affects their sound.
I am sorry, but placing untested fuses, (that is they are 'who knows what' really ratings checked by?? whom??) in critical positions in am amp with a great warranty is foolish way beyond any sensiblilty..
"...A standard fuse from a known company..." I would like to challenge you and ask you to name 5 fuse making companies of the top of your head, not through Google.
Apart from that, I really fail to see how you can state that the average CHINESE fuse manufacturer indeed checks all its fuses (one by one). Trust me: this does NOT happen. The average $0.15 fuse has a 20 to 50% margin. The Furutech fuses don't, which is why they usually blow faster.
Standard fuses are carefully regulated, and have great quality control.
So when you buy a standard fuse from a known company, they are certain to be correct, and do EXACTLY what you need done to protect a curcuit. And what was caleld for by the designer.
I STRONGLY disagree there. For reasons see first answer.
These aftermarket fuses use unique wire, and design with no testing at all. they are 'audiophile' which means what???
So your amplifier is put together completely with standard issue "Made in Canada" parts? If this were the case, why didn't you buy a Sony? That sould have the same sound.
The term Audiophile according to Wikipedia: "An audiophile is a person with a strong interest in high-quality sound (usually music) reproduction."
For me it means how I experience my music, the emotion I get from it. The better I can reproduce the recordings made by artists, the more emotion I feel when listening.
Half the time they do not come in the exact right value, and even if they did, who is it saying they work as designed?
The Furutech fuses are SPOT ON when it comes to value. As mentioned before, $0.15 fuses have a MASSIVE margin.
I am just sorry. Many do not act with the correct speed, which in many applications, is critical.
I can see sticking an oddball fuse in a speaker fuse. Where being sort of vague has little consequence.
Weird. You are describing the fuses you have inside your equipment now, but blaming others for actually wanting to upgrade.
But it power supplies of $5,000 to $20,000 components.
Yes. So does the crappy plastic outlet in your wall, fed by unstable power.
Geez. forget it.
that is my two cents.
Only 13 more for a new fuse for you.
If some want to do it anyway, and take the chances. considering the aftermarket audiophile fuses may not be adequate, and thus your warranty is busted. Feel free to be playing Russian Roulette with your equipment.
Uhm... No.
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Hi Anonamemouse, is the Furutech fuse recommended by Mike P. a 6.3A Slow Blow fuse?
Mr. Russell replies a lot quicker... :)
One Furutech 5x20mm 6.3 A (http://www.furutech.com/a2008/product2.asp?prodNo=303) ordered, should be here sometime next week.
I decided to go for the top, and not get stuck halfway. The difference in price is not that horrible, I know people that spend MUCH more on stuff like cablestands and electronliners and such.
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Hi. I know this topic asks about Hifi tuning fuses in Bryston amps. Glad to see someone comment on Furutech fuses. SoundGame reminded me about a review I sent the Furutech agent after I had fitted Furutech fuses to some of my components. So I will add my bit on fuses. I wrote that review as I was asked what my findings were on the upgraded fuses. After writing this review I bought more Bryston gear (the BDP-1 and a BDA-1) where I changed the fuses in those components too after doing some A-B-A comparisons. As finance allowed I did change EVERY fuse in the system. The upgraded fuses did make a positive difference in my listening environment. Here is the review I wrote:
"Hello Jeandre!
Here it is! "My" Feature Article: Furutech Fuse Review.
My listening room is 5.3m (L) x 3.30m (w) x 2.80m (H). The room is carpeted and furnished with a 3 seater couch that sits centred 1.10m from the rear wall, and there is a heavy wooden coffee table a short distance in front of the couch. The entire width of the rear wall is a cd rack that is 2.0m high. The wall behind the hi-fi cabinet is curtained, and the side walls have large picture frames mounted on them. The Paradigm S8 floorstanding front speakers are positioned either side and in front of the hi-fi cabinet and are positioned 1,40m off the front wall, and 0.5m off the side wall. Speaker toe in is aimed at my shoulders when seated in the centre seat of the couch.These speakers,with upgraded internal wiring, are bi-amped via an Anthem P5 power amplifier. The source of the music is via a Wadia transport and Wadia DAC, and this signal is sent to a Mark Levinson 38S pre-amp. All interconnects and speaker wire are of silver construction. Clean, regulated electrical power is supplied from a dedicated A/C circuit with upgraded 4mm 3 core shielded wiring to an active voltage regulator which feeds the power condition, which then distributes power to the various stereo and A/V components.
