Help Please! How do I Improve the aesthetics of my Dual Servo Subs?

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morganc

Hi Guys,
    I have two dual Servos ( both pointing forward) with the Duratek coating on them in black and am moving them into my main rig to complement my Spatial X-3's which are in a Matte White finish.  The subs are currently looking very DIY....they are from the standard flatpack from Jay.

 Goal of this project is to :
1.  change the finish to white or perhaps a different color but not the Duratek black as that has very low WAF. 
2.  Improve the aesthetics of the subs as much as possible.
3.  Also I need to make grills for them as well. 

Question:
1.What is the best method to get my speakers matte white? 
--Sand and repaint?
--sand and wrap with a matte white wrap?
----how easy is it to sand the Duratek?

2.  For the Flatpack, mine has an overhang on the top and bottom. Can I cut these off to make it a clean and slick look? 

3.  What about the grills?

Or other option:
--Order a new flatpack or have two cabinets made locally that are just nicer looking and either with a wood grain I like or can easily modify / paint / wrap.

I will get some photos of what I have soon. If anyone in AZ wants to help, hit me up:-)

TIA




Early B.

Yo dude -- this is a great question!  I have the same issue -- servo subs with Duratex that looks too DIYish. I've been wanting to improve them for years and get rid of the overhang. I considered ordering new flat packs and starting over. Yeah, it's a more costly option, for sure, but it might be easier than trimming, sanding, and repainting. I also considered getting a local cabinet maker to build them for me using real wood side and top panels. A third option is taking the cabinets to a local pro to refinish them.

glynnw

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From my experience, wrapping is the most predictable finish.  I had my Spatial X5s wrapped in matte black and love it.  BTW, my dual OB subs are painted with duratex and go great with my all black gear.  No WAF to consider in my case.

wgraft5

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From my short experince with DuraTex, Yes you can sand it.
You can use spray paint over the DuraTex.
In some of Danny's vids you can see where they painted over the DuraTex.
When I assembled my NX Studios, I made some mistakes. So I am also thinking about getting a new flat pack for them. Mabe next year.
Putting 3/4 roundovers everywhere helps make it look less DIY.
Anyway lots of good ideas so far.
Good luck.

Wayne in Oregon


Peter J

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  • Hmmmm
Duratex is water based acrylic, so it will be a little goober-y to sand. Something like acrylic wall paint, if you've ever done that. I'd be inclined to sand flat and spray with matte white, but you'll be limited to water base products. Maybe wrap, but you need a really good base to put it on...everything telegraphs through. You might do a search for Ridgid Thermo Foil (RTF) with PSA adhesive on the back. It's a thicker, more ridgid product that's more like veneer, but not commonly available in the consumer world when I last looked. I've wanted to do a video on it, but sourcing was problematic and showing how to do something that's not readily available seems kinda pointless.

morganc

Yo dude -- this is a great question!  I have the same issue -- servo subs with Duratex that looks too DIYish. I've been wanting to improve them for years and get rid of the overhang. I considered ordering new flat packs and starting over. Yeah, it's a more costly option, for sure, but it might be easier than trimming, sanding, and repainting. I also considered getting a local cabinet maker to build them for me using real wood side and top panels. A third option is taking the cabinets to a local pro to refinish them.

Glad I'm not the only one !  I'll search for a local cabinet pro.  That seems like a relatively easy solution. 

morganc

Duratex is water based acrylic, so it will be a little goober-y to sand. Something like acrylic wall paint, if you've ever done that. I'd be inclined to sand flat and spray with matte white, but you'll be limited to water base products. Maybe wrap, but you need a really good base to put it on...everything telegraphs through. You might do a search for Ridgid Thermo Foil (RTF) with PSA adhesive on the back. It's a thicker, more ridgid product that's more like veneer, but not commonly available in the consumer world when I last looked. I've wanted to do a video on it, but sourcing was problematic and showing how to do something that's not readily available seems kinda pointless.

Thanks Peter. Yes the texture was my concern as well with the wrap....what type of water based paint might you suggest?  Would I need to simply sand and then paint over with likely two coats? 

morganc

From my short experince with DuraTex, Yes you can sand it.
You can use spray paint over the DuraTex.
In some of Danny's vids you can see where they painted over the DuraTex.
When I assembled my NX Studios, I made some mistakes. So I am also thinking about getting a new flat pack for them. Mabe next year.
Putting 3/4 roundovers everywhere helps make it look less DIY.
Anyway lots of good ideas so far.
Good luck.

Wayne in Oregon

Thanks Wayne. 

JCarney

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Peter is correct about the acrylic gumming up the sandpaper. Go to a real paint store and look for the green sandpaper. It takes longer to gum up with the acrylic, and can be mostly cleaned off the sandpaper after it cools for a minute. Aluminum oxide is the material used for the grit. I used it for almost all of my sanding when I ran my painting business. It also comes with backing for hook and loop random orbital sanders if you have one.

Best of Luck,
JCarney

NXSTUDIO-DRUMMER

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« Last Edit: 22 Jul 2023, 12:25 am by NXSTUDIO-DRUMMER »

S Clark

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Has anyone tried a heat gun on Dura-Tex to see if they can get a release?

Peter J

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Has anyone tried a heat gun on Dura-Tex to see if they can get a release?
I think that would be a real PIA. It's not going to "release" like shelf paper or similar. What you'd get is a soft, goopy, hot mess. Maybe useful if you're stripping the cabinet but otherwise, I'd recommend you steer clear of heat on acrylic.

Peter J

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  • Hmmmm
Thanks Peter. Yes the texture was my concern as well with the wrap....what type of water based paint might you suggest?  Would I need to simply sand and then paint over with likely two coats?

I like Benjamin Moore Advance but on a recent trip to get some I couldn't. Benji Moore recommended INSL-X Cabinet Coat, which I'd never heard of, but it's a Urethane Acrylic, and I'd use it again. If you rolled it with a weenie roller over sanded cabinets, you'd get...well, roller texture, but it levels out like Advance. Which might be fine. Not sure about matte sheen, but you could get lowest sheen they offer.

corndog71

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Duratex also comes in white.

I.Greyhound Fan

If you decide to sand and paint, consider using milk paint.  It is water based, is made for painting wood, like wood cabinets.  It brushes on very nice. I have used it before and it is forgiving and leaves a nice finish.  They sell it at Rockler Hardware.  There is also chalk paint which is similar but thicker. 

The link below says that Milk paint is chippy of can have a distressed look.  In my experience with it, it left a very smooth almost acrylic finish.

https://www.housebeautiful.com/home-remodeling/diy-projects/a26961667/what-is-milk-paint/

https://repaintnow.com/milk-paint/



Early B.

The more I think about it -- since you probably won't part with your subs anytime soon, don't compromise. If you want to improve upon the DIY look, then don't DIY them!!! Get them done by a local cabinet maker in the way you really want. I'm gonna take my own advice and plan mine as a 2024 project.

KTS

I like Benjamin Moore Advance but on a recent trip to get some I couldn't. Benji Moore recommended INSL-X Cabinet Coat, which I'd never heard of, but it's a Urethane Acrylic, and I'd use it again. If you rolled it with a weenie roller over sanded cabinets, you'd get...well, roller texture, but it levels out like Advance. Which might be fine. Not sure about matte sheen, but you could get lowest sheen they offer.


I agree with Peter on Ben Moore Advance, I used it for the baffles on my OB subs and it worked well. If you sand them flat and use Stix primer then sand to 220 it should give a nice finish. Also Clark And Kensington makes a latex encapsulated oil that has a very hard finish once it cures, you can get from Ace Hardware as well I believe it is called Cabinet and Trim. The Stix primer is a bit of a high build bonding primer (a fantastic primer and powders up very well when sanding). It goes with out saying on the finish paint several very light coats will give a professional finish. If you put too much on per coat it will run or sag.

Good luck!

Kelly

HAL

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I had mine painted at an autobody shop in the area with low VOC automotive paint.  It is a medium gloss Hot Rod Black color.  With the drivers facing forward it is all black.

TRADERXFAN

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meh... nevermind...
« Last Edit: 21 Jul 2023, 06:22 pm by TRADERXFAN »

alaska_grown

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 You can order custom color duratex in 1-gal or 5-gal buckets from acrytech.

Started a thread here wondering what to do with the 2 dual subs as I also do not like the flat pack outer design. Thought about using butcher block or going to a local cabinet maker. Ended up going the cheapest solution as I had already purchased and assembled 1 flat pack. I purchased the second flat pack. Next step i'm going to cut down the top and bottom panels so they are flush with the sides and will do a roundover front to back on the four corners. Current plan from there are to duratex the inside of the cabinet (since one is already done this way) and to veneer or wrap the outside. Last part i'm wondering about is if I am going to veneer the edges of the outer panels or go another route.

I am very interested in assembling fabric covers for the openings. Kids running around and fingers, toes, feet, heads, etc going into the cabinets can be aggravating