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From the research I've done, I think I'm going to go with B-I-N Shellac-Based Primer fed through an HVLP gun. Looks like people have good results with it on MDF. Comes in an aerosol spray as well:https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-B-I-N-13-oz-White-Shellac-Based-Interior-Spot-Exterior-Primer-and-Sealer-Spray-01008/100398390
Looks like good stuff. I guess I'm just being lazy because if I use black primer I don't have to use as many top coats to cover it up (in theory). Besides, most of these inner surfaces will be covered with no-res, so I wasn't planning on a show-quality finish. I'll save that for the outer cabinets. I just ordered the walnut veneer for them this morning.
Understood! Unfortunately it looks like they don't make it in a black version... which kinda sucks, because I'm most likely going to finish my cabinets in a semi gloss black lol.Awesome veneer choice!... I was contemplating veneer for a bit, but I'm still just thinking a full paint job on them. I have little experience with finish painting, but I have a steady hand, and I'll certainly be practicing beforehand! Most likely make the sub cabs first... Definitely less worried about replacing those panels from a crappy paint job than the Otica's
You can add a universal dye like TransTints https://www.woodcraft.com/products/transtint-dyes-black# to shellac to make it any color you want.
...Use two to three coats of the Speedball to dye and seal the MDF then use the tinted shellac to get depth and shine. The tinted shellac works best when used as a 1 pound cut or less and applied rubbed on like French polish. If the shellac product you buy is a 2 pound cut, dilute it with denatured alcohol in a 1:1 ratio.
I supposed I should break out from the Home Theater thread to document my experience building these Servo Sub 4 kits. First, these are A LOT heavier than you might think. The cabinets alone without the sides and top are probably close to 30-40 pounds. I can hardly imagine building triples without having a helper.Things I've learned so far (or painfully recalled after years of being dormant):Don't try to sand before the primer is fully curedDon't expect the paint to cure the same way when it's over 100 degrees outside with the heat index (something I used to know, but I haven't painted anything in probably a decade, so this was a painful reminder)The drivers have two sides, one with gold connectors marked "Driver Coil" and one marked "Servo Coil" - I never spun them around to notice two different connections and thought I had two Servo-only Drivers in one kit Next step now that the bases are attached is to sand flush the outer surfaces of the inner cabinet with a portable belt sander. Then I'll mask off the mating surfaces for the side and top panels and finish priming the base and inner cabinet. I'm planning to pick up some walnut veneer for the outer panels, which will get done through a buddy of mine before they are attached. Meantime, here's the progress as of this morning:
They look great. I assume they are Danny's CNC kit?I'd be interested in knowing how well they sound and integrate with the X-Voce / X-Statik units. I've just place the order for my X-Voce/X-Statik kits and am aiming for a similar set-up .... 'eventually'.Be glad you are in the middle of summer ... its cold and mostly wet down here, at this time of the year.D
Wow!Gorgeous work…But….Aren’t the drivers supposed to be facing opposite directions? Not, both same direction.The picture on the product page has them that way… & I thought that was part of the open baffle design…But, never built one… never seen one & certainly never heard one.