I initially entered the hi-fi scene as a cable/wire sceptic. Wire is wire. All wire is the same. Having an open mind I spent much time reading and in discussion before I got some hands on comparisions with various speaker wires and interconnects. As the quality of the wiring used improved I learned that good wiring does less damage in the signal path, and this was good, as the music became more enjoyable and "believeable". Alas the story of diminishing returns is very real, so I only upgraded to a realistic value for money price point. It does not take much to realise that a cable upgrade was often cheaper than a component upgrade, and this better quality cable can reveal more of your sound systems potential, reducing the need for a better component. Over time my system grew without breaking the bank or having to trade components.
As my experiences with various cables developed I got to thinking about fuses. Whether you have a megabuck sound sytem or one that is just enough to break the silence around you, all these sound systems have one thing in common. They all have cheap nasty fuses. I appreciate that every component must be built within a certain price point, but that little glass fuse that costs between fifty cents and two rand could be a component choker. After much research, the popular opinion is that fuses do not and cannot make a difference. Most of the writers of these negative comments had never tested fuses themselves. A small handful of positive reviews were found - by people who had tried upgraded fuses themselves. I approached various high end hi-fi dealers in town in a quest to buy a few. Some of the hi-fi dealers who have become friends over time teased me that I must be bored - I should just buy a better replacement component - or I get too carried away with ecking out every ounce of preformance my system has to offer. "Why not!" I would joke, "Surely a system is the sum of all its parts. Why not make small affordable upgrades that can release any hidden potential within the hi-fi components!?" I figured the worst case scenario would be that I would have a handful of brand new but pricey fuses. I contacted Jeandre Botha of AV Cables, the man responsible for distributing Furutech goodies across the land, and shortly thereafter I recieved five shiny silver and blue Furutech rodium plated fuses. Knowing that my fellow hi-fi enthusiast friends were waiting to throw pie in my face I gave the fuses a quiet audition before allowing them to visit for some A-B-A comparisions. Wow. Yes just that one word. Wow. That little fuse did THAT to my beloved system. (Actually the transport takes 3 fuses). Not to be fooled, as some people listen to the price tag or the dent in their wallets, I had a friend, Shani Kleyn, visit and she rapidly swapped fuses while I sat blindfolded in my seat. Every time the Furutech fuses were fitted into the cd transport I immediately heard a positive difference. After repeated A-B-A comparisons Shani stated that the music was smoother, clearer and easier to listen to with the Furutech fuses compared to the stock fuses. I had to agree as she was quite right. I then replaced the 2 fuses in the pre-amp, and again an improvement was heard. We were unable to decide which of the two components benefitted most from the fuse upgrade.
Knowing that my purchase was no financial loss I smugly (as I knew my face would be pie free) invited my hi-fi friends over. "Bring your favourite music along" I instructed. They arrived. The cd transport housing and internal shields were removed to allow speedy access to the fuses. The exposed transport was hidden behind a make shift cloth shroud so that the internals could not be seen by straying eyes. The music sytem was switched on whilst fresh coffee beans were ground and brewed. More jokes were made about the fuses, but these listening sessions have always been fun so I wasn't preturbed. Our systems had all grown and evolved through these test sessions. None of the listeners here are fans of loud music. The 38S volume range is from 0 to 90. 40 was selected as being the accepted listening volume. The listening process started. Jack Johnson, Michael Buble, Diana Krall, Sting, Four Play, Keb Mo, Katie Melua, Norah Jones and Sara K all took turns to audition themselves. The A-B-A process was regularly repeated. The original system (cd transport with stock fuses) had a really enjoyable foot tapping character. When the 3 Furutech fuses were inserted the change in sound quality was immediate. Jack Johnson sounded more easy going. Michael Buble does a duet with Nelly Furtado (Quando Quando) - she lost that nasal tone she previously had. In the song "Home" by Michael Buble, the emotion of the song had a greater presence. Diana Krall and Norah Jones' piano must have had a polish as the sound of this instrument was more alive. Keb Mo's tapping of his leather shoes in the studio floor was sharper, the cello played by One Republic in "The Secret" was more haunting and emotional. The typical tobacco smoking burbin drinking roughness in Sara K's voice was more distinctive. All listeners agreed - music coming from the silent background was clearer, more revealing, unveiled and certainly more present with the Furutech fuses. It was only after the testing that the listeners got to see any of the fuses. Every time the Furutech fuses were clippped in place the audience reported an improvement. In an attempt to dupe the listeners I unclipped the stock fuses, fumbled behind the shroud and clipped the stock fuses back in place. The agreed response - "No Change". No hiding that the Furutech fuses are superior. Both Garth Roberts and Shani Kleyn commented that as good as the stock system is, with the Furutech fuses the system lost its graininess and was less fatiguing. Eddie Kotze in his immitation lisp way of speaking commented that the music was more "fresh and crithpy". Sean Black and Quintin Benson commented the sound was clearer and more open.
So in months to come every fuse in the system including the TV and the A/V system will be replaced. After that... I am going to explore the world of upgraded power plugs. As I sit here typing this I am grinning from ear to ear. Unlike "The king and his new cloths story" I am satisfied that the cost of the fuses was money well spent. The Furutech fuses are certainly an affordable and worthwhile investment."
I am happy with the Furutechs. Since that article I was told to try HiFi Tuning fuses for comparitive purposes. Cant afford to buy fuses just for the sake of "comparisons". The Furutechs have been fitted toward the end of last year. Haven't had a single issue yet.
I always say: Believe your ears. Not your scientific calculators. Not your wallets.
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What I do when I change fuses is wrap the fuse in a non electrical conduction tape, then securely stick the fuse to the inside of the hifi component cover. That way should the fuse blow you have the original fuse available for rapid replacement until you can order an replacement upgraded fuse.
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What I do when I change fuses is wrap the fuse in a non electrical conduction tape, then securely stick the fuse to the inside of the hifi component cover. That way should the fuse blow you have the original fuse available for rapid replacement until you can order an replacement upgraded fuse.
With that kinds of pricing I think it would be cheaper if you blow up a resister,cap or a transistor.
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When even the device manufacturer says "we don't put audio fuses in the audio path" - that is a pretty big hint towards the effect they have.
I can think of better things to blow money on than an overpriced fuse.
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Hi James, I cannot find 160mA but can I use a 125mA? Will it blow immediately??
The fuse in the BDA-1 is 250 milli-amps (120 V) fast blow. In the 240 Volt version it is 160 ma
james
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Hi James, I cannot find 160mA but can I use a 125mA? Will it blow immediately??
Hi
Please email Mike Pickett at bryston - way to technical for me :duh:
mpickett@bryston.com
james
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Hi James, I cannot find 160mA but can I use a 125mA? Will it blow immediately??
It most likely will work for about 0.002 seconds. Furutech fuses react EXTREMELY fast, 250 mA would be the one to use here.
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Ok this is my .25c on it. I am not for it or against it. After reading many other threads including this one i still am worried about the fuses failing but I digress. My real point is, you have to ask yourself why am I buying this. Changing fuses before the power supply sounds like an individual is trying to improve the response characteristic of the amp. I personally don't think this is necessary with Bryston amps using a Bit or newer 14sst2 and up models. Perhaps if you were using an older 4B into the wall it might help.
There are many other ways also to get more response from a component including outlets and cabling.
Too much of one thing can be bad I have found. Your system maybe as responsive as it can be already. Adding more responsive power to a system can cause treble glare and faster clipping in the higher regions. Changing out a fuse just may end up having to pull back in another area like cabling or volume to compensate.
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I didn't think we accepted argent Canadian. :green:
Doc
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Hi James, I cannot find 160mA but can I use a 125mA? Will it blow immediately??
It most likely will work for about 0.002 seconds. Furutech fuses react EXTREMELY fast, 250 mA would be the one to use here.
In fact, replace every fuse you have with one that is 50% over the specified current rating. What could possibly go wrong with that rock-solid advice?
Steve
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In fact, replace every fuse you have with one that is 50% over the specified current rating. What could possibly go wrong with that rock-solid advice?
Steve
There are no values inbetween.
Considering the fact that the average fuse has a margin of up to 50% and the Furutech fuses are spot on I do not see the problem.
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There are no values inbetween.
Considering the fact that the average fuse has a margin of up to 50% and the Furutech fuses are spot on I do not see the problem.
It would actually be interesting to know what allowances are actually engineered into Bryston components. In other words, assuming that the average fuse has a variance on average of 50%, are the specified fuse values in Bryston components reflective of this - so even though they are spec'd for a specific fuse, the design and engineering allows for a 50% margin of error on the fuse.
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Ok this is my .25c on it. I am not for it or against it. After reading many other threads including this one i still am worried about the fuses failing but I digress. My real point is, you have to ask yourself why am I buying this. Changing fuses before the power supply sounds like an individual is trying to improve the response characteristic of the amp. I personally don't think this is necessary with Bryston amps using a Bit or newer 14sst2 and up models. Perhaps if you were using an older 4B into the wall it might help.
There are many other ways also to get more response from a component including outlets and cabling.
Too much of one thing can be bad I have found. Your system maybe as responsive as it can be already. Adding more responsive power to a system can cause treble glare and faster clipping in the higher regions. Changing out a fuse just may end up having to pull back in another area like cabling or volume to compensate.
Well only one way to find out is to try them. We found that adding fuses to the other components just increased the affect. Meaning more clarity without affecting the tonality.
However I agree 100% with your opinion that too much of a good thing may be well, too much. The added clarity might expose another nasty not noticed before. So with that in mind an all out assalt may not be warranted until experimentation is done. The only issue is buying them without the availability of return. I wonder if the Cable Company has them in their lending library??
charles
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An interesting perspective.
I will let you know what my findings are. :)
Ok this is my .25c on it. I am not for it or against it. After reading many other threads including this one i still am worried about the fuses failing but I digress. My real point is, you have to ask yourself why am I buying this. Changing fuses before the power supply sounds like an individual is trying to improve the response characteristic of the amp. I personally don't think this is necessary with Bryston amps using a Bit or newer 14sst2 and up models. Perhaps if you were using an older 4B into the wall it might help.
There are many other ways also to get more response from a component including outlets and cabling.
Too much of one thing can be bad I have found. Your system maybe as responsive as it can be already. Adding more responsive power to a system can cause treble glare and faster clipping in the higher regions. Changing out a fuse just may end up having to pull back in another area like cabling or volume to compensate.
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Well only one way to find out is to try them. We found that adding fuses to the other components just increased the affect. Meaning more clarity without affecting the tonality.
However I agree 100% with your opinion that too much of a good thing may be well, too much. The added clarity might expose another nasty not noticed before. So with that in mind an all out assalt may not be warranted until experimentation is done. The only issue is buying them without the availability of return. I wonder if the Cable Company has them in their lending library??
Also known as the Placebo effect.
People should actually understand how the electronics in these devices work and principles behind transistor design, in particular for use in amplification, before opening up amplifiers and making changes.
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Well only one way to find out is to try them. We found that adding fuses to the other components just increased the affect. Meaning more clarity without affecting the tonality.
However I agree 100% with your opinion that too much of a good thing may be well, too much. The added clarity might expose another nasty not noticed before. So with that in mind an all out assalt may not be warranted until experimentation is done. The only issue is buying them without the availability of return. I wonder if the Cable Company has them in their lending library??
charles
definitely worth a shot :thumb:
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Also known as the Placebo effect.
People should actually understand how the electronics in these devices work and principles behind transistor design, in particular for use in amplification, before opening up amplifiers and making changes.
Placebo :scratch:...that is stimulated and short-lived? :lol:
I alway keep an open mind to tweaks as long as its sensible and I can hear a positive gain. In my journey I have tried isolation platforms, footers, cables, connector caps, connectors, damping weights, racks, etc. and ALL changes sound quality. Some have very audible gains while others subtle but when you put them all together the overall performance is very satisfying provided you are tweaking towards your desired sound.
Yes, your desired sound as no reproduced music is accurate since its flawed from the beginning but it can sound as close to the actual but its never real. Also what sounds right to one may not to another - whatever rocks your boat and thats all that matters.
Its all in the audition and its all in the sound one hear - science a tool it is.
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I had this on my to-do-list for a long time and after several other tweaks I did recently which are all good and had positive outcome - I have come down to this. :D
My 6.3Amp HIFi-Tuning Supreme Small (20mm/.75") Slow Blow took a while to reach me but I wasn't really in a hurry either. I did tried to take some pictures to illustrate better but the fuse is so small and its a fairly straight forward replacement. There is a rubber cap over the fuse and I recommend to use a spudger which took me only 5 secs -http://www.ebay.com/itm/iPhone-2G-3G-3GS-4-4S-5-iPod-iPad-Plastic-Nylon-Spudger-Pry-Open-Tool-5-Green-/161217542383?pt=Other_Tablet_eReader_Accessories&hash=item25895078ef (http://www.ebay.com/itm/iPhone-2G-3G-3GS-4-4S-5-iPod-iPad-Plastic-Nylon-Spudger-Pry-Open-Tool-5-Green-/161217542383?pt=Other_Tablet_eReader_Accessories&hash=item25895078ef). After popping in the fuse I flip the rubber cap inside out and just flip it over the fuse mount and bingo you are a done - as good as new. Plug it in and its good as gold.
So how it sound? This is where its hard to quantify in words and I want to give you only specifics not flowery words so here it goes:
1) I didn't hear any negative on this minor tweak
2) If you will its less glare or forward
3) Refined and less sibilance
4) A richer mid tone yet retains transparency
5) A firmer grip on lower registers
The above is an immediate observation in 30 mins and I doubt you will need any run in for a piece of wire as thin as a fuse but I may be wrong. I do agree for a fuse this is not a cheap try but in comparison to some other items I have installed in my system this is relatively reasonable and this is only my own opinion.
If you are thinking about this - why not ;)
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just found this and fancy giving it a go
i've a 4BSST
what fuse type and rating should i get?
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I use a 5A slow-blow fuse in my 4B-SST. This if for 230v version in the UK, not sure if also applies to 110v.
The ones I went for are AMR Gold fuses. I can definitely hear a difference compared to the stock fuse. Not huge, but there and the sound feels less harsh and more rounded. I had wanted a 6.3A slow-blow but AMR did not have this, so went down a bit to keep safe.
http://www.amr-audio.co.uk/html/goldfuse_individual.html
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thanks
i'm in the UK too
i lifted the lid and the fuse is US sized 6.3mm by 32mm not the 5mm by 20mm i was expecting?
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The fuse holder on my amp permitted both sizes - either 5x20mm or 6.3x32mm. Cannot recall which one I ended up with.
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i'll have a closer look
thanks
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Sorted!
You're right, takes either
Had a 5mmx20mm AMR 6.3A to hand
Well impressed, will have proper listen tomorrow
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Seems audiophiles are doing to many hits of acid here ,blue cheer,window pane ect ENJOY :thumb:.
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Hey Folks, sorry I have been out of action lately!~ :lol:
huwm, I guess you got all the answers you need. PM me if you need more details...
After earlier post I changed out 6 more fuses in all my electronics with Hifi-Tuning Supreme. The net gain is similar to my earlier post and adds up to one word - Refinement. :)
One word of caution though. I don't recommend Hifi Tuning Supreme if its a Full Tube setup. In fact for Tube electronics I find the Furutech Rhodium fuses does a better job in balance. Of cos its a bit of preference here too.
Finally, I highly recommend folks with Bryston amps to consider the following for the amps to perform its best:
1) Isolation Platform - e.g. SRA
2) Fast Power Cord - e.g. Audience E or SE
3) Quality Fuse - e.g. Hifi Supreme
4) Power Isolation - e.g. BIT or Torus
All of the above provides a cumulative gain in the amplifier performance versus many other amplifiers I have tried and I can attest to it especially in my case the Bryston 4BSST2 in UK specs.
Enjoy your music ~ :thumb:
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Hey Folks, sorry I have been out of action lately!~ :lol:
huwm, I guess you got all the answers you need. PM me if you need more details...
After earlier post I changed out 6 more fuses in all my electronics with Hifi-Tuning Supreme. The net gain is similar to my earlier post and adds up to one word - Refinement. :)
One word of caution though. I don't recommend Hifi Tuning Supreme if its a Full Tube setup. In fact for Tube electronics I find the Furutech Rhodium fuses does a better job in balance. Of cos its a bit of preference here too.
Finally, I highly recommend folks with Bryston amps to consider the following for the amps to perform its best:
1) Isolation Platform - e.g. SRA
2) Fast Power Cord - e.g. Audience E or SE
3) Quality Fuse - e.g. Hifi Supreme
4) Power Isolation - e.g. BIT or Torus
All of the above provides a cumulative gain in the amplifier performance versus many other amplifiers I have tried and I can attest to it especially in my case the Bryston 4BSST2 in UK specs.
Enjoy your music ~ :thumb:
You put the fuse in the soft Start? The 4B uses a rocker. You heard a difference, I am into fuses but I thought the rocker would squash any benefit? Guess not.
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Sorted!
You're right, takes either
Had a 5mmx20mm AMR 6.3A to hand
Well impressed, will have proper listen tomorrow
Hi, can you share your finding? Thanks.
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The most important specs of fuses are its resistance
and blow current,the resistance effects signal current
while blow current effects safety...
High quality fuses perform better and have
better stereo imaging...
And as JohnR says "live and let live"... :green:
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Anyone can advise what type of tool needed to remove the square screw on top of the 4bsst cover? Thanks
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Hi, after that I changed the fuse in my Magnepan with very good results...
This weekend I did in my 14b SST2 (Hifi tunning) and my BP26 (SR20).
Very please whit my sound now...more relaxe, more feeling, more live!
Why I did not changed before for $50?!? :o
In my system it was magic... :P
Steve